Ok before you all roll your eyes, here's the deal and yes i have searched this site but you get a lot of hits to this topic and i can't find the info i need.
I have a 1994 HZJ75 troopy and i plan to tow a camper trailer around aust at some point. With this in mind I've been modding the troopy to tourer spec. The problem i have is that when i started looking into more power (turbo) i have run into a massive amount of misinformation and hoodoo about the success of such a venture.
The car is a 1HZ with 400k of (as far as i know) standard klms on it. It still runs like a swiss watch doesn't use oil, blow (blue) smoke or have any rattles or ticks. The plan for turboing was Denco kit with exhaust and top mount air to air with thermo fan, running 8 or 9 psi with fuel pump mod (boost reference).
I was wondering if i could get the thoughts of some people on this site who have turboed 1HZ's about longevity, reliability and any precautions i should take if i choose to turbo (ie big ends ect)
And if anyone has fuel figures for a turbo 1HZ towing that'd be handy too
Cheers
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Little help please 1HZ Turbo?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Posts: 3725
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Location: Blue Mountains, or on a rig somewhere in bumf*ck idaho
i put a CT26 from a 1HDT onto mine sourcing all the turbo and manifold parts from a wreckers. Then put together all the plumbing myself. I had the fueling tuned by a professional running approximately 30 percent overfuelled and 14-15 pound of boost. I have yet to see exhaust temps of over 600c preturbo (My EGT is in the exhaust manifold).
Here is what i have noticed
1. Even before the fuel was turned up i noticed better power, so you don't need to wind up the fuel a whole lot. My motor is only 120 thousand kays old, and it's for a play truck so it's here for a good time not a long time.
2. If you can afford it, have a boost compensator fitted to your fuel pump. It's expensive but your motor and economy will suffer if you don't. Try as you might, you will always get black sooty exhaust off boost (wasted fuel) and dirtier oil. If you fit your own turbo then it might make it easier to afford the pump mods. It will be cheaper again if it time to get the pump reconditioned anyway (get it done at the same time.) If your pump/injectors is 400k old and never been reconditioned then it's probably a good idea
3. If you're really worried about the age of the motor, have it re-ringed and new big ends put in.
I'm not a diesel mech, just my observations.
Here is what i have noticed
1. Even before the fuel was turned up i noticed better power, so you don't need to wind up the fuel a whole lot. My motor is only 120 thousand kays old, and it's for a play truck so it's here for a good time not a long time.
2. If you can afford it, have a boost compensator fitted to your fuel pump. It's expensive but your motor and economy will suffer if you don't. Try as you might, you will always get black sooty exhaust off boost (wasted fuel) and dirtier oil. If you fit your own turbo then it might make it easier to afford the pump mods. It will be cheaper again if it time to get the pump reconditioned anyway (get it done at the same time.) If your pump/injectors is 400k old and never been reconditioned then it's probably a good idea
3. If you're really worried about the age of the motor, have it re-ringed and new big ends put in.
I'm not a diesel mech, just my observations.
http://www.populationparty.org.au/
biggest problem is oil.both temp and quality ,a turbo will play havoc on the engine oil if you dont look after it,mainly every 5thou change oil and filters use a high quality oil and fit a good oil cooler
the denco kit you mentioned is avery good kit
as already mentioned fit a boost compensator and all will be good
the biggest problem is when people put the foot down and dont back off
driving it like a petrol motor as they have the ability to pump out the same if not more power
the exhaust temps skyrocket and that is when the damage is done
highly reccomend fitting a pyro gauge just after the turbo
and go easy on the fuel adjustments most 1hz with good fuel systems only need about a 10 to 14% increase then drive in a controlled manner and you should see 600 to 700 thousand kays out of it
i have done a turbo fit on a 1hz that had 570000kms on it he then got 790000kms and rebuilt the motor
so it is all about how it is tunned and cared for [ie driven not flogged ]
the denco kit you mentioned is avery good kit
as already mentioned fit a boost compensator and all will be good
the biggest problem is when people put the foot down and dont back off
driving it like a petrol motor as they have the ability to pump out the same if not more power
the exhaust temps skyrocket and that is when the damage is done
highly reccomend fitting a pyro gauge just after the turbo
and go easy on the fuel adjustments most 1hz with good fuel systems only need about a 10 to 14% increase then drive in a controlled manner and you should see 600 to 700 thousand kays out of it
i have done a turbo fit on a 1hz that had 570000kms on it he then got 790000kms and rebuilt the motor
so it is all about how it is tunned and cared for [ie driven not flogged ]
FOR SALE hilux parts all models
have most parts available from early to late
call mick 0415156693
have most parts available from early to late
call mick 0415156693
Thanks heaps for your reply's so far guys i really appreciate them.
Turboed at 570k and still going at 790k thats what i like to hear
I don't have an issue with re-ringing, re bearing, boost compensating or even buying the kit from Denco (however i definately appreciate the tips
)
The thing that was pi$$ing me off was the doomsday "professionals" i was talking too telling me i could do all that and still have the motor blow up. I have a lot of experience with turbo petrols and i know that as long as you keep the boost down (with standard compression) give them the fuel they need and work within there factory rev range then everything is generally sweet.
So from your feedback so far on the shopping list is:
Denco kit
Compression Test
New bearings when i pop the sump off
Auto meter EGT and probe
Helium balloon to tie to my right boot
Turboed at 570k and still going at 790k thats what i like to hear
I don't have an issue with re-ringing, re bearing, boost compensating or even buying the kit from Denco (however i definately appreciate the tips
)The thing that was pi$$ing me off was the doomsday "professionals" i was talking too telling me i could do all that and still have the motor blow up. I have a lot of experience with turbo petrols and i know that as long as you keep the boost down (with standard compression) give them the fuel they need and work within there factory rev range then everything is generally sweet.
So from your feedback so far on the shopping list is:
Denco kit
Compression Test
New bearings when i pop the sump off
Auto meter EGT and probe
Helium balloon to tie to my right boot
My HZJ75 has 410000 on the clock and the turbo has been on it since just over the 100000 mark. I change the 10lts of oil every 7000km with a filter and its max boost through the revs is 10lbs cruising on 5-7lbs and light load off throttle 2lbs. Like you said still runs like clockwork and after 300000km of turbo work. It might speed up the wear process a little on the older engine but its only going to highlight an existing weakness anyway and I really dont think it will be much of an issue if you drive sensibly and look after it.
Fitted 1hdt turbo onto my HZJ75 ute '94 1hz at 280,000km. Got it from a wrecker complete with exh man crossover etc, put a kit thru the CT26 turbo.
Made 3" dump pipe & 3" exhaust.
Droped sump for oil return & changed big end bearings (fitted ACL bearings)
Fitted pyro pre turbo (exh man). Got it dyno'd to adj inj pump.
On dyno they had their own pyro fitted post tubo (had fitting on dump pipe)
They set up fuel so max post turbo temp was 540 C pre turbo pyro was reading 720 C. Runs 12 psi boost.
Have got a digital pyro & set alarm @ 720 C.
Live in the hills, drive it hard (back off when the 720 C alarm screams at me). Done 390,000km , uses about half litre of oil between oilchanges @ 5000km (blow by increased a bit after fitting turbo) & did a compression check recentley with all pots over 500 psi.
PYRO is a must.
Climbing hills, 4th gear all the time now, just keep revs obove 1800-2000 & it pull like sh-t.
Overtaking in 5th & towing is a joy.
Fuel economy is about the same as before the turbo. Getting 580 - 600 km out of a tank (85 liters)
JUST DO IT.
Made 3" dump pipe & 3" exhaust.
Droped sump for oil return & changed big end bearings (fitted ACL bearings)
Fitted pyro pre turbo (exh man). Got it dyno'd to adj inj pump.
On dyno they had their own pyro fitted post tubo (had fitting on dump pipe)
They set up fuel so max post turbo temp was 540 C pre turbo pyro was reading 720 C. Runs 12 psi boost.
Have got a digital pyro & set alarm @ 720 C.
Live in the hills, drive it hard (back off when the 720 C alarm screams at me). Done 390,000km , uses about half litre of oil between oilchanges @ 5000km (blow by increased a bit after fitting turbo) & did a compression check recentley with all pots over 500 psi.
PYRO is a must.
Climbing hills, 4th gear all the time now, just keep revs obove 1800-2000 & it pull like sh-t.
Overtaking in 5th & towing is a joy.
Fuel economy is about the same as before the turbo. Getting 580 - 600 km out of a tank (85 liters)
JUST DO IT.
HZJ75 Ute I/C TD
remember that diesel , more fuel more power more smoke it is a fine line between too much and just right
petrol motor lean it out and it dies with melted pistons and such
disel motor lean it out and it doesnt make any power wont hurt it at all
too much fuel hurts the motor
be aware that smoke doesnt mean power all the time
you should have a puff then clean burn all the way to governor
JUST DO IT YOU WILL LOVE IT
petrol motor lean it out and it dies with melted pistons and such
disel motor lean it out and it doesnt make any power wont hurt it at all
too much fuel hurts the motor
be aware that smoke doesnt mean power all the time
you should have a puff then clean burn all the way to governor
JUST DO IT YOU WILL LOVE IT
FOR SALE hilux parts all models
have most parts available from early to late
call mick 0415156693
have most parts available from early to late
call mick 0415156693
Posts: 3725
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Location: Blue Mountains, or on a rig somewhere in bumf*ck idaho
The only drama i have found is that it went from getting 8 km/litre to 6.5km/litre. it fairly sucks it now. i need to play with my fuelling and wind it back a little. But yes, it fairly hauls arse now.BeerCruiser wrote:Climbing hills, 4th gear all the time now, just keep revs obove 1800-2000 & it pull like sh-t.
Overtaking in 5th & towing is a joy.
Fuel economy is about the same as before the turbo. Getting 580 - 600 km out of a tank (85 liters)
JUST DO IT.
http://www.populationparty.org.au/
1993 1hz
300,000 kms with a turbo glide unit fitted. Cost $2300 to buy. Fitted myself. $500 for the 2.5 inch exhaust. Done and Dusted.
did my own fuel adjusting...ie. wound the pump screw till it idled too high and blew smoke. Backed it off until no smoke and 550 rpm idle.
I have no "boost compensator"....no "professional tuning"....no "pump mods"....and no " intercooler" saving me around the same money to buy a reconditioned motor if need be.
At 9 psi and with a good quality pyro fitted Pre-Turbo, the highest temp so far is 616 degrees up the clyde mountain towing a boat and all camping gear and I was flogging the crap out of the motor deliberatly as this was a test run after being off road for 12 months. .. most of the time its on 480 to 560 ish.... 616 was a peak temp and only lasted a few seconds at maximum revs ( foot to the floor)... around town and highways not towing sits on around 400 ish at most.
Fuel economy went from roughly 520 a tank to 620 kms a tank. Go Figure!
Heat melts / cracks pistons..Keep the heat down and how you gonna melt youre pistons? If mine are going to melt it should of done it by now.
Crack a piston..replace it..blow youre motor? replace it....were all here for a good time not a long time.
Tip... listen to people who have a 1hz and with a turbo on it.... NOT those people who "have a mate" or "had" a 1hz that blew up.
GO TURBO IT AND ENJOY
300,000 kms with a turbo glide unit fitted. Cost $2300 to buy. Fitted myself. $500 for the 2.5 inch exhaust. Done and Dusted.
did my own fuel adjusting...ie. wound the pump screw till it idled too high and blew smoke. Backed it off until no smoke and 550 rpm idle.
I have no "boost compensator"....no "professional tuning"....no "pump mods"....and no " intercooler" saving me around the same money to buy a reconditioned motor if need be.
At 9 psi and with a good quality pyro fitted Pre-Turbo, the highest temp so far is 616 degrees up the clyde mountain towing a boat and all camping gear and I was flogging the crap out of the motor deliberatly as this was a test run after being off road for 12 months. .. most of the time its on 480 to 560 ish.... 616 was a peak temp and only lasted a few seconds at maximum revs ( foot to the floor)... around town and highways not towing sits on around 400 ish at most.
Fuel economy went from roughly 520 a tank to 620 kms a tank. Go Figure!
Heat melts / cracks pistons..Keep the heat down and how you gonna melt youre pistons? If mine are going to melt it should of done it by now.
Crack a piston..replace it..blow youre motor? replace it....were all here for a good time not a long time.
Tip... listen to people who have a 1hz and with a turbo on it.... NOT those people who "have a mate" or "had" a 1hz that blew up.
GO TURBO IT AND ENJOY
1HZ turbos are great i had one but it blew up twice in 200000km both times the head cracked .egts were never over 600crozza wrote:1993 1hz
300,000 kms with a turbo glide unit fitted. Cost $2300 to buy. Fitted myself. $500 for the 2.5 inch exhaust. Done and Dusted.
did my own fuel adjusting...ie. wound the pump screw till it idled too high and blew smoke. Backed it off until no smoke and 550 rpm idle.
I have no "boost compensator"....no "professional tuning"....no "pump mods"....and no " intercooler" saving me around the same money to buy a reconditioned motor if need be.
At 9 psi and with a good quality pyro fitted Pre-Turbo, the highest temp so far is 616 degrees up the clyde mountain towing a boat and all camping gear and I was flogging the crap out of the motor deliberatly as this was a test run after being off road for 12 months. .. most of the time its on 480 to 560 ish.... 616 was a peak temp and only lasted a few seconds at maximum revs ( foot to the floor)... around town and highways not towing sits on around 400 ish at most.
Fuel economy went from roughly 520 a tank to 620 kms a tank. Go Figure!
Heat melts / cracks pistons..Keep the heat down and how you gonna melt youre pistons? If mine are going to melt it should of done it by now.
Crack a piston..replace it..blow youre motor? replace it....were all here for a good time not a long time.
Tip... listen to people who have a 1hz and with a turbo on it.... NOT those people who "have a mate" or "had" a 1hz that blew up.
GO TURBO IT AND ENJOY
fuel enconomy of about 600 km per tank
but each time the precom chambers cracked then cracking the head between the valves.next thing you know the over flow bottle is over flowing when going up hills
what you need to do is add up the the
cost of the turbo kit
+cost of the injectors and pump Ohaul
+boost compensator
+replacement of your precom chambers
+engine rering gaskets etc
if that = 2000 less than a 1HDT get a 1HDT
A 1HDT /1HDFT/1HDFTE will out proform out last and use less fuel than a 1HZ
I had a 1hz turbo (it died of course) then i fitted a 1Hdfte best thing ever
masive power increase over the 1HZ turbo bigger diference than putting the turbo on 1hz.
The 1HDFTE pulls at lower RPM and revs heaps more the oil is squeeky clean, no exhaust smoke
my 1HZ 600km per tank 1HDFTE 800km per tank while going faster turning 35s
Turboing a 1HZ is like smoking cigaretes it will get you in the end
but every body knows aunty so and so who lived till 90 smoked every day of their life but that is not normal.
the reason people who had a 1hz turbo are negative is because they have learned the hard way so just ask people who have not learnt yet if you want a positive out look
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
Thanks all for reply's so far
Crozza, rockcrawler z()ltan, beercruiser and v8zuki thanks for being so specific in your reply's and giving me usable comparable information.
Thrashlux you've argued in the negative and thats cool and thanks for your input but it would be handy if you could tell me:
Were your egt's measured preturbo or post turbo?
What style of driving where you doing? 200 000klms of cruising, towing or cruising/thrashing?
What boost you were running?
Were you intercooled?
I'm definately not only interested in positive feedback, i want to hear both sides positive and negative. I'm simply trying to ascertain if these engines destroy themselves with boost is there another factor ie too much boost, backyard tuning, driven like its stolen ect.
I just find it hard to believe that a bunch of companies make kits for an engine destined to expire once the kit is fitted.
Oh and for the record the majority of negative feedback i have recieved has been from places with "pty ltd" or similar after there name and they've all suggested a better solution thats three times as expensive. I have three options freshen the motor and turbo, turbo or do nothing.
Cheers
Thrashlux you've argued in the negative and thats cool and thanks for your input but it would be handy if you could tell me:
Were your egt's measured preturbo or post turbo?
What style of driving where you doing? 200 000klms of cruising, towing or cruising/thrashing?
What boost you were running?
Were you intercooled?
I'm definately not only interested in positive feedback, i want to hear both sides positive and negative. I'm simply trying to ascertain if these engines destroy themselves with boost is there another factor ie too much boost, backyard tuning, driven like its stolen ect.
I just find it hard to believe that a bunch of companies make kits for an engine destined to expire once the kit is fitted.
Oh and for the record the majority of negative feedback i have recieved has been from places with "pty ltd" or similar after there name and they've all suggested a better solution thats three times as expensive. I have three options freshen the motor and turbo, turbo or do nothing.
Cheers
Mine is a 1HX GXL 100 Auto w/ AXT kit.
Bout the car at 200K, now has 250K on it. Was turbo'd by original owner at 4000KM, I am 3rd owner.
I use it for everything, including towing a large heavy (1t empty) dual axle trailer.
www.neuralfibre.com/paul - search EGT - has some details.
I have an ongoing overheating problem I have been unable to rectify, again lots of theories. I'm sure the turbo contributes, but don't beleive it is the problem as such. I haven't spent that much money trying to fix it - a new radiator would prob help.
It runs 9.5 psi, no intercooler (have on in shed - later project)
EGT maxes at 750c pre, at redline.
Cruise - 450c
Cruise w/ trailer / roof racks / 100km/hr - 550c
Hill - 600c
Overtake - 550 - 650c
Range - 600 - 650c
Range + Flog piss out of it - (WOT to redline) - 710c then flare to 750 over 4000RPM
Fueling adjust can change all the above.
I have no aneroid fitted.
Paul
Bout the car at 200K, now has 250K on it. Was turbo'd by original owner at 4000KM, I am 3rd owner.
I use it for everything, including towing a large heavy (1t empty) dual axle trailer.
www.neuralfibre.com/paul - search EGT - has some details.
I have an ongoing overheating problem I have been unable to rectify, again lots of theories. I'm sure the turbo contributes, but don't beleive it is the problem as such. I haven't spent that much money trying to fix it - a new radiator would prob help.
It runs 9.5 psi, no intercooler (have on in shed - later project)
EGT maxes at 750c pre, at redline.
Cruise - 450c
Cruise w/ trailer / roof racks / 100km/hr - 550c
Hill - 600c
Overtake - 550 - 650c
Range - 600 - 650c
Range + Flog piss out of it - (WOT to redline) - 710c then flare to 750 over 4000RPM
Fueling adjust can change all the above.
I have no aneroid fitted.
Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Toyota never ment the 1HZ to have turbo thats why the brought out the 1HDT it has different pistons and head design (direct injection) to withstand the diffent charicteristics of turbo charging (no precom chamber to crack)
The egt's were mesured post turbo normally were around the 350-400 but on a realy steep hill they could reach 500-550 when pushed hard
The first engine had no boost compensator until it died
it had 350000 on it 150 with the turbo the previous owner had fitted it at 200 mark i bought it with 250km on it
the kit was a safari no intercooler at the start
i was running about 10lb at full power
I then got a rebuilt engine fitted it to the car got the pump done with boost compensator and piro this is when i got 600km per tank
this engine did 100000 before the head cracked
the driving style was a mixture of holiday cruising driven by me 30%
around town by my wife (she drives like a grandma)70% the car was rarely thrashed off road (thats what my ute is for)
used to tow some times only a box trailer not for any great distance
the boost compensator helped for fuel economy, soot and keeping the oil cleaner
there is nothing wrong with a 1hz turbo it is just that it pales in comparison to a factory turbo motor for power, fuel enconomy,longevityand oil cleanliness
Arb stopped selling the safari turbos due to 1HZ's blowing up
I think if you have an old 1hz that is running fine the best option is to sell it and buy a factory turbo motor
there is not much in it in the money stakes if you add it up
plus you can floor them up a hill with no fear
so you can see for your self maybe you should try and drive a few diferent trucks one with a 1HZ turbo one with a 1HDT one with a 1HDFT and one with a 1HDFTE each one is a step above the last for power, fuel economy, smoothnees torque band width and revability.
go to some car yards and go shoping for your engine
thats what i did I ended up with a 1HDFTE from a 100series with large intercooler and 3 inch in my 80series manual it is an absolute weapon for touring towing and fuel economy
I luv over taking nissan patrols not towing with a car trailer on the back of my truck while going up mountain ranges they probaly think it is a petrol because there is no soot coming out the back
trust me i have learnt which is the best way to go there are so many reasons
cheers
The egt's were mesured post turbo normally were around the 350-400 but on a realy steep hill they could reach 500-550 when pushed hard
The first engine had no boost compensator until it died
it had 350000 on it 150 with the turbo the previous owner had fitted it at 200 mark i bought it with 250km on it
the kit was a safari no intercooler at the start
i was running about 10lb at full power
I then got a rebuilt engine fitted it to the car got the pump done with boost compensator and piro this is when i got 600km per tank
this engine did 100000 before the head cracked
the driving style was a mixture of holiday cruising driven by me 30%
around town by my wife (she drives like a grandma)70% the car was rarely thrashed off road (thats what my ute is for)
used to tow some times only a box trailer not for any great distance
the boost compensator helped for fuel economy, soot and keeping the oil cleaner
there is nothing wrong with a 1hz turbo it is just that it pales in comparison to a factory turbo motor for power, fuel enconomy,longevityand oil cleanliness
Arb stopped selling the safari turbos due to 1HZ's blowing up
I think if you have an old 1hz that is running fine the best option is to sell it and buy a factory turbo motor
there is not much in it in the money stakes if you add it up
plus you can floor them up a hill with no fear
so you can see for your self maybe you should try and drive a few diferent trucks one with a 1HZ turbo one with a 1HDT one with a 1HDFT and one with a 1HDFTE each one is a step above the last for power, fuel economy, smoothnees torque band width and revability.
go to some car yards and go shoping for your engine
thats what i did I ended up with a 1HDFTE from a 100series with large intercooler and 3 inch in my 80series manual it is an absolute weapon for touring towing and fuel economy
I luv over taking nissan patrols not towing with a car trailer on the back of my truck while going up mountain ranges they probaly think it is a petrol because there is no soot coming out the back
trust me i have learnt which is the best way to go there are so many reasons
cheers
Last edited by thrashlux on Sat May 08, 2010 2:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
Sounds the same as what my second engine was doing for the last year of it's lifeme3@neuralfibre.com wrote:
I have an ongoing overheating problem I have been unable to rectify, again lots of theories. I'm sure the turbo contributes, but don't beleive it is the problem as such. I haven't spent that much money trying to fix it - a new radiator would prob help.
Paul
it was fine until you load it up with gear then drive up a long steep hill
i tried everything new radiator new fan new thermostat
I ended up getting a leak down test c/o this is where you remove the injector and put in a fitting for compressed air pressurise each of the cylinders one at a time on number 4 or 5 i think it was, there were bubbles starting to come from the radiator cap (cracked head due to precom chambers)
so what would happen is under high engine loads the water jacket in the top of the head would fill with combustion gases displacing the water and causing it to overheat due to the loss of cooling
around town no problem no water in oil nor did it even use water because when the load was gone the engine used to suck the water back into the engine from the over flow when it cooled down
it was hard to work out car still ran fine otherwise
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
l have a HZJ105 1HZ with DTS turbo, it's been a great car for us.
We are currently 3/4 way around a trip of oz.
Towing a caravan with fully loaded cruiser we get 17l to 20l / 100kms.
Car is not overpowerful but a hell of a lot better than a standard 1HZ, the trip would be have been painful without the turbo.
We had a few times when the temp gauge creap up, so did all the cooling system checks, thermostat, clutch fan etc.
Fitting pyro, auto temp gauges this week [ do this straight away if you go turbo ]
l'm thinking the auto fluid may be causing the engine temp to climb?
If i was towing anything bigger than what i have now i would spend the money and go factory turbo, more power, torque but you get the electrics aswell.
cheers
Matt
We are currently 3/4 way around a trip of oz.
Towing a caravan with fully loaded cruiser we get 17l to 20l / 100kms.
Car is not overpowerful but a hell of a lot better than a standard 1HZ, the trip would be have been painful without the turbo.
We had a few times when the temp gauge creap up, so did all the cooling system checks, thermostat, clutch fan etc.
Fitting pyro, auto temp gauges this week [ do this straight away if you go turbo ]
l'm thinking the auto fluid may be causing the engine temp to climb?
If i was towing anything bigger than what i have now i would spend the money and go factory turbo, more power, torque but you get the electrics aswell.
cheers
Matt
OK - now you have my attention.thrashlux wrote:Sounds the same as what my second engine was doing for the last year of it's lifeme3@neuralfibre.com wrote:
I have an ongoing overheating problem I have been unable to rectify, again lots of theories. I'm sure the turbo contributes, but don't beleive it is the problem as such. I haven't spent that much money trying to fix it - a new radiator would prob help.
Paul
it was fine until you load it up with gear then drive up a long steep hill
i tried everything new radiator new fan new thermostat
I ended up getting a leak down test c/o this is where you remove the injector and put in a fitting for compressed air pressurise each of the cylinders one at a time on number 4 or 5 i think it was, there were bubbles starting to come from the radiator cap (cracked head due to precom chambers)
so what would happen is under high engine loads the water jacket in the top of the head would fill with combustion gases displacing the water and causing it to overheat due to the loss of cooling
around town no problem no water in oil nor did it even use water because when the load was gone the engine used to suck the water back into the engine from the over flow when it cooled down
it was hard to work out car still ran fine otherwise
Any tips on doing this myself?
120psi?
Anyone have an adapter?
Thanx
Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
I did this Paul, but instead of using a fitting in the injector, I just made a fitting with an old glow plug and welded an airline fitting onto it. Its cheaper, cleaner and easier to remove than an injector. So why go down the hard path of removing the injector lines etc. Plus I didnt need to take the intake manifold off either, which I think you would have to, to get onto all the injectors.me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:OK - now you have my attention.thrashlux wrote:Sounds the same as what my second engine was doing for the last year of it's lifeme3@neuralfibre.com wrote:
I have an ongoing overheating problem I have been unable to rectify, again lots of theories. I'm sure the turbo contributes, but don't beleive it is the problem as such. I haven't spent that much money trying to fix it - a new radiator would prob help.
Paul
it was fine until you load it up with gear then drive up a long steep hill
i tried everything new radiator new fan new thermostat
I ended up getting a leak down test c/o this is where you remove the injector and put in a fitting for compressed air pressurise each of the cylinders one at a time on number 4 or 5 i think it was, there were bubbles starting to come from the radiator cap (cracked head due to precom chambers)
so what would happen is under high engine loads the water jacket in the top of the head would fill with combustion gases displacing the water and causing it to overheat due to the loss of cooling
around town no problem no water in oil nor did it even use water because when the load was gone the engine used to suck the water back into the engine from the over flow when it cooled down
it was hard to work out car still ran fine otherwise
Any tips on doing this myself?
120psi?
Anyone have an adapter?
Thanx
Paul
hands and mums dont count!!!
Either glow plug or injector which ever is easier i allready had an old injector from my last blown 1hz so i used the end that screws into the head welded a piece of pipe to it then a ball valve with a std air fitting
did not have to remove the manifold just the pipes on the back of the injector
You do have to remove the cross over pipe though (from the turbo to inlet)
Another tip make sure each piston is at bottom dead center while carring out the check or you will fet the crap scared out of you
cheers
jonathan
did not have to remove the manifold just the pipes on the back of the injector
You do have to remove the cross over pipe though (from the turbo to inlet)
Another tip make sure each piston is at bottom dead center while carring out the check or you will fet the crap scared out of you
cheers
jonathan
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
I absolutly agree a 1hdt, 1hdft, 1hdfte is a far better option. BUT how much you wana spend?
The cheapest 1hdt ive seen is $7500 + freight, time and any extras. $$$$
I think the 1hdfte float around $16000 if you can get one, then u got the cost of harnesses and any other hidden goodies. $$$$
Not everyone can fork out huge sums of money for another classier motor, so they look for the cheaper option, hence the turbo.
My setup was $3000 bucks tops. thats less than half the cost of new 1hdt plus extras. What if I was to fit a $7500 motor and it shite itself in some way.
I would rather blow up my original motor and then fit another $3500 reco 1hz. Turbo, pump, injectors fit straight back on.
If I took the 1hdfte option I would sell my truck and buy a HDJ 79....but theres 40 odd grand.....
TRUE STORY...mate has a hzj75 same as mine, wanted more power so
he put in a 1hdt....1 yr later dropped the arse out of it......replaced that with a brand new 1hdfte motor thinking he was now in the clear. 3 mnths later he drove down to Cooma and spat a bottom radiator hose and didnt see the temp gauge climb...end of that motor ..he's now on his 2nd 1hdfte
motor or engine number 4..1hz,1hdt, 1hdfte x 2.
With the money he has spent on that truck he could have bought my truck 5 times over.
The cheapest 1hdt ive seen is $7500 + freight, time and any extras. $$$$
I think the 1hdfte float around $16000 if you can get one, then u got the cost of harnesses and any other hidden goodies. $$$$
Not everyone can fork out huge sums of money for another classier motor, so they look for the cheaper option, hence the turbo.
My setup was $3000 bucks tops. thats less than half the cost of new 1hdt plus extras. What if I was to fit a $7500 motor and it shite itself in some way.
I would rather blow up my original motor and then fit another $3500 reco 1hz. Turbo, pump, injectors fit straight back on.
If I took the 1hdfte option I would sell my truck and buy a HDJ 79....but theres 40 odd grand.....
TRUE STORY...mate has a hzj75 same as mine, wanted more power so
he put in a 1hdt....1 yr later dropped the arse out of it......replaced that with a brand new 1hdfte motor thinking he was now in the clear. 3 mnths later he drove down to Cooma and spat a bottom radiator hose and didnt see the temp gauge climb...end of that motor ..he's now on his 2nd 1hdfte
motor or engine number 4..1hz,1hdt, 1hdfte x 2.
With the money he has spent on that truck he could have bought my truck 5 times over.
These are the prices that i am used to dealing with in the brisbane area
1HDT $6500-$7500
1HDFT $8500-$11000
1HDFTE 79 series including loom (replace 75 loom) $8500-$10000
1HDFTE 100 series including loom for 100 series $9500 - $11500
to turbo and ohaul 1HZ
turbo kit $2500-$3500
pump and injectors $1200
aneroid $600
rebuild parts $1500(rings etc)
then if you sell your 1HZ before blowing it up $1500
that adds up to (with the cheapest turbo kit)
$7300
pretty damb close to going and buying a 1HDT
1HDT $6500-$7500
1HDFT $8500-$11000
1HDFTE 79 series including loom (replace 75 loom) $8500-$10000
1HDFTE 100 series including loom for 100 series $9500 - $11500
to turbo and ohaul 1HZ
turbo kit $2500-$3500
pump and injectors $1200
aneroid $600
rebuild parts $1500(rings etc)
then if you sell your 1HZ before blowing it up $1500
that adds up to (with the cheapest turbo kit)
$7300
pretty damb close to going and buying a 1HDT
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
Whilst I want the 1HDFTE - that's not quite apples with apples.thrashlux wrote:These are the prices that i am used to dealing with in the brisbane area
1HDT $6500-$7500
1HDFT $8500-$11000
1HDFTE 79 series including loom (replace 75 loom) $8500-$10000
1HDFTE 100 series including loom for 100 series $9500 - $11500
to turbo and ohaul 1HZ
turbo kit $2500-$3500
pump and injectors $1200
aneroid $600
rebuild parts $1500(rings etc)
then if you sell your 1HZ before blowing it up $1500
that adds up to (with the cheapest turbo kit)
$7300
pretty damb close to going and buying a 1HDT
:D
You don't need to do pump / injectors / aneroid / rebuild parts to turbo it.
And the prices for the DI motors are all 2nd hand from wrecks, so they may need injectors / pumps too to be optimal.
A mate has a GXL 100. Maybe I'll steal the motor and he can claim it on insurance. Say it fell out somewhere or something.
Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
1HZ Turbo
Not certain if this helps...
I have a 1994 HZJ80, 310 000 kms turbo fitted by previous owner (doggy if the rest of his work is to be taken as an example) Has a Turbo Glide pipe on it, so may be a Turbo Glide Turbo, possibly off a Nissan, not a std fitment for a Toyota according to Beaudesert exhausts who fitted a 3 inch exhaust for me. I guess the turbo has probably done 40 000 kms plus.
When I got the car it was gutless, had the car tuned (inc new injectors) and zoom, it felt like someone turned the turbo on. Mind you it runs 35s and 6 inch lift, etc, etc.
So my recommendations are get it tuned properly (may not need the boost compensator then) mind does not and only smokes bad when well up in the revs (prob close to red line) no exhaust temp gauge or tacho. The other thing that help was the 3inch mandral exhaust.
Father has a HZJ78? with A/M Turbo. Rebuilt motor twice but think there were serious issues with the motor that may not be Turbo related (someone may have but petrol in the motor, or overheated it a few times) last rebuild I believe he but in the turbo pistons, rods, pins, etc). After all this it would have been cheaper to pick up either a Turbo model from either auction or wrecker with all fittings, wiring, etc.
This is just my experience and if I had a non turbo cruiser I would just find a donor vehicle from a wrecker or auction and do an engine transplant and return or sell what is left over..... My 5c
I have a 1994 HZJ80, 310 000 kms turbo fitted by previous owner (doggy if the rest of his work is to be taken as an example) Has a Turbo Glide pipe on it, so may be a Turbo Glide Turbo, possibly off a Nissan, not a std fitment for a Toyota according to Beaudesert exhausts who fitted a 3 inch exhaust for me. I guess the turbo has probably done 40 000 kms plus.
When I got the car it was gutless, had the car tuned (inc new injectors) and zoom, it felt like someone turned the turbo on. Mind you it runs 35s and 6 inch lift, etc, etc.
So my recommendations are get it tuned properly (may not need the boost compensator then) mind does not and only smokes bad when well up in the revs (prob close to red line) no exhaust temp gauge or tacho. The other thing that help was the 3inch mandral exhaust.
Father has a HZJ78? with A/M Turbo. Rebuilt motor twice but think there were serious issues with the motor that may not be Turbo related (someone may have but petrol in the motor, or overheated it a few times) last rebuild I believe he but in the turbo pistons, rods, pins, etc). After all this it would have been cheaper to pick up either a Turbo model from either auction or wrecker with all fittings, wiring, etc.
This is just my experience and if I had a non turbo cruiser I would just find a donor vehicle from a wrecker or auction and do an engine transplant and return or sell what is left over..... My 5c
You are corect in saying that you do not have to do a pump or those other things but that is what ZC 351 is looking at if you read back earlierme3@neuralfibre.com wrote:Whilst I want the 1HDFTE - that's not quite apples with apples.thrashlux wrote:These are the prices that i am used to dealing with in the brisbane area
1HDT $6500-$7500
1HDFT $8500-$11000
1HDFTE 79 series including loom (replace 75 loom) $8500-$10000
1HDFTE 100 series including loom for 100 series $9500 - $11500
to turbo and ohaul 1HZ
turbo kit $2500-$3500
pump and injectors $1200
aneroid $600
rebuild parts $1500(rings etc)
then if you sell your 1HZ before blowing it up $1500
that adds up to (with the cheapest turbo kit)
$7300
pretty damb close to going and buying a 1HDT
You don't need to do pump / injectors / aneroid / rebuild parts to turbo it.
And the prices for the DI motors are all 2nd hand from wrecks, so they may need injectors / pumps too to be optimal.
A mate has a GXL 100. Maybe I'll steal the motor and he can claim it on insurance. Say it fell out somewhere or something.
Paul
so i was taking his case into example
other option is to fitt your 1hz to your mates car then burn it it would be pretty hard to tell the diference once all the aluminium and plastic is burnt away
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
I think at the end of the day, it all comes down to how healthy youre motor was to begin with, how you drove it, did you regulary service it and
how much boost you were running.
seems some people get 100k out of a turbo 1hz and some 400k.
Pretty much any motor wether diesel or petrol with turbos allways seem to blow up at some point.
Mine, so far so good.
If I wanted massive power myself , Id throw in a gen 3 I think.
Time will tell
crozz
how much boost you were running.
seems some people get 100k out of a turbo 1hz and some 400k.
Pretty much any motor wether diesel or petrol with turbos allways seem to blow up at some point.
Mine, so far so good.
If I wanted massive power myself , Id throw in a gen 3 I think.
Time will tell
crozz
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