I have just about completed putting a 1HDT in a HZJ 105, I have it in and it runs fine but I have an electrical and clutch gremlin, I have everything plugged in right except I have no belts on yet and there is a 3 pin plug on the original 1HZ motor's fuel pump that the 1HDT doesn't have so I left it disconnected. I now don't have any oil pressure gauge or any gauge working, the timing belt light is on but the tacho still works?
I did have clutch dramas but Dumbdance helped me out and sold me an isuzu truck clutch which will still suit the 300mm 1HDT pressure plate and the R151 gearbox spline. I have put in a brand new RPM (goes under another name now for the 4WD stuff) pressure plate, brand new throw out bearing and a flywheel all to suit the 1HDT. The only problem now is the clutch will only just disengage at the bottom reach of the pedal and engages again after only lifting the pedal a little. Can I solve this but using a longer slave cylinder rod? It might mean the throw out bearing will always be in contact with the pressure plate fingers? I have full pedal pressure but it will only disengage at the bottom of the pedal?
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1HDT in a HZJ105
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1HDT in a HZJ105
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Re: 1HDT in a HZJ105
the gauges could be a bad/lack of earth strap form the motor to the chassis. if the tach works, you must have connected something to the fuel pump. the three wires on the pump are fuel shutoff, tach, and either a IGN+ or earth for the tach. the same connections should be there on the 1HD-T pump, possibly opn a different plug. the plug is harder to see on the HD-T plug, it is hidden but eh boost compensator etc.Kramer wrote:I have just about completed putting a 1HDT in a HZJ 105, I have it in and it runs fine but I have an electrical and clutch gremlin, I have everything plugged in right except I have no belts on yet and there is a 3 pin plug on the original 1HZ motor's fuel pump that the 1HDT doesn't have so I left it disconnected. I now don't have any oil pressure gauge or any gauge working, the timing belt light is on but the tacho still works?
I did have clutch dramas but Dumbdance helped me out and sold me an isuzu truck clutch which will still suit the 300mm 1HDT pressure plate and the R151 gearbox spline. I have put in a brand new RPM (goes under another name now for the 4WD stuff) pressure plate, brand new throw out bearing and a flywheel all to suit the 1HDT. The only problem now is the clutch will only just disengage at the bottom reach of the pedal and engages again after only lifting the pedal a little. Can I solve this but using a longer slave cylinder rod? It might mean the throw out bearing will always be in contact with the pressure plate fingers? I have full pedal pressure but it will only disengage at the bottom of the pedal?
clutch you could try a bit longer pushrod, just chop an old bolt a few mm longer than the original. I'd check to see how far you can push the slave piston back into the cylinder; if you bottom it out then you will have some preload on the release bearing which is bad . on toyotas without a return spring on the fork, the release bearing is always in contact with the diaphragm fingers anyway, but there is no load. is the isuzu plate any thicker than the one that came with the clutch? might just have to wear a bit off it to get the pedal higher. also check to see that the master cylinder pushrod isn't a bit too short, even a few mm can make a big difference.
cheers
DD
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Cheers Dumbdunce for the clutch and the advice, the electrical system was sorted when I put belts on the extra plug on the 1HZ is another fuel shutoff for some reason, I am thinking it is for the low oil sensor etc to shut the motor down if it gets low.
I adjusted the clutch by pulling out the master cylinder and using the adjustment behind there, I adjusted it about 4mm and the pedal is fine now. I can still move the clutch fork up and down but not across, ie in the usual movement it would go if it was to disengage the clutch. I would say the throw out bearing is up against the fingers. The clutch was the same thickness as the 1HDT one, I will keep an eye on it and see how it goes.
Cheers, Kramer.
I adjusted the clutch by pulling out the master cylinder and using the adjustment behind there, I adjusted it about 4mm and the pedal is fine now. I can still move the clutch fork up and down but not across, ie in the usual movement it would go if it was to disengage the clutch. I would say the throw out bearing is up against the fingers. The clutch was the same thickness as the 1HDT one, I will keep an eye on it and see how it goes.
Cheers, Kramer.
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