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Garret BB centre into std GU snail...

General Tech Talk

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Garret BB centre into std GU snail...

Post by benhl »

HI Guys - been reading a whole lot about full BB turbos, turbo kits etc but have a question that doesn't seem to be covered very much.

I have a GU4.2TD and am having to rebuild the turbo due to oil getting into it (long story - but probelm now fixed) regardless, the options are rebuild the standard bush turbo or get the centre replaced with a Garrett BB unit. This is obviously the prefered oiption but i'm finding the quote of $2950 for supply only of the BB centre and compressor wheels a little steep or is this the going price? It takes the job to just shy of $4k :shock: including machining of the existing housings etc to get max performance and running of neew oil/water feeds & tune.

This is through a reputable turbo and tune shop that has done excelklent work on my truck (and others) before.... any advice or info would be much appreciated. Cheers
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Post by A.J. »

That sounds a bit steep...... For that money you could just ditch the standard turbo and just buy a brand new replacement garrett BB.

Heck, for that money you could even ditch the manifold too and get a new one that fits an even better turbo.

I wouldn't spend close to 4g to rebuild/mod a standard turbo.

That's just my opinion but afaik there are straight replacement after market turbos out there for far less. Schwitzer being one of them I think.
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Post by nastytroll »

contact dztech about his bolt on upgrade kit that bogged is testing.

Standard manifold is T3 flange and should fit a good range of turbo's. Maybe a GT2860RS .86 380hp rear or GT2876R .86 440hp rear. The standard gu turbo runs a .65 rear and if spending big $ get a better setup.

Why spend $4k on a standard size BB with only small power available when a new BB with higher outputs are available complete cheaper. Or get a T3T4 for around $1000

Talk to PGS or dztech to match a turbo to your pump specs or to look for upgrades.
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Post by KiwiBacon »

nastytroll wrote:contact dztech about his bolt on upgrade kit that bogged is testing.

Standard manifold is T3 flange and should fit a good range of turbo's. Maybe a GT2860RS .86 380hp rear or GT2876R .86 440hp rear. The standard gu turbo runs a .65 rear and if spending big $ get a better setup.

Why spend $4k on a standard size BB with only small power available when a new BB with higher outputs are available complete cheaper. Or get a T3T4 for around $1000

Talk to PGS or dztech to match a turbo to your pump specs or to look for upgrades.
Bigger turbos aren't all rosey on a diesel, they don't start working until higher rpm which can cause more frustration than the joy the extra top end power gives you.

But yes get another quote, $3k for a turbo core sounds a little excessive.
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Post by sootygu »

Very expensive.

I looked at this option 2 years ago and at that stage I was quoted $1600 for a BB center in the orginal housings.

That was through JPC in Melboune, I know you are not in Vic but could be worth a phone call to compare. If cheaper you could always freight the turbo there and back.
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Post by chimpboy »

Is it possible it's a "we don't really want the job that much" price?
This is not legal advice.
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Post by 80diesel4play »

chimpboy wrote:Is it possible it's a "we don't really want the job that much" price?
Bingo... :D

Ring Rotormaster - they do a complete BB turbo that works well for @$2K and they'll ship it. Then use the other $2K on fitting/ plumbing and dyno time...

I know of one place that has done the conversion you are looking at and the end results were nice but pricey...
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Post by Dirty »

behhl,

Get in contact with Andy at dzltec, he quoted me less than that for his BB kit which included a new turbo and all the pipes & adapters to mount it up.

- David.
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Post by nastytroll »

KiwiBacon wrote:
nastytroll wrote:contact dztech about his bolt on upgrade kit that bogged is testing.

Standard manifold is T3 flange and should fit a good range of turbo's. Maybe a GT2860RS .86 380hp rear or GT2876R .86 440hp rear. The standard gu turbo runs a .65 rear and if spending big $ get a better setup.

Why spend $4k on a standard size BB with only small power available when a new BB with higher outputs are available complete cheaper. Or get a T3T4 for around $1000

Talk to PGS or dztech to match a turbo to your pump specs or to look for upgrades.
Bigger turbos aren't all rosey on a diesel, they don't start working until higher rpm which can cause more frustration than the joy the extra top end power gives you.

But yes get another quote, $3k for a turbo core sounds a little excessive.
Agree 100% that is why you get the turbo to suit the injector pump. It is already a turbo GU so will have an 11mm pump with compinsator. The GT2860R or RS comes in various sizes from 280hp - 380hp rating, so will suit the pump.

The .65 exhaust causes heat build up and the standard turbo is too small for the motor to start with. If you get your turbo spec'ed to suit the pump all will be fine.

The BB turbo spooles faster and will produce booste earlier then a bushed turbo, so effectively a bigger BB turbo can be used without loosing bottum end responce, but will improove top end and EGT considerabley.

Does anybody have the HP rating of the standard GU HT18?
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Post by KiwiBacon »

"hp" ratings don't apply to diesels. The petrol "hp" rating is roughly the maximum lb/min airflow multiplied by 10. A turbo capable of 25 lb/min is given the "250hp" tag.
Because they neglect to mention what pressure ratio is needed to deliver that airflow, your 250hp turbo may be having it's neck wrung at 200hp on some engines.

Bottom line, you need a turbo compressor map and a lot of maths.
From there if you can find a turbine map they help too.

I'm not a believer in the "small turbo = too much heat" theory. I run a T25 (that's a 250hp turbo for the ricers out there) and when my exhaust temps pass 600C my drive pressure drops below my boost pressure.
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Post by benhl »

Thanks All - it is becoming a little clearer now after to speaking to a number of recomended guys off the forum here... THANKS!

The price of $2950 does also include sending away for machining both sides of the existing housings for hi-flow & lower Exhaust temps, which i've been told probablly also includes spray welding (whatever that is i don't know except that it's apparently expensive). Then the extra cost is to cover adaptor plates to manifold/exhaust, running of water and oil feed lines, labour (of course) and a dyno tune.

THat is sounding a little closer to the mark and after re-speaking with the mechanic i now understand a whole lot clearer where the $$ is alloctaed and it has eased my concerns.

Just thought i'd post it up FYI ;)
GU 4.2 TD Garrett BB Hi-flow, M8274 + Bells & Whistles with plenty of fruit still on the list!
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Post by bogged »

how much was the machining of the housing

if your after a cheap option I have my stock GU turbo here :)
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Post by KiwiBacon »

benhl wrote:Thanks All - it is becoming a little clearer now after to speaking to a number of recomended guys off the forum here... THANKS!

The price of $2950 does also include sending away for machining both sides of the existing housings for hi-flow & lower Exhaust temps, which i've been told probablly also includes spray welding (whatever that is i don't know except that it's apparently expensive). Then the extra cost is to cover adaptor plates to manifold/exhaust, running of water and oil feed lines, labour (of course) and a dyno tune.

THat is sounding a little closer to the mark and after re-speaking with the mechanic i now understand a whole lot clearer where the $$ is alloctaed and it has eased my concerns.

Just thought i'd post it up FYI ;)
It sounds far cheaper to buy a complete turbo which is made to go together than paying someone else to kludge together old parts with a new core.
Hi-flowing a new turbo sounds like bollocks to me. Do you really think a small turbo workshop can do better than the Garrett R&D engineers? Pick the right turbo and you can avoid all that.

If the problem is fitting a new turbo with a different flange (like a T28) onto your T3 manifold then I have the solution. PM me and I'll send you drawings for the adapter.
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Post by sootygu »

benhl wrote:Then the extra cost is to cover adaptor plates to manifold/exhaust, running of water and oil feed lines, labour (of course) and a dyno tune.
You should not need adaptor plates for manifold/exhaust if using the factory housings, everthing should bolt up to existing manifolds and dump pipe.
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