Another broken CV in 80 - what to do?

Post by **stinger** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 8:43 pm

I have broken another CV in the 80. This is about the 3rd or 4th I have broken. I have an Airlocker in the front and with it being a poverty pack Free Wheeling Hubs. With a Turbo 1HZ motor on one end and 35s ET2 on beadlocks on the other end, this is not surprising.

So far I have just bought $70 CV from Driveline services. My question is, do I just continue to replace the CVs with cheap one and treat it as a sacrafical part (as opposed to axles and diffs) or could I up the anti with some stronger one and hope the next part to break is the Free Wheeling Hubs rather than diffs and axles???

If I upgrade what should I upgrade too?

Thanks for the advice in advance
Stinger

Post by **hypo** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 8:48 pm

www.longfieldsuperaxles.com

Post by **Sic Lux** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:26 pm

hypozook wrote:www.longfieldsuperaxles.com

Enough said

Post by **rezpkt** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:28 pm

hypozook wrote:www.longfieldsuperaxles.com

Time to spend some coin.
Longfield FJ80 super set with hub gears.

Post by **MissDrew** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:49 pm

Yep, wouldn`t even bother wasting your money on anything else. When I break our first CV in our 80 It`ll only get replaced with longs.

Post by **dow50r** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 9:03 am

f you can get a toyota c/v it will last ages, they usually snap in the cage. The chinese ones snap on the axle part quite easily, check the grain of the exposed metal....its cheese

Post by **crankycruiser** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:39 pm

I couldnt count how many cv's i have killed in my 80,

I wish i had spent the money i had wasted on cv's on my new longs....

I have given these things a absolute kaining and they are still going strong.!!

Go LONG's!

get em from locktup4x4, they are very helpful

Post by **chpd80** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 6:43 pm

Longs are the best but if you cant afford them genuine toyotas are far stronger than cheapees.

Post by **g35me** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 5:41 pm

Go longfields. Unbreakable.

Post by **MUD000** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 5:56 pm

Longs are the best but if you cant afford them genuine toyotas are far stronger than cheapees.

Cheaper to go longs than genuine
$470 each gen no axels
$350 each drive flange gen
Longs are cheaper & you get axels as well
Cheers Dan

Post by **sloshy** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 9:57 pm

Guts wrote:Yep, wouldn`t even bother wasting your money on anything else. When I break our first CV in our 80 It`ll only get replaced with longs.

You don't even drive the hilux hard let alone the 80

Post by **MissDrew** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 7:46 am

sloshy wrote:
Guts wrote:Yep, wouldn`t even bother wasting your money on anything else. When I break our first CV in our 80 It`ll only get replaced with longs.
You don't even drive the hilux hard let alone the 80

Thats why I`m waiting for 1 to break before replacing them. This way it might be 10 years before I have to buy them

Oh and thats why I can afford a boat

Post by **stinger** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 9:49 am

Where is the best place to by Longfields???

Post by **MissDrew** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:32 am

Either phone long direct and just order them over the phone with your credit card.
OR
Locktup sell them at very good prices

Post by **sloshy** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:19 pm

Guts wrote: Oh and thats why I can afford a boat

What boat??

Post by **lukes4x4** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 9:43 pm

All i can say is call LOCKTUP and get the LONGFIELDS on order. You will have them in 10 days at your door.

Post by **stinger** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 6:44 pm

Having trouble justifying $500 for one CV or $1400 for full set of CV and axles....

At $75 for a normal CV I would have to go though 5-6 CVs at the current usage rate of 1 a year that is 5 years of CVs.

I have also been told about another strengthened CV in Brissy for $550 a pair, not certain what they do to strengthen them (sent a PM but no response). These sound a little more reasonable.

I also service a company that harden rock drilling components by heating and cooling, wondering if I gave them a set of CVs would that work?

Post by **craz3d** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:57 pm

Except the longfields have a lifetime warranty against breakage - this one off purchase will last you forever - never have to buy them again.

Post by **evanstaniland** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 8:13 pm

stinger wrote:Having trouble justifying $500 for one CV or $1400 for full set of CV and axles....

At $75 for a normal CV I would have to go though 5-6 CVs at the current usage rate of 1 a year that is 5 years of CVs.

I have also been told about another strengthened CV in Brissy for $550 a pair, not certain what they do to strengthen them (sent a PM but no response). These sound a little more reasonable.

I also service a company that harden rock drilling components by heating and cooling, wondering if I gave them a set of CVs would that work?

the added bonus of longfields is that you dont really have to worry about breaking them so no more shiat cv changes on trails!!

iv never broken a CV but as soon a i out reduction gears and big tires on i put them in for reassurance

Evan

Post by **yodaboy90** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 10:15 pm

i seen on ebay a few days a go 2 new cv's for $80 bucks i would buy 2 or 3 sets cause ya break them like tooth picks lol i have 2 spare in my rig

Post by **CV Smasher** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 12:22 pm

Learn from everyone elses mistakes......... by the longfields, i had them 7 days after i ordered them direct from longfield.

Post by **Micka** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 5:00 pm

stinger wrote:Having trouble justifying $500 for one CV or $1400 for full set of CV and axles....

At $75 for a normal CV I would have to go though 5-6 CVs at the current usage rate of 1 a year that is 5 years of CVs.

I have also been told about another strengthened CV in Brissy for $550 a pair, not certain what they do to strengthen them (sent a PM but no response). These sound a little more reasonable.

I also service a company that harden rock drilling components by heating and cooling, wondering if I gave them a set of CVs would that work?

Not sure where you are getting the $1400 idea from

The 4-piece super set for 80 series is US$750 + freight. It would work out to about $1100.

But that is for the STRONGEST CVs and AXELS AVAILABLE for a Toyota.

Forget about the backyard solutions.

Post by **g35me** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 12:03 am

$1112au delivered in 4 days.

Post by **dow50r** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 8:52 am

something else to consider....longs will wear out....especially if you put them in constants...they are strong, but that comes at a cost of wear and tear. Best to put longs in part time, best of both worlds...if you are having problems justifying the expense, buy secondhand toyota ones in a diff and you have spare gears/housings for frees.
Andrew

Post by **MissDrew** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:06 am

dow50r wrote:something else to consider....longs will wear out....especially if you put them in constants...they are strong, but that comes at a cost of wear and tear.

So the standard ones will not wear out too

Even a worm out long is going to be way stronger then a new standard CV.
Yes they will last longer in a part timer but so will a standard one (unless its busted by big wheels etc)

For me I hate working on my rigs these days, so I wouldn`t even think about replacing them with standard ones. I`d prefer to spend that hour or 2 in my pool

Post by **BUSTED100** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:49 am

with the longs wearing out in the constants 4wd cruisers (have to keep constant due to ABS etc...) what type of kms are we talking about before they're dead?

and do they make for the 105's?

Post by **dow50r** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:05 pm

Gday Steve
you may get 250kms out of std ones, longs would not last that, maybe half before they started clicking...but as has been said b4, they wont break....
Dont know if you can get 100 longs, you may need to put 80 ABS ones in (swap the ring over) and get a pair of 78 freewheelin hubs....the 78 run an 80 c/v with a larger hub.

Post by **stinger** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 8:21 pm

So if I replace the axles and CVs with Longs and already have an air locker in the front, what is the next week point? The FW Hubs or the diff???

Post by **+dj_hansen+** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 8:27 pm

Probably depends on how worn the diff is and the direction you are travelling, possibly the output on the transfer, not sure if these are a weakpoint in cruisers.

If in a straight line id say front diff due to the rotation and design of the diff being weaker forwards.

Post by **evanstaniland** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 10:41 pm

prob do a hub before a center!

Evan

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Another broken CV in 80 - what to do?

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