Pyrometer Group buy / question

Post by **The Fish** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 7:51 pm

Recieved my pyro today

Thanks for organising this Ben

Post by **Dominator** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 7:09 pm

for any body interested i have worked out a way to set the pyro up as a turbo timer. if you want details let me know and i will start a thread.

Post by **joshy** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 11:21 pm

can you run it as both at the same time?

Post by **Dominator** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 6:43 am

joshy wrote:can you run it as both at the same time?

yeah. it still works as your pyro. the only down side is you cant use the alarm function because you will be using that as your timer. It will work as a automatic timer. when you start your car up you can watch the egt rise and as it gets higher it slows its rise and the oppisite happens when you leave the car to idle after you have been driving (you can watch the temp come down). using this and the alarm function you can set a egt for the car to turn off at (if the ignition is off). That way the harder you drive the longer it will take to reach your set temp and thus turn off. there you have an automatic timer.

Post by **Tomo_89** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 7:00 pm

Is it possible to shut it down straight away though when set up like this or do you always have to wait?

Post by **vtec power gt** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 2:01 am

Hi i have just joined outerlimits after I have just been on here as a guest I would be very interested in buying one of the green displays and a long thermo coupling but I see that so far you haven't sent one to the uk do you think this would be possible and any idea on the cost of shipping I do understand if you would not want to get involved as i am new and unknown to you plese let me know p.s i think this is a great forum there is nothing in the uk that comes close to this thanks chris.

Post by **fester2au** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 7:15 pm

Did you guys also know they can be used as a boost gauge, although not at the same time as EGT. However if you wanted matching gauges and like to keep them small you can get one and turn it into a boost gauge. better still they are electronic rather than mechanical. All you need is a slight wiring mod and a MAP sensor from something.

On a different note however here is the trial fitup of mine in an early 80 series dash using the clock hole. Seeign as I have a clock in my stereo and I hate chopping up dashes and like my interior to look reasonably original I decided this was a perfect spot.

The writing on the left says Exhaust Temp funnily enough.

This is the new little stainless mounting box I made to hold it, similar to the clock assembly, all I need now is to position it and tack the little lugs on the back to hold it in place to the factory mounting points.

Post by **Dominator** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 5:12 pm

Is it possible to shut it down straight away though when set up like this or do you always have to wait?

yeah i have wired mine up with an on/off switch and also in series with the hand brake switch. that way if someone tries to steal you car while it is still running it will turn off when they take the hand brake off.

Post by **joshy** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:00 pm

how important is the depth of the probe that goes into the exhaust? when i got the custom exhaust i asked for a fitting put in for it and the guy put 1 in thats 3 times 2 big, i was going to just drill and tap the bolt thats in it now but that will leave bugger all of the probe sticking in because of the bend in it.

Post by **fester2au** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:14 pm

If by too big you mean diameter then hold back. Depending on how big a socket they welded in and what thread it is you might find a reducer that will screw straight in and allow you to then fit the probe. Go to a plumbing or hydraulics type place with the bolt and the probe fitting and they might be able to find a reducer that screws straight in.

Or if that is not successful and you want to drill and tap it then remove the bolt burr up part of the thread near the top. Burr up a part that is near the top but that will engage the thread once it is nearly wound right in. Then screw it up real tight so the burr contacts and crossthreads locking the bolt in then grind/cut the protruding section off before drilling and tapping, that will get you in as close as possible. However option one is preferred.

Post by **joshy** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 5:56 pm

cheers mate.

Post by **love ke70** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 10:09 am

looking at buying one of these direct (with the dollar be so strong and all it seems like a good time

)
just wondering, when you guys have fitted these, do you just weld a nut onto the dump pipe and screw the fitting into that, or put the nut down into the dump a ways so the probe goes further in?

was just thinking with the nut welded onto the exhaust, not into, only gonna have it in 25mm at best....

thoughts?

and how close to the turbo do people go?

cheers, andrew

Post by **Josh n Kat** » Mon Nov 03, 2008 8:34 pm

Just curious how everyones been going with their pyrometers? I've only just got mine in and am having trouble understanding the instructions on how to program the alarm range if anyone could help that'd be great!

Post by **joshy** » Mon Nov 03, 2008 9:02 pm

i just installed mine, but i was a little hazy with the alarm setting aswell...

Post by **Josh n Kat** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 6:54 am

Yeah it all got a little confusing for me, are you able to set it to a particular temperature or do you set it to a rang present by the unit? I can imagine once you get the hang of the steps to take to program it seems like quite a simple system.

Post by **fester2au** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:52 pm

I had a crack and think I got it but you're right it was still a little confusing so not sure I run you through it easily. Don't have the instructions handy either at present.

Have a look at the instruction manual you downloaded off the net, you did download the instruction off the net didn't you

.

Have a look for the section of programming where it references the high and low settign which are preset at 900 and 800. Follow this bit to change it. You can't really stuff it up so just have a little play back and forth till you get it. I'd suggest you first try setting it around say 200 - 300 depending on how hot your truck runs in daily use. I set mine to the higher limits I want but don't know if it's right as in day to day running to work I don't get over about 280 degrees.
The code to enter the right programming mode 0001. You want to change the AH1 settign to what you want as your alarm set off point eg 500 or 450 degrees. This should be before your critical temp NOT you critical temp so we assume somethign below 550 degrees (post turbo). Then
you set AL1 to the figure you want the alarm to turn off say 50 to 100 degree less than your warning temp, just depends what range you want to work within. Follow the instructions in your manual on how to scroll around this menu but the main thing is that AH1 must be set higher than AL1 for it to work as a high point alarm. If you set them the other way round it becomes a low warning alarm.
Sorry can't be more help if you're still struggling I try and dig out my instructions from work.

Post by **Josh n Kat** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 8:51 pm

no no thats good! it makes a bit more sense than what i was looking at before, but as you said you can't kill the programming or anything so if it doesn't work i just have to go back and swap it round.

Post by **bludger** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 11:24 am

is there going to be another group buy or is still some left over for me to buy

Post by **fester2au** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 6:24 pm

Josh n Kat wrote:no no thats good! it makes a bit more sense than what i was looking at before, but as you said you can't kill the programming or anything so if it doesn't work i just have to go back and swap it round.

Just don't go into the other setting mode and screw around in there as that is where some of the baseline perameters appear to be stored and they could upset the calibration. Not that they can't be reversed if you can follw the instructions. There appears to be nothing of use in menu 0089, or at least I haven't worked any out yet.

Post by **ISUZUROVER** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 4:44 pm

I bought one of these (outside the group buy). Very happy, easy to install and wire and very rapid response.

Post by **love ke70** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 6:37 pm

me too

i was impressed

Post by **Stev** » Tue Dec 09, 2008 9:44 pm

Hi All,

Have recently ordered one of these and just now found this thread. A question for those of you who have yours about the headlight dimming function. Does the display dim with your instrumentation ? As in is the signal for terminal 3 a 12V signal that dims down to 0V ? Or do you just use a 12V signal for when the headlights are on and set a dimmed level in the display ?

Cheers

Post by **ISUZUROVER** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 12:10 am

I just ran a +ve feed from my other dash lights. It dims when I turn the lights on.

Post by **love ke70** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 5:10 pm

i was going to, but ended up not bothering as you can just press the down button and it dims it anyway, i dont find it too bright at night anyway

Post by **fester2au** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:26 pm

If you hooked it to the dimmer switch circuit it may work with variable dim, not sure.

The primary function appears to be for hooking it to your standard dash light circuit and therefore as stated by the others it dims when you turn your lights on. Same way your factory radio etc dims. Normally the dimmer switch circuit is only the instrument cluster circuit so depends on what you are rally after.

I installed mine in my 80 series in the slot where the factory clock was. I was able to just make up a connector loom and take my feeds from the plug that serviced the clock. So I got power and earth as well as the dim trigger wire from that curcuit and it dims with headlight switch just as the clock would have.

Post by **Stev** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 9:30 pm

Thanks for the replies,

I'll have to wait untill it arives and try a few hookup methods. It probably doesnt have a variable dim just normal and dim. I dont have a 12 V dimming signal as my dimming wire seems to be switching earth so hopefully a straight 12V signal will do the job.

Post by **rumpig89** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 6:21 pm

pics of where people have put them in gq? contemplating gettin one

Post by **love ke70** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 6:30 pm

velcro'd mine on top of the dash, beside the gauges

the pyro isnt too bright at night, its the bloody led gauges that i need to move, just remember, no point having it if its not in line of sight

Post by **fester2au** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 6:36 pm

love ke70 wrote:velcro'd mine on top of the dash, beside the gauges
the pyro isnt too bright at night, its the bloody led gauges that i need to move, just remember, no point having it if its not in line of sight

Actually I beg to differ ke70. This is the main reason I bought this particular gauge. With the alarm function it doesn't really need to be in that direct line. You can se the warnign to whatever pre temp figure you want so no need to be watching itlike a hawk. Trick is to get a handle on how fast your temp moves if yours tends to run hot. No point having a 50 degree buffer if it flys past that in a second. Mine never seems to get hot so I have my preset at 100 degrees below therefore no need to really watch it unless the alarm goes off. Mind you mines in the clock appature of my 80 series so not hard to have a quick glance anyway.

Post by **love ke70** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 7:13 pm

that is a fair point with the alarm, i never set mine, i just watch it, i just like to see what the temps are doing, even highway cruising, so i know how much load its seeing etc.
amazing how much lower boost and egt is behind a truck

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