howdy after thrashing my little zook around for a while i wanna get it better
now my question is what is the easiest and cheapest way to get max flex out of the little fella i'm making some shackels this week for a little more height but i want flex
cheers damo
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getting max flex?
x2.. But make sure there soft!! Yeah it will involve moving/making new spring hanger mounts.. but in the long run it will definatly be worth it!! hehe, bit of warning, dont ask for any info on drop shackles though... most people on here hate themalien wrote:long, soft leaves running as flat as possible.....
heheheheF&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
Basically, do a search.
There's no such thing as "max flex-" It really comes down the following:
How much flex you need (this is normally less than you want)
How much money you want to spend
What sort of driving you do
Whether you are going to engineer it so it's legal.
How much work you can do yourself - you'll get into fabricating quickly and we're dealing with critical stuff here, not a bumper or some sliders.
Don't underestimate the cost. This stuff can't be done for free.
Have a search and work out what sort of car you want to drive.
Remember too that lots of cars that look cool flexed up on an obstacle are actually crap to drive, on and off road.
A low, stable, predictable car with moderate flex is far more capable than a flexy car that's loose, floppy and too tall
Just some thoughts.
Steve.
There's no such thing as "max flex-" It really comes down the following:
How much flex you need (this is normally less than you want)
How much money you want to spend
What sort of driving you do
Whether you are going to engineer it so it's legal.
How much work you can do yourself - you'll get into fabricating quickly and we're dealing with critical stuff here, not a bumper or some sliders.
Don't underestimate the cost. This stuff can't be done for free.
Have a search and work out what sort of car you want to drive.
Remember too that lots of cars that look cool flexed up on an obstacle are actually crap to drive, on and off road.
A low, stable, predictable car with moderate flex is far more capable than a flexy car that's loose, floppy and too tall
Just some thoughts.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
cheers for the replies fellas i only paid $200 for the beast so the cheaper the better
i know flex isn't everything it just where i go alot is through pine plantions where the big loggers dig dirty great big ruts in the winter and when you try to cross them the old wheel dosen't go that far so the bro has to hang off the back corners and rock like a mad man ha ha
cheers damo
i know flex isn't everything it just where i go alot is through pine plantions where the big loggers dig dirty great big ruts in the winter and when you try to cross them the old wheel dosen't go that far so the bro has to hang off the back corners and rock like a mad man ha ha
cheers damo
X2 when the surface is slick/rutted like most pine plantations I know, you need luggy tyres and lockers. Flex doesn't help.
Steve.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Sounds more like you need lockers more than lots of flex to me.easeupturbo wrote:cheers for the replies fellas i only paid $200 for the beast so the cheaper the better
i know flex isn't everything it just where i go alot is through pine plantions where the big loggers dig dirty great big ruts in the winter and when you try to cross them the old wheel dosen't go that far so the bro has to hang off the back corners and rock like a mad man ha ha
cheers damo
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
agreed with everyone else mate,a locker is your better option for the moment.my little zuk doesnt flex very well at all but is low,stable(ish 
) and with muddys and a rear locker it does go a very long way,pretty sure it will handle any forest track or rut and more.
Keep it simple and just keep having fun with it,you could spend a hole lot of money on suspension and still get stuck quite easy
) and with muddys and a rear locker it does go a very long way,pretty sure it will handle any forest track or rut and more.Keep it simple and just keep having fun with it,you could spend a hole lot of money on suspension and still get stuck quite easy
sierra truggy,37 sticky treps,propane,6.5s and disconnect,lux diffs with spools,16" fox shox,hydro steer.
if you want to go budget i recoment welding the rear diff lifting the shackles playing with your leaf packs (can be a long annoying job eg too soft too hard) but once you get them right they play a huge roll in flex and also triangulating your rear shocks gives them better travel so you wont be limited by your shocks so quickly also they are dead right about the tyers eaven if you have got wheels off the ground if you have good tyers and good traction eg locker or welded diffs the zuks are so light they will normaly crawl there way back onto all 4's
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