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NH Pajero Factory Rear Diff Lock
Moderator: -Scott-
NH Pajero Factory Rear Diff Lock
Hey Guys,
First post on here so go easy.
Recently bought a 91 NH Pajero that has the factory mitsi rear diff lock which works great, just wondering if anyone knows how to by pass the switching mechanisim so it can be engaged when just in 2wd, car is doing a fair amount of beach work so would just be good to have it as the one wheeler in medium sand just doesnt do it any justice.
I realise the risks etc in this but the bypass switch will be up and out of reach, and I am the only driver.
I have searched about but cannot find a specifc guide as such.
Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Brent
First post on here so go easy.
Recently bought a 91 NH Pajero that has the factory mitsi rear diff lock which works great, just wondering if anyone knows how to by pass the switching mechanisim so it can be engaged when just in 2wd, car is doing a fair amount of beach work so would just be good to have it as the one wheeler in medium sand just doesnt do it any justice.
I realise the risks etc in this but the bypass switch will be up and out of reach, and I am the only driver.
I have searched about but cannot find a specifc guide as such.
Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Brent
its very easy...and fun too ...find your compressor splice into the red wire,
run a new wire from where you spliced it to where you want to put the new switch (i put mine in one of the blank spots inside my dash where the switch for the doubble park blinkers is) then with a test light find a constant positive power (spliced into wire for doubble park blinkers) you could get it from anywhere radio, lights or even strait from battery...at this point you just use the switch just like a circit breaker..when its on it completes the circut when its off it breaks it...really easy...now you have a fun car to drive in 2wd...my switch is just a standard narva 12v switch it also has a light on it when its on the light is on its a sturdy kind of one so it cant really be turned on/off unless you really mean it
run a new wire from where you spliced it to where you want to put the new switch (i put mine in one of the blank spots inside my dash where the switch for the doubble park blinkers is) then with a test light find a constant positive power (spliced into wire for doubble park blinkers) you could get it from anywhere radio, lights or even strait from battery...at this point you just use the switch just like a circit breaker..when its on it completes the circut when its off it breaks it...really easy...now you have a fun car to drive in 2wd...my switch is just a standard narva 12v switch it also has a light on it when its on the light is on its a sturdy kind of one so it cant really be turned on/off unless you really mean it
j-top 3l v6 2+2 33s rear locker 4.9s thats it
well not really like a remote to an amp...but yeah once its on it stays on and maintains pressure.....id just splice into the wire not cut it completely so if you ever want to use it normally you can just use your normal switch or when you sell the car just take out the switch so no one knows what you have been up too....its fun...just be careful
j-top 3l v6 2+2 33s rear locker 4.9s thats it
diff lock
and then you break ya diff from being a silly bugger doing skids on the bitchy,lol then your on here lookin for a new diff,then everyone laughs at you cause there so hard to get,then you just put a shitty one wheeler back in,and then ya back to one wheel on the beach,gl with that you should respect that diff.i have done some awsome off road driving that some people wouldnt think a pajero could do.and its cause i use it right but hey its your car.
cool thanks mate, appreciate you help.
pom30 who said anything about doing skids on the roads?.... I want to manually lock so it can be used in situations where you dont neeed to be engaged 4wd lc....
Im no stranger to mitisi's and there drive lines, had a plenty of vr4's. If you want to break diffs and transfer cases happy enough to teach you...
pom30 who said anything about doing skids on the roads?.... I want to manually lock so it can be used in situations where you dont neeed to be engaged 4wd lc....
Im no stranger to mitisi's and there drive lines, had a plenty of vr4's. If you want to break diffs and transfer cases happy enough to teach you...
i personally wouldnt bother doing it.
when i drove my j top on the sand i just used 4 high open and it was fine...
2wd on sand is just going to get the back to bog down, open, limo or locked
when i drove my j top on the sand i just used 4 high open and it was fine...
2wd on sand is just going to get the back to bog down, open, limo or locked
my GUBanzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
-Scott- wrote:I've never understood people who buy a 4wd, then don't want to use it.
go for a drive through shitney on a friday/saturday night Scott....
a few weekends ago i was riding though and the amount of 4wd "posers" i saw was unbeleivable
spoke to a guy in a lifted (and tidy) 40 series running 42s, and asked him when was the last tim he "locked the hubs"....
answer was "lock the whats??? "
i asked about when he last drove it in the bush and he just looked at me strangely and told me it was just a "show car"
i felt like grabbing his "P" plates and raming them up his arse
my GUBanzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
hehehehe.. ..you guys are right....sorry i was just answering his question because iv had to do it as my switch stopped working but if its working fine what else would you use it for??? i admit to checking if it works by a little ass flick here and there...but only for usefull purposeses...i only engage it when i really have to as its an expenseve and rare unit to replace and wanna have a fun and reliablr 4x4 when im in the middle of the bush.........maybe he really does have a good use for it other than what i said before but its putting unneccersary strain on the diff for nothing in 2wd.....but like i said before each to their own i dont let the little things bother me...what bike you got jtop??we may have to go wheelin and riding someday when i get my licence back
j-top 3l v6 2+2 33s rear locker 4.9s thats it
i ride a VFR regularily and a XR400 on the weekends...jonnyjtop wrote:what bike you got jtop??we may have to go wheelin and riding someday when i get my licence back
jump online if your want...
http://nswriders.motionforum.net/forum.htm
my GUBanzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
Sorry - didn't really put that too well. Yes, I understand there's the poser crowd who won't ever see dirt, much less need 4wd. But I can't understand the crowd who happily take their 4wd offroad, but don't want to use 4wd when they do it.j-top paj wrote:-Scott- wrote:I've never understood people who buy a 4wd, then don't want to use it.
go for a drive through shitney on a friday/saturday night Scott....
What is that?
just go get an ARB switchLordMayhem wrote:hi guys new here. just wondering. i have a nh pajero and my rear diff lock switch is stuffed. does anyone know what type of after market switch i need to replace it and how to wire in the new switch??
Thanks Jamie
'98 4.5L GU ST Auto - lifted, 35's, re-geared, custom rock sliders,M winchbar, some custom parts & more to come.
V8 pajero comp truck
V8 pajero comp truck
And then wonder why it won't work.OGJON wrote:just go get an ARB switchLordMayhem wrote:hi guys new here. just wondering. i have a nh pajero and my rear diff lock switch is stuffed. does anyone know what type of after market switch i need to replace it and how to wire in the new switch??
Thanks Jamie
Or do this as written above.
its very easy...and fun too ...find your compressor splice into the red wire,
run a new wire from where you spliced it to where you want to put the new switch (i put mine in one of the blank spots inside my dash where the switch for the doubble park blinkers is) then with a test light find a constant positive power (spliced into wire for doubble park blinkers) you could get it from anywhere radio, lights or even strait from battery...at this point you just use the switch just like a circit breaker..when its on it completes the circut when its off it breaks it...really easy...now you have a fun car to drive in 2wd...my switch is just a standard narva 12v switch it also has a light on it when its on the light is on its a sturdy kind of one so it cant really be turned on/off unless you really mean it
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
NJV6 wrote:And then wonder why it won't work.OGJON wrote:just go get an ARB switchLordMayhem wrote:hi guys new here. just wondering. i have a nh pajero and my rear diff lock switch is stuffed. does anyone know what type of after market switch i need to replace it and how to wire in the new switch??
Thanks Jamie
Or do this as written above.
its very easy...and fun too ...find your compressor splice into the red wire,
run a new wire from where you spliced it to where you want to put the new switch (i put mine in one of the blank spots inside my dash where the switch for the doubble park blinkers is) then with a test light find a constant positive power (spliced into wire for doubble park blinkers) you could get it from anywhere radio, lights or even strait from battery...at this point you just use the switch just like a circit breaker..when its on it completes the circut when its off it breaks it...really easy...now you have a fun car to drive in 2wd...my switch is just a standard narva 12v switch it also has a light on it when its on the light is on its a sturdy kind of one so it cant really be turned on/off unless you really mean it
hi you wouldn't know which red wire?? as i have opened the wiring loom that runs into the pump and there are a few red wires..... lol
Your right, the pump is under there but there is only 2 wires to the pump.LordMayhem wrote:the pump is located under the back seat on drivers side behind the little access panel and there is a whole heap of wires (like a good fist full thick) going there....or do i have the wrong position???NJV6 wrote:There are only two wires that go to the pump. And one of them is Red
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
ok maybe i need to remove the little guard to it to work out what ones go to the pump itself out of this handful thick loom of wires thanks mateNJV6 wrote:Your right, the pump is under there but there is only 2 wires to the pump.LordMayhem wrote:the pump is located under the back seat on drivers side behind the little access panel and there is a whole heap of wires (like a good fist full thick) going there....or do i have the wrong position???NJV6 wrote:There are only two wires that go to the pump. And one of them is Red
G'day - Before doing this mod, can i have some help with a bit of fault finding.
My jtop diff lock is sometimes hard to get activated and is turning itself off a fair bit - not real good in most situations!
I am assuming that i have a transfer or front diff switch playing up.
Anyone know the diff lock electrics?
Thanks
Mark
My jtop diff lock is sometimes hard to get activated and is turning itself off a fair bit - not real good in most situations!
I am assuming that i have a transfer or front diff switch playing up.
Anyone know the diff lock electrics?
Thanks
Mark
getting it to engage: roll the car forward or backward a little bit and it should engage.
turning itself off: dunno, is it just the light going out or can you feel it disengage?
what speeds are you doing when it switches off?
turning itself off: dunno, is it just the light going out or can you feel it disengage?
what speeds are you doing when it switches off?
my GUBanzy wrote:Dial up internet.........you'd post something and come back 2 beers later to see if it loaded.
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