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re-drilling spring perch
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
re-drilling spring perch
Hey all. Im about to weld this spring perch onto this bundera diff (going in the back of my zook). I have been using this exact same perch on my old housing, using the very front hole (pushing my rear diff back 1"). I need my diff to go back a bit more, 1" hopefully!! Just wondering everyones thoughts if i drill another hole in this perch.. 1" away from the current front hole? Seems like i will be pushing the limits a bit!! Thanks heaps!!
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
The leverage force will be the same if you use an extra plate, and you have an extra part in the equation.
Why not find some longer springs of the same width that will fit your mounts, and move your rear (shackle mount) backwards.
Longer springs will flex better as well.
Why not find some longer springs of the same width that will fit your mounts, and move your rear (shackle mount) backwards.
Longer springs will flex better as well.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
That perch looks to be about 120mm long. If the original (centre) hole is used the diff will have 60 or so mm of leverage each way.ISUZUROVER wrote:The leverage force will be the same if you use an extra plate, and you have an extra part in the equation.
Why not find some longer springs of the same width that will fit your mounts, and move your rear (shackle mount) backwards.
Longer springs will flex better as well.
If you move to a forward or rear hole then extra leverage is induced.
Moving the whole diff rearward by fitting a centre bolt replacement plate (while still using the centre perch hole) WILL NOT CREATE MORE LEVERAGE on the spring.
Longer spring is possible but you've never looked at the back of a Zook chassis have you?
The rear shackle eye is already at the very back of the chassis.
Jas.
I have seen a zook chassis. There are pics floating around on here of some extensions which someone welded onto the rear crossmember to space the shackle mount back.
In both cases, the distance between the eye bolt and the centreline of the axle tube are the same. I assume the u-bolts clamp around the axle tube in both cases??? Or not???
If the u-bolts clamp to the axle tube, the leverage forces will be about equal in both cases.
In both cases, the distance between the eye bolt and the centreline of the axle tube are the same. I assume the u-bolts clamp around the axle tube in both cases??? Or not???
If the u-bolts clamp to the axle tube, the leverage forces will be about equal in both cases.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
This is why im having these dramas. I've put lux springs in, and cause of the rear hanger being hard back.. i made new front hangers. This, has moved the diff forward of the original location.ISUZUROVER wrote: Why not find some longer springs of the same width that will fit your mounts, and move your rear (shackle mount) backwards.
Longer springs will flex better as well.
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
Unless you've already moved it the stock shackle hanger should be able to be moved best part of 40-50mm rearwards from standard on a widetrack suzuki chassis I would have thought.
You made need to lose the drop shackle so you're not restricted to it's length.
I think you're going to need a custom main leaf made up though.
You made need to lose the drop shackle so you're not restricted to it's length.
I think you're going to need a custom main leaf made up though.
-Mal
Zook 1, 2, 3 gone
Patrol - Wheels, engine and stuff
Zook 1, 2, 3 gone
Patrol - Wheels, engine and stuff
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