sierra gearbox problems,HELP PLEASE

[Turbo Tonka]

hi, i have not too long ago done a 1.6 conversion 2 my zuk,made the adapter ring up for the gearbox myself(possibly my problem).

Since the conversion it has been leaking oil out the slot at the bottom of the box,it had leaked before the conversion but never a problem, its definately gear oil so thinking its the front input seal and i have a bearing noise,which goes when i get on the clutch.it has had this noise before the conversion,but not as bad.Im pulling the box out tonight to do a new input seal and will replace the bearing....BUT today when i got back from a full days wheeling, i lost a bit of oil,150mL but when i drained it there are very fine shavings in there but everything sounds,feels like normal.Any ideas what could be wrong or if it is my adaptor plate that has caused this??thanks,matt

[PJ.zook]

If it is gear oil coming out then the front input seal is almost definately the cause. As for the bearing noise when you put youre foot on the clutch it would almost definately be the throwout bearing (which are bloody expensive).
How big are the shavings? If its like a powder on magnet than thats normal wear, if its anything more than powder like chunks, than thats something more serious and youre gearbox will most likely have to come apart to trace the cause before it kills everything else.

[11_evl]

sounds like since making your adaptor you have started having major problems, maybe the holes are off center and causing the input shaft to run off center

[Turbo Tonka]

P.J its stops the noise when im on the clutch,been told this is a diff bearing

11evl i am starting to think this myself and am worried about this.i have put another gearbox of a mates in there this arv,wil have it running by tomorow evening and i guess if it makes the same noise straight up like my other one did or leaks i will know this is probably the cause.

Seeing as tho i have drilled the box,and tapped etc does this mean i cannot run a benT ring cos his studs wont work or will i just have to make a ring and see if i can centralise things??i was in a rush last time,could of payd to wait

[mr green]

P.J its stops the noise when im on the clutch,been told this is a diff bearing

i suppose it might be a diff bearing if the noise goes away when your on the clutch pedal............ and the handbrake is on.

[Turbo Tonka]

sorry jase i meant different bearing,another example of incorrect speach and texting habits on here.my bad isnt it the thrust bearing if it gets noisy while your on the clutch?

[Turbo Tonka]

just sat my adaptor plate i made against a trace of benT's kit.the problem is there my bolt holes are rotating the box clockwise a little and pushing it to passenger side too.

my bad,will be getting one of benT kits to fix her up and get it driving

[mr green]

i'll make you one for a 6 pack

[Turbo Tonka]

ive got the plate and all ready to make a 2nd but im just lasy and over it,i just wanna get back up the forest in it again an no its right.Saw your lux mr green,not too bad at all once ur back from holidays wanna do a drive up the forest,down the back of the dam??

[danssurf82]

thrust/release bearing if stuffed will make noise and when u put your foot on the clutch the noise will go away...
doing my clutch tonight... thrust bearing noise and the clutch is not dis-engaging when i push the clutch-prob bent pressure plate or something
putting a exedy sports performance which comes with the thrust bearing cost $205.00 for vitara 94

[WRXZook]

thrust/release bearing if stuffed will make noise and when u put your foot on the clutch the noise will go away...
doing my clutch tonight... thrust bearing noise and the clutch is not dis-engaging when i push the clutch-prob bent pressure plate or something
putting a exedy sports performance which comes with the thrust bearing cost $205.00 for vitara 94

You have the first bit back to front.

[Turbo Tonka]

digging this up again as i replaced my home made ring with a proper benT adaptor kit,Got a new fully recoed gearbox with new seals,bearings etc thinking it could not go wrong with all this,all back together started it and same thing,noisy off the clutch quiet when clutch to floor.The old box was clearly visible that it chewed the front seal,oil everywhere and i dont want to run,drive it now and wreck another box.Starter motor etc also went straight in no probs.

Any one have any ideas on where i have gone wrong or what has gone wrong??all bolts and studs etc with the engine/box slide straight in not a single bit of fighting due to being out of line.Gearbox rubber mount is out a little but the rubber pulled to shape easily but as it was all allready tight at engine end the rubber mount is all that moved

any help would be great thankyou

[Turbo Tonka]

i made a rhs engine mount also when i did the conversion,could this be it??i have the new one ere now but dont see the need as the box mounts up to the engine so nicely

[dank]

Sounds to me like a stuffed clutch release/throwout bearing. Your gearbox could be fine but if you haven't changed the throwout bearing for a while it could be full of dirt/mud etc and on its way out. If everything else is new and sorted its almost certainly this part, as it only engages when the clutch is engaged with the flywheel.


This is a generic blow out diagram but gives you an idea of the part you need to look at.

Here's a description of how the throwout bearing works. Hope this helps.

"The "throw-out bearing" is the heart of clutch operation. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the throw-out bearing moves toward the flywheel, pushing in the pressure plate's release fingers and moving the pressure plate fingers or levers against pressure plate spring force. This action moves the pressure plate away from the clutch disc, thus interrupting power flow.

Mounted on an iron casting called a hub, the throw-out bearing slides on a hollow shaft at the front of the transmission housing. The clutch fork and connecting linkage convert the movement of the clutch pedal to the back and forth movement of the clutch throw-out bearing. To disengage the clutch, the release bearing is moved toward the flywheel by the clutch fork. As the bearing contacts the pressure plate's release fingers, it begins to rotate with the pressure plate assembly. The release bearing continues to move forward and pressure on the release levers or fingers causes the force of the pressure plate's spring to move away from the clutch disc.

To engage the clutch, the clutch pedal is released and the release bearing moves away from the pressure plate. This action allows the pressure plate's springs to force against the clutch disc, engaging the clutch to the flywheel. Once the clutch is fully engaged, the release bearing is normally stationary and does not rotate with the pressure plate."

pulled from : http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/techce ... ticle.html