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track width

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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track width

Post by ajsr »

ok all put your thinking caps on
I think i've lost the suzuki advantage a little
Ive got wide track diffs with 8"sunnys altered so all (100%) of the offset is to the outside. Nice and stable now but problem is now im falling into the ruts from those monsta shitter luxes and patrols , i used to sit ontop of these ruts when i was narrow track.
Problem is i need the width as im spoa with a bit of lift on 32x10.5 mongrels
I was wondering if I could switch to 10" rims and get the offset changed so they have the same amount of offset in inches to offset out side as th 8" rims with the extra 2" per side inside, makeing me 4 inches narrower under the car. Will this help???? can I put 10.5 inch wide mongrels on a 10" rim?? any other sensible suggestions??
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Post by mrRocky »

2" wheel spacers, hilux diffs, 12.5 wide tyres and 10" rims, having the centres flipped to have mega offset. As soon as your wider than standard expect to stay in the ruts. however a suzuki with 33 muddies has about the same clearance as a pootrol with 36"s as they have big diffs , or so ive been told
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Post by alien »

check out pics of my zuk in "the ufo" link below - im SPOA on 31's running 15x7 speedys - i also go into the bigger 4x4's ruts and its not a problem... if i get stuck i also have a magical switch on the dash that gets me out... perhaps thats an option for you? by the time you spend the money on rims and having them rewelded etc you'd be half way to owning an airlocker anyway =)
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Post by Gwagensteve »

erm alien, I think he's already got lockwrongs.

ajsr - trying to get 10.5's onto 10" rims is a waste of time. you'd need 12.5 tyres. They'll burp air like mad and you'll be dragging the rims on everything.

let's say you currently have 0" backspacing. If you go it a 2" backspaced 10" rim, you'll be the same overall width as you are now, but the inside edge of the rim in now 2" closer in.

If you fit the same width of tyre you have now on the 10" rim, you haven't actually gained any footprint, so all you've done is pulled the outside edge of the tyre contact patch in 1" and the inside edge of the contact patch in towards the car 1".... so the centre of the tyre is 1" closer in to the car than it was before.

End result - the car actually behaves like its 2" narrower overall.

IMHO your tyres are too small for victoria. 31's are OK, but follow big tyred cars in big ruts and your going to struggle, as you've already noted.

I think you can go lower and narrower, or step up to a bigger tyre.

Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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Post by GRPABT1 »

Seriously I think you need bigger tyres to justify your SPOA and clear the ruts.
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Post by Pyrotech »

mrRocky wrote: however a suzuki with 33 muddies has about the same clearance as a pootrol with 36"s as they have big diffs , or so ive been told
My zook on 32s simex pedes, has the same pumpkin clearence as my 60 series on 37 MTRs. about 220mm i think
Zooks are for people that aren't afraid of angles and who have nothing to compensate for

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Post by Gwagensteve »

Yes, but we have ruts in Victoria.

When you're on Q78's with sierra diffs and still diffing out, what your clearance compares to on a cruiser isn't relevant - you just need lots of diff clearance.

ajsr - shaving your diffs is another option too, but I'd look at 34" LTB swampers, a bit more sensible backspacing, and loosing some height.

That's just me though.

Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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Post by ajsr »

Gwagensteve wrote:erm alien, I think he's already got lockwrongs.

ajsr - trying to get 10.5's onto 10" rims is a waste of time. you'd need 12.5 tyres. They'll burp air like mad and you'll be dragging the rims on everything.

let's say you currently have 0" backspacing. If you go it a 2" backspaced 10" rim, you'll be the same overall width as you are now, but the inside edge of the rim in now 2" closer in.

If you fit the same width of tyre you have now on the 10" rim, you haven't actually gained any footprint, so all you've done is pulled the outside edge of the tyre contact patch in 1" and the inside edge of the contact patch in towards the car 1".... so the centre of the tyre is 1" closer in to the car than it was before.

End result - the car actually behaves like its 2" narrower overall.

IMHO your tyres are too small for victoria. 31's are OK, but follow big tyred cars in big ruts and your going to struggle, as you've already noted.

I think you can go lower and narrower, or step up to a bigger tyre.

Steve.
yep steve i see where you are comming from.Im dragging my pumpkins everywhere in the deep ruts.Im thinking of going 34 - 35 simex JT's .Shaving diffs is something im trying to avoid as Ive smashed some good dents in them in the past id like to keep the housing clearance to the center.maybe I could go 10" rims on say 34-35's with a 12 -13 wide tyre??
PS. alien Im locked front and rear already im not getting stuck Im just scraping where i used to not scrape.
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Post by mrRocky »

dont expect your axles to stay intact with jt2's massive traction this is mine with no lockers and 33's. i snapped 3 axles in one go once i got my lockers inhttp://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t162/1mrRocky/?action=view&current=100_0652.flv
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Post by lockdup »

hey guys,

Im running SPOA with 34" TSL's and bodylift and rear air locker. i also have flipped rims with 2.5" backspacing so i also fit in the ruts. Almost everytime i go out i get hung up on the diffs. the locker does not help. the onlything i found is if the look to deep avoid them or check if the ground is soft. if so just punch it and scrape away.
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Post by ajsr »

mrRocky wrote:dont expect your axles to stay intact with jt2's massive traction this is mine with no lockers and 33's. i snapped 3 axles in one go once i got my lockers inhttp://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t162/1mrRocky/?action=view&current=100_0652.flv
been locked front and rear for a while now and no breakages ive got 6.5 tranfers in and new 32 mongrels at 8 psi trust me it gets plenty of traction. ive got birfield rings fitted and drive mostly clay and mud around my place.
85 high roof 1.3, 6.5 tc, air lockers,ruf and 34 swampers. yep its an ugly pos.
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Post by Gwagensteve »

ajsr,

if you go to 34/35 X 12.5's on 10's, to have "narrowness" on the inside edge you'd need to run 4"+ of backspacing. That's going to make for huge clearance problems with you chassis, shock mounts, inner guards, headlights, steering box, front body mounts..... you name it.

We played with running 4" backspaced 10's on the Greg's black car but gave up on the idea - they were so heavy and made the car stupid wide. Greg now runs 4.5" backspaced beadlocked 8's.

I ran Narrow track with 4.5" rims and 34" swampers and it was super capable in mud because of the narrowness but fell into the bank, a lot, so the super capability of the narrowness was only an advantage occasionally, when the car was level... when I had all the wheels on the ground, and when it wasn't jammed into the bank.

Whilst I can see the capability advantage of riding the ruts on the inside, I don't like the scary feeling of waiting for the car to fall in.

Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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