100s/79s free wheel hubs on an 80

[thrashlux]

I have been blowing free wheeling hubs up and off the side of the bearing carriers (mainly shearing the studs off)

has any one fitted the latter model (10mm stud) aisin hubs to an 80

Is it just a matter of drilling out the small 80series studs and retapping or are there spacing issues with regard to hole spacing

every time i have gone out lately I have broken hubs/studs
(it may have something to do with the wheels doing 80kph at a stand still with the lockers turned on then grabing a rock in the mud)?

there must be a stonger option

havent broken cv's but they can be sorted with longfeilds
I am running aftermarket 5.23 diff gears and an air locker in the front
so every thing is strong except the hubsI

any links or advice apreciated

thanks

thrashlux

[montezuma]

Did you shear those two little pins off of the face of the hub (between the studs)? I seem to remember reading that the studs weren't really meant to take a shear load. That's why toyota put the two little pins in their hubs. If those snap, people seem to ha ve problems with studs shearing off.

[thrashlux]

Did you shear those two little pins off of the face of the hub (between the studs)? I seem to remember reading that the studs weren't really meant to take a shear load. That's why toyota put the two little pins in their hubs. If those snap, people seem to ha ve problems with studs shearing off.

they break with the rest of the studs when it all goes bad one time they were all twisted sidways causing the bearing carrier to be stuffed as well

thats why i wanted to up grade to the bigger 10mm studs as in the 79s

cheers

[montezuma]

[quote="thrashlux they break with the rest of the studs when it all goes bad one time they were all twisted sidways causing the bearing carrier to be stuffed as well

thats why i wanted to up grade to the bigger 10mm studs as in the 79s

cheers[/quote]

You can also get ARP studs from Front Range Offroad here in the U.S. for the hub (stronger material), or put in 4 more studs. Hendrix motor sports does the mod. Drills out the hub, and the locking hub to accept 6 studs, and 6 pins. Prietty unbreakable.

[thrashlux]

Thanks for the confirmation of Ideas that i have been concidering for a while

I thought of the 4 extra dowl pins a while ago it is good to hear it can and has been done before

I had also thought of putting high tensile studs in
I would rather put bigger studs in from the veiw point that they are not as likely to be as brittle

thats when i spotted a 79 series with the 10mm studs fitted from factory
they are of a diferent casting to alow fitment of larger cone washers and have more clearance to alow for the bigger nuts that are required for the 10mm studs.

how do you go about fitting the bigger studs do you run them without cone washers?
what about nut clearance to the side of the free wheel hub assy

I have thought of running 10mm high tensile allen bolts with the extra 4 dowels fitted as well

hope that holds

I like the idea of factory stuff hence the 79s hub idea

thanks thrashlux

[75 cruser]

ive seen a few trucks with extra locating pins in between the studs, from what ive seen thier is not much meat left on the hub when you drill them out for the 10mm conversion

from the bible

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=11856

rob

[montezuma]

adding dowel pins:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... did=233101

Stronger studs:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... onger+stud

Larger studs:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... did=209057

Here's a few links to threads over on pirate4x4.com. Be warned, alot of the guys over there take pride in bashing on people who don't usually post. So before you post, make sure you have searched through the FAQ entirely. Hope the links help.

Cullen

[thrashlux]

thanks very much Rob and cullen

I have reveiwed and looked at this material and then looked at my truck

I dont think i can put the extra 4 dowls in due to the way the 80s hub(bearing carrier) is constructed it has 4 indentations of air where the dowls need to go
cullen I noticed you asked the question about this on pirate but i could not see any response did you ever get any?

so it looks like i am limited to the 10mm stud/ hi tensile mods

I have had a few ideas about the best way to do this

I believe that some extra strengthening of the free wheel hub assy may be nessary some how due to the amout of metal removed in fitting the studs and larger cone washers

thanks

jonathan

[montezuma]

thanks very much Rob and cullen

I have reveiwed and looked at this material and then looked at my truck

I dont think i can put the extra 4 dowls in due to the way the 80s hub(bearing carrier) is constructed it has 4 indentations of air where the dowls need to go
cullen I noticed you asked the question about this on pirate but i could not see any response did you ever get any?

so it looks like i am limited to the 10mm stud/ hi tensile mods

I have had a few ideas about the best way to do this

I believe that some extra strengthening of the free wheel hub assy may be nessary some how due to the amout of metal removed in fitting the studs and larger cone washers

thanks

jonathan

You need to buy a drive flange that doesn't have those airgaps. Ideally, buying a set of aftermarket chomolly driveflanges from Trail-gear or Bobby long would be perfect. But there are also stock flanges that were round (and as strong as the cv joints). I don't remember what toy they came stock on but they do exist, and you do have to be carefull because there was also a series of round flanges on certain yota applications that came with a set of offset dowell holes. two where they should be, and two holes closer to the studs. These would be alot harder to drill the hub for.

I'm currently building up an FJ80 front end to go under my 1982 toy, and I will be going with the ARP hub studs. They've proven themselves to be reliable, you don't need to buy all of the other hardware ( new cone washers), spares are plentifull, and it doesn't weaken the free wheeling hub. The best of all worlds.

[thrashlux]

thanks very much for that response

so just confirming the part that has the air gaps is the part that has the wheel bearing in it (bearing carrier) does boby long make a tough set of these that are round?
if that is the case then
I am not going to stuff around I plan to come back to the states for a few weeks early next year so i will order a set of hubs axles and cv's from longfields

I will bring them back, do the six dowl mod and fit some arp studs that way the free wheel hubs are std and unweakend

then I will see what i can break next

thanks
jonathan

[montezuma]

thanks very much for that response

so just confirming the part that has the air gaps is the part that has the wheel bearing in it (bearing carrier) does boby long make a tough set of these that are round?
if that is the case then
I am not going to stuff around I plan to come back to the states for a few weeks early next year so i will order a set of hubs axles and cv's from longfields

I will bring them back, do the six dowl mod and fit some arp studs that way the free wheel hubs are std and unweakend

then I will see what i can break next

thanks
jonathan

I apologise, I thought you were talking about the drive flange, or locking hub that bolts to the end of the free wheel hub (which houses the wheel bearings). Bobby long doesn't make free wheeling hubs, he makes flanges and locking hub gears. I have a set of 80 hubs in the garage from an 80. I thought they were fully round, but will check tomorrow. Sorry for the confusion.

[bj on roids]

GXL and higher spec over here had funny shaped drive flanges.

[1MadEngineer]

FFS - change to M8x45 grade 12 socket head cap screws (plus a washer). Drill a 2mm diameter hole in the head and tiewire in groups of 3.

WHY? cus the std studs fail cus they become loose and fret on the studs, to the point at which the dowels shear, then the studs snap.....

If you use the SHCS and tie wire them so they don't come loose you will never have this problem again. FIXED.

[thrashlux]

Yeh I know about the loose thing
I actually check tightened them at the bottom of the hill before i smashed everything the last 2 times

I think 8000 rpm and 35 inch tyres may have something to do with it

thanks for the Idea for lock wiring them
i do this on aircraft all the time
would be a good addition to the final solution

which will have to include 10mm studs i feel and longfeilds

thanks

jonathan

[1MadEngineer]

Yeh I know about the loose thing
I actually check tightened them at the bottom of the hill before i smashed everything the last 2 times

I think 8000 rpm and 35 inch tyres may have something to do with it

thanks for the Idea for lock wiring them
i do this on aircraft all the time
would be a good addition to the final solution

which will have to include 10mm studs i feel and longfeilds

thanks

jonathan

We have done 30 odd comps including 4 tufftrucks . . . . . and broken so much stuff, but NEVER a M8 gr12 when its been wired. We have been running 30spline longs since they were first released, and also the chromo hub gears (and now drive flanges). with 37" cut boggers and comp spec trepadores. I think you will be surprised how much power they can take.

cheers
Greg

[thrashlux]

Well sounds good got nothing to lose
i will get some M8 gr12 see if they break if the pass the test they stay

thanks


jonathan