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Thoughts on Factory Rear Lockers

Tech Talk for Mitsubishi owners.

Moderator: -Scott-

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Thoughts on Factory Rear Lockers

Post by -Scott- »

For those in search of a rear locker for the 3.5/2.8, what about the J-Top imports? A fella on the Pajero Club forum just bought a turbo diesel J-Top with a factory rear diff lock - is that likely to be compatible with Oz Spec vehicles? If so, it might be an alternative source to look out for...

Frank?
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Post by Bitsamissin »

Yep should be identical particularly being RHD.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
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Post by Fatpaj »

I am only new to the forum but I can see alot of people wanting a rear locker for the Pajero's and having all types of problems why not tighten the LSD, machine the mating face of the carrier which holds the friction plates only 15-20 thou (I went 18 thou) the diff works the same if driven easly but when under load it will lock up and be as close to a locker as you can get I did it to a NH GLS and it would out perform Patrols, Tojos that had lockers may be the Mongrils helped a little
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Post by Bitsamissin »

Yes I'll admit the Paj's have one of the better lsd's around the clutch pack ones are effective but the later (97 on) Torsen type units are even better.
However you still have to rely on slippage for them to work a locker doesn't and thats the fundamental difference.
ARB have lockers for the rear of a 2.6 & 3.0 V6 the problems ones are the 3.5 V6 & 2.8TDI which run the larger centres, ARB will be developing one for these but it's still some time away (1-2yrs ??).
The IRS centre (NM/NP models) is different again so will need a totally new design locker.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
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Post by Begbie »

But how serious do you ahve to be to notice the difference? Admittedly i ahve done a lot of offroad but my LSD seems like one of my old CIG lockers, even the sliughtest turning ciurcle produces loads of screeching - surely unless i am trying to drive up Ayres Rock it would be almost good enough? At least compared to 2+k for ARB locker?

Justathought?
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Post by Bitsamissin »

True Begbie, but it depends on what you want to do with your 4x4.
Don't let anyone tell you an lsd is as good as a locker it simply ain't true having said that a proper functioning lsd will be just fine for a lot of people.
My lsd worked brilliantly before I put the rear ARB in but there was a big increase in offroad performance.
Someone once told me to think of it like this :-
- open diffs = 0% traction
- open front diff / good lsd rear diff = 30% traction
- open front diff / locked rear diff = 50% traction
- locked front & rear diffs = 100% traction

BTW Begbie do you play indoor soccer ?? We play a team called Begbie's Bitches tonite :lol:
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
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Post by abacus »

Hi,

after I have more or less given up on finding a diff locker for my 1990 Pajero TDI this seems better than nothing:

machine the mating face of the carrier which holds the friction plates only 15-20 thou


the problem is: I just don't understand it :cry: Could anybody exlain please what is meant? What's "thou"? Allways thought my English isn't too bad ...

Thanks
sven
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Post by J Top »

Thou is slang for thousanths of an inch.
There are about 40 thou to a mm.
J Top
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Post by Ian Sharpe »

For those guys wanting a rear locker for the 3.5l but cant find one...

Just get the front ARB locker, you wont need the rear.

Believe me a front locker is that good & I have both
so can talk from experience.
cheers
NL 3.5l auto with front & rear lockers,winch, custom 3.15 T/C gears
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Post by abacus »

Thou is slang for thousanths of an inch.


:P thanks, I'll take a look at it ...

By machining I would have assumed, that the space gets larger, the friction less ... but I guess I'll find out after dissasemly.

or those guys wanting a rear locker for the 3.5l but cant find one...

well, it's only a 2,5l diesel, but it seems to be the same problem.

My main problem is: in Europe there is no market, you just can't get these nice things, in the US they don't have anything for diesels ...

sven
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Post by J Top »

The clutch plates run in a drum, 2 halves bolted together.
Machining the matiing faces reduces the clearence inside the drum
J Top
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Post by 1993 NJ LWB »

is it easy enough for ya weekend DIY man to pull apart the the diff to the extent required for this job and put it back together. Also could you add some sort of shim(s) to the clutch packs(seen them for nissans) rather then machining the drum that holds them?
1993 NJ LWB bull bar, 2" Iron man coils/shocks/T-bars, 30mm coil spacers, Cranked T-bars, 33x12.5 Maxxis 751, el'cheapo spotties, Duel battery, 9.5" rear diff - more to come!
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