Stock 40 PS Cooler Tube Question

[vk7ybi]

Hi All,
I have a stock 40 PS kit to fit, included is the cooler tube.. I'm unsure exactly where it mounts.. Does anyone out there have picture of where it mounts and where the bolt holes for the P clamps to hold the tube are? At the moment I've bypassed it, running the return line directly back to the pump reservoir..
I've had suggestions of installing an auto transmission cooler on there, but I'd prefer to keep it stock.. The PS wont be working hard.. TIA, Dion..

[RAY185]

My opinion: Cooler tube does bugger all. I ran mine without the cooler tube for years on deflated 35s with no dramas. If you want a cooler use a tranny cooler as you've mentioned, otherwise leave it out.

[12HT-HJ61]

RAY185 is right 95% of the time its really not needed.
If you were going to fit it ,it depends on which model and engine your kit came off to where it goes.
i have 3 different 40 series cruisers all with factory p/s and all 3 are set up totally different.

[vk7ybi]

I was a bit vague with my description.. The engine is 2F, year 1978. Pump bolts to DS head.. What it came off I dont know but the cooler in this pic resembles the one I have..



Also, the belt for the pump in this configuration, whats the correct length? I have a 15A1575, but other catalogues suggest 1385 and 1590.. I suspect theres not a lot of difference between 1575 and 1590, nothing the tensioner cant take up anyway..

[12HT-HJ61]

That is the same configuration as my 1982 FJ40LX,the cooler sits up in the top corner of the radiator support panel on the drivers side , you will see quickly once you sit it the how it all connects up,very easy , i can send you a pic if you want.

[vk7ybi]

A pic or two would be really handy.. I think I know why I'm struggling to find its home.. The PO has put some other radiator in there, and theres no radiator support frame.. I have one of those on the way though..

[12HT-HJ61]

PM me your email address as i dont know how to upload pics on this site.

[shorty_f0rty]

heres a pic of the complete system.

and it installed.

you can see the cooling lines in front of the radiator.

it runs behind the front grill support, on top of the chassis crossmember.

[vk7ybi]

Yours has differences.. Its a diesel and your tube is heaps longer.. Notice its not the same as the one in the diagram.. Thanks anyway..

[shorty_f0rty]

Yours has differences.. Its a diesel and your tube is heaps longer.. Notice its not the same as the one in the diagram.. Thanks anyway..

Apologies, as you neglected to specify this information in the first place I was not aware you were after a setup for a FJ40. Only trying to help and might help others searching for the same info in the future.

[vk7ybi]

Ok, heres the pictures that 12HT-HJ61 emailed to me, one of the cooler tube location and the other of the pump..





My 40 doesnt have the mounts for the tube anyway, so I might go with the tranny cooler option eventually..

[bj on roids]

Just run some 25mm or 40mm aluminium angle, bolt that to the front apron and bolt the lip on the cooler to it. EASY

[advarp]

Ok, heres the pictures that 12HT-HJ61 emailed to me, one of the cooler tube location and the other of the pump..

[pics]

My 40 doesnt have the mounts for the tube anyway, so I might go with the tranny cooler option eventually..

Hey just wanted to say THANK YOU for posting these, I am in the exact situation like you , have the same type of RHD P/S setup trying to fit to my 1979 FJ40, just cleaning the parts I received and wondering what the *** that aluminum tube was for and thinking it was from a Diesel or something... if you get more pics re routing of that tube pls post them - the lower part especially. i don't have brackets either but i will make up something, the apron on mine is fibreglass!

Can;t wait to try tomorrow to see how it all sits. I am still cleaning stuff / replacing gaskets so I won't be fitting it soon but need to fabricate fixings and make up things in preparation I guess... A/T oil cooler would be more complex to do in my opinion..

The other thing I has probs with was the water pump, I had a clutchless metal fan but the setup came with a strange (crapped) pump, double pulley and a clutch and plastic fan blades. So I bought a new pump with the metal flange suitable for the clutch fan and mailed the seller to SEND ME THE 2nd crank pulley - 'cause he only sent me one pulley out of the two pulleys (and no balancer) . I believe clutch fan is better - from my Maverick SWB :-) The clutch is probably dead by now but who knows... the hoses are f*** BTW so that'll be another $150 or so ($100 for high pres at Enzed...) oh well, at that age...

So yes... now I know what to do ...hehe - BTW did you get a steering column as well ? I believe it is slightly different from the non PS one...

[12HT-HJ61]

The only real difference in the columns is the power steering column is approx 1" shorter than than standard one,You can use a standard column but it will bring the steering wheel closer to your chest,i find its too close as it is without being any closer.You can and i have modified a few standard ones to suit using various different methods , but Australian standards dictate that any steering modifications are almost unaceptable especially cutting and welding , i will add that the mods that i have done in the past have all been for off road comp cruisers that were no longer road registered.If anyone wants more details on how i have done it in the past please feel free to PM me.

[advarp]

The only real difference in the columns is the power steering column is approx 1" shorter than than standard one,You can use a standard column but it will bring the steering wheel closer to your chest,i find its too close as it is without being any closer.You can and i have modified a few standard ones to suit using various different methods , but Australian standards dictate that any steering modifications are almost unaceptable especially cutting and welding , i will add that the mods that i have done in the past have all been for off road comp cruisers that were no longer road registered.If anyone wants more details on how i have done it in the past please feel free to PM me.

Aha, now I see why the seller included the column - the only prob is he has not included a key for the lock !!

Can you pls tell me if the P/S pump bracket is attached to the engine block through the engine lift hook ? It looks that way in the picture above. Unless i do it that way the P/S pump bracket squashes the thermostat bypass hose by abt 50%. With the Engine lift hook attached I gain 10mm clearance so the bypass hose only just about touches on the bracket. I have bought the new pump with clutch fan flange and the fan clearances are Ok now but the bypass outlets are identical on the two pumps and I very much suspect from what i see that the thermostat housings on the pre 8/80 and post 8/80 have the same outlet angles, although they have a different number of bolts. This means that the bypass hose between pump and thermostat body would be touching on the P/S bracket. Could anyone post a pic of the bypass hose against the P/S bracket perhaps ? Also that means I will need a 10mm spacer for the lower bolt of the P/S pump bracket.


Thank you

[12HT-HJ61]

You leave the lift hook bracket in place and bolt the pump bracket over the top of it.
As for the key to the lock ,just swap the barrel or assy over you have in the column you take out so you use your original key.

[shorty_f0rty]

do you know if you have the right bracket for your engine.

ive used the same power steer pump from a 2f on my 3b (petrol vs diesel) and it required swapping brackets over..

[12HT-HJ61]

3B's ran 2 different pumps one like a 2h/12ht (later) and one more like a 2F/3F or early 3B , regardless of which type of pump it has , if it mounts off the cyl head as he says what he has is in the diagram above, you need to fit the p/s pump bracket over the engine removal hook or space it from the head the same distance this allows clearance on the offending hose that advarp mentions.Its not that hard or confusing,as i said its designed to be spaced from the cyl head.

[advarp]

3B's ran 2 different pumps one like a 2h/12ht (later) and one more like a 2F/3F or early 3B , regardless of which type of pump it has , if it mounts off the cyl head as he says what he has is in the diagram above, you need to fit the p/s pump bracket over the engine removal hook or space it from the head the same distance this allows clearance on the offending hose that advarp mentions.Its not that hard or confusing,as i said its designed to be spaced from the cyl head.

I tried today, the cooler I have matches the position in the pics above quite well, just need a bracket at top and don;t know abt the bottom - can;t see how the pipe sits there in the pic unfortunately

I got some M10 25mm long 8.8 tensile bolts for the bracket, to replace the former engine hook ones (20mm long)... maybe I space that bracket a bit more so the hose has a few mm gap, don't like it sitting against the bracket - e.g. use 1 or 2 high tensile washers and 30mm M10s... the third, lower bolt will need a meaty spacer tho, like 15mm - no idea what to put there... (lotsa washers?). will put up some pics, but I just painted the pump and bracket with epoxy paint so that'll take a while to dry... a photo of the lower cooler tube fixing and of the P/S bracket in original position (photo from the front) would be great...anyone with stock P/S willing to take some ?

Re barrel, well I would've liked to keep the new arrangement as it has this button you push to take the key out - cool - maybe I can change only the lock itself ? I never did this before - could I just swap the barrel from the old ignition into the new housing as the key on the old column will open the doors and petrol cap as well ? Actually I did something really STUPID, the lock was in the ON position , I put a key in it and turned it to Lock, so now I can't turn it back. So how do I get this lock out ....d*mn..

[vk7ybi]

I found that the barrels wouldnt change over, theyre keyed differently.. So I just put the other key on the same key ring.. I also managed to get the lock stuck, but I fiddled with it till it came good.. I also didnt realise the lift hook went between the bracket and the head, I'd be interested to know what the stock spacer that goes at the lower bracket hole is..

If 12HT-HJ61 wants to email me more pics, I will post them up on here..