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Engine options for my LWB
Engine options for my LWB
Straight off search nazis need to chill I already searched
ATM I have a 1.3 corolla (5k??) in it but it's too damn slow In the grand scheme of things I want to run 33's and tow a small trailer and it won't cut it.
From what I've read so far I can pretty easily swap the motor for a ;
* 1.5 corolla (carby)
* 1800 (liteace van??) toyota EFI
What other motors will fit without change/ drop straight in? OR how about head interchangability? ie twin cam heads etc for the 1.3? I don't mind blowing/ injecting something if there's a good value combo someone knows of!!!
Please help I'm getting a headache trying to figure out what fits I was willing to cop about 3 - 3.5 k for a vit motor in the beginning so that's a rough price guide I spose
Cheers, mj
ATM I have a 1.3 corolla (5k??) in it but it's too damn slow In the grand scheme of things I want to run 33's and tow a small trailer and it won't cut it.
From what I've read so far I can pretty easily swap the motor for a ;
* 1.5 corolla (carby)
* 1800 (liteace van??) toyota EFI
What other motors will fit without change/ drop straight in? OR how about head interchangability? ie twin cam heads etc for the 1.3? I don't mind blowing/ injecting something if there's a good value combo someone knows of!!!
Please help I'm getting a headache trying to figure out what fits I was willing to cop about 3 - 3.5 k for a vit motor in the beginning so that's a rough price guide I spose
Cheers, mj
You are running a 3k if it is 1.3 litres which I asuume means you are running the yota box as well. So I would probably go for the 5k which is a 1500 for the lowest cost option as you won't have to change the box.
Other than that I guess the Vitara option or a turbo Sierra engine.
SAM
Other than that I guess the Vitara option or a turbo Sierra engine.
SAM
OVERKILL ENGINEERING
www.overkill4x4.com
www.overkill4x4.com
Yeah that's what I thought at first too BUT..................
With the 1.3 conversion I believe the transfer has been moved back a little and of course the mounts have been changed.
As a result a vitara swap would need a lot of fuggin round with shafts etc costing $$$. This was the advice of Suzisport in Albion anywho. I would be paying to get the work done, not doing myself.
Sooooo.... what I need is something that will fit straight into the hole where my 1.3 corolla is now. Am I making sense??? I type a different language sometimes
I tried to keep the first post shortish so missed some of this.
With the 1.3 conversion I believe the transfer has been moved back a little and of course the mounts have been changed.
As a result a vitara swap would need a lot of fuggin round with shafts etc costing $$$. This was the advice of Suzisport in Albion anywho. I would be paying to get the work done, not doing myself.
Sooooo.... what I need is something that will fit straight into the hole where my 1.3 corolla is now. Am I making sense??? I type a different language sometimes
I tried to keep the first post shortish so missed some of this.
You are running a 3k if it is 1.3 litres which I asuume means you are running the yota box as well. So I would probably go for the 5k which is a 1500 for the lowest cost option as you won't have to change the box.
Other than that I guess the Vitara option or a turbo Sierra engine.
SAM
Ahhhhh.... Is the 1500 any good or just a comprimise though. I don't mind spending about 3.5 k on it. Anything else fit up to the yota box SAM?
[
Sooooo.... what I need is something that will fit straight into the hole where my 1.3 corolla is now. Am I making sense??? I type a different language sometimes
I tried to keep the first post shortish so missed some of this.[/quote]
The 1.5 (5k) will bolt straight in.
Sooooo.... what I need is something that will fit straight into the hole where my 1.3 corolla is now. Am I making sense??? I type a different language sometimes
I tried to keep the first post shortish so missed some of this.[/quote]
The 1.5 (5k) will bolt straight in.
OVERKILL ENGINEERING
www.overkill4x4.com
www.overkill4x4.com
Oh Contrare (SP??) the work has merely already been done to fit the vitara 1.6 & auto.
Interesting Might have to see suzisport tomorrow An auto would be good considering the gearing available.
Depends on $$$ from there. Is the 5k SOHC? If so might investigate injection for that but I'm sure the $$$ would rack up then At least a 1.5 would be cheap to pick up initially
Any other ideas/ opinions around, it's all much appreciated
overkill wrote:You are running a 3k if it is 1.3 litres which I asuume means you are running the yota box as well. So I would probably go for the 5k which is a 1500 for the lowest cost option as you won't have to change the box.
Other than that I guess the Vitara option or a turbo Sierra engine.
SAM
What about the Turbo Vitara option
Yota engines
Hi
There was a s*it load of 4k efi engine brought into OZ in the early to mid 90's.
The efi setup fit's stright onto all the "K" series blocks. Delco computer out of a 2 litre camira- get the Eprom flashed for a barina GT map (should be close) and tune from there.
Another option is a 2T out of a ra22/ra23 celica.
or
2TGEU (2T G (twin cam) E (EFI) U (unleaded) as a jap import motor. these can really rev.
2T/3t (3T is out of a T 18 coupe)series are heavy mothers though. Can put out some grunt. Know someone with a 2TG bored and stroked to a 1930 in a KE 30 yota Rally car. That thing growls and fly's.
4a or 4AG might be an option.
Early 4AG 20 valve will really rev and it's a 5V head that can be made to breath big time. Formaula atlanta engines made serious power but at serious revs. NO GOOD for crawling.
For more torque stroke the K series block. From Memory. In a 4K block fit a 5k crank with the bottom of the block relieved and 3 K rods and skim the block 6 or 10 though (can't remember) standard pistons rings etc.
Low end lumpy cam anda 4-2-1 extractor system with long primary tubes.
Thee formula/clubman 1300 guys are a wealth of knowledge for hotting up K series yotas.
Also try the Car Club of R.M.I.T university Melbourne lotsa guys in that club rally ke20, ke30 and ke55's.
Will try and find the old info I had on mix and match K series yota engines parts in different blocks to get more of less cubes.
There is also a Diesel motor from hi-ace vans that looks like a K series if you want to convert to diesel.
Capacity about 1.5 or 1.7. Motor is leaned over like the K series and looks externally similar in size.
later
P
There was a s*it load of 4k efi engine brought into OZ in the early to mid 90's.
The efi setup fit's stright onto all the "K" series blocks. Delco computer out of a 2 litre camira- get the Eprom flashed for a barina GT map (should be close) and tune from there.
Another option is a 2T out of a ra22/ra23 celica.
or
2TGEU (2T G (twin cam) E (EFI) U (unleaded) as a jap import motor. these can really rev.
2T/3t (3T is out of a T 18 coupe)series are heavy mothers though. Can put out some grunt. Know someone with a 2TG bored and stroked to a 1930 in a KE 30 yota Rally car. That thing growls and fly's.
4a or 4AG might be an option.
Early 4AG 20 valve will really rev and it's a 5V head that can be made to breath big time. Formaula atlanta engines made serious power but at serious revs. NO GOOD for crawling.
For more torque stroke the K series block. From Memory. In a 4K block fit a 5k crank with the bottom of the block relieved and 3 K rods and skim the block 6 or 10 though (can't remember) standard pistons rings etc.
Low end lumpy cam anda 4-2-1 extractor system with long primary tubes.
Thee formula/clubman 1300 guys are a wealth of knowledge for hotting up K series yotas.
Also try the Car Club of R.M.I.T university Melbourne lotsa guys in that club rally ke20, ke30 and ke55's.
Will try and find the old info I had on mix and match K series yota engines parts in different blocks to get more of less cubes.
There is also a Diesel motor from hi-ace vans that looks like a K series if you want to convert to diesel.
Capacity about 1.5 or 1.7. Motor is leaned over like the K series and looks externally similar in size.
later
P
..Doze a greenie..why? they deserve it.
mj wrote:With the 1.3 conversion I believe the transfer has been moved back a little and of course the mounts have been changed.
As a result a vitara swap would need a lot of fuggin round with shafts etc costing $$$.
I'm thinking that the only additional "fugging" would be a custom length jackshaft, the new engine mounts - easy
Note: you may well find that another jackshaft will fit in there anyway. My F6A engine and g'box don't reach back as far as the sierra combo so we sourced a Sierra Coiler jackshaft - 90mm longer - works a treat.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
mj wrote:Thanx guys
I like the sound of the 5k stroked + injected Even just injected, some good info Ogre. I'll research this further I think and talk to some engineering shops
I'd prefer not modifying an engine. If you're going to the trouble of an engine swap find exactly what you want in stock form and use that. Less r00ting around and more reliable. Eg, if you want a 2 litre engine with EFI and an auto find something that has 2 litres, EFI and an auto
I think a N/A SR20 + auto would be sweet but dunno if it'd be in your price range
mj wrote:Grimbo I know what gearing etc your zook has, how does the 5k go with all that
i have had no problems with it in the 4 years or so its been in. More torque than the Sierra 1.3, has taken some water abuse (see deep water crossing thread) pushed the 34s around with stock gearing, will sit on 100ish on the highway with the 34s and a Series 1 rockhopper (haven't really driven at that speed with the Series 3). Does run slightly warmer than the 1.3 but with a slightly bigger fan and some vents in the back of the bonnet all is good.
Would I do it again, probably not would rather go the Vitara 1.6 and auto to keep things all Suzuki but all in all not a bad swap
Ransom note = demand + collage
have had no problems with it in the 4 years or so its been in. More torque than the Sierra 1.3, has taken some water abuse (see deep water crossing thread) pushed the 34s around with stock gearing, will sit on 100ish on the highway with the 34s and a Series 1 rockhopper (haven't really driven at that speed with the Series 3). Does run slightly warmer than the 1.3 but with a slightly bigger fan and some vents in the back of the bonnet all is good.
Would I do it again, probably not would rather go the Vitara 1.6 and auto to keep things all Suzuki but all in all not a bad swap
Cool thanks If I were able to find a smashed donor car with air could probably get air con to boot huh Would need sierra underdash box but the rest corolla........ is that right [/quote]
[/quote]mj wrote:Cool thanks If I were able to find a smashed donor car with air could probably get air con to boot huh Would need sierra underdash box but the rest corolla........ is that right
You may be able to get a front cut if you decide to go vitara - that would score you plenty of goodies in addition to just the engine (hopefully enough goodies to get the majority of the installation done.
mj, perhaps you should work out what this engine is going to achieve before making the decision... besides towing a trailer - are there any other priorities.
for example, with my engine swap i absolutely positively had to have fuel injection because i wanted it to be able to run on all angles - something that my sierra engine wouldn't do. And i wanted to be able to get up certain hills around melbourne without having to drop down to fourth (and even third) to get over the top. These are the sorts of things you may want to think about before making your decision.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Damo wrote:I think a N/A SR20 + auto would be sweet but dunno if it'd be in your price range
Interestingly i think that this option has been proven to be far cheaper than the 1600 Vitara installation due to the fact that most people that want SR20's want them with the turbo and they want them with a manual behind them... This leaves the autos and the N/A engines lying around with no one that wants them - hense the cheaper price
Note: that's definately not suggesting that it is an easy installation though.
There is a fellow in the suzuki club down here moving his SR20 into a lwb sierra at the moment with it mated up to an auto... no doubt there will be pics of it circulating once it's up and going
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
mj, perhaps you should work out what this engine is going to achieve before making the decision... besides towing a trailer - are there any other priorities.
Must haves;
Balls Enough torque to tow small trailer while running 33's + loaded up and still keep up highway speed/ with traffic etc
There aren't really many other major priorities, just reliability and ability to be engineered/ approved
Hence I was thinking something around 1.5l with injection and supercharger.
Gee you're a helpful fella Greg
Dude,
you can buy an entire early model corolla (early to mid 80s) over her with decent engines and auto boxs for about $200.00.
I have just bought an Lj with one in and was thinking the same.
But considering they are so cheap to by it dosen't hurt so much when you kill them.
Why not keep that engine and squeeze a few more ponies out of it. AT least if you go too far and blow it up you can replace it cheap.
The fuel injection sounds good, stroke it out maybe, add the usual extractors, k&N etc and maybe even a blower. Then chuck in the auto box!
With your gearing coming that should be plenty. Then you can spend your money on other cool things!!!!!!!!!!.
Anyway my 2 cents.
you can buy an entire early model corolla (early to mid 80s) over her with decent engines and auto boxs for about $200.00.
I have just bought an Lj with one in and was thinking the same.
But considering they are so cheap to by it dosen't hurt so much when you kill them.
Why not keep that engine and squeeze a few more ponies out of it. AT least if you go too far and blow it up you can replace it cheap.
The fuel injection sounds good, stroke it out maybe, add the usual extractors, k&N etc and maybe even a blower. Then chuck in the auto box!
With your gearing coming that should be plenty. Then you can spend your money on other cool things!!!!!!!!!!.
Anyway my 2 cents.
Ok now time to throw my 2C in here.
If you already have the 4K (1.3L) engine then you already have the K50 box sitting behind it.
If you want something that will bolt in its place without too much drama and 3-3.5K to spend then without being biased I'd throw a 4A engine into it.
You already have the K50 box so you would have to source an AE71 box that has the bellhousing suited to the 4A. It should bolt straight into where yours came out of using the same jackshaft. Unfortunately the bellhousing is incorporated into the boxes case so you cant just swap the bellhousings over to your box. New box all the way. Now that you have this sorted, pick out from the family of 4A engines which one you desire and bolt it in using AE71 engine mounts. Im not exactly sure whether these will line up perfectly with the 4K chassis mounts you already have but welding some new mounts in is no biggy.
Plumb and wire it in and you now have over twice the grunt of the old asthmatic 4K.
If you already have the 4K (1.3L) engine then you already have the K50 box sitting behind it.
If you want something that will bolt in its place without too much drama and 3-3.5K to spend then without being biased I'd throw a 4A engine into it.
You already have the K50 box so you would have to source an AE71 box that has the bellhousing suited to the 4A. It should bolt straight into where yours came out of using the same jackshaft. Unfortunately the bellhousing is incorporated into the boxes case so you cant just swap the bellhousings over to your box. New box all the way. Now that you have this sorted, pick out from the family of 4A engines which one you desire and bolt it in using AE71 engine mounts. Im not exactly sure whether these will line up perfectly with the 4K chassis mounts you already have but welding some new mounts in is no biggy.
Plumb and wire it in and you now have over twice the grunt of the old asthmatic 4K.
mj wrote:Must haves;
Balls Enough torque to tow small trailer while running 33's + loaded up and still keep up highway speed/ with traffic etc
Since you have only listed torque and grunt (with no mention of anything angled etc), perhaps you could save some money by only using a carbed motor?
mj wrote:There aren't really many other major priorities, just reliability and ability to be engineered/ approved
Hence I was thinking something around 1.5l with injection and supercharger.
Could be worth investigating what you can and cannot engineer in your car in your state...?
Vitara 1.6 carbed engine springs to mind from your above requirements, but i don't know if that'll tow a trailer nicely or not?
mj wrote:Gee you're a helpful fella Greg
I know mate... i know.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Hey thanks for the advice so far all
Greg, would really prefer injection mate, I know I didn't list the angle stuff but I meant too
Now the big question..... What does everyone know about the 7k toyota?
I was doin a bit of research and it puts out 74kw @ 4600 and 140nm @ 2800 which should suit me nicely
Being a k series block it will bolt straight up to my gearbox right? How about mounting it...... will it drop right in?
Anyone got an idea what sort of $$$ they go for?
Greg, would really prefer injection mate, I know I didn't list the angle stuff but I meant too
Now the big question..... What does everyone know about the 7k toyota?
I was doin a bit of research and it puts out 74kw @ 4600 and 140nm @ 2800 which should suit me nicely
Being a k series block it will bolt straight up to my gearbox right? How about mounting it...... will it drop right in?
Anyone got an idea what sort of $$$ they go for?
Did some running round today and got some more opinions.
4AGE $2200 for motor/ loom/ computer and gearbox.
7k....... $2500 for engine
Trusty 5k $300
The 4age has 132k on it and the box will fit where the K50 sits now. Will need wiring and new mounts too. (thanks bazooka)
7k seems expensive but is a bit easier, just needs wiring.
5k is cheap but I'll just want to rip it out later Could add injection etc but is a real "bitsa" then (thanks ogre)
Had a good look and the transfer has not been moved which opens up heaps more options..................... Like the vitara.................. More research
4AGE $2200 for motor/ loom/ computer and gearbox.
7k....... $2500 for engine
Trusty 5k $300
The 4age has 132k on it and the box will fit where the K50 sits now. Will need wiring and new mounts too. (thanks bazooka)
7k seems expensive but is a bit easier, just needs wiring.
5k is cheap but I'll just want to rip it out later Could add injection etc but is a real "bitsa" then (thanks ogre)
Had a good look and the transfer has not been moved which opens up heaps more options..................... Like the vitara.................. More research
mj wrote:Had a good look and the transfer has not been moved which opens up heaps more options..................... Like the vitara..................
Pleasant reminder to go here:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... highlight=
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Been there done that About 30 seconds ago
Since you're such a good bloke greg /ass-kissin emoticon\ I've got questions bout the vit conversion too..................
If I have the k50 toy box and my zook was a 1l originally will the 1.3 suzuki box bolt right in or not..... guessing not
Also wiring....... will my 1l toyota raped electricals match up with the 1.6 conversion in that thread or will I need to start from scratch
This is frustrating....... wish the 3k wasn't there
Since you're such a good bloke greg /ass-kissin emoticon\ I've got questions bout the vit conversion too..................
If I have the k50 toy box and my zook was a 1l originally will the 1.3 suzuki box bolt right in or not..... guessing not
Also wiring....... will my 1l toyota raped electricals match up with the 1.6 conversion in that thread or will I need to start from scratch
This is frustrating....... wish the 3k wasn't there
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