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Superior Long Arms?
Superior Long Arms?
I just found these long arms on suspenion stuffs web site. I have never heard about these long arms before and I did search and nothing came up. Is anyone running these long arms?
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop ... hukjp9jpo3
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop ... hukjp9jpo3
I haven't sold many. Maybe Superior has. But every dude at Tuff Truck has some kind of long arm system.
You get less bump rear steer and better and more traction when 4WDing and a nicer ride on road. One of the reasons the Rangie has a nicer ride then the Patrol is because of the longer and more level trailing arms.
Shane
You get less bump rear steer and better and more traction when 4WDing and a nicer ride on road. One of the reasons the Rangie has a nicer ride then the Patrol is because of the longer and more level trailing arms.
Shane
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Nar m8 the kit comes with new control arm mounts cut ur old 1s off weld the new 1s on 300mm foward on the chasis top arms dont change but dont fit a shorty unless u move he diff shock and spring mounts backmud_runner_GQ wrote:when you run a long arm kit, wont it move you diff back so you need to move your shock and spring monts??
SWB GQ TD42 Turbo and plenty of panel damage.
There was a thread a while back about winch challenge suspension setups that went into the development of the long arm kit regarding squat characharistics.
1madengineer had a bit to do with it that i think. Their R&D was pretty impressive and for real world application Robbie Marshall seems to do extremely well with them.
I have micks old set and the flex is that good i'll be buying 16" shocks with limit straps and spacing them as wide as possible at the top.
The kit comes with new front mounts that are welded in foward of the old ones.
If any one has a set of mounting instructions could you pm me the measurement of where to weld the front mount.
cheers smitty
1madengineer had a bit to do with it that i think. Their R&D was pretty impressive and for real world application Robbie Marshall seems to do extremely well with them.
I have micks old set and the flex is that good i'll be buying 16" shocks with limit straps and spacing them as wide as possible at the top.
The kit comes with new front mounts that are welded in foward of the old ones.
If any one has a set of mounting instructions could you pm me the measurement of where to weld the front mount.
cheers smitty
innovation is better, better is faster, and fast is all that counts
Banned
Massively long lower arms and stock length uppers?
I don't know how well the stock length arms deal with pinion angle throughout the suspension cycle, but usually really long lowers and short uppers induces bad pinion angles at full flex.
Also won't lengthing only the lowers with stock length uppers lower your anti squat %? causing the rear to unload when power is applied?
I don't know how well the stock length arms deal with pinion angle throughout the suspension cycle, but usually really long lowers and short uppers induces bad pinion angles at full flex.
Also won't lengthing only the lowers with stock length uppers lower your anti squat %? causing the rear to unload when power is applied?
There's a very simple way of doing it which requires no real measuring. All you do is put your uppers arms in, set your pinion where you want it by moving the rear wheels or using a jack to lift your pinion a little in need be. Once your happy with your pinion angle bolt the arms onto the diff end. Then bolt the chassis mounts to your arms and lift the arms up to the chassis and this will give you the exact spot to weld the mounts.hammey wrote:There was a thread a while back about winch challenge suspension setups that went into the development of the long arm kit regarding squat characharistics.
1madengineer had a bit to do with it that i think. Their R&D was pretty impressive and for real world application Robbie Marshall seems to do extremely well with them.
I have micks old set and the flex is that good i'll be buying 16" shocks with limit straps and spacing them as wide as possible at the top.
The kit comes with new front mounts that are welded in foward of the old ones.
If any one has a set of mounting instructions could you pm me the measurement of where to weld the front mount.
cheers smitty
Cheers Mick.
Using a long arm setup moves the IC forward and down, which helps ride and putting power to the ground. And almost gets rid of the annoying diff steer when flexing, and the 'jacking' effect when 'powering on' around a corner! and the diff trying to drive itself under the back of the car.
To explain it a little better. Ideally between 30 and 70% antisquat is considered ideal for most offroad conditions. This is so that there is JUST enough resistance to compression to stop your bum dragging and not TOO much that it resists EVERY bump and punchs out your spine. Simple way to describe it is if you imagine the 6" lifted bottom arms, they stick up and ~20deg so there is quite a lot of 'verticle component' to resist the downward force, where a long flat arm allows the end to swing verticly very easily. (try pushing on the end of a near verticle rod!) When you have a lot of anti-squat the suspension is pushing UP a lot which fights the free range of movement, which in turn gives a terrible ride and doesn't allow the rear end to compress or extend and soak up bumps. 99% of all offroad race trucks use long flat rear suspension, AND so did your GQ/GU when it was stock!
this is the geometry of a 4.5-5" lifted GQ/GU with STD rear arms.
this is the geometry of a 4.5-5" lifted GQ/GU with Superior LongArms.
It doesn't really take Einstein to work out which would make for the better ride!!
hope that helps a bit.
To explain it a little better. Ideally between 30 and 70% antisquat is considered ideal for most offroad conditions. This is so that there is JUST enough resistance to compression to stop your bum dragging and not TOO much that it resists EVERY bump and punchs out your spine. Simple way to describe it is if you imagine the 6" lifted bottom arms, they stick up and ~20deg so there is quite a lot of 'verticle component' to resist the downward force, where a long flat arm allows the end to swing verticly very easily. (try pushing on the end of a near verticle rod!) When you have a lot of anti-squat the suspension is pushing UP a lot which fights the free range of movement, which in turn gives a terrible ride and doesn't allow the rear end to compress or extend and soak up bumps. 99% of all offroad race trucks use long flat rear suspension, AND so did your GQ/GU when it was stock!
this is the geometry of a 4.5-5" lifted GQ/GU with STD rear arms.
this is the geometry of a 4.5-5" lifted GQ/GU with Superior LongArms.
It doesn't really take Einstein to work out which would make for the better ride!!
hope that helps a bit.
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Banned
Yea, thanks for posting up the calculator numbers 1MadEngineer.lukethedork wrote:Massively long lower arms and stock length uppers?
I don't know how well the stock length arms deal with pinion angle throughout the suspension cycle, but usually really long lowers and short uppers induces bad pinion angles at full flex.
Also won't lengthing only the lowers with stock length uppers lower your anti squat %? causing the rear to unload when power is applied?
Re-reading my post I don't know what I was thinking saying that lower anti squat would cause you to unload, since lower anti squat means more squat. I think I was not thinking right.
But still with lowers that are over double the length of the uppers, It looks like to me that you would have some VERY bad pinion angles.
Does anyone have a picture of full flex with long arm lowers? I want to see this pinion....
Full travel out of 18" FOA remote res shocks, and sweet angles!lukethedork wrote:Yea, thanks for posting up the calculator numbers 1MadEngineer.lukethedork wrote:Massively long lower arms and stock length uppers?
I don't know how well the stock length arms deal with pinion angle throughout the suspension cycle, but usually really long lowers and short uppers induces bad pinion angles at full flex.
Also won't lengthing only the lowers with stock length uppers lower your anti squat %? causing the rear to unload when power is applied?
Re-reading my post I don't know what I was thinking saying that lower anti squat would cause you to unload, since lower anti squat means more squat. I think I was not thinking right.
But still with lowers that are over double the length of the uppers, It looks like to me that you would have some VERY bad pinion angles.
Does anyone have a picture of full flex with long arm lowers? I want to see this pinion....
Hope that helps, i think i have more but i would have to search at home.
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a great tech article about suspension geometry!
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=701536
enjoy reading!
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=701536
enjoy reading!
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I still dont follow what you mean If you have longer lower arms, and move the mounts accordingly, how does this affect the pinion angle? (I'm no engineer so need it explained )lukethedork wrote: But still with lowers that are over double the length of the uppers, It looks like to me that you would have some VERY bad pinion angles.
Banned
I'm suprised all looks good in those pictures 1madengineer, are they stock length upper arms?
Kiwi.
When you put in longer lower control arms they move in a bigger arc, But the upper arms are still moving in the same arc as before. This means when the suspension goes through its travel, the pinion angle change will be different than it was with the stock lower control arms.
At normal ride height on level ground you will have the same pinion angle since you moved the mounting point on the chassis, as you said.
Luke.
Kiwi.
When you put in longer lower control arms they move in a bigger arc, But the upper arms are still moving in the same arc as before. This means when the suspension goes through its travel, the pinion angle change will be different than it was with the stock lower control arms.
At normal ride height on level ground you will have the same pinion angle since you moved the mounting point on the chassis, as you said.
Luke.
luke,lukethedork wrote:I'm suprised all looks good in those pictures 1madengineer, are they stock length upper arms?
yeah stock uppers! I know its not perfect but for such a simple mod it works so well.... This design came about from supposed 'experts' telling us that you had to have an A frame in the rear to get good flex. So we got one and tried it / measured it and then laughed at it then we started cutting and welding and making different 'test' links. and came up with these. They just flexed amazing, and drove so well, they just put the power to the ground that much better. The hardest part is finding long enough travel shocks! with stock top arms and factory nissan bushs they can easily use up 18" travel shocks.
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A good reason to go with the long arm kits is the longer lower arms reduce the amount of rear steer. which causes the tire to roll forward under the truck when flexed.
This is with out the long arms, see how far forward the diff is...
On the other side the tire is pushed back into the back of the Gard.
With a long arm equipped truck the tires wont rub as badly (due to less rear steer) which means you can get even more flex before scrubbing tires
Do you have any photos with long arm showing tire / Gard clearance 1MadEngineer
michael.
This is with out the long arms, see how far forward the diff is...
On the other side the tire is pushed back into the back of the Gard.
With a long arm equipped truck the tires wont rub as badly (due to less rear steer) which means you can get even more flex before scrubbing tires
Do you have any photos with long arm showing tire / Gard clearance 1MadEngineer
michael.
whitemav wrote: Did I get my answer ? Yes, in 2 post's out of 4 pages of which half are utter bull shit and off topic nit picking.
Hey Shane, maybe you could do a special deal so you can sell some more long arm kits....... I have though about them..... I bough the Superior 15mm longer lowers off you a while ago.
2001 GU Patrol DX wagon, TD42, Air Lockers, twin spare carrier, Barrett HF, 35" Treps, high pinion rear, Staun beadlocks, 60l Engel and more!
Banned
This is a special deal https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop ... cts_id=773 and it includes freight. Superior put the price up without telling me. By the time you include freight it is a saving of $65.A.J. wrote:Hey Shane, maybe you could do a special deal so you can sell some more long arm kits....... I have thought about them..... I bought the Superior 15mm longer lowers off you a while ago.
On a side note. Longer lower arms might make a bigger difference to flex then an A frame setup and should be your first purchase, however, I reckon there is still a case to run both a long arm kit and an A frame setup. After driving a range rover you can appreciated the extra comfort of the setup.
Shane
We sell SUSPENSION - PRICES on
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About shocks to suit the rear of a long arm kit, the Boss adjustable shocks with a 17.27" stroke will be available in a week or 2.
The extended length is 1058mm and the compressed length is 617mm.
You will definitely need to move shock mounts. I think we will send them out with heim joints because of the massive side loading through bushes.
These are some of the other lengths available in both eye eye and pin pin.
904
540
828
502
748
462
728
452
713
444
694
435
Shane
The extended length is 1058mm and the compressed length is 617mm.
You will definitely need to move shock mounts. I think we will send them out with heim joints because of the massive side loading through bushes.
These are some of the other lengths available in both eye eye and pin pin.
904
540
828
502
748
462
728
452
713
444
694
435
Shane
We sell SUSPENSION - PRICES on
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Free Freight 1300 048 991
FLEXY COILS - Superior Engineering - TIGERZ11 - Tough Dog - PROCOMP - Polyair - ETC
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Free Freight 1300 048 991
FLEXY COILS - Superior Engineering - TIGERZ11 - Tough Dog - PROCOMP - Polyair - ETC
Yes a long arm setup will have approx 1.5 degrees more pinion angle change difference over stock when compared in pure bump/droop. But in flex conditions which is 99% percent of the time it is better than stock, not everyone gets air time and then lands with full compression till it bottoms out the shocks. The critical stuff is how it rides and how it puts down the power. ps edit you drawing to include bump, not just drooplukethedork wrote: Please explain to me.
Shane, Aframes are fine when they are designed properly! problem is most available ones just bolt into the stock mounting points, which really does nothing to address the nissan geometry. It would be nice if they were 10" longer like the rangie ones and had the top chassis mounting points modified to suit .
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Don't just sit there, start designing some. I have faith in you. I think it would be worth it.1MadEngineer wrote:Shane, Aframes are fine when they are designed properly! problem is most available ones just bolt into the stock mounting points, which really does nothing to address the nissan geometry. It would be nice if they were 10" longer like the rangie ones and had the top chassis mounting points modified to suit .lukethedork wrote: Please explain to me.
We sell SUSPENSION - PRICES on
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Free Freight 1300 048 991
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Free Freight 1300 048 991
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Great news. This would be better then the A-frame setup and would achieve the same goal but with more flex potential.1MadEngineer wrote:4link top arm kit first4WD Stuff wrote:Don't just sit there, start designing some. I have faith in you. I think it would be worth it.
Let us know when you have perfected it.
This sounds more and more like Buggy suspension.
Shane
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Free Freight 1300 048 991
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Free Freight 1300 048 991
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Once you get that working well you can start working on this suspension on full bodied rigs. http://www.pirate4x4.com/gallery/main.p ... w_koh_rig/
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Free Freight 1300 048 991
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This is a question based on something I noticed on the weekend
With the long arm set up when climbing square steps the arms hit the rock edge and start to lift the weight off the rear wheels before the wheel has a chance to touch and climb the step
And some times lift the wheel off the ground all together
because the arm is lower down further forward between the wheel base
what you think?
With the long arm set up when climbing square steps the arms hit the rock edge and start to lift the weight off the rear wheels before the wheel has a chance to touch and climb the step
And some times lift the wheel off the ground all together
because the arm is lower down further forward between the wheel base
what you think?
I noticed this while watching Tuff truck DVD's. My theory is that it isn't perfect but the best solution so far. Maybe that is why in my last post they have gone independant with the Buggy.wyliespatrol wrote:This is a question based on something I noticed on the weekend
With the long arm set up when climbing square steps the arms hit the rock edge and start to lift the weight off the rear wheels before the wheel has a chance to touch and climb the step
And some times lift the wheel off the ground all together
because the arm is lower down further forward between the wheel base
what you think?
Shane
We sell SUSPENSION - PRICES on
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Free Freight 1300 048 991
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https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Free Freight 1300 048 991
FLEXY COILS - Superior Engineering - TIGERZ11 - Tough Dog - PROCOMP - Polyair - ETC
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