new paj motor startup questions

[smccask]

I've just finished rebuilding the paj 6G72, and i have a few questions that i can't find definitive answers to:

1. Do I need to bleed the oil cooler at the top banjo joint (there is zero oil left in it) when i start the motor up?

2. Do i need to bleed the auto cooler after startup?

3. What is the best way to determine if oil supply is sufficient after cranking the motor for some time on the 6G72? is there a test bung or something to remove to check oil supply flow and pressure? or is removal of the pressure sensor enough?

4. How the F*** do you remove the auto trans sump with the gbox in the car? (it fouls on the transmission mount and can't be removed! Does it have a filter in it I can replace? (V4AW2)

[FrankR]

1. Do I need to bleed the oil cooler at the top banjo joint (there is zero oil left in it) when i start the motor up?

No.

2. Do i need to bleed the auto cooler after startup?

No.

3. What is the best way to determine if oil supply is sufficient after cranking the motor for some time on the 6G72? is there a test bung or something to remove to check oil supply flow and pressure? or is removal of the pressure sensor enough?

The 3.0L oil pump will not self-prime. The procedure I've found to be best is as follows:

a) Remove all spark plugs so the engine will spin is as rapidly as possible.
b) Disconnect the injector harness so cranking doesn't wash down the cylinders and dilute the oil in the sump.
c) Leave the oil filter loose so it can purge air - one turn from making seal contact is about right
d) Remove the OE oil pressure sender and install a mechanical gauge (with plastic tubing) in its place on the oil filter adapter so you can watch the oil moving through the clear line to the gauge and get an accurate pressure reading on the gauge. The thread size is metric (or BSPT) - so you may want to try to find an adapter, but I have found that with reasonable care I can thread the gauge fitting about a half-turn until it's snug and make it work..... just don't tighten it so much you strip the threads in the adapter.
e) Remove the CCV hose from the valve cover and use the valve cover port to inject about 4psi constant regulated air pressure from your compressor.
f) Crank the engine and watch the filter. When the pump purges and primes, oil will gush from the filter and blow out through the seal area. Stop cranking, tighten the filter and clean up the minor mess.
g) Crank the engine again and watch the line attached to the pressure gauge and the gauge dial. You should see movement of oil drops in the line and read pressure on the gauge. It should come up to about 1 bar or 15-20 psi. Stop cranking.
h) Reinstall the spark plugs, connect the injector harness and start the engine. Run it at constant 1500-2000 rpms. The pressure will rise to at least 80 psi (perhaps as much as 100+ psi) until the oil pump relief valve opens. - then drop to around 20 psi or so. Let the engine contine to run at fast idle for 15-20 minutes until it's fully warm and all valve ticking is gone.
i) Shut off the engine, drain and refill the coolant. Change the oil and filter.
j) Restart the engine and set the ignition timing before beginning the break-in driving for ring seating.

4. How the F*** do you remove the auto trans sump with the gbox in the car? (it fouls on the transmission mount and can't be removed! Does it have a filter in it I can replace? (V4AW2)

Yes, there is a filter screen that can be replaced. The transmission dipstick tube is a 2-piece slip fit that needs to be separated in order to remove the pan. The upper length is clamped to the engine via the upper starter bolt and another 10mm machine screw that is threaded into the top of the rear engine hanger. The top screw on the engine hanger is a tough job in tight quarters, but it can be done with time and patience. I find it easier to work from below and it might be easier to remove the starter to gain access. On reinstall, alignment is an issue and I find it easier to loosely install the 10mm screw before installing the starter bolt.

Good luck,
Frank

[smccask]

great, thanks heaps frank. Why do you say to drain and refill the coolant, is there a reason for this?

the auto pan however won't come off due to the gearbox x-member. i can get all the bolts out and the dipstick tube, but the gearbox crossmember stops the pan coming off by about 4mm

[FrankR]

I haven't looked at my transmission pan in a while - you might have to remove the mount and jack the transmission from the rear to gain clearance.

It's a good habit to drain fluids after a fresh startup to flush engine crud that might have been loosened and/or missed during the rebuild.

Frank