4.2 gu overheating

Post by **built2redline** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 2:54 pm

hey all my 4.2 td is overheating even after 2 radiator flushes, wich released a fair bit of sludge from the radiator.

it only really gets to about 3/4 of the guage but thats not towing anything, and its running on the freeway.... this worsens as i put the A/C on

some facts on the ute:

gu 1999 260k kms
4" lift with 35's

Post by **chimpboy** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 3:01 pm

stuck thermostat?

stuffed fan clutch?

Post by **bogged** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 3:03 pm

built2redline wrote:hey all my 4.2 td is overheating even after 2 radiator flushes, wich released a fair bit of sludge from the radiator.

it only really gets to about 3/4 of the guage but thats not towing anything, and its running on the freeway.... this worsens as i put the A/C on

some facts on the ute:

gu 1999 260k kms
4" lift with 35's

100,000 threads on overheating GU's.
all with plenty of options on what is wrong
and I'd start with takin radiator to get tanks removed and cleaned if theres plenty of shit comin out of it...

Post by **gqtroll90** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 1:10 pm

it might need an engine flush you can but it from super cheap auto and places like that i have also seen this website advertised in magazines which sell engine flush www.costeffective.com.au

Post by **weeman** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 1:43 pm

whats the airflow like,

have you recently fitted a winch ? spotties?

Post by **Dooma_** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 2:01 pm

Welcome to the world of Over heating GU's. Read this thread
There is Heaps of Us
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic88552.php - (Pg 5 in this section)

I have a 1999 Non turbo 4.2 with a Highflowed roller bearing Turbo, Race Spec Fuel Pump, Big $$ Radiator, New Viscub Hub with Honey, Good Quality Toyota Coolant, New Raditor Cap & Modded Thermo stat.4" Lift 35's & Towing Camper trailer (But even with out still got Hot Just took Longer) I have had it on the Dyno & Tuned. It was getting 160 HP at the Rears (But Getting Hot on every Hill on the H/Way about 110 - 115 dec just of Hot) Have had it De tuned To 140 Hp It is heaps better but on a big range still gets to about 105 dec (3/4 on Gauge). Next step is Intercooler so as I can get more H/P & cooler temps... GOOD LUCK ...

Dooma

Post by **Troll00** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 5:39 pm

Ditto and have had mine detuned to 120 HPRW to see if it fixes it, will tell you next week after the weekend run to Levuka

Post by **Ashleyhj74** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:12 pm

I bought a Aussie Desert Cooler 4-core triple flow alloy job for my 4.2ltr turbo GU. Its a monster radiator. Only issue....a: never fitted it. b: sold my GU. It cost me $850 + postage (its for sale for $800obo) and its still in the box it came in. But i'm in Geelong Vic......you aint it'd seem. Norm (at Aussie Desert Cooler) cured the overheating problems i had in my HJ ute (worked 350 chev, air conditioning, 5-post bullbar with bull lights...not a good mix for a cool engine), put his 3-core triple flow steel job in and never had a problem again. This alloy one is wider/deeper/thicker so i'm assuming it'd have no problems cooling a 4.2.

Post by **steel** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:01 pm

did you flush the engine aswell or just the rad?
sometimes flushing wont remove the crap in a radiator. you might need to remove the tanks and stick a rod through the cores.

Post by **Troll00** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:23 pm

I also found this week a hole in the vacum hose to the actuator on the turbo and a hole in the bottom of the intercooler it has been rubbing on the engine

Post by **built2redline** » Thu Jan 22, 2009 6:03 pm

UPDATE: i pulled the radiator out and it was caked in shit! so out came the guerney and it got blasted from the opposite side, being careful not to damage the fins. then the radiator got flushed while upside down..

i have been thrashing the ute all day today with the humid and 33+ weather and the needle hasnt moved... even with the aircon on full blast.

oh and i also replaced the thermostat with a factory one...

Post by **Dooma_** » Thu Jan 22, 2009 8:26 pm

built2redline wrote:UPDATE: i pulled the radiator out and it was caked in shit! so out came the guerney and it got blasted from the opposite side, being careful not to damage the fins. then the radiator got flushed while upside down..

i have been thrashing the ute all day today with the humid and 33+ weather and the needle hasnt moved... even with the aircon on full blast.

oh and i also replaced the thermostat with a factory one...

Glad to hear All fixed.

Let us Know How it goes When towing & What sort off power It Produces
as it would be a Good Comparison. - (As i can Flog mine All day around Town It only Gets Hot on H/Way)

Ta Dooma

Post by **built2redline** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 2:43 pm

well i had it on the freeway today (40 degree heat)at 110 all the way, with the A/C on and still the needle didnt move from just under the 1/2 way mark.. so i think its fixed.

Post by **dirtyGQ** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:02 pm

i find people try all sorts of things ,when it gets hot driving around town it is usually airflow problem (clutch fan,dirty fins or obtrusions like spotties etc) but when it gets hot at higher revs it is usually a water flow problem ..... and i have seen that most aussie desert cooler rads don't work well on diesels.
I had dramas so got radiator tanks removed and cores cleaned and also flushed block.
this was the answer ...till a few months later .
So what i did then is pull out the radiator and put a brand new one in,that was 2 years ago and cost me $280 and not a bother since and that is towing 2500 ip mountain ranges etc.

Post by **PGS 4WD** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:16 pm

Chemical flushes and pressure flushes dont compare to having a tank removed and the cores cleaned with a steel rod. My 200 rwkW TD42 was running warm untill I had a proper radiator clean, now it's all good towing up hills a/c hot days no worries.

Joel

Post by **phippsey** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:29 pm

built2redline wrote:well i had it on the freeway today (40 degree heat)at 110 all the way, with the A/C on and still the needle didnt move from just under the 1/2 way mark.. so i think its fixed.

Gotta try the hard stuff tho

Even after flushes, increased turbo, a PWR custom radiator, new thermostat and replaced condensor (airflow increase) the old girl still overheats towing trailers/roof racks loaded, etc up long ranges in the heat. But that's ok spose

But compared to B4 it's a different vehicle

I know guys who drove their 03 GU utes off the factory floor and it overheated on the drive home

Welcome to 4.2 GU land

Post by **Troll00** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:18 pm

Has anybody tried using an oil cooler to reduce the heat out of the oil and engine

After an engine rebuild and a PWR radiator installed it still overheats up hills with a 17' van on the back but cools the moment you ge to the top of the hill

Post by **clarkey** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:53 pm

my TD4.2T used to run perfect everywhere in brisbane except towing boat to sommerset, then moved over west and the heating problem really came to a head tried everything and wasn't till i put this big radiator in that it went away, now my pyro temps out before the engine, fucking diesels

Post by **money_killer** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 7:15 pm

Troll00 wrote:Has anybody tried using an oil cooler to reduce the heat out of the oil and engine

After an engine rebuild and a PWR radiator installed it still overheats up hills with a 17' van on the back but cools the moment you ge to the top of the hill

i have been told that putting a oil cooler on would help.

Outer Limits 4x4 Board

4.2 gu overheating

4.2 gu overheating

Re: 4.2 gu overheating

yeah pwr fixed my hot GQ

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