water leak back of 3.5l big miss now

[zook4fun]

i have a water leak coming from the back of my engine. i was hoping it was the heater lines and running down the block but no luck.

my question is does the 3.5l have any welsh plugs in the back of the engine? (it looks to be coming from in side the bell housing) or is it something else?

could i just use some chemi weld to seal it up? i have never used it before but don't really want to pull the engine out as i'm moving this weekend.

any tips would be good

[lokka]

Yep theres welch plugs in the back of the block id use some cargo brand sealup ya can get it from super cheap works beta than cemi weld tho ya have to follow the instructions right for it to work proper and it will fix it

[Hobie18]

from my rangie experience there are 2 reasons that cause them to leak, 1) they have rusted through - possibly due to incorrect coolant used or 2) you have a headgasket issue that has pressurised the cooling system and is forcing the welsch plugs out. There are 2 at the back of the motor that if require replacing either the engine or gearbox will need to come out. But check that your headgasket is not leaking by getting the system checked prior to pulling the gearbox and replacing them that way Otherwise you've just wasted that money

[zook4fun]

Yep theres welch plugs in the back of the block id use some cargo brand sealup ya can get it from super cheap works beta than cemi weld tho ya have to follow the instructions right for it to work proper and it will fix it

thanks i'll give this a go before i worry about pulling the engine.

it looks like the other welch plugs have been replaced so my guess is they didn't the rear ones

[Loanrangie]

And if it is the welch plugs, remove the rad and pull the engine forward its way easier then dropping the g/box and transfer.

[lokka]

And if it is the welch plugs, remove the rad and pull the engine forward its way easier then dropping the g/box and transfer.

Sheet yeah engin out is way easier than droping the box

[zook4fun]

did the chemi weld thing today and it has stopped the leak but don't know for how long.

i'll pull the engine forward after the move. hopefully it holds for that long

[wolfengo]

Hey zook4fun

I had the same problem i found it was the headgaskets one had corroded through. And to replace head gaskets on these is real easy. Replace them first before doin anythin else cost ya bout 200-300 if you do it urself better than pullin the whole engine forward.

[zook4fun]

well now the car has i big miss under load. i changed the plugs, points, set the timing again and had a play with the mixture, plugs were black as!

i haven't had this car long, i'm trying to get it sorted for rego. never got to drive it before today. should i just pull out the dizzy and replace it with the elec one i have and hope? al so how do i tell what timing to set the engine at? in the manual i have its got 3 different settings for the 3.5. 7 btdc 3 btdc and 5 atdc

no bubbles in the coolent, milky oil. or to much pressure in the system so don't think its a head gasket.

any one got any other ideas?

[Loanrangie]

When 3.5's blow head gaskets they dont always leak coolant into the cylinders, when mine went it just blew in between 6/8 and made this T T T T T sound as the gases hit the valley cover, gaskets are less than $75 and will only take a couple of hours to replace.

[lokka]

Id start by setting it to TDC on NO1 then change the dizzy for the elec job ditch the points its the best ting you will ever do for it set up the elec right get the pos of the dizzy right then set the timing at about 5 BTDC then get it to run you may need to adjust the timing a tad either way i havent got my manual handy for exact spec for the elec dizzy ....

The miss you have could be because of the carbs check to see if the slides are lifting right in the carb throats when you rev it the thing has twin carbs dosent it ???

They can be a bugger to get right but once set right and in good order they work good tho i like hollys

[nottie]

You said that you have only recently got the vehicle so on the top bell of the carbs (if they are the factory twins) there is a black screw cap. Undo it and make shore the slide is oiled up.
Dont know what is the correct product to use but i used to fill mine with tranny oil.

[zook4fun]

yes it is the factory twin carbys and i have put some oil in the top of the carbys. stoich is about 14.2 at idle so they are pretty close to being right.

knowing my luck it is the head gaskets as loanrangie said. it does have a bit of noise but i thought i was just the engine has some k's on it.

i'll swap the dizzy over when i'm home tomorrow and hopefully it fixes it if not i'll take the heads off.

any one know of a good place to get a rebuild kit for the oil pump

thanks for the help