Runva 10,000lb Hydraulic Winch Install

[Dirty]

I took the dive and grabbed a Runva 10,000lb winch from Diecrest a couple of months back. They do (where) also sold on ebay, but at the same price as turning up to their door.

Specs on the Runva winches can be found at their web site http://www.runva.com and Diecrest import a variety of electronic and hydraulic winches from the range.

These are a Chinese winch, and pretty much a direct copy of a warn from what I can tell. The motor is also a copy (actually has the logos) Danfrost unit.

This is what you get as a kit from Diecrest:


Note that there is a aluminium counter balance valve block in the photo. This doesn't come standard, but can be purchased separately at a fraction of the cost from your local hydraulic store.

I am running this off the power steering pump and chose to remove the factory cooler and made up my own with a Serek cooler and standard industrial filter. The main decision for the filter was to add around an extra 0.5L of fluid to the system, this was also the case with the large cooler.

This is the cooler/filter arrangement with the mounts to go over the A/C fan.


This was mounted over the A/C fan, I modified the existing grill mount and used a second grill mount from the right hand side to hold it in there.


The valve block was mounted next to the factory battery and all plumbed up by a local hydraulic shop.


The only item that was missing from the kit was a normally open valve to shut off flow to the power steering box when the pump was in use. Other than that it was all reasonably straight forward. The main problem encountered was that the fitting on the Serek oil filter on only pressed in with a little bit of solder, TIGed them up and all it good.

As for costs:

• Winch kit (10,000lb) $825
  Counter Balance Valve $160
  Plumbing, filter, N/O Vavle $1,000
  Oil Cooler $300

At this stage have only re-spooled the rope and it runs at about 2m/min but will now look at speeding up the P/S pump and see if a little extra pace can be found.

Will give it a bit of a work-out this weekend pulling some tree over out the back.

- David.

[raptorthumper]

Looks good dave. I am installing the same winch from the same guy (Diecrest on ebay) at Harcourt VIC. I am waiting on some brackets to be laser cut to mount the high flow pump which is a Vickers Power Steering Pump VTM426075 series with electric clutch [19.6cc/rev, 7.5 GPM (28.38 LPM) @ 1500rpm biggest version]

This pump should do 5m/min at 1600 rpm engine speed or 7.5m/min @ 2400 rpm. I will post pics when completed.









_________________

[Dirty]

Looks good dave. I am installing the same winch from the same guy (Diecrest on ebay) at Harcourt VIC. I am waiting on some brackets to be laser cut to mount the high flow pump which is a Vickers Power Steering Pump VTM426075 series with electric clutch [19.6cc/rev, 7.5 GPM (28.38 LPM) @ 1500rpm biggest version]

This pump should do 5m/min at 1600 rpm engine speed or 7.5m/min @ 2400 rpm. I will post pics when completed.

But you must be running that pump in addition to the PS pump.

I don't have room for a second pump in the engine bay, and although the ideal of a PTO powered one it good, cannot be stuffed with all the messing around, it isn't for a comp. truck.


When I get a spare weekend I am going to see if I can get the ports larger on the Nissan PS pump and put on a smaller pulley to speed the whole thing up. Also a little more pressure but the single belt drive will limit how far this can all go.

- David.

[narnturbogq]

I have embarked on a hydraulic winch setup of my own,on my gq. Im running a TJM OX (mile marker) 2 speed winch. I've got a custom setup with a remote reservoir (approx. 5/6 ltr), with a cooler plumbed in on the return line, remote solenoids and a counterbalance valve mounted on motor.

I am using a modified Saginaw powersteering pump (vt commodore) to run the winch (in addition to factory pump). I am running the pump of the crack at about 1.5:1 to try and get more flow. I have modified the pressure relief valve to get higher than factory 1150 psi, and i guess that it would be pushing around 1700/1800 psi now. There is a small amount belt slip, only after alot of winching, i need to put a threaded tensioner to keep the belt tight.

I have tried drilling the flow control ports out 3mm bigger to increase flow and have had little success, as the pump starts to cavitate above 2000 rpm, whining like a fire alarm, and the cable speed was only slightly improved.

The winch is awesomely powerful, so much so that the last time i used it (on Ellis Tk) it tried to pull an un movable rock out and broke the bar off, but is painfully slow.

The only way i can get faster line speed is to change to a hydraulic gear pump with an electric clutch and 1/2 inch lines. There is a link to a thread on one of raptorthumpers other threads, with the kind of setup required.

Dirty, there would little gained from speeding up your pump and modifying the ports, i have tried this on two different pumps so far with no success, you may have to live with the line speed you have.

Good luck boys, i hope this helps you out. -Andrew (narnturbogq)

[Dirty]

Andrew,

Thanks for you input.

From what you are saying I need to replace the whole PS pump with one that will flow more if I want increased speed.

At this stage I have other areas of the vehicle to play with but will get back to this at a later date.

I have an endless air in the only real spot for an additional pump, and because of the current belt configuration can only run one belt to the PS pump.

This still needs some thinking time.

- David.

[raptorthumper]

I have an endless air in the only real spot for an additional pump, and because of the current belt configuration can only run one belt to the PS pump.

You would be surprised how much power a single V belt can transmit. My 18.5 Hp John Deere rideon Mower has a smaller cross section (single) belt than the one used on the GU TB45's a/c compressor.

The brackets i am getting laser cut, are to put the Vickers pump in the spot where the a/c compressor used to be. (When i broke a conrod with the old motor, the conrod punched the a/c compresssor off and broke the mounting lugs) BUT possibly i have room to fit the pump in another spot so i can keep the a/c. I will have a more in depth look at my options i suppose.

What engine do you have in your GU Dave.? I am guessing TD42T

[narnturbogq]

Raptorthumper is right about the ability of a single belt to transfer power. My pump is being run by a single 11A class belt (the smallest automotive belt available), and i'm running a much higher pressure relief setting.

The main limiting factor involved with the power transmission side of things is psi, not flow so much. The higher the psi the harder the belt is worked.

When the winch broke my bar off, it was still pulling hard (single line pull)and hadn't popped the pressure relief open (when this happens the winch stops pulling and to oil is redirected within the pump), and my mates 6HP warn highmount (production class setup, twin batteries,big cables etc) couldn't even budge me, even with him wedged up against a massive gum.

Tjm ox winches (mile marker) have their line pull ratings measured at 1100 psi so if you up the pressures you also up the line pull rating. So at 1700 psi the line pull rating would go up to 15500lbs from 10000lbs. It would be interesting to know what pressure the Runva winches are rated at.

Im not sure how much room you have between the fan and the harmonic balancer, but on my old supercharged MQ we mounted another J class multi-vee (serpentine style) pulley on the front, via a bolt on adapter. This could maybe an option, the plus being these belts have a higher HP rating.

That a bit more food for thought. -Andrew (narnturbogq)

[Dirty]

Yeah, this is on a GU with TD42T.

So there is the possibility of feeding in more power through a single belt than I originally thought. my 17HP mower is running a larger belt than the 13A class in the Patrol, but then if you do get in the position of belt slip the winch is working really hard. Also the ARB winch bar is only rated at 12,000lb and there are technicalities around modifying the chassis mounting of it.


The 10,000lb is also rated at 1,240psi, the larger versions (12,000lb & 15,000lb) are rated at 1,450psi. I want to up the flow to about 40l/m which should be a good compromised between winching speed and fuel economy when on the road.

Will be interested in how the large pump goes raptorthumper.

- David.

[narnturbogq]

For you to get 40l/m you will have to step up to a dedicated hydraulic gear pump and electric clutch. The pump that raptorthumper is going to use is about biggest powersteering pump available. I have spent countless hours researching this very problem on the net, and there aren't too many options
other than gear pumps.

The only other issue is that sort of flow and psi is starting to get up around the 25-30 HP mark to drive it, hens the electric clutch.

www.4x4winches.com is worth a look, with some useful info on some different types of setup from basic to full comp spec.

-Andrew

[PBBIZ2]

Looks good dave. I am installing the same winch from the same guy (Diecrest on ebay) at Harcourt VIC. I am waiting on some brackets to be laser cut to mount the high flow pump which is a Vickers Power Steering Pump VTM426075 series with electric clutch [19.6cc/rev, 7.5 GPM (28.38 LPM) @ 1500rpm biggest version]

This pump should do 5m/min at 1600 rpm engine speed or 7.5m/min @ 2400 rpm. I will post pics when completed.




Guys, I am a newby to this forum, so pls bear with any errors. I am awaiting delivery ex USA of 12000lb Milemarker Hydraulic winch. My GQ patrol is jammed with all sorts of stuff under the bonnet, so real estate to fit aux pumps is limited, but not impossibe.
Q1 Raptorthumper, where did you purchase the vickers unit and what was the cost pls?
Q2 Has anyone else found out the actual flowrate of the standard patrol PS pump - Nissan can't tell me, only pressure range of 1250-1330PSI?
Q3 Has anyone modified a standard nissan PS pump to increase the pressure to 1500PSI? Is it possibel and are there any problems with the steering box at the increased pressure?
Q4 has anyone else got this winch mounted in a GQ and running off the standard PS pump - whats the performance like - speed and pull? Ox de-rate the 12000Lb to 10500lb because of the factory PS pump specs.
Look forward to comments
Phil



_________________

[raptorthumper]

Pump came from a guy who purchased it from Palmarine in Sydney. Palmarine do custom steering systems for ships.


My personal preference would be a Muncie clutch pump from the USA. But it was going to cost a fair bit to ship here and the few different companies i spoke to didn't want to ship internationally. (What the hell is the big deal for them to ship over here. Heaps of companies won't ship over to AUS.? I dont get it.)

Anyway seing as you already bought a winch from the states just add a big Muncie clutch pump to the list.

Here is some info on clutch pumps that i posted over in the toyota section recently.

****************************************
I have been doing a bit of research and think i will just buy a complete off the shelf "Clutch Pump" as they are known in the states. These can be bought in big flow and power models and are relatively cheap considering powauto want $600 just for the electric clutch.

Muncie make a few models ranging from 3 - 11 GPM @ 1000 rpm and they can run up to 3500 - 4000 rpm max and come complete with the clutch unit.

The biggest Muncie unit can do over 125Litres/min












These can be bought from leetransport in the US for $435.00

http://leetransport.net/Parts/category.asp?cat=80" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

PDF Mucie Manual can be downloaded from here :

http://www.munciepower.com/clientupload ... P89-14.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

(and from here)
http://www.munciepower.com/clientupload ... P87-01.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.munciepower.com/clientupload ... P88-06.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

alternatively northerntool have these clutch pumps Manufactured by Forceamerica (i asked Northentool) for $469.00 in three models.

#1080
GPM @ RPM:______Litres/min @ RPM
4.6 @ 1200_______17.41 @ 1200
7.6 @ 2000_______28.77 @ 2000
11.4 @ 3000______43.15 @ 3000 rpm

or Bigger one
#1081
GPM @ RPM:_______Litres/min @ RPM
8.6 @ 1200________32.55 @ 1200
14.5 @ 2000_______54.89 @ 2000
21.6 @ 3000_______81.76 @ 3000

or Largest one

#1082
GPM @ RPM:_______Litres/min @ RPM
11.6 @ 1200________43.91 @ 1200
19.4 @ 2000_______73.43 @ 2000
29.1 @ 3000_______110.16 @ 3000



see link below

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... _200329774

And the two brochures from From Forceamerica can be downloaded here:

http://grantm.customer.netspace.net.au/SCP.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://grantm.customer.netspace.net.au/SCPP.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;














Or Below is a Vickers Power Steering Pump VTM426075 series available with electric clutch [7.5 GPM (28.38 LPM) @ 1500rpm biggest version]





__________________________________

[PBBIZ2]

Thanks for the info. I did find the other thread with the info on the toyota stuff after posting my questions.
I also tracked down the vickers pump and direct from the supplier , without reservoir or clutch, they want $1880 plus GST - forget it!
I will have a look at the clutch pumps you suggest and most likely buy the one that fits.
Size to some degree will be limited by space avail. I have the small 2.8L T/D engine and its laid out wastefully in the engine bay.
I think I will head for something around the 8gpm at say 1200rpm as I want a long term conservative result. I also only have a single A section belt at best to drive it, although note the high hp capability already stated on other threads.
Do you think this sounds reasonable?

[raptorthumper]

I think if you can source a muncie it's the best option, but another alternative is a Chinese copy of a vickers pump, if you are trying to save money. A company called superhydraulic make an exact copy of the Vickers VTM42 pump. Here is the data sheet.

Super Hydraulic
http://www.super-hyd.com/english/pdf/VTM42.pdf

or the Real vickers Data sheets downloadable from here:
http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/m2052s.pdf

http://hyspecs.dev.bka.co.nz/filedownlo ... ba1ee730ec

Or another (on Page 9 & 10) from here:
http://www.hofhydraulic.com/product/HOFcatalog%2002.pdf



I asked a quote on one and their reply is below.

Hi,Grant,

Thanks for mail. The price for it is USD114.00. The shipping cost for it is USD128.00


Regards
Dennis

======== 2009-01-19 12:04:00 您在来信中写道： ========

Hello Sales,

I would like a price on Vickers pump

1-Off VTM42607520BTRK

Will you ship to Melbourne Australia and cost of shipping.?

[narnturbogq]

Fellas, i have found another place in the states that sells clutch pumps, and they ship internationally according to what i can read on there. They have two pumps one does 12gpm@2000rpm and the other does 20gpm@2000rpm. They come in either double A class pulleys or 6Rib multivee serpentine, they come mounted on a bracket ready to go. I have seen 2 or 3 set up on the net running these pumps.

The web site is www.surpluscenter.com. I found this site on ebay so im pretty sure that there wouldn't be any problems with shipping to Aus.

Also remember the flow rating of the hydraulic motor on the winch when getting the pump, as any restriction in the system causes heat build up which can lead to damage to the hydraulic fluid, causing component damage. -Andrew

[raptorthumper]

Good find. That's another option.

Here is the direct link to their clutch pumps. Apparently they are Bosch Rexroth [New Rexroth gear pump. Model AZPN10036RXR12MA. Tapered shaft for use with electric clutch.]


http://www.surpluscenter.com./sort.asp? ... yword=HPCP

Data sheet for pumps can be downloaded here (page 45 to 67)

http://www.boschrexroth.com.au/country_ ... 06rev3.pdf

[gouldy]

What about a 12V electric power steering pump from a late model Barina or Astra?

[PBBIZ2]

NarnturboGQ and Raptorthumper,
thanks for the info. I am nearer to purchase of the pump, bearing in mind all the comments.
I have dimensional data on the Muncie and have gone for the PH7 as this is closest to nominal winch rating from MM at idle. Its rated at 5.4GPM@1000rpm, and my hand throttle max's out at 2200rpm, so perhaps 13GPM max flow. The MM comes with either of two valve blocks, one at 4GPM and the other 7GPM - I have to ensure I get the 7 as a minimum or system pressure will go thru the roof as will flow rate not increase but fluid temp will rise, and degrade the oil.

This installation is getting bigger by the minute. To get the drive in, I need to modify the existing crank pulley setup and add a 2A section belt pulley, remove the standard fan, make a spacer to push it forward 40mm toward the radiator, re-route the intercooler ducting to clear the clutch, trim the rear face off the fan cowl to cater for the increased projection of the 2A pulley, relocate an aux blower I had to cool my 200A alternator.

Andrew, you mentioned in a previous thread about a mod to your MQ crank pulley - how was this done - did you have someone weld a pulley extension on, or buy a 'kit' of some description? Luckily, my A/C pulley is a bolt on unit, being an option fitment when I bought the car, so I am thinking of unbolting it, and welding an addition 2A open centre pulley onto the front face, have it machined/true=d up and refitting - just a bit concerned about the overhanging load and addition crank bearing load as well - comments?

Also, do you see this system running as a closed loop? I will need to run a cooler and filter, but oil expansion when it gets hot has to go somewhere - comments? The power steering system as such with a vented cap overcomes this problem.

I am awaiting a cost comparison from Northern Tool on their 1080 pump, with a similiar spec to the PH7 from Muncie. I have cleared a spot to fit the unit, so, if either pump fits, itwill come down to weight and cost I guess, although cost at this stage is secondary.

I also notice the chinese copy power steering pump has dimensional data, so will have a look at that info also, but as a fallback only.

Finally, David, where did you purchase the filter and cooler from for circa $300? MM have a straight transmission cooler for circa $50, but it won't be suitable for a pressure system as it has hose barb fittings.

Thanks and look forward to comments
Phil

[narnturbogq]

Phil fitting the pulley the way you are talking about is probably the best option. My adapter was set up the same, only i had to get an aluminium adapter made because the harmonic balancer didnt have a flat face like yours. Can you get the pumps with a serpentine pulley? These have a higher hp rating and you could then use a springloaded belt tensioner, off a v6 commodore, that way you could take the belt of quickly/easily when not needed, reducing pressure on the crack bearing. This is the setup i am looking to upgrade to.

You wont be able to use a closedloop system, you will need a header tank to allow for expansion (my fluid level rises 40-50mm once hot). When making the tank you need to ensure that the return is always submerged as the return fluid dropping into the reservoir can cause a vortex effect (like in the bath) leading to the pump sucking air.

The higher flow MM valve blocks from memory are remote mounted from the winch, meaning that if you blow a hose (not that likely, but possible) there is no flow control and nothing stopping you from running backwards when on the winch. I would strongly recommend getting a counter balance/over centre valve (about $170) mounted on the winch motor. MM use a crude set up in the valve blocks to do this job, consisting of a nut shaped restricter with a small hole in it, that moves back and forth, but this causes a restriction in total flow. Doing away with this increases flow.

Another way of controling directional flow would be to use a lever type valve, the bonus being the pressure relief can be incorporated into the valve (saving on fittings and a valve block$$) and you could control winch speed as well. I was thinking of putting mine on the winch bar and using a push/pull cable (like the ones they use on B&M automatic shifters) and lever mounted in the cab, so that the winch can be controled from outside as well. -Andrew

[PBBIZ2]

Andrew,

thanks for the quick reply. I should be concentrating on my work, but this is more interesting!

The MM winch I have bought is the 70 series which takes the remote valve. I have just this morning asked for the higher capacity valve with the kit.

I am getting confused though with the two valves you mention. If I get the bigger remote located valve from MM, which as I understand has the plug for the hand controller, do I still need another hand control valve? Or, do I shoot MM a note, tell them to delete the 7gpm valve from supply, then purchase - what-? A counterbalance valve plus the 3 way dcv? This way the hand lever valve is used rather than a cable hand controller.
If there is a simple and direct way of hooking up this winch, I am all ears.

Thanks for confirming my thoughts regarding the closed/open system. Only issue I guess is designing a tank that doesn't leak out on steep hills and also doesn't stink out the vehicle - wife will moan, as they do! The comment about the oil return line is very relevent and appreciate the 'secret'.

My 97 Patrol was purchased new, and has only 100K on the clock. It is still pretty 'new' not battle hardened like some of the enthusiasts vehicles I have seen, so cutting holes thru floors etc is a bit of a challenge for me. If I go the path of the DCV on the bullbar, I can see the cable line up on the drum, which is important for the low mount config.

So, if I go the path of a single dcv on bullbar, do I still need the counterbalance valve, or is it recommended? If I have to reverse winch, will I get controlled decent or will the winch run away?

If you have a hyd sketch in mind or part numbers valves etc, pls forward - it all helps to get to the end quicker and with certainty. Thanks Phil

[chimpboy]

This great thread belongs in general tech, as it would benefit non-nissan owners too.

[narnturbogq]

The purpose of the counter balance is to lock the hydraulic motor in the event of a sudden lose of pressure ie: a blown hose, its mounted on the motor so that it is a closed circuit, no hoses in between.

You would use the hand control valve instead of the MM valve, this would ensure that you would have a valve that can flow the required gpm. You can get valves that flow 30gpm, for around $160 i think. How much was the MM valve worth?

Does the pump you are going to use have an inbuilt pressure relief valve? If not you will have to get one of these as well, im sure these can be mounted on hand DCV. It would probably be worth talking to a hydraulics place before you make any firm decisions.

Click here http://www.4x4winches.com/index.php?pag ... ystems.htm and then click on the diagrams and this will show you the general layout of components. Where the controls are is where the hand control valve would go.

When i set my winch up i did it with a 1 week time line, and i rushed it too much, i am trying to help everyone not make the same mistakes i did. My hydraulics guru tried to talk me into the hand DCV and i have regretted this ever since because it will cost me $450-500 to upgrade the hoses etc to suit a higher flow pump.

The good thing about the Runva winch is that it comes with hoses and rated valves to suit their rated flow, saving $$$. The only reason i didnt get one was that they werent 2 speed, but with a big hydraulic pump driving it, it probably wouldnt matter.(electric winches arent 2 speed and everyone manages). Incidently Runva does make a 2 speed hydraulic winch, but im not sure if they are available in Aus.

Good luck. -Andrew

[PBBIZ2]

Andrew,
appreciate the advice and will apply it for sure. There is nothing like information from a tried and tested source. Certainly being willing to pass on the 'information in the benefit of hindsight ' is a great thing for those just starting the project.
I will contact MM and see what I can find out. I am not in a stinking hurry to get this on board. The winch is yet to be despatched from USA. I am waiting for MM to confirm pricing. This situation may work in my favour as a couple of the pump suppliers will only ship local USA, so I can have them send the pump to MM and the lot can head down here in one box. Yep, shipping is going to an ugly cost, but thats the way it goes.

I will update the forum as things/wins/loses occur. I also will look into the use of the multi-rib belt and adjusted - it could save me space, though taking it off and on, well I think it will go on in the driveway before the trip and off when I get home - not pretty having to install in the mud or snow.

[narnturbogq]

Heres a link that also has some photos and specs that may help.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/sutra1540790.php

-Andrew

[narnturbogq]

I was thinking the same about the belt, but still having the electric clutch. The best thing about the commodore adjuster/ tensioner is only needs a spanner on the bolt head and pull the pulley out of the way, 2 sec max, no undoing bolts or turning threads, easy.

-Andrew

[raptorthumper]

I'm not sure about the Mile Marker, but the Runva has a brake built into the drum (just like most low mount electric winches). Dont bother with a counter balance if the MM has a brake as you can disconnect hydraulic lines and the winch should be braked.

EDIT**

Another option!. It's a Parker/Gresen CP-16 model clutch pump available from http://www.lifcohydraulics.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (or in Penrith NSW Aus http://www.sigrail.com/Mobile%20Hydraulics.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)

Data sheet downloadable here:
http://www.lifcohydraulics.com/catalog/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... 0-%20(CP16)%20-%20Clutch%20Pumps.pdf

[PBBIZ2]

Guys, good comments. Looks like the call to MM tomorrow will be a bit longer than I first thought!
If I find anything out of importance I will post a note
Phil

[PBBIZ2]

Guys,
spoke with Milemarker this morning at length about the Series 70 and 75 12000lb hydraulic winches.
The winch does not have an internal brake like the Runva. The winch is braked via the hydraulic valve configuration. Comment relating to burst hoses and winch run away were discussed. The 75 series winch has the valve block on top of the motor, direct coupled, so its virtually impossible for this to occur, saving the valve doesn't explode or be mechanically destroyed.
The 70 series uses a remote valve configuration. Burst hoses or mechanically damaged hoses are a very small risk, and it would have to a pretty serious rupture to impact on the winch. If it is a cut, its likely you will get some warning,ie leaking first. This risk can be overcome by installing the overcenter valve directly on the pump body, then hose out to a 3 position hand valve.
The MM 12000 winch motor is rated at 16GPM max flow, despite the factory having specs of 4.6gpm on the website.

The MM 12000winch is rated at 3000psi cont pressure, and there is allowance above this for pressure spike, value unknown or given, so 1500psi is on the performance specs. is very conservative. I asked about 2000psi as a nominal pressure, and no problem at all.

MM do not supply pumps with their winches, but have used the ZF74 range with good effect. They work with or have recommended pumps from AGR Steering and Northern Tool in USA. ZF 74 power steering pumps are 100% duty cycle rated at max flow and pressure. Being a pump with a small reservoir, I suspect the oil might heat up pretty quickly though and degrade quicker than normal, but a small price to pay perhaps.

I have requested dimensional info on the clutch pumps from Northern Tool, models 1081 and 1082. Still waiting for this to be faxed across.

I have mocked up a cardboard model of a clutch pump from Muncie PH7 last night, and it is going to be a very tight fit, so await the Northern Tool info to see if it will fit better. Now having the flow rate limits from MM, I might lean towards the PH9 as my max hand throttle speed is 2200rpm, and the PH9 delivers circa 17.4gpm @2000rpm.

I also am trying to get some dimensional info on the ZF 74 pump from Saginaw. Apparently the pump bodies are all the same, but the internals differ greatly. The guys at WinchesPlus in USA can configure a ZF74 for 5GPM at 1000rpm, pressure at least 1500psi, so this is a safe conservative approach, and one which I might have to default to in the first pass. It also overcomes the issues of remote reservoir which is required for the clutch pump config. I understand the Saginaw pumps are used on ford falsons a lot, so may just head down to a wrecker and either measure or buy one if they are cheap enough.

Regarding drive belt, the factory preference is a vee belt against a 6/8 rib flat belt. My personal preference is the Vee as there is a more readily, wider range avail, and this application is likely to be driven by installation of 'where the bits fit' then finding a belt that fits. I am still totally undecided at this stage.
Question - If I go the path of the clutch pump and it is mounted at top of motor height, as is required in my installation, can I have my reservoir lower than the pump? I assume it is possible if I have a check valve on the bottom of the inlet pipe to the pump, in the tank. Comments pls.

The last bit of info I was given relates to a small pump manufactured by a firm called ZULA or ZOOLA - have not found it yet. Also, a company who manufactures power steering pumps for nascars, high loads and pressure, and very small pumps is another option, possibly KRG - still looking into this also.

All good info, just need to get to the bottom of the options and configurations. Winch leaves USA on friday.
Phil

[Dirty]

I'm not sure about the Mile Marker, but the Runva has a brake built into the drum (just like most low mount electric winches). Dont bother with a counter balance if the MM has a brake as you can disconnect hydraulic lines and the winch should be braked.

Raptor,

I don't have an internal brake on my Runva winch. The clutch lever at the end of the drum is the only adjuster/lever.

The over-centre valve is the cartrage in the alloy block in the first pic, and can be just seen attached to the top of the winch motor in the last pic. This is only a single valve as a double is not required in this application and the local Hyd. shop was asking nearly $500 for one (the $165 from Diecrest is a bargain). A double over-centre valve was around $680 and these prices were way under retail.

The MM also run the Danfrost motors don't they? So the Dicrest valve block should fit on the 70 series.

- David.

[Dirty]

The last bit of info I was given relates to a small pump manufactured by a firm called ZULA or ZOOLA - have not found it yet. Also, a company who manufactures power steering pumps for nascars, high loads and pressure, and very small pumps is another option, possibly KRG - still looking into this also.

Phil,

I think it is KRC you are talking about? http://www.krcpower.com/

This has also been posted up in another thread which is locally available from Locktup 4x4

Rock Assult Pump (http://locktup4x4.com.au/product/057654 ... 654db.aspx)
- 1,600 psi of pressure at 4 gallons per minute

Another local option is Racer Import in Vic. http://www.racerimports.com.au/ who sell the Howe range of PS products within their steering section.

- David.

[raptorthumper]

David,

I have pulled my winch apart and can gaurantee it has a brake. (I wanted to see how well it was made.) It uses 3 brake pads and you cannot actuate it from a handle on the outside. It works automatically whenever the drum tries to drive backwards on the motor.

Grant.

rock assault pump pic-->