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better diff? 10 or 24 spline.

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

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better diff? 10 or 24 spline.

Post by zook4fun »

ok i have a 10 spline 78 rrc front diff and a 96 disco 24 spline diff. what is the better diff to keep for a 80/ lux center conversion down the track. i keep finding things saying i need the 24 spling hubs for the conversion then that i need to go custom hubs for the conversion.

the 10 spline is in the car, the 24 i have to rebuild the brakes and hubs and in in a rrc i'm wrecking.

the car will be driven for about 3 months before i do the conversion with 31" wheels.
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Post by Grover-98 »

24 would be better.
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Post by zook4fun »

why?

do i use the hubs or is it just the diff and axles as stronger till i swap centers out?
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Post by TimRover »

Yes 24spline are stronger.

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Post by Slunnie »

I didn't think that it mattered unless you changed the Toy diff sides to 24 spline. Don't all of the parts that are relevant to a Toy conversion get replaced or machined out anyway.
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Post by lokka »

neiter are any good the centers are shyte the only thing ya keep for toy conversion is the axle housings and the stubs and hubs also the front swivels the stubs have to be bored out a tad to take the thicker toyo axles and ya need to use late moddle 95ish on hubs and stubs both up front and back
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Post by Strange Rover »

My understanding is that the 10 spline is the better diff to do the conversion because it had better CVs...

That being said you can still convert the disco diff to the came CVs as the rangie 10 spliner diff.

You can also convert either diff to toyota cvs.

If it was me I would just run the 10 spliner diff till you do the conversion and then swap all the good gear in...no point playing aound with the 24 spliner cause you will swap all the 24 spline stuff out anyway.

Maybe the 24 spliner has better brakes and rotors?? but you can swap these onto the 10 spliner anyway.

Maybe the 24 spliner has better ground clearance...can always shave the 10 spliner or when you do the conversion use the disco housing.

Either way I wouldnt swap anything out untill you do the conversion and then when you build the new axle just pick the best bits from what you got (which would be the 24 spline housing with the 10 spline outers...unless you run toy CVs then it doesent matter what outers you use cause there would be machine work to run wither setup.

Basically there is lots of ways to mix and match.

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Post by Merv »

If you use the Rover Tracks Toy conversion you will need to use the hubs and stub axles off the Disco 24 spline. They are shorter then the 10 spline.

We did our conversion using 10 spline diff housings and had to buy hubs and stub axles.
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Post by zook4fun »

Merv wrote:If you use the Rover Tracks Toy conversion you will need to use the hubs and stub axles off the Disco 24 spline. They are shorter then the 10 spline.

We did our conversion using 10 spline diff housings and had to buy hubs and stub axles.
thanks, thats what i needed to know.
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Post by uninformed »

why do you have to use 24 spline hubs?

early rangerover hubs are better as the wheel bearings are further apart.

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Post by HSV Rangie »

when I converted mine 1986 RR I used the hubs and stubs from it.

Jac mac axles.
Toy cv,

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Post by cloughy »

uninformed wrote:why do you have to use 24 spline hubs?

early rangerover hubs are better as the wheel bearings are further apart.

Serg
Because that's what rovertracks make they're axles to suit, Jacmac makes either ;)

I think its to do with the availability of rover diff set ups from different years in the states :roll:
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Post by uninformed »

so its simply axle lenght?

it would be interesting to see if Hi Tough Eng would make axles to suit the toy swap...so you could use the toy center, early hubs and spindles(stub axles) and get some nice hytuf axles

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Post by zook4fun »

cloughy wrote:
uninformed wrote:why do you have to use 24 spline hubs?

early rangerover hubs are better as the wheel bearings are further apart.

Serg
Because that's what rovertracks make they're axles to suit, Jacmac makes either ;)
this must be why i'm having problems with finding out what i need.

if the early 10 spling bearings are further apart does that mean there is a different track width on the diff?
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Post by lokka »

cloughy wrote:
uninformed wrote:why do you have to use 24 spline hubs?

early rangerover hubs are better as the wheel bearings are further apart.

Serg
Because that's what rovertracks make they're axles to suit, Jacmac makes either ;)

I think its to do with the availability of rover diff set ups from different years in the states :roll:
it's to do with the CV's rover tracks use there basicly a hilux cv on a rover length lux axle the CV is about the same size as the late D1 CV and is 30 spline on the drive end same as the in the diff and comes with a LR style drive flange splined to suite the 30 spline CV to use these about 1.5 mm needs to be taken out of the inside diameter of the stubs (same for rear also) and the front stubs have a new bush fitted to take the toyo style CV ...
The 24 spline rover tracks longs which are now unavailable from rover tracks are virtualy the same thing they just have the axle diameter reduced to suit the rover so there a straight drop in but also required the shorter stubs ....
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Post by uninformed »

lokka wrote:
cloughy wrote:
uninformed wrote:why do you have to use 24 spline hubs?

early rangerover hubs are better as the wheel bearings are further apart.

Serg
Because that's what rovertracks make they're axles to suit, Jacmac makes either ;)

I think its to do with the availability of rover diff set ups from different years in the states :roll:
it's to do with the CV's rover tracks use there basicly a hilux cv on a rover length lux axle the CV is about the same size as the late D1 CV and is 30 spline on the drive end same as the in the diff and comes with a LR style drive flange splined to suite the 30 spline CV to use these about 1.5 mm needs to be taken out of the inside diameter of the stubs (same for rear also) and the front stubs have a new bush fitted to take the toyo style CV ...
The 24 spline rover tracks longs which are now unavailable from rover tracks are virtualy the same thing they just have the axle diameter reduced to suit the rover so there a straight drop in but also required the shorter stubs ....

sorry not quite getting what your saying...

is it because the Rovertracks CV lenght? which i presume is a longfield cv...

as far as there being a wheel track width difference... no, its just inside the hub that the bearings are further apart, the axle casing is still the same width, the spindle still bolts up the same and the hub mounts as per normal, so the wheel mounting surface is still the same...

what im getting at is, i think you could put together a kit yourself with out having to import Rovertracks stuff. we have Toy diffs here, we have Jacmac and Hi Tough that would make axles for you...

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Post by lokka »

uninformed wrote:
lokka wrote:
cloughy wrote:
uninformed wrote:why do you have to use 24 spline hubs?

early rangerover hubs are better as the wheel bearings are further apart.

Serg
Because that's what rovertracks make they're axles to suit, Jacmac makes either ;)

I think its to do with the availability of rover diff set ups from different years in the states :roll:
it's to do with the CV's rover tracks use there basicly a hilux cv on a rover length lux axle the CV is about the same size as the late D1 CV and is 30 spline on the drive end same as the in the diff and comes with a LR style drive flange splined to suite the 30 spline CV to use these about 1.5 mm needs to be taken out of the inside diameter of the stubs (same for rear also) and the front stubs have a new bush fitted to take the toyo style CV ...
The 24 spline rover tracks longs which are now unavailable from rover tracks are virtualy the same thing they just have the axle diameter reduced to suit the rover so there a straight drop in but also required the shorter stubs ....

sorry not quite getting what your saying...

is it because the Rovertracks CV lenght? which i presume is a longfield cv...

as far as there being a wheel track width difference... no, its just inside the hub that the bearings are further apart, the axle casing is still the same width, the spindle still bolts up the same and the hub mounts as per normal, so the wheel mounting surface is still the same...

what im getting at is, i think you could put together a kit yourself with out having to import Rovertracks stuff. we have Toy diffs here, we have Jacmac and Hi Tough that would make axles for you...

Serg
yep ya could make the same stuff as rover tracks do here from parts from jacmac or hy tough imsure its been done before and has worked well ....
Its just the CV rover tracks use is a longfeild type and is basicly a LUX CV which is near the same size as the late D! CV hence why ya need to use the shorter stubs and hubs ...
Cheers

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Post by red90 »

Rovertracks was selling 300M CV joints that were the correct size for late model axles with 4340 shafts for $660 USD with zero modification required. It was a great deal.

http://www.rovertracks.com/products/axles.html

They stopped selling them because Ashcroft forced the manufacturer to only sell to him.

Apparently, they are close to having a new manufacturer produce them.
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