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Rear A Arm ball joint replacement

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

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Rear A Arm ball joint replacement

Post by 86MUD »

Well...after stuffing around for a long time deciding on what to do with modifying the A arm ball joint (to compensate the 3" lift) , I have purchased a Maxi Drive "high" ball.

So...are there any tricks to removing the old unit from the housing? I have been able to remove the threaded shaft part from the axle housing, but is it best to use a press to remove it from the A arm housing? Any alternative to a press?

Cheers

Andrew
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Post by Loanrangie »

You will need to press out the old and in the new, tried without one but not worth the hassle. Easiest way is to unbolt the short section that holds the bj and take it to someone with a press to do it for you.
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
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Post by Dave_S »

Loanrangie wrote:You will need to press out the old and in the new, tried without one but not worth the hassle. Easiest way is to unbolt the short section that holds the bj and take it to someone with a press to do it for you.
Agreed. I did this recently and finally bought a press to do this (and lots of other) jobs. Make sure you thread the nut part way on the old bj before pressing it out as when it lets go, it REALLY lets go :!:
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Post by 86MUD »

Dave_S....What size press did you buy and where from?

Maybe....I should get one...

Cheers

Andrew
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Post by lokka »

I brought a 12 T press from super shyte and amazingly it has the power to do this verry job and it also comes in handy when doing front radius arm bushes,panhard bushes,rear trailing arm bushes im yet to find a bush it wont move tho i always use lube and have a good selection of arbor's to push stuff in and out with i find that minimal tollerance works the best when removing stuff
Cheers

Chris

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Post by Dave_S »

I just went with a 12 ton from Trade Tools. Shop around the various tool places for a deal. They really are very handy and not too big.
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Post by qserv »

where did you get the maxidrive high ball joint from?
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Post by 86MUD »

MR Automotive in Brisbane.....
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Post by lokka »

Lookin at the MR web page them maxi high balls look ok and speakin with the guy at MR he tells me there about 2in higher than standard and at $195 a peice they are fairly priced and they are adjustable to suite the hight required heres a pic from the MR web page they look the goods ...

Image
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Chris

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Post by cooter »

i did on once with no press i bashed the old one out with a hammer then put the new ball joint in the freezer for 2 hours and heated the housing in an oven for 25 mins and they slipped together easy as
http://www.4wdaction.com.au/shed/index.php?id=1097&im=1
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Post by defmec »

has anyone used the new maxi ball joint yet i have had one mal used to sell that didnt have the 2 inch height .i still cant see it fixing the castor on the rear pinion
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Post by 86MUD »

Now that's creative thinking....
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Post by schuler »

I think BBM Rick had the best solution, check his post about his rangie.

He machined up a spacer block, simple and elegant.

Cheers

Steve
86 Rangie, F+R 4:11 Maxi, 35 Pedes, 6 point cage, Comp High Mount
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Post by uninformed »

the more you raise the seuspension and the more you raise the rear ball at the rear axle, the more you raise anti squat.... something to think about

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Post by lokka »

Yep the spacer block can work beter as you can make the diff rotate back further to fix the pinion probs im going to have a crack at making one this week il post up my results soon ...
Cheers

Chris

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Post by 86MUD »

I have looked at both options.....I even bought a spacer block from Rovertym in the US.

I have never had any problems with my 3" spring lift with vibration or pinion problems.

When I went to install the spacer block, the pre drilled holes in the spacer block forced the diff rotate to an angle that looked weird and I was a bit worried it was rotated too far.

So I sold the spacer block and bought the high ball. I am trying to find time this weekend to install it.

Stay tuned for pics.

Cheers
Adrew
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Post by GRIMACE »

with regards to the raised ball, just make sure you keep and eye on the mount and check it from time to time, the little extra leverage can take its toll on the diff mount.
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Post by Simo63 »

GRIMACE wrote:with regards to the raised ball, just make sure you keep and eye on the mount and check it from time to time, the little extra leverage can take its toll on the diff mount.
Correct, particularly if used in conjunction with a rear locker.
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Post by hook »

86MUD wrote:I have looked at both options.....I even bought a spacer block from Rovertym in the US.

I have never had any problems with my 3" spring lift with vibration or pinion problems.

When I went to install the spacer block, the pre drilled holes in the spacer block forced the diff rotate to an angle that looked weird and I was a bit worried it was rotated too far.

So I sold the spacer block and bought the high ball. I am trying to find time this weekend to install it.

Stay tuned for pics.

Cheers
Adrew
I did get around to fiting mine,
stoped killing uni every 8 monhts.
BUT when the diff rotate the spring mounts also rotate,
PUTING a bow in the springs,
springs now tied on top, stops them falling out.
Still to find a fix for the spring mount,
other then grinding and welding????
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Post by defmec »

lokka wrote:Yep the spacer block can work beter as you can make the diff rotate back further to fix the pinion probs im going to have a crack at making one this week il post up my results soon ...
i will buy one off ya for a 3 inch lift ;)
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Post by lokka »

hook wrote:
86MUD wrote:I have looked at both options.....I even bought a spacer block from Rovertym in the US.

I have never had any problems with my 3" spring lift with vibration or pinion problems.

When I went to install the spacer block, the pre drilled holes in the spacer block forced the diff rotate to an angle that looked weird and I was a bit worried it was rotated too far.

So I sold the spacer block and bought the high ball. I am trying to find time this weekend to install it.

Stay tuned for pics.

Cheers
Adrew
I did get around to fiting mine,
stoped killing uni every 8 monhts.
BUT when the diff rotate the spring mounts also rotate,
PUTING a bow in the springs,
springs now tied on top, stops them falling out.
Still to find a fix for the spring mount,
other then grinding and welding????
Make up some wedges so you can pack the under side of the spring seat so it comes back round level its not hard to fix the spring seats when you rotate a diff housing :D :D
Cheers

Chris

Questions $20ea Answers for said Questions $100ea
I can fix your F'ups for a fee .......
Posts: 764
Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2005 10:59 pm
Location: STOCKTON NSW

Post by lokka »

defmec wrote:
lokka wrote:Yep the spacer block can work beter as you can make the diff rotate back further to fix the pinion probs im going to have a crack at making one this week il post up my results soon ...
i will buy one off ya for a 3 inch lift ;)
Yep no probs once i sort em il let ya know il probably just make up a batch of em and advert em here :D :D :D
Cheers

Chris

Questions $20ea Answers for said Questions $100ea
I can fix your F'ups for a fee .......
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