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THE "silly" question thread
Have been looking into aerodynamics in the last few days to see whether an air deflector at the front of the bonnet would be 'worth' anything on my trip to Perth. Came to the conclusion that it's not worth anything but found the following document by Kenworth that is very interesting reading.
http://www.kenworth.com.au/kenworth/pdf ... _Guide.pdf
Of particular interest were their findings that an aero bumper is worth 2%, sloped hood 2% and flush headlights 0.5%. So yes, recontouring a given projected frontal area to make it 'slipperier' certainly does help economy, but it's a package deal to get any kind of real-world improvement. Adding an air deflector might help keep bugs off the windscreen but won't significantly improve economy.
The biggest differences were the fitment of a full roof deflector in front of the trailer (5-10%) and side extenders to minimise truck/trailer gap (1-7%).
http://www.kenworth.com.au/kenworth/pdf ... _Guide.pdf
Of particular interest were their findings that an aero bumper is worth 2%, sloped hood 2% and flush headlights 0.5%. So yes, recontouring a given projected frontal area to make it 'slipperier' certainly does help economy, but it's a package deal to get any kind of real-world improvement. Adding an air deflector might help keep bugs off the windscreen but won't significantly improve economy.
The biggest differences were the fitment of a full roof deflector in front of the trailer (5-10%) and side extenders to minimise truck/trailer gap (1-7%).
In my case I had a lift fitted that lifted the rear more than the front. This meant that my hood, windscreen and roof angles were shifted more to the vertical, thus increasing my foward facing surface area and I seemed to use more fuel. Since fitting front spacers I'm more level (but still not stock front to back yet) and I've clawed back a few tenths of a liter per 100.
I agree that making significant gains would require an overall restructure.
No door handles, minimmise panel gaps, no roof rack or spotties, lowered, narrow low profile tyres, custom front bumper, some LED underbody lights.....wait a minute
I wonder how much difference putting a small rear spoiler on to try and reduce eddies at the back door might make
hehe
“Eddies,” said Ford, “in the space-time continuum.”
“Ah,” nodded Arthur, “is he? Is he?” He pushed his hands into the pockets of his dressing gown and looked knowledgeably into the distance.
I agree that making significant gains would require an overall restructure.
No door handles, minimmise panel gaps, no roof rack or spotties, lowered, narrow low profile tyres, custom front bumper, some LED underbody lights.....wait a minute
I wonder how much difference putting a small rear spoiler on to try and reduce eddies at the back door might make
hehe
“Eddies,” said Ford, “in the space-time continuum.”
“Ah,” nodded Arthur, “is he? Is he?” He pushed his hands into the pockets of his dressing gown and looked knowledgeably into the distance.
Hitchhikers guide?PCRman wrote:
hehe
“Eddies,” said Ford, “in the space-time continuum.”
“Ah,” nodded Arthur, “is he? Is he?” He pushed his hands into the pockets of his dressing gown and looked knowledgeably into the distance.
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
is crank scrapers go along the same theory as dry sump engines ?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Crank-sc ... ccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Crank-sc ... ccessories
[color=green]Vote Earth[/color]
No, but you can use them with a dry sump if you wish. They also do windage tray inserts for the G series engines.ofr57 wrote:is crank scrapers go along the same theory as dry sump engines ?
[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
They're more of a drag racing thing - they stop the crank picking up oil at high revs and sapping power.
I don't think there's really much of an application in an off road motor.
Steve.
I don't think there's really much of an application in an off road motor.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
All good sumps will have a crank scraper, as mentioned they help keep the oil off the crank and prevent it sapping power. I can't see them being a bad thing in any application, that said I wouldn't bother adding one on a fourby.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
When I bought my 40mm lift from ARB it came with spacer plates to go between the sway bar and the little verticel bits that hang down from the chassis at the front.thnk_again wrote:hey guys i put a 2" lift kit in my sierra (leafs allround) now the sway bar doesnt reach the links any idea's?
I was pissed off though, as I wasted $10 on the stupid things, and threw the sway bar out the back of the shed. I dont run a sway bar anymore. The only Sierra owner I know who runs a sway bar is my father, but considering he likes doing 5 point turns on the side of 30 degree+ hill climbs maybe he can justify it.
So yeah, spacers or ditch the sway bar altogether.
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
without gearing i would go somewhere around 29" tall and if your driving sand i would go a all terrain instead of a mud tyrethnk_again wrote:yea, drove it with out it on the road and it was awesome heaps better now with new springs and shocks,
another qestion what tyres?
i just want to use it to go fishing but i have to cross mudflats that are tidal and sand. i was thinking cooper sst? what you guys think?
[color=green]Vote Earth[/color]
lol sandy mudflatsofr57 wrote:without gearing i would go somewhere around 29" tall and if your driving sand i would go a all terrain instead of a mud tyrethnk_again wrote:yea, drove it with out it on the road and it was awesome heaps better now with new springs and shocks,
another qestion what tyres?
i just want to use it to go fishing but i have to cross mudflats that are tidal and sand. i was thinking cooper sst? what you guys think?
Should be fine so long as you don't have excessive axle wrap.nicbeer wrote:anyone know if a std sierra tailshafts will handle 2"sus and 1/2" transfer lift.
will it need spacers or new shaft with bigger uni/operating angle.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
205 / 70 R 15croatian4x4 wrote:i must be going blind.
What are the original Sierra WT tyre size and profile??
I can see the rim sizes in the bible but fail to see details on the yre sizes?
Cheers,
cw
Which if converted to imperial, is approximatly:
26 x 8 R 15
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
Got 4.9s installed in my case now.... only just noticed that the 4wd indicator ball bearing popped out on the floor whilst i was fiddling around reinstalling the case. (dont ask how i managed thast :s)
Is it just a matter of lowering the case, removing the 4wd indicator switch and then "dropping the ball back in", or is there a special way that the little fella has to go in?
Is it just a matter of lowering the case, removing the 4wd indicator switch and then "dropping the ball back in", or is there a special way that the little fella has to go in?
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