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WT transfer handbrake drum?
WT transfer handbrake drum?
Just wondering if its possible to use the drum handbrake off a NT transfer case on the back of a WT case? I keep destroying my rear brake shoes due to alot of mud driving and I thought this might be a good way to solve my lack of handbrake issue lol
Anyone does this before or have any other suggestions/solutions?
Anyone does this before or have any other suggestions/solutions?
Yes it is, you'll need a NT cable and 1/2 the rear driveshaft from a NT or a NT yoke to swap onto your driveshaft.
Bear in mind the transfer drums are not self adjusting, the also fill up with mud, and they tend to get smashed on rocks. The drum is OK but the backing plate gets mangled and this screws up the pad alignment.
Steve.
Bear in mind the transfer drums are not self adjusting, the also fill up with mud, and they tend to get smashed on rocks. The drum is OK but the backing plate gets mangled and this screws up the pad alignment.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
i dont know why u think u will need drive shaft?? i just redrill the drum mine..
although the cable dosnt quite fit from memory.....
although the cable dosnt quite fit from memory.....
[quote="jessie928"]
maybe you shoudl find something better to do other than diminishing your own view of your own idaquecies and inperfections by concerntrating on others ;)[/quote]
maybe you shoudl find something better to do other than diminishing your own view of your own idaquecies and inperfections by concerntrating on others ;)[/quote]
DL the drover manual from the www.suzukiinfo.com, should give u details in there.
the handbrake drum replaces the flange on the rear output. basically unbolt the rear output flange put drum backing plate section on and bolt it on and then place drum on and replace the nut on the spline.
then hook up cable etc
thanks
the handbrake drum replaces the flange on the rear output. basically unbolt the rear output flange put drum backing plate section on and bolt it on and then place drum on and replace the nut on the spline.
then hook up cable etc
thanks
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
I'm confused by the redrilled holes. NT drums use 8mm studs pressed into the drum. WT use 10mm nuts and bolts.ZUKPOWER wrote:thanks for the replies guys. would anyone happen to have a photo of the handbrake drum and how it connects to the transfer case? also johno_racing would you have a pic of the redrilled holes?
AFAIK, fitting a WT driveshaft to a NT drum would involve redrilling the pattern and pressing in 10mm studs, possibly scavenged from a vitara rear diff (the third member bolts in with 10mm studs) as an example.
Otherwise I can't figure out how you can get the bolts done up to hold the shaft on. surely you're not using 8mm studs in 10mm holes?
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Gwagen - u may be able to redrill 90deg offset to the NT bolts?
i have thought about doing to mine but will keep using the NT ones for now unlees there is more strength in the WT shafts?
edit: buy this one and suited for both
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Suzuki-Sierra-tr ... 240%3A1318
i have thought about doing to mine but will keep using the NT ones for now unlees there is more strength in the WT shafts?
edit: buy this one and suited for both
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Suzuki-Sierra-tr ... 240%3A1318
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
it can be a rock anchor, i am planning to add spacers under the case to lift it up a little to gain some clearance.
about 50mm below the case at a guess.
about 50mm below the case at a guess.
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
sure, but you've still got to press studs in. Nuts and bolts won't work.nicbeer wrote:Gwagen - u may be able to redrill 90deg offset to the NT bolts?
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
I'd be surprised. The car will drive side to side on the drum before it rips out. They're pretty strong. The backing plate is another matter, they get screwed up pretty quick.ZUKPOWER wrote:hmm...50mm sounds like i'll rip it out first trip. Maybe a little more thought is needed on this one. How wide is the hand brake drum? ie how far back will it push my tailshaft?
In any case, it's less than 50mm, it's about 35mm from memory, and assierra's benefit from raising the transfer case 35mm anyway (helps jackshaft angle) it's no big deal.
There is no effect on the length of the tailshaft. The WT output flange is long enough that it puts the mounting face in exactly the same place it's in with the drum installed in the NT.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Free Adnicbeer wrote:Gwagen - u may be able to redrill 90deg offset to the NT bolts?
i have thought about doing to mine but will keep using the NT ones for now unlees there is more strength in the WT shafts?
edit: buy this one and suited for both
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Suzuki-Sierra-tr ... 240%3A1318
I drilled the drum out undersize then tapped a thread in and bolted the bolts in from the inside with some loctite. The driveshaft flages are square and don't interfere with the unused studs, or with my Calmini shaft which has round flanges and is drill for both I used all 8 studs.
actualy if u look there is a small rib the head of the bolt will hit against and let u tigten them up..Gwagensteve wrote:sure, but you've still got to press studs in. Nuts and bolts won't work.nicbeer wrote:Gwagen - u may be able to redrill 90deg offset to the NT bolts?
Steve.
also a dolip of weld works quite well
[quote="jessie928"]
maybe you shoudl find something better to do other than diminishing your own view of your own idaquecies and inperfections by concerntrating on others ;)[/quote]
maybe you shoudl find something better to do other than diminishing your own view of your own idaquecies and inperfections by concerntrating on others ;)[/quote]
That's a nice solution.hyzook wrote:
I drilled the drum out undersize then tapped a thread in and bolted the bolts in from the inside with some loctite. The driveshaft flages are square and don't interfere with the unused studs, or with my Calmini shaft which has round flanges and is drill for both I used all 8 studs.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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