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Shed Insulation
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Shed Insulation
Hey Guys,
We have built a 6X9m shed and have found the roof gets very hot.
Whats the best and easiest way to insulate a shed roof?
Was thinking batts but did not want to gyprock the whole roof.
Could stryofoam esky lids be cut down and used or would this be uneffective?
Thanks
Jason
We have built a 6X9m shed and have found the roof gets very hot.
Whats the best and easiest way to insulate a shed roof?
Was thinking batts but did not want to gyprock the whole roof.
Could stryofoam esky lids be cut down and used or would this be uneffective?
Thanks
Jason
you could use the roof batts and put mesh up under the batts to hold the batts up, or use roof blanket like we put under colorbond roofs but that would invole taking the roof off and laying blanket under roof sheets to do it correctly, does your roof have sarking ( silver paper ) on it ?????
just a few ideas
rob
just a few ideas
rob
come on move over and let the 75 through
The easiest way I can think of is a whirlybird or 2.
Won't insulate the shed as such but will allow the heat buildup to escape and will be heaps easier than taking the roof off to put fibreglass insulation with a silver sarking backing (builders/roof blanket) which would be the best + whirlbirds IMO.
Won't insulate the shed as such but will allow the heat buildup to escape and will be heaps easier than taking the roof off to put fibreglass insulation with a silver sarking backing (builders/roof blanket) which would be the best + whirlbirds IMO.
Last edited by Mr DJ on Sat Dec 08, 2007 5:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.
91' Hilux Surf with the usual mods & a few different ones ....
Coil SAS by www.budscustoms.com.au
Coil SAS by www.budscustoms.com.au
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Replace the ridgecap with a vented ridgecap..... this is probably your cheapest option with an excelent cooling ability.
Dont attempt to glue batts or polystyrene foam to the roofing iron as the condensation will cause corrosion much quicker & the glue will eventually release on a hot day anyway.
Panels of 'cement sheet' screwed to the underside of the perlins can also be a great way of baffling roof heat, looks great but an absolute bytch to install unless you have a plasterer mate to help you
Your only other 'real' alternative is to line the bottom of the perlins with mesh ( chicken wire for example ), and then fit a batt between the roof and wire, if its as hot as you say then do it mid winter
NB: you can obviously line the shed with cement sheet and then add the batts to...... lota work !
Kingy
Dont attempt to glue batts or polystyrene foam to the roofing iron as the condensation will cause corrosion much quicker & the glue will eventually release on a hot day anyway.
Panels of 'cement sheet' screwed to the underside of the perlins can also be a great way of baffling roof heat, looks great but an absolute bytch to install unless you have a plasterer mate to help you
Your only other 'real' alternative is to line the bottom of the perlins with mesh ( chicken wire for example ), and then fit a batt between the roof and wire, if its as hot as you say then do it mid winter
NB: you can obviously line the shed with cement sheet and then add the batts to...... lota work !
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
use a air cell product it's sort of a tarp type of material with air gaps they use this for roofs and also the under side of floors by screwing to joists.
this would be a easy solution as to fit it just run a liquid nails along the underside of existing batten, then hold up the air cell then run some washered screws to hold until the liquid nails dry, this will also leave the air gap between the roof and insulation, admitadly it's best under the sheeting like the fibre glass stuff but this is how we've done it before so we didn't have to take the roof off.
remember if your going to line the ceiling you have to have a batten to fix to at least every 450mm so to just screw to existing roof battens would not be suitable, we normally batten out with a 20mm ceiling batten screwed to the roof battens this will support your fibro sheets.
imho a whirly bird is the go unless your roof is low also some windows in the shed to create a natural breeze flow through would also help to escape trapped heat.
http://www.air-cell.com.au/
this would be a easy solution as to fit it just run a liquid nails along the underside of existing batten, then hold up the air cell then run some washered screws to hold until the liquid nails dry, this will also leave the air gap between the roof and insulation, admitadly it's best under the sheeting like the fibre glass stuff but this is how we've done it before so we didn't have to take the roof off.
remember if your going to line the ceiling you have to have a batten to fix to at least every 450mm so to just screw to existing roof battens would not be suitable, we normally batten out with a 20mm ceiling batten screwed to the roof battens this will support your fibro sheets.
imho a whirly bird is the go unless your roof is low also some windows in the shed to create a natural breeze flow through would also help to escape trapped heat.
http://www.air-cell.com.au/
jeep thing go topless
Does it matter what colour the roof is???
There is a insulpaint available that is easily applied and works so well. Expect up to 12-15 deg drop in roof temp. Really good clean of the roof and an airless paint gun and your on ya way.
Only real downer is it is white so if ya can see the roof and it matters this can be a prob.
Good option though.
There is a insulpaint available that is easily applied and works so well. Expect up to 12-15 deg drop in roof temp. Really good clean of the roof and an airless paint gun and your on ya way.
Only real downer is it is white so if ya can see the roof and it matters this can be a prob.
Good option though.
I am planning to insulate mine .. walls and all, for reasons of both hot and cold .. It would have to help with noise (Reflected noise as well as noise escaping and upsetting the neighbours/wife)
I have blanket in the roof and that makes a bit of a difference.
I was planning on using some of that perforated masonite stuff, or chipboard with glass bats behind it (I can get the chipboard in pallet size for the cost of diesal to pick it up)
I have blanket in the roof and that makes a bit of a difference.
I was planning on using some of that perforated masonite stuff, or chipboard with glass bats behind it (I can get the chipboard in pallet size for the cost of diesal to pick it up)
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
If you are considering using glass batts, Id suggest polyester batts instead.
Slightly more expensive, I insulated walls and roof of my house for $900 using R3 rated batts. (overkill by most standards) glass batts would have been $700.
Polyester batts are easier to work with, safe to handle, (you could sleep in the polyester stuff), and just as effective as glass batts. Glass batts break down over time into loose fibres that would come through a perforated board
best bit is you dont cop all the glass fibres in the skin, lungs, eyes etc when you install it or if you have to get into the roof space
I believe glass batts are banned in many countries, if you have to dump glass batts it is treated the same as asbestos waste ie dangerous @#$%
Slightly more expensive, I insulated walls and roof of my house for $900 using R3 rated batts. (overkill by most standards) glass batts would have been $700.
Polyester batts are easier to work with, safe to handle, (you could sleep in the polyester stuff), and just as effective as glass batts. Glass batts break down over time into loose fibres that would come through a perforated board
best bit is you dont cop all the glass fibres in the skin, lungs, eyes etc when you install it or if you have to get into the roof space
I believe glass batts are banned in many countries, if you have to dump glass batts it is treated the same as asbestos waste ie dangerous @#$%
RN wrote:pussy is out, its the log for me... Thank you Jesus.
did you do it?love_mud wrote:I am planning to insulate mine .. walls and all, for reasons of both hot and cold .. It would have to help with noise (Reflected noise as well as noise escaping and upsetting the neighbours/wife)
I have blanket in the roof and that makes a bit of a difference.
I was planning on using some of that perforated masonite stuff, or chipboard with glass bats behind it (I can get the chipboard in pallet size for the cost of diesal to pick it up)
We've also used this quite a bit, and it's a great product.super jeep wrote:use a air cell product it's sort of a tarp type of material with air gaps they use this for roofs and also the under side of floors by screwing to joists.
this would be a easy solution as to fit it just run a liquid nails along the underside of existing batten, then hold up the air cell then run some washered screws to hold until the liquid nails dry, this will also leave the air gap between the roof and insulation, admitadly it's best under the sheeting like the fibre glass stuff but this is how we've done it before so we didn't have to take the roof off.
remember if your going to line the ceiling you have to have a batten to fix to at least every 450mm so to just screw to existing roof battens would not be suitable, we normally batten out with a 20mm ceiling batten screwed to the roof battens this will support your fibro sheets.
imho a whirly bird is the go unless your roof is low also some windows in the shed to create a natural breeze flow through would also help to escape trapped heat.
http://www.air-cell.com.au/
Good thread i want to do my shed.fatassgq wrote:Does it matter what colour the roof is???
There is a insulpaint available that is easily applied and works so well. Expect up to 12-15 deg drop in roof temp. Really good clean of the roof and an airless paint gun and your on ya way.
Only real downer is it is white so if ya can see the roof and it matters this can be a prob.
Good option though.
I have heard differing reports of these paints Was looking at getting the house roof done and several guys rubbished it and some others said it was great but would not give a guarantee of an improvement
For the colour couldn't you just add a tint
Kind Regards,
Brad
Brad
I'm a roofer.. and what i'd advise to you.. is what I've done to my own shed ->Pull roof off, run safety wire (depending on the span between purlins x and battens.. ), either 50mm (my case 75mm) Anticon blanket.. re-install roof. I'd also run a whirlybird(one is heaps for 6x9).. make sure you get a good quality one with sealed bearings etc..
walls: i put sisalation on all external walls then sheeted the external.. then lined the internals with polyester batts.. then lined the inside with corro(cheap and i have..LOTS).. short of putting in A/C.. thats the best you'll get.. you should also think about double glazed glass ..but thats posibbly a bit pedantic, especially seeing as there isn;t much you can do about your doors..
I have used aircell in the past.. and like the way it works in theory.. but am yet to see it produce similar results to anticon in practice..
walls: i put sisalation on all external walls then sheeted the external.. then lined the internals with polyester batts.. then lined the inside with corro(cheap and i have..LOTS).. short of putting in A/C.. thats the best you'll get.. you should also think about double glazed glass ..but thats posibbly a bit pedantic, especially seeing as there isn;t much you can do about your doors..
I have used aircell in the past.. and like the way it works in theory.. but am yet to see it produce similar results to anticon in practice..
Aircell is definately the way to go, used it on my shed (330sqm of the stuff) and on 30degree days it stays around 24 inside, huge difference compared to non insulated. With sheds you need to use the foam stuff not the airbubble stuff (well thats what the rep told me), and it also makes a difference on cold days aswell keeping it warmer.
Its not cheap at around $280 a 30sqm roll but worth it, i'm using it when we build our house aswell.
Rated at 2.7 i think
Its not cheap at around $280 a 30sqm roll but worth it, i'm using it when we build our house aswell.
Rated at 2.7 i think
Damien
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We had the hanger I work in done in a product like this. It made a noticeable difference. As for colour yes it makes a difference. Most aircraft are white because lighter colours stay cooler. I used to have a chart that showed difference between different colours, black being the worst.LuxyBoy wrote:Good thread i want to do my shed.fatassgq wrote:Does it matter what colour the roof is???
There is a insulpaint available that is easily applied and works so well. Expect up to 12-15 deg drop in roof temp. Really good clean of the roof and an airless paint gun and your on ya way.
Only real downer is it is white so if ya can see the roof and it matters this can be a prob.
Good option though.
I have heard differing reports of these paints Was looking at getting the house roof done and several guys rubbished it and some others said it was great but would not give a guarantee of an improvement
For the colour couldn't you just add a tint
Ben
Whatever you decide do as much as you can afford, a hot shed is crap. We made the mistake years ago of matching the shed roof to the house - RED.
In summer up in Gympie it's often unbearable but i cannot afford to do anything at present. Oh and depending on your roof colour 1 whirlybird is crap. They are not that dear I would say put one in each bay. I have an opening in every wall, either the 2 roller doors or 3 house sized windows and it's still crap due to the roof colour. Been tempted to paint it just to get rid of the red.
If starting from scratch I'd recommend:
White, cream or silver roof - for matching the house colour your doors and trim bits.
Wall height at least 2.7 preferrably 3 metres.
Pitch 15 degrees rather than 10.
Whirlybird in every bay.
House sized windows not those crappy ones they usually put in sheds. I think about 1300.
And make sure you keep enough aside for roof insulation of some sort.
In summer up in Gympie it's often unbearable but i cannot afford to do anything at present. Oh and depending on your roof colour 1 whirlybird is crap. They are not that dear I would say put one in each bay. I have an opening in every wall, either the 2 roller doors or 3 house sized windows and it's still crap due to the roof colour. Been tempted to paint it just to get rid of the red.
If starting from scratch I'd recommend:
White, cream or silver roof - for matching the house colour your doors and trim bits.
Wall height at least 2.7 preferrably 3 metres.
Pitch 15 degrees rather than 10.
Whirlybird in every bay.
House sized windows not those crappy ones they usually put in sheds. I think about 1300.
And make sure you keep enough aside for roof insulation of some sort.
air cell insulation
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/airfoil-t2-Insul ... dZViewItem
found this on ebay mite be what u looking for
found this on ebay mite be what u looking for
put a flap on it for winterausyota wrote:Do the whirly birds create cold drafts in winter though?
I know they are the ducks nuts in summer but what happens in winter when you have the potbelly or gas heater going to get a bit of warmth on a cold night?
i just cardboard mine up
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