Swivel Hub rebuild - How to pics and write up.

[GRPABT1]

you can get cotton glove liners, those over nitrile or kitchen gloves would be the go.

[smileysmoke]

ah good idea.. probably stronger too..

also forgot to say MUD-PIGSIERRA, champion write up, i actually used your instructions instead of the FSM pages as yours had much bigger/better pics and simplified all the instructions. my missus saw a few pics as she walked pass the nerdbox and said to say good camera work to you and your mate.. thanks again

[christover1]

Great stuff, very well done.
I just did mine today, long overdue.
I found bits of some past broken cv lodged against the king pin bearing, that didn't help.
Lots of divets in the outer races, and plenty of rust

[Ridge]

did you pull off the swivel end of the axel to clean it and pack it with new grease? if you did, how do you get it apart?

cheers andrew

[MUD-PIGSIERRA]

Didn't pull it apart I soaked it in petrol for the afternoon, I think I either air hosed what was left out or pressure cleaned the rest out. Then pushed in new grease around the bearings till it was forcing new clean grease out of the other bearings all the way around.

[mike_nofx]

Basically, the inner nut is done up to 90Nm, whilst turning the hub. The nut is then backed off until at zero tension, then re-tensioned to 10Nm.

The lock tab and outer nut is installed and tensioned to 80Nm.

10 Nm sounds pretty low (I know you dont do bearings up tight, tho) I have 2 torque wrenches, and the 'small' one starts at 30Nm and is 1/2" drive. My bro reckons he can borrow a tiny wrench, which he says is 1/4", But i didn't think they'd come in that size? so im guessing its 3/8" maybe.

Also, is the socket definately 50mm? I have one at work, but i'd either be 3/4 or 1" drive. Hopefully i can get reducers to go from 1/4" to 1"?? haha

So basically i'd like to know what size wrenches and sockets people are using.

Mike

[mnemonix]

I use a 50mm socket, 3/4drive, with a 1/2 inch adaptor. Picked up both out of the loose items bin at Gasweld for around $30.
Add a 1/2 inch torque wrench and you're good to go.

I was amazed at how simple this job is. I'd never attempted diff work before, but since reading this howto I've done several zooks and they all are as good as new now

[Gwagensteve]

10 Nm sounds pretty low (I know you dont do bearings up tight, tho) I have 2 torque wrenches, and the 'small' one starts at 30Nm and is 1/2" drive. My bro reckons he can borrow a tiny wrench, which he says is 1/4", But i didn't think they'd come in that size? so im guessing its 3/8" maybe.

Also, is the socket definately 50mm? I have one at work, but i'd either be 3/4 or 1" drive. Hopefully i can get reducers to go from 1/4" to 1"?? haha

So basically i'd like to know what size wrenches and sockets people are using.

Mike[/quote]

A) I have a 1/2" drive torque wrench that goes this low. It's a Britools item.

B) Yes, It's 100% 50mm. They are usually 3/4" drive, my Repco one is.

I know 10Nm seems low, but it'a not really 10Nm - there's 80Nm backing it up.

since I've gone to doing it by the book, I don't have problems with bearings. My PS side has loosened off a bit over 12 months, but with nasty unbalanced, offset 34's I'm not complaining.

Steve.

[MUD-PIGSIERRA]

Steve, not taking the piss but is your Zuk daily drive or wheeled quite often...? What sort of K's are you getting out of set of bearings...? Or do yours end up going because of mud and water?

[mike_nofx]

I started doing this job this afternoon, and im lucky i did. This is the first time i have attempted the job since owning the Sierra.

Ive only started on the passenger side, (the side with the leaking axle seal) and what i found was:

-Wheel bearing nuts both only finger tight.
-No shims at all on the king pin bolts, top or bottom??
-Top King pin bearing fell apart when removing axle (it was in one piece till i 'disturbed' it). It has a big chunk of the roller cage missing.
-The piece being held by MUD-PIG in pic 12 has what looks like a home-made brass bush fitted to it. Normal?
-And a CV ready to self destruct on my next trip out! It has large cracks in the outer part of the CV, where each of the balls are.

Luckily i have a spare CV (but i dont know wether the other side is stuffed yet either!) I removed the axle from the CV by popping out 1 ball at a time. Is this the correct method? (i know there is no other way, but is there a certain technique?)

Also, where is the best place to source a new king pin bearing? Suzuki dealer?

Thanks
Mike

[DieselZook]

SAFETY FIRST PLEASE ...

Yeah Jack stands at the time were holding up another Jimny and Vitara at the time and so I placed the tire under the car and trusted my trusty jack.

I have learned the hard way to NOT trust my trusty jack, of any sort. I have had vehicles come of jacks of various kinds on three occasions. The last time a brake rotor (that was still attached to the car) landed between my knees just in front of my crotch. I'm a slow learner I know, but this was the wakeup I needed.

So please, anyone who does this, or anyother work that involves taking off wheels, use chassis stands/jack stands for your own safety.

So Mud-Pig, go let down the jimny or vitara or go buy another set. It's not worth the risk

Otherwise a good write up. Fix the safety issues then bible it. I think we need more write ups like this.

PS You did have the other wheels chocked and the hand brake on, didn't you?

[mnemonix]

SAFETY FIRST PLEASE ...

Yeah Jack stands at the time were holding up another Jimny and Vitara at the time and so I placed the tire under the car and trusted my trusty jack.

I have learned the hard way to NOT trust my trusty jack, of any sort. I have had vehicles come of jacks of various kinds on three occasions. The last time a brake rotor (that was still attached to the car) landed between my knees just in front of my crotch. I'm a slow learner I know, but this was the wakeup I needed.

So please, anyone who does this, or anyother work that involves taking off wheels, use chassis stands/jack stands for your own safety.

So Mud-Pig, go let down the jimny or vitara or go buy another set. It's not worth the risk

Otherwise a good write up. Fix the safety issues then bible it. I think we need more write ups like this.

PS You did have the other wheels chocked and the hand brake on, didn't you?

This thread has been posted in the bible since long before you joined here. I really doubt the car is still sitting on the jack
The safety warning was given in the original thread.

[DieselZook]

oops.. I didn't look at the original post date. Sorry. (although I joined before this but had to re-join due to computer troubles).

As for the Safety warning - It's hard to find, almost as if its not that important. Surley it can't hurt to stress it.

[mike_nofx]

Some things i learnt

If buying new king pin bearings, buy them from a bearing shop!

I called Suzuki up (on Saturday) and they wanted $63 per bearing, and a 1 week wait.
Rang bearing shop, $16 and they had them in stock!

Also, when replacing CV's, You do not fit them to the axle in the same way you remove them! Took me ages to work out! haha

Mike