Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
would this stuff be ok for body lift
Moderator: Tiny
In practice yes - that's what mine are made of and the have withstood far more punishment than most Feroza's ever see.
However...... your local registration/engineering authority may require the use of metal blocks so if it must be legal then check first.
However...... your local registration/engineering authority may require the use of metal blocks so if it must be legal then check first.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
I have a machine shop....... so they were turned from bar.
Mine also aren't equal length, I'm running 50mm lift at the front and 25mm at the rear hence the blocks are different lengths.
You will obviously need longer bolts as well ( they are 1.25mm pitch IIRC ) and I replaced the two rear studs with bolts. I used plated ones as I have seen body mount bolts get quite corroded.
Mine also aren't equal length, I'm running 50mm lift at the front and 25mm at the rear hence the blocks are different lengths.
You will obviously need longer bolts as well ( they are 1.25mm pitch IIRC ) and I replaced the two rear studs with bolts. I used plated ones as I have seen body mount bolts get quite corroded.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
When you say "steel plates" do you mean round steel bar ?
Plate is usually sort of thin, but yes steel would be ok - if heavy and much harder to cut/drill.
Round is probably best but within limits ( and from memory... ) shape wouldn't be a major factor.
There's no science to making the blocks, if you have the bar then all you need is a hacksaw and a drill and your done. A few mm difference in length wont matter and if the holes a bit wonky .... no big deal.
If you visit the suppliers the will most likely cut the material to lenght for you anyway, sometimes even for free.
As for bolts, take out the old ones, measure their length, add your lift and off to a bolt supplier..... Take an old one - just to check the thread is the same. A bit longer makes absolutely no difference - hovever I'd replace the bolts, washers and use NyLock nuts by preference ( but not essential ).
To do it all you need is a jack, some timber blocks to adjust the jacks height and spread the load when you lift the body, and the right size spanner. Its easy and straighforward.
HOWEVER, remember that some lines etc will need to be loosened and the radiator lowered etc etc. I won't go into all the details - its been covered in great detail in other posts ( I hate saying this, but SEARCH is your friend..
)
Plate is usually sort of thin, but yes steel would be ok - if heavy and much harder to cut/drill.
Round is probably best but within limits ( and from memory... ) shape wouldn't be a major factor.
There's no science to making the blocks, if you have the bar then all you need is a hacksaw and a drill and your done. A few mm difference in length wont matter and if the holes a bit wonky .... no big deal.
If you visit the suppliers the will most likely cut the material to lenght for you anyway, sometimes even for free.
As for bolts, take out the old ones, measure their length, add your lift and off to a bolt supplier..... Take an old one - just to check the thread is the same. A bit longer makes absolutely no difference - hovever I'd replace the bolts, washers and use NyLock nuts by preference ( but not essential ).
To do it all you need is a jack, some timber blocks to adjust the jacks height and spread the load when you lift the body, and the right size spanner. Its easy and straighforward.
HOWEVER, remember that some lines etc will need to be loosened and the radiator lowered etc etc. I won't go into all the details - its been covered in great detail in other posts ( I hate saying this, but SEARCH is your friend..
)( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests