Inregards to a LWB zook bodylift:
The central body mounts have a stud that drops from the body. Is it possible to access these studs from the top and replace all with longer bolts and still be able to use the 14 nylon spacers i have, or do i need to utilise some nylons and some rhs steel spacers and then double bolt them?
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Sierra Bodylift ?'s again
Sierra Bodylift ?'s again
1985 LWB Suzuki Sierra, Lock-Rite Rear, SPOA, 2" Body Lift, Climax shackles, Rancho's,
Series 1 Rockhoppers, 31x11.5 MT'S, "To return from the dead very sooooon!"
[url]http://www.cyberdesigns.tk[/url]
[url]http://www.purefmx.tk[/url]
Series 1 Rockhoppers, 31x11.5 MT'S, "To return from the dead very sooooon!"
[url]http://www.cyberdesigns.tk[/url]
[url]http://www.purefmx.tk[/url]
You can access the studs from the top but it's not the best way to do it IMO. BUT if you must do it this way... To access the outermost (<- new word invented by me hehe 
)2 studs you need to chop a hole in the angled panel just behind the front seats. It's a bit of a guess as to where it is but if you have a look where the studs are in relation to the centre of the vehicle you can take some measurements and end up with a pretty good guestimation. Then you need to lop off the studs flush with the body and drill a hole through the part that is pressed into the floorpan. Then you have big holes in the floor and it does look kinda messy. Having said that it is a pretty strong way of doing it.
If I was doing it I would get ten 65mm round blocks machined up each 50mm long (assuming you want to do a 50mm bodylift). 4 of these blocks would be drilled through the centre to allow a 10mm bolt to pass through (these are the front 2 and rear 2). The other 6 are drilled through the centre and tapped to 10x1.25.
Then you take a 10x1.25 cutting die and cut the thread on each of the body studs all the way to the body (if you have a look at them there will be a section of the shank that is not threaded).
Once you have done this cut each stud to a length of 30mm (eg, there should be 30mm of threaded section protruding from the floorpan). Then you can screw the 50mm blocks onto the studs.
Install the stock rubbers between the blocks and the chassis and secure with 65mm high tensile 10x1.25 bolts. (I am not 100% sure if 65mm is the length but from memory that is what I used).
I used alloy but if I had them made again I would use steel as there would be less chance of the thread being torn from the block under extreme loads. Also, make sure you use some thread locking compound (locktite etc) on the threads when you screw the blocks on as well as the bolts underneath. I believe N*A*M had problems with one of his blocks unscrewing. I have not experienced this but I think that would be because I am using alloy blocks.
Damn! I never intended crapping on that much
Oh, BTW
)2 studs you need to chop a hole in the angled panel just behind the front seats. It's a bit of a guess as to where it is but if you have a look where the studs are in relation to the centre of the vehicle you can take some measurements and end up with a pretty good guestimation. Then you need to lop off the studs flush with the body and drill a hole through the part that is pressed into the floorpan. Then you have big holes in the floor and it does look kinda messy. Having said that it is a pretty strong way of doing it.
If I was doing it I would get ten 65mm round blocks machined up each 50mm long (assuming you want to do a 50mm bodylift). 4 of these blocks would be drilled through the centre to allow a 10mm bolt to pass through (these are the front 2 and rear 2). The other 6 are drilled through the centre and tapped to 10x1.25.
Then you take a 10x1.25 cutting die and cut the thread on each of the body studs all the way to the body (if you have a look at them there will be a section of the shank that is not threaded).
Once you have done this cut each stud to a length of 30mm (eg, there should be 30mm of threaded section protruding from the floorpan). Then you can screw the 50mm blocks onto the studs.
Install the stock rubbers between the blocks and the chassis and secure with 65mm high tensile 10x1.25 bolts. (I am not 100% sure if 65mm is the length but from memory that is what I used).
I used alloy but if I had them made again I would use steel as there would be less chance of the thread being torn from the block under extreme loads. Also, make sure you use some thread locking compound (locktite etc) on the threads when you screw the blocks on as well as the bolts underneath. I believe N*A*M had problems with one of his blocks unscrewing. I have not experienced this but I think that would be because I am using alloy blocks.
Damn! I never intended crapping on that much
Oh, BTW
Re: Sierra Bodylift ?'s again
purefmx wrote:Inregards to a LWB zook bodylift:
The central body mounts have a stud that drops from the body. Is it possible to access these studs from the top and replace all with longer bolts and still be able to use the 14 nylon spacers i have, or do i need to utilise some nylons and some rhs steel spacers and then double bolt them?
When I bought my Sierra, the butcher before me had done exactly that,
cut some flaps in the floor with an angle grinder, removed the studs and replaced them with longer bolts for the 2" body lift, then he just folded the flaps back down, he may as well have used an axe it made that much mess, and the first thing I did when I got it home was to remove the body lift alltogether!
If you must do a body lift, do not go this way.
Peter.
cheers guys, i figured this would be the case, like the threaded spacer idea, will give it a go.
Cheers
Cheers
1985 LWB Suzuki Sierra, Lock-Rite Rear, SPOA, 2" Body Lift, Climax shackles, Rancho's,
Series 1 Rockhoppers, 31x11.5 MT'S, "To return from the dead very sooooon!"
[url]http://www.cyberdesigns.tk[/url]
[url]http://www.purefmx.tk[/url]
Series 1 Rockhoppers, 31x11.5 MT'S, "To return from the dead very sooooon!"
[url]http://www.cyberdesigns.tk[/url]
[url]http://www.purefmx.tk[/url]
I did the 50mm high 65mm round alloy block thing too but I bored a 20mm hole through the block then a light sand to make hole SLIGHTLY larger.
Then cut off the studs @ 30mm.
Then I screwed (using locktite) some 48mm long, 20mm OD drilled and tapped right through round steel bar onto these studs.
This goes through the alloy spacer and is bolted up from underneath again with locktite and 60mm HT bolts. Dont forget to put the rubber anti squeak things back in.
-- note make sure whatever size lift block you use the tapped steel bar needs to be a couple of mm short as the alloy block will pound slightly shorter over time plus this will ensure your studs and bolts are up tight against the alloy and you are not gonna punch the 20mm bar through your floor.
If I were to do this again then I would just make the spacers from 65mm round steel bar cut to length, drilled & tapped and put rubbers on both sides to remove metal to metal contact totally, cheaper, easier and stronger.
Sorry for the loooong post
Then cut off the studs @ 30mm.
Then I screwed (using locktite) some 48mm long, 20mm OD drilled and tapped right through round steel bar onto these studs.
This goes through the alloy spacer and is bolted up from underneath again with locktite and 60mm HT bolts. Dont forget to put the rubber anti squeak things back in.
-- note make sure whatever size lift block you use the tapped steel bar needs to be a couple of mm short as the alloy block will pound slightly shorter over time plus this will ensure your studs and bolts are up tight against the alloy and you are not gonna punch the 20mm bar through your floor.
If I were to do this again then I would just make the spacers from 65mm round steel bar cut to length, drilled & tapped and put rubbers on both sides to remove metal to metal contact totally, cheaper, easier and stronger.
Sorry for the loooong post
I did the 65mm blocks, but i wouldn't use rubber between the block and the body. It is screwed up tight to the body with locktite on the threads.
If you put a piece of rubber between two metal surfaces you will get some movement on high impact, and then you have a chance of the block loosening from the stud. When there is nothing between the block and the body you can get the block tight with metal to metal contact and it will not move. I used stilsons to tighten it right up.
If you put a piece of rubber between two metal surfaces you will get some movement on high impact, and then you have a chance of the block loosening from the stud. When there is nothing between the block and the body you can get the block tight with metal to metal contact and it will not move. I used stilsons to tighten it right up.
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