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Aluminum VS Polyurethane
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Aluminum VS Polyurethane
Hey guy's going to do a 2 or 3 inch body lift on my '92 Triton. I can get aluminum spacers machined up pretty cheap. Just wondering what would be better, poly or alloy. I just have this image in my head that the poly will flex like hell.
I'm going to get under the car and count the mounting points, also maybe take one out to measure the OD and internal hole. Do you guys think 2 inches or 3?
I'm going to get under the car and count the mounting points, also maybe take one out to measure the OD and internal hole. Do you guys think 2 inches or 3?
HDPE. High density poly ethelyne is what you need. Poly urethane will not be any good.
Aluminiun will be fine.
Which ever you can get cheapest/easiest
Aluminiun will be fine.
Which ever you can get cheapest/easiest
[quote="Uhhohh"]As far as an indecent proposal goes, I'd accept nothing less than $100,000 to tolerate buggery. Any less and it's just not worth the psychological trauma. [/quote]
Likewise, DOT in Qld will only approve metal lift blocks AFAIK - and only up to 2". Just FYI in case you ever move to QLD like most Mexicans are doingjoeblow wrote:also realise that poly etc won't be passed by most engineers etc in victoria.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Acetal cracks, so I doubt an engineer will pass it. It also absorbs water.DK wrote:Ally if you can get it or if you want poly look for something like Acetal
To answer your other Q i would never go any higher than 2"
Body blocks need to be made from a material that does not split or rub away.
Maybe UHMDPE, Ultra High Molecular Density Poly Ethelene.
I used 6000 series ally and had to change to poly and crush tube to get it aprooved. There reason was they could not varify what grade of ally it was.
an un-educated guess -> different grades have different property's ie, one will stress crack and shatter from vibrations very easily, while another will deform alot more elastically, ie crush down and then the bolts will become loose.-Scott- wrote:OK, time to show my ignorance. Can somebody explain why it matters which grade of aluminium? Serious question - I don't understand.nastytroll wrote:I used 6000 series ally and had to change to poly and crush tube to get it aprooved. There reason was they could not varify what grade of ally it was.
bn_sil80 - fit the minimum lift in you can to fit the tires you want. I'm also guessing you havent thought about things possibly needed such as.. extending gearar shifter's clutch/brake lines, moving the radiator etc?
Qld T'port WILL approve non metal blocks.ISUZUROVER wrote:Likewise, DOT in Qld will only approve metal lift blocks AFAIK - and only up to 2". Just FYI in case you ever move to QLD like most Mexicans are doingjoeblow wrote:also realise that poly etc won't be passed by most engineers etc in victoria.
Just Cruizin has sold heaps of them for Suzuki's.
Lux89 got his hilux lift approved only a week ago with plastic type blocks.
Jas.
Thanks heaps for all the responses guys. I have thought of all the necessary mods such as brake lines and rad hoses, but never thought about the gear selector. I'll go 2 inch I think. I just go my first set of muddies - MT117 Xtremes 33x10.5's and I have very minimal clearance. I trimmed the outer guard and gets VERY close to the inside wheel arch.
I'll get the blocks made up in 3 weeks when my old man gets back to Melb.[/i]
I'll get the blocks made up in 3 weeks when my old man gets back to Melb.[/i]
Are they metal sleeved?want33s wrote:Qld T'port WILL approve non metal blocks.ISUZUROVER wrote:Likewise, DOT in Qld will only approve metal lift blocks AFAIK - and only up to 2". Just FYI in case you ever move to QLD like most Mexicans are doingjoeblow wrote:also realise that poly etc won't be passed by most engineers etc in victoria.
Just Cruizin has sold heaps of them for Suzuki's.
Lux89 got his hilux lift approved only a week ago with plastic type blocks.
Jas.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
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