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Diff Pinion Preload
Diff Pinion Preload
I've sprung an oil leak from my rear diff pinion seal. Changing the seal is easy enough, but does anyone know what to torque the flange nut to?
From memory there's a range of torque, but you also have to monitor drag when turning (with a fishing scale or similar) so there's not a hard and fast answer. That's because a certain amount of preload is required and that's provided by compressing the crush sleeve.
If the crush sleeve has already been crushed a couple of times and the car has some Km's on it, I don't believe that in all cases correct preload will be achieved.
Sorry, don't have a hard and fast answer and don't have the FSM in front of me either.
Generally, in my experience, you can't just run the pinion nut off, change the seal, and run it back on and crank it to a number. I've seen lots of sierras with loose pinions, almost always occurring after a "quick seal change"
Steve.
If the crush sleeve has already been crushed a couple of times and the car has some Km's on it, I don't believe that in all cases correct preload will be achieved.
Sorry, don't have a hard and fast answer and don't have the FSM in front of me either.
Generally, in my experience, you can't just run the pinion nut off, change the seal, and run it back on and crank it to a number. I've seen lots of sierras with loose pinions, almost always occurring after a "quick seal change"
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
I know Steve you're correct, but to monitor the drag properly, I'd have to remove the wheels and axles too, would'nt I?
As much as I hate to admit it, I did a dodgy and put the new seal in, put the flange on and torqued it up with my rattlegun. The only way I could stop the play was to tighten it as far as it would go indicating my crush sleeve is probably rooted. Took it for a drive around the suburb and it seems allright so far. Time will tell if it shits itself, it's a good excuse to tell the missus I need to rebuild it and sneak an airlocker into it at the same time
As much as I hate to admit it, I did a dodgy and put the new seal in, put the flange on and torqued it up with my rattlegun. The only way I could stop the play was to tighten it as far as it would go indicating my crush sleeve is probably rooted. Took it for a drive around the suburb and it seems allright so far. Time will tell if it shits itself, it's a good excuse to tell the missus I need to rebuild it and sneak an airlocker into it at the same time
If you're going to do it quick and rough, ras86 is correct - mark the spot, back it off, count the turns, change the seal, run the nut back on, count the turns until it starts to go tight and then line up the marks.
to check preload yes you have to have the axles out, by which time you might as well do it with the diff on the bench so you can properly check the pattern and play to know whether you were wasting your time or not.
and correct, gunning the pinion nut up won't be good for the crush sleeve.
Steve.
to check preload yes you have to have the axles out, by which time you might as well do it with the diff on the bench so you can properly check the pattern and play to know whether you were wasting your time or not.
and correct, gunning the pinion nut up won't be good for the crush sleeve.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
s
i jsut noticed that my zook is doing the same thing today.. looks like a new rear seal for me too
u wouldnt happen to have the part number there would u?
u wouldnt happen to have the part number there would u?
Zooks are for people that aren't afraid of angles and who have nothing to compensate for
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i've done a quick search here at work and come up with the following
part numbers and sizes
Pinion seal to suit
SJ410 (1ltr) 1979-1999 - front and rear
Amaando number = 401041N
= ID. 35mm X OD. 62mm X W. 10mm
= RRP $8.50 +
SJ413 (1.3ltr) front and rear.
i have two listings
a) Amaando number = 401098N
= ID. 40mm X OD. 72mm X W. 9/15mm
= RRP $12.00 + (due to it having a dust lip)
b) NAK number = PR0815
= ID. 38mm X OD. 50mm X W. 8mm
= RRP $9.00 +
so i would take the seal as a sample, run a ruler over it or buy both and return whatever doesnt work.
weaves.
part numbers and sizes
Pinion seal to suit
SJ410 (1ltr) 1979-1999 - front and rear
Amaando number = 401041N
= ID. 35mm X OD. 62mm X W. 10mm
= RRP $8.50 +
SJ413 (1.3ltr) front and rear.
i have two listings
a) Amaando number = 401098N
= ID. 40mm X OD. 72mm X W. 9/15mm
= RRP $12.00 + (due to it having a dust lip)
b) NAK number = PR0815
= ID. 38mm X OD. 50mm X W. 8mm
= RRP $9.00 +
so i would take the seal as a sample, run a ruler over it or buy both and return whatever doesnt work.
weaves.
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