Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Silly question, but have you released the handbrake?
You might also have a lip on the drum, preventing it from coming off. Does it have adjusters on the backing plate?
2000 SR-5 turbo diesel, dual airlockers, bit of a lift, some 15x8 sunnies, 32" bighorns, a few spotties, and a wireless, and a kiddie seat in the back.
Have a look at the drums. There are two holes to screw a bolt into, which prises the drum off. Can't remember the size of bolt, but I keep a couple of spares in the toolbox. IIRC, it's a fairly common bolt size.
Simply screw them in a bit at a time on each side and watch the drum pop off.
Tzi wrote:ok yep... I THINK there is a thread there
time to go on a bolt finding mission while the WD40 does its thing
Definitely thread there.
And when you pull the whole lot apart, use a decent set of sidecutters to pull the springs. You can then do each side in 10 minutes vs. up to an hour, skun knuckles and a heap of swearing
AJFeroza wrote:
And when you pull the whole lot apart, use a decent set of sidecutters to pull the springs. You can then do each side in 10 minutes vs. up to an hour, skun knuckles and a heap of swearing
just for clarification.... what do u do with the side cutters? use them to turn that sproket like bit or ?
Belt the face of the drum a number of times with a hammer, it loosens any rust holding the drum to the axle face.
The bolts are 14mm. Use 2 of them, and screw them in evenly, a couple of turns each.
Backing off the adjusters can be difficult, because they have one way cams, and the self adjuster holds against the cams. You have to get a small pointer to push the adjuster away from the cam, then use a screwdriver to try to back the cam off.
You can use 2 big flat bladed screwdrivers to prise the drums off, just be careful you dont bend the backing plates.
I personally have removed the automatic adjuster mechanism. Its more problematic than anything else. I now adjust them by hand.
When you have them apart, lube EVERYTHING, the adjuster threads, and where the U shaped bits are that sit into the brake shoes.
well.. I ended up going to see thee dude at the brake place and asking him for bolts to fit. The threads have been stripped
his technique would be to use the oxy and heat the drum up around the center... then hit it with a hammer to 'spring' it off.
I'll try that next week with the map gas torch as long as there is no fire bans
I'd be happy to remove the drums every time I get em wet.. but damn.. theyre not easy!!!
------------------------------------
Tzi -- beware of cheap imitations
Tzi wrote:well.. I ended up going to see thee dude at the brake place and asking him for bolts to fit. The threads have been stripped
his technique would be to use the oxy and heat the drum up around the center... then hit it with a hammer to 'spring' it off.
I'll try that next week with the map gas torch as long as there is no fire bans
I'd be happy to remove the drums every time I get em wet.. but damn.. theyre not easy!!!
if you dont want to use heat try BundyRumandCoke's idea and slip the tips of a couple of large flat bladed screwdrivers 180 deg apart from each other in against the rear plate or axle housing and try and leaver against the drum, easier if someone else can do that while you tap tap tap tap *moderatly hard* with the hammer
word of caution dont hit the drum too hard with the hammer, the drums are cast and can crack/shatter if struck too hard. also be carefull about putting *too* much heat into the center of the axle or you will be looking at new wheel bearings as well.. just needs to be hot touch to touch dont heat it till it's glowing