Front End Shake

Post by **Doctor Evil** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 11:50 am

Hope you guys can help.
I got a 95 GQ with 3" spring lift, 2" Body lift and at the moment have my 35" centepedes on, Normally I run 35" Cooper STT's.
I have a shake in the fornt end which now shakes the entire rig.
Have checked the usuals ie wheel bearings, mud bent rims etc and every thing looks OK.
Any Ideas.................

Thanks

Post by **65Mog** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 11:55 am

Try doing a search there has been alot of info posted on this topic.

Post by **Hoonz** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 12:07 pm

it could be your tyres are out of balance ... spesh being centipedes
and ur steering dampener is prolly shagged ...
need a wheel alingment?

Post by **hottiemonster** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 12:28 pm

mine shakes too. but the reason is becasue of the 34" jungle trekkers on beadlocks on my SWB mav

Post by **bogged** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 1:01 pm

Doctor Evil wrote:Hope you guys can help.
I got a 95 GQ with 3" spring lift, 2" Body lift and at the moment have my 35" centepedes on, Normally I run 35" Cooper STT's.
I have a shake in the fornt end which now shakes the entire rig.
Have checked the usuals ie wheel bearings, mud bent rims etc and every thing looks OK.
Any Ideas.................

Thanks

SO it started when you did the lift?? Did you change your caster bushes?

Has anything changed that may cause it?

Did it gradually get worse, or just happened after a weekend away or trip etc??

Have you tried things like the bushes on the control arms Shocks, steering?? Checked the caster/camber, maybe something is bent in the front causing the wheels to fight each other and cause a shake...

It has been talked about before..

Post by **Area54** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 2:01 pm

Here are some links to some topics where this has been discussed before:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=6610
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=5573

It's quite a common problem, my opinion is that you can spend a lot of money and still have the problem. I had this problem on my Mav with just 33 and steel rims. Now have alloys and problem is gone (the alloys I have are machined to finer tolerances than white wheels). Still shakes on the JT2s though. You learn to live with it and find ways around it - I would drive with the front street wheels on and the rear Simex's on the back, with the front simex's in the cargo area, then change near the trail head, put the front street wheels in the cargo area.

Post by **Daisy** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 5:23 pm

3 inc coil lift. 2 inch body lift LWB here. (thinking SWB may have the shakes worse than a LWB)

No shaking in steering.

No castor bushes. just running stock ones atm.. (thou it is like.. wooooooh (sick in tummy) when im doin 100 kph lolol

Then again i run 16 ich rims with 305/70r/16.. savin up for some 35/36's soon

Tom

Post by **hottiemonster** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 5:36 pm

Area54 wrote:Here are some links to some topics where this has been discussed before:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=6610
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=5573

It's quite a common problem, my opinion is that you can spend a lot of money and still have the problem. I had this problem on my Mav with just 33 and steel rims. Now have alloys and problem is gone (the alloys I have are machined to finer tolerances than white wheels). Still shakes on the JT2s though. You learn to live with it and find ways around it - I would drive with the front street wheels on and the rear Simex's on the back, with the front simex's in the cargo area, then change near the trail head, put the front street wheels in the cargo area.

lol with simex on the back and street tyres on the front.

What about me. 31" ATs on the front with 34" JTs on the back.

Post by **bogged** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 5:41 pm

hottiemonster wrote:mine shakes too. but the reason is becasue of the 34" jungle trekkers on beadlocks on my SWB mav

Gee how long have you had them? Ive missed the 20,000 references to them everywhere else, you should speak up when you get new rubber.. :finger:

Post by **hottiemonster** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 5:52 pm

with the ats on everything is good as for vibration with 3" sus at the moment. the 2" body is going in tomorrow and shouldnt change anything.

but when i stick the simex's on (34x11.5x15 JT2 beadlocks) there is vibration in the steering wheel at about 70km/h and up and the tyres hum starting at 30km/h

When i looked out the window once at the front tyres it seemed like they were moving side to side doing about 70-80km/h but when i got home and checked the wheel nuts they were still tight.

So i have found that the beadlocks must casue this problem. Is there anyway at all to fix the balancing on beadlox or is it just live with it?

Post by **hottiemonster** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 5:53 pm

bogged wrote:
hottiemonster wrote:mine shakes too. but the reason is becasue of the 34" jungle trekkers on beadlocks on my SWB mav

Gee how long have you had them? Ive missed the 20,000 references to them everywhere else, you should speak up when you get new rubber..

lol bruce, just rubbing it in for you, casue u love it and would die for rubber like this and also a diff lock :finger:

also just letting people know what problems i am having and the corz of it.

Post by **Juzza** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 7:22 pm

hottiemonster wrote:also just letting people know what problems i am having and the corz of it.

Most people are aware of your problems but don't really want to know what caused them! :roll:

Post by **bazzle** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 7:52 pm

After youve checked every thing I always then get a Bob Jane Bronze or Silver balance, Works every time

Bazzle

Post by **bogged** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:18 pm

Juzza wrote:
hottiemonster wrote:also just letting people know what problems i am having and the corz of it.

Most people are aware of your problems but don't really want to know what caused them!

Post by **bogged** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:20 pm

hottiemonster wrote:lol bruce, just rubbing it in for you, casue u love it and would die for rubber like this and also a diff lock

I have enough money in the bank at the moment to buy your car.. your tires and burn them and not miss it.

No, Im not 'dying' got your tires... Had no problems the other night where boogers and swimpers went did i?

Post by **hottiemonster** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:29 pm

bogged wrote:
hottiemonster wrote:lol bruce, just rubbing it in for you, casue u love it and would die for rubber like this and also a diff lock

I have enough money in the bank at the moment to buy your car.. your tires and burn them and not miss it.

No, Im not 'dying' got your tires... Had no problems the other night where boogers and swimpers went did i?

1. didnt do the drop off (going down) :finger:

2. didnt go up vic range (guy did on 33 muds and unlocked) :finger:

3. didnt go up the drop off (only 2 did) :finger:

4. took the CHICKEN track on the steps (7 didnt) :finger:

Post by **Area54** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:38 pm

bazzle wrote:After youve checked every thing I always then get a Bob Jane Bronze or Silver balance, Bazzle

This was one of the things I was referring to. You may spend a lot of money and still not fix it, and unless you drive only in mud and not tear any lugs off, and then the next time you put them back on the truck you ensure each wheel goes back in the correct place, with the studs lined up to where they were balanced, you will have wasted your money.

It will be something you may have to live with, simple as that.

Tyres of this nature will not remain perfectly balanced, due to lugs being ripped off, bias ply tyres will develop an imbalance just sitting in the back yard, crap in the bead from trail pressures, etc.

Post by **bogged** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 9:29 pm

Doctor Evil wrote:... at the moment have my 35" centepedes on, Normally I run 35" Cooper STT's.

Having reread it, the Pedes could be out of round...

Is it the same with the Coopers back on the car?

Post by **Juzza** » Thu Jan 15, 2004 6:22 am

Make sure the preload on your swivel housing bearings is bloody tight, this is the main reason (besides all the others) that GU's have this problem so badly, most of them come from the factory with almost no preload. Obviously helps GQ aswell.

Post by **Doctor Evil** » Thu Jan 15, 2004 6:49 am

Thanks for the info...........
The castor bushes have been done a while ago, might check the other bushes..........
Had the lift for 2 years so no drama's there.
However, the shake has only started (noticed) after the last 2 trips, which included some fairly steep rutted uphills and I poped the right front tyre off the rim twice....... :cry:

Haven't noticed the shake (not as amplified) with the Coopers but it's probably there.

Thanks again guys

Post by **Wendle** » Thu Jan 15, 2004 7:08 am

with the engine running, so there is power steering pressure, get someone to turn the steering half a turn left, half a turn right, over and over. sit/lie down in front of the car and watch what the panhard bushes are doing, there should be minimal amount of movement in the chassis bush, and none in the axle bush. this isn't the reason for the shake starting, but it is what allows it to amplify itself out of control...

Post by **bazzle** » Thu Jan 15, 2004 9:05 am

(see later post, couldnt delete)

Post by **MQ080** » Thu Jan 15, 2004 1:06 pm

Terrafirma wrote:need a wheel alingment?

This will not fix the shake

Post by **Wendle** » Thu Jan 15, 2004 1:49 pm

MQ080 wrote:
Terrafirma wrote:need a wheel alingment?

This will not fix the shake

running more toe-out will settle it down lots, but it isn't a real fix...

Post by **bazzle** » Thu Jan 15, 2004 2:48 pm

Thanks for the info...........
The castor bushes have been done a while ago, might check the other bushes..........
Had the lift for 2 years so no drama's there.
However, the shake has only started (noticed) after the last 2 trips, which included some fairly steep rutted uphills and I poped the right front tyre off the rim twice.......

Then I bet its balance
As in mud in bead or in tyre... or tyre moved on rim..

Bazzle :roll:

Post by **Doctor Evil** » Thu Jan 15, 2004 6:00 pm

Can't be balance, the fronts are on the rear.

Thanks for the info on the bushes.

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