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38's onroad???
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38's onroad???
hey everyone
some of you know my 40 is under going alot of work at the moment and as we are about halfway through the build i have to start looking for a set of tyres, anyway ill be doing about 60% offroad and about 40% onroad just the random cruise or so, now i want swampers but not sure which ones will be the longest lasting onroad. i would love a set of boggers but not sure how long they will last and yes i already know that they arnt road legal but im not worried about that. anyway any help would be great.
thanks mitch!
some of you know my 40 is under going alot of work at the moment and as we are about halfway through the build i have to start looking for a set of tyres, anyway ill be doing about 60% offroad and about 40% onroad just the random cruise or so, now i want swampers but not sure which ones will be the longest lasting onroad. i would love a set of boggers but not sure how long they will last and yes i already know that they arnt road legal but im not worried about that. anyway any help would be great.
thanks mitch!
Re: 38's onroad???
why not get a cheap set of 35's for onroad, and keep the swampers good for offroad?
both will last longer that way... and chances are the 35s may keep the cops at bay, where im sure 38's wont...
YMMV.
both will last longer that way... and chances are the 35s may keep the cops at bay, where im sure 38's wont...
YMMV.
it had 31's but i dont care, it looks like i will try and upgrade the brakes on the 60 diffs just to be safe, and i think 35's will look to small for onroad plus i hate seeing big trucks on the road with small tyres, so i might try and get a cheap set of 37s to drive onroad withshorty_f0rty wrote:mitcho do you think 38's with your driving record is a wise move? what was on the 40 when you rolled it? 33's or 35's?
Its not bad to drive, untill a car with a young family inside pulls out and you cant stop.Big_GQ wrote:Just harden up and do it i drive on the road with 37 boggers and 5 link front and and would drive on 40s if a bought some. it really isnt that bad to drive.
ADR have specs on road tyre size for a reason... Its just too much rotating mass to stop in and emergency...
i run 37's but i have upgraded all my breaks and run a larger booster.
I am one of the few that have done it properly...
Do it properly for peace of mind
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38's on road............ahhhh.....stupid idea. not worried about legalities? hey, thats the human race!
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
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CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
Im here for the sausage!
my comment on the 38s was based on having driven from cronulla to menai in shoty40s old rig.
it was on 38 super swampers, 60 diffs, 253.
it went fine on the road through traffic.
alot of the handling will be vehicle and suspension specific but it was fine i have to say. (considering how 40s go to start with)
it was on 38 super swampers, 60 diffs, 253.
it went fine on the road through traffic.
alot of the handling will be vehicle and suspension specific but it was fine i have to say. (considering how 40s go to start with)
EVERYONE LOVES A 40
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RAW4x4
i can lock up all 4 of my 33's on the bitumen any time i want.Big_GQ wrote:i no what your try to say but try and lock up 33 inch tyres or 35s and stop in a hurry it aint going to happen,even standard truck dont pull up that well that is why if gvm is over 2500 the brake test on rwc is much lower percentage to a car.
38's would be a copmpletely different story though.
Lockup isn't the best way to stop. Being able to lock up your brakes doesn't mean your brakes are good.Shadow wrote:i can lock up all 4 of my 33's on the bitumen any time i want.Big_GQ wrote:i no what your try to say but try and lock up 33 inch tyres or 35s and stop in a hurry it aint going to happen,even standard truck dont pull up that well that is why if gvm is over 2500 the brake test on rwc is much lower percentage to a car.
38's would be a copmpletely different story though.
When I engineered my Paj, part of the test was a braking test. On the track, with repeated stops and then an emergency stop, my brakes passed with flying colours. When the Paj went over the pits, they put it (one axle at a time) on rollers with big spikes on them, then hit the brakes. With the pedal depressed as far as it would go, the rollers kept turning the tyres - ooh bugger! But I passed the test - without being able to lock the brakes.
The ability to lock the brakes doesn't make your brakes good - it just means your brakes grab better than your tyres do.
when i did a driver training course once we were made to stop a car that had abs without using it. sounds wierd but u had to slam the brakes on without locking it up. it stopped just as well as when planting it and holding it and letting abs do the work. like -Scott- said it isnt about locking them up it wether the car stops trust me you dont want to slide, it makes it alot worse and it is hard to get the wheels moving again with big tyres. my lux has locked up a couple of times in the wet and i have just been lucky noone has been infront of me. if your going to run 38s on the road thats cool legalities aside id be increasing your following distance by atleast another 2 or 3 seconds just for safety and peace of mind
... they are the tyres i drive on. The brakes are being used to stop THOSE tyres. If i can lock up THOSE tyres on bitumen, the brakes are good.-Scott- wrote: The ability to lock the brakes doesn't make your brakes good - it just means your brakes grab better than your tyres do.
Next time im driving on a road of big spikes, i will let you know how "good" my brakes are.
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