4runner front diff

[tojo_runner]

I have a 1987 IFS 4runner. In relation to the short side of the diff (drivers side) the CV goes straight into the side of the diff. Now I can pick up the diff side of the CV and move it a good 10mm up and back down again in the diff housing. If I hold it up it will leak oil. Im trying to gather weather (a) a bearing in there has collapsed, (b) theres no bearing and the actual diff is stuffed, (c) either A or B as well as because it being flogged out so much its 'elongated' the hole that the CV goes into requiring a new diff housing or (d) none of the above and someone knows what IS going on in there.

Ive had one driveline specialist tell me that they cant tell me exactly what is wrong with it unless they pull it apart, in other words they have no idea. Another mechanic tell me that if it has that much slop it will have flogged out the housing and he would just go to the wreckers and get another housing and diff and put that in.

According to my gregories manual, the long side (passengers side) has a 'sealed bearing' in the end of the axle tube which would make sense, stop the axle flapping around, but because the short side goes straight into the side of the diff, and im by no means a mechanic I dont know what the story is. Also, the long side has a little play, but I think it is an acceptable amount.

If anyone knows whats causing the slop and can enlighten me it would be appreciated. The diff is a 4.55 ratio is that makes any difference

[Struth]

You need to pull the diff either way. There should not be that much movement.

It's pretty straight forward except for getting the CVs out in the first place, you have to drop the upper ball joints, disconnect the sway bar and the upper shock mounts to get the hub to move enough to allow the CV to come out.

Once the axles are out the problem will be easy to identify.

Cheers

[macca81]

You need to pull the diff either way. There should not be that much movement.

It's pretty straight forward except for getting the CVs out in the first place, you have to drop the upper ball joints, disconnect the sway bar and the upper shock mounts to get the hub to move enough to allow the CV to come out.

Once the axles are out the problem will be easy to identify.

Cheers

CVs are much easier to get out than that. follow this method and its a piece of cake
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/cvjoints.htm

[Struth]

You need to pull the diff either way. There should not be that much movement.

It's pretty straight forward except for getting the CVs out in the first place, you have to drop the upper ball joints, disconnect the sway bar and the upper shock mounts to get the hub to move enough to allow the CV to come out.

Once the axles are out the problem will be easy to identify.

Cheers

CVs are much easier to get out than that. follow this method and its a piece of cake
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/cvjoints.htm

Haven't tried that method yet, I do know that getting the inner CV flange seperated from the bolts in the axle flange and past the axle flange is a tricky prospect.

One of the better ideas is to knock the flange studs out of the axle flange and replace with suitable bolts, this means the bolts can be fully removed allowing for easy bush CV replacement.

Cheers

[macca81]

You need to pull the diff either way. There should not be that much movement.

It's pretty straight forward except for getting the CVs out in the first place, you have to drop the upper ball joints, disconnect the sway bar and the upper shock mounts to get the hub to move enough to allow the CV to come out.

Once the axles are out the problem will be easy to identify.

Cheers

CVs are much easier to get out than that. follow this method and its a piece of cake
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/cvjoints.htm

Haven't tried that method yet, I do know that getting the inner CV flange seperated from the bolts in the axle flange and past the axle flange is a tricky prospect.

One of the better ideas is to knock the flange studs out of the axle flange and replace with suitable bolts, this means the bolts can be fully removed allowing for easy bush CV replacement.

Cheers

agreed, it is a bit of stuffing about getting it past the studs, but a bit of brute force does the job. replace with high tensile bolts if ya get the chance, i woulda if i wasnt in a hurry

[Struth]

You need to pull the diff either way. There should not be that much movement.

It's pretty straight forward except for getting the CVs out in the first place, you have to drop the upper ball joints, disconnect the sway bar and the upper shock mounts to get the hub to move enough to allow the CV to come out.

Once the axles are out the problem will be easy to identify.

Cheers

CVs are much easier to get out than that. follow this method and its a piece of cake
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/cvjoints.htm

Haven't tried that method yet, I do know that getting the inner CV flange seperated from the bolts in the axle flange and past the axle flange is a tricky prospect.

One of the better ideas is to knock the flange studs out of the axle flange and replace with suitable bolts, this means the bolts can be fully removed allowing for easy bush CV replacement.

Cheers

agreed, it is a bit of stuffing about getting it past the studs, but a bit of brute force does the job. replace with high tensile bolts if ya get the chance, i woulda if i wasnt in a hurry

Same, every time I am pulling a CV out I have other more pressing things on my mind rather than taking the time to replace the studs

[904Runa]

You need to pull the diff either way. There should not be that much movement.

It's pretty straight forward except for getting the CVs out in the first place, you have to drop the upper ball joints, disconnect the sway bar and the upper shock mounts to get the hub to move enough to allow the CV to come out.

Once the axles are out the problem will be easy to identify.

Cheers

CVs are much easier to get out than that. follow this method and its a piece of cake
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/cvjoints.htm

Tried this method but it didn't work. Seems to only work if your torsion bars are very loose. When I took my diff out I ended up having to split the top ball joints as the lower suspension arm would only jack to a certain point and then whole car would start to lift up.

[leehamescort]

If it has fixed hubs (ADD front end) then there is a needle roller bearing that has probably flogged out and can be replaced with the diff still in the car (just be carefull nothing ends up in the diff)

If its an early one with the free wheeling hubs then the axle runs on a brass bush which may have flogged out but unless its done a huge amount of offroading or driving with the hubs locked this is unlikely.

The short side axle even with a new bush/bearing has a fair amount of play and its normal. I would pull the CV, pry out the seal, if it has a bearing then make sure its ok then just put in a new seal. If it decides to leak again in 3 months time then I'd pull the diff and fix things properly, if that bearing/bush has gone then the diff has done a lot of work and the ones inside the diff probably arnt that far behind it in giving up the ghost.

hope this helps.

catcha
Leeham