So it is under its own weight and nearly rolling
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Project Chop!
Moderator: -Scott-
Put both axles under tonight. Just need to mount the rear of the radius arms. I may need to alter the panhard as it is binding already.
So it is under its own weight and nearly rolling
So it is under its own weight and nearly rolling
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Got me some tah's.
35 inch Simex Centipedes which are about 1/4 worn so not a bad score.
Pulled motor out again
Got some radius arm mounts bent up and tacked on
Body swap was done by 4 of us and an engine hoist and moved it sideways off one and onto the other. Couldn't help myself to throw a 37 on it.
Either chassis mounts are different or I botched up the cutting - as the front wheels were too far forward, but it is sitting better now. Needed to come forward with the body to clear the steering box which I had failed to check as it was right on the front body mount. Will need to make new cab mount as shown here.
Steering box clearance after cab adjustment
And some inner guard relief.
Checking scrub radius with the 37. Should be ok, with the radius arm design it will pull forward a bit as the wheel lifts.
Certifier is coming on Monday (ish)
35 inch Simex Centipedes which are about 1/4 worn so not a bad score.
Pulled motor out again
Got some radius arm mounts bent up and tacked on
Body swap was done by 4 of us and an engine hoist and moved it sideways off one and onto the other. Couldn't help myself to throw a 37 on it.
Either chassis mounts are different or I botched up the cutting - as the front wheels were too far forward, but it is sitting better now. Needed to come forward with the body to clear the steering box which I had failed to check as it was right on the front body mount. Will need to make new cab mount as shown here.
Steering box clearance after cab adjustment
And some inner guard relief.
Checking scrub radius with the 37. Should be ok, with the radius arm design it will pull forward a bit as the wheel lifts.
Certifier is coming on Monday (ish)
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Yes your right - that would be good but, and its a big but. The car, both the dignity and the proudia were a flop compared to the Lexus and Infinity flagship cars so there was very few made. Have a look at production data for them. They also run the GDi system which anyone will admit, is a less than reliable setup, particually in its eary stages.GREGGO wrote:Put in an 8A80 from the Dignity. Greggo
I have looked into this before and with the first reason, the cost is astronomical and the 2nd just sealed the deal (or no deal).
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
I got a Rover (2 motors actually!) at a price I couldn't refuse especially when it was already mated to a Toyota Gearbox and the transfer case I was after.
It uses the nice heavy RR flywheel and clutch.
The body is on with new body mounts and no body lift.
Dropped the motor in but boy are they a big motor compared to the V6. A Paj engine bay is tiny and to keep the radiator support the radiator is going to have to go on the deck.
Just putting thrust bearing in and putting gearbox together to tack up some plates to mount the motor. With the sheer size of the V8 and the large clutch and bellhousing the V8 runs I may need to do a body lift..
And that'll make it even higher.... 
Will try and get some pic's.
It uses the nice heavy RR flywheel and clutch.
The body is on with new body mounts and no body lift.
Dropped the motor in but boy are they a big motor compared to the V6. A Paj engine bay is tiny and to keep the radiator support the radiator is going to have to go on the deck.
Just putting thrust bearing in and putting gearbox together to tack up some plates to mount the motor. With the sheer size of the V8 and the large clutch and bellhousing the V8 runs I may need to do a body lift..
And that'll make it even higher.... Will try and get some pic's.
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Yea mate, the motor is a bit oily! I have no idea where it is leaking from but probably around the heads, frost plugs, rocker covers etc etc! O well...
And the transfer case doesn't leek because its a Toyota. Just spilt!
And the transfer case doesn't leek because its a Toyota. Just spilt!
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Fido oil leaks are: Tappet covers, front and rear valley seals, rear main seal. Make sure you renew the flame traps on the hoses from the tappet covers to the inlet manifold, I have washed these out and they still pressurized the crankcase. Crankcase pressure is the 2nd cause of oil leaks after loose tappet covers on rovers. Fit the factory lock tabs to the exh manifold bolts as they work loose all the time. Fit an GM HEI dizzy and you will lose all the poor running caused by the dwell variations with shaft/housing wear and cam lobe wear
orsum build, love to see the finished product, u just dont see these been modified here in nz, seen 3 or 4 safari's cut down but no mitsi's, they are quite cheap to get hold of here becaus the market was flooded with them a few years back, be orsum to build one! will follow rest of your project for sure!
Another installment!
Got the motor mounted last night, used Rover SD1 engine mounts which made mounting them pretty straight forward. Pulled all the dash out again for a bit of de loom. All the ECU stuff is gone, I haven't been game enough to cut any more wires yet until the vehicle is running.
Thanks for your comments J Top, I did put the lock tabs back on the exhausts, I do have a HEI dizzy but it has been sitting outside for a while so posible is scrap now. I found a helpful chap here in NZ who has suggested a Range Rover water pump as they flow more and given I am mounting the radiator on the rear - it'll probably need all the help it can get.
Photo's to come tonight hopfully and try to mount the gearbox. The gear lever hole in the paj body will need to be relieved to fit a lever and I amy also need a body lift to clear the steering shaft and bell housing as the RR one is much bigger than little Jap stuff.
Got the motor mounted last night, used Rover SD1 engine mounts which made mounting them pretty straight forward. Pulled all the dash out again for a bit of de loom. All the ECU stuff is gone, I haven't been game enough to cut any more wires yet until the vehicle is running.
Thanks for your comments J Top, I did put the lock tabs back on the exhausts, I do have a HEI dizzy but it has been sitting outside for a while so posible is scrap now. I found a helpful chap here in NZ who has suggested a Range Rover water pump as they flow more and given I am mounting the radiator on the rear - it'll probably need all the help it can get.
Photo's to come tonight hopfully and try to mount the gearbox. The gear lever hole in the paj body will need to be relieved to fit a lever and I amy also need a body lift to clear the steering shaft and bell housing as the RR one is much bigger than little Jap stuff.
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Ok, I have done a body lift against what I wanted to do but....
The steering shaft from the body to the Prado box would not clear the engine mounts without it.
The steering shaft has been completed and is the Prado end knuckle mated to the Pajero shaft - just bored out the UJ on the toyo end and then put a new joint it - so simple.
The High pinion diff hits the sunp of the V8 at full compression, and the motor is as high as I can get it with the engine mounts in place.
To combat this I will just pack the bump stops for now. The Prado's diff is more centered than a Hilux one which would be fine, as would a low pinion one but then all the steering would need changed.
The other option would have been to make completely new engine mounts for the chassis and engine to lift the motor and avoid the steering shaft issues by a different mount on the chassis. As it is the motor sits very low which is good.
The gearbox crossmember is made and in place, it is flat and is 10mm plate.
Glen
The steering shaft from the body to the Prado box would not clear the engine mounts without it.
The steering shaft has been completed and is the Prado end knuckle mated to the Pajero shaft - just bored out the UJ on the toyo end and then put a new joint it - so simple.
The High pinion diff hits the sunp of the V8 at full compression, and the motor is as high as I can get it with the engine mounts in place.
To combat this I will just pack the bump stops for now. The Prado's diff is more centered than a Hilux one which would be fine, as would a low pinion one but then all the steering would need changed.
The other option would have been to make completely new engine mounts for the chassis and engine to lift the motor and avoid the steering shaft issues by a different mount on the chassis. As it is the motor sits very low which is good.
The gearbox crossmember is made and in place, it is flat and is 10mm plate.
Glen
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Finally got body mounted properly with new mounts. Just need a bit of a tidy up some of the corners but it is good to have the body properly mounted finally. It is pretty square but is dam hard to be perfect with cut chassis being welded and new radius arm mounts and then new body mounts. So I'm happy with 5mm sqew.
Rear
Cut a hole in the floor for the gear levers.
As it sits currently... looking a bit sad.
Rear
Cut a hole in the floor for the gear levers.
As it sits currently... looking a bit sad.
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Well I got my new motor even though the old motor never got fired up....
And got the chassis rails started.
Petrol tank mounted
Gussets done like this
Finished with the tops and bottoms filled in as well.
Completed, just need to add some more instantaBling.
Only to discover when I went to swap exhaust manifolds over on the V8's (from disco to SD1) that the plugs were loose so I investigated further, and water came out then holes, only to inestigate further that the motor was locked solid! So I went home in a huff and today hunted down a replacement.
And got the chassis rails started.
Petrol tank mounted
Gussets done like this
Finished with the tops and bottoms filled in as well.
Completed, just need to add some more instantaBling.
Only to discover when I went to swap exhaust manifolds over on the V8's (from disco to SD1) that the plugs were loose so I investigated further, and water came out then holes, only to inestigate further that the motor was locked solid! So I went home in a huff and today hunted down a replacement.
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
ahh bugger. i hope you got the motors for free.
this is a top build very original and will turn heads when its done.
this is a top build very original and will turn heads when its done.
kaylee 2004 hdj78 RV. 33 mickey atz's, winchbar, 3i lift, 3i exhoust, spoties, roofracks and ufh. pimped interior .
86 lwb zook wt soa, 33's, locked, bard up, prety lights. monster tacho:/
86 lwb zook wt soa, 33's, locked, bard up, prety lights. monster tacho:/
I bought the 1st one, (the good SD1 carby 3.5) and it came with another one that still ran ok but was low on oil pressure and ran a bit hot.
I then bought the 3.9 but had not even paid for it before i realised it was a dud yesterday so I won't be paying for it.
It is a blessing in disguise however as it was missing a few bits, (PS pump, alternator, Airflow meter, water lines, Starter) which all add up when trying to buy.
I have sourced another one which is truely complete with low KM, it does have a cut loom, but both halves are there and I can splice them together. It had to be cut to get out of the rolled vehicle. And this new one, i paid less than what it would cost to get all the bits + original price for the dud 3.9. Phew!
Thanks Known2, I know it is original and that is part of the reason for doing it - yes there are people who tell me here and there that I should have just bought a Nissan or an 80 series and driven it, but thats not what this is about. Built, not bought.
I then bought the 3.9 but had not even paid for it before i realised it was a dud yesterday so I won't be paying for it.
It is a blessing in disguise however as it was missing a few bits, (PS pump, alternator, Airflow meter, water lines, Starter) which all add up when trying to buy.
I have sourced another one which is truely complete with low KM, it does have a cut loom, but both halves are there and I can splice them together. It had to be cut to get out of the rolled vehicle. And this new one, i paid less than what it would cost to get all the bits + original price for the dud 3.9. Phew!
Thanks Known2, I know it is original and that is part of the reason for doing it - yes there are people who tell me here and there that I should have just bought a Nissan or an 80 series and driven it, but thats not what this is about. Built, not bought.
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Na, got a bit miffed when my new motor was siezed solid so haven't done anything for a while.
My other one needed a few things done to it which I have mostly done, and refinancing & paying a lump sum on the house means projects are on the backburner.
My other one needed a few things done to it which I have mostly done, and refinancing & paying a lump sum on the house means projects are on the backburner.
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Right o, a few pic's.
Engine Bay painted.
Painted this colour to make it lighter under the bonnet and easier to see things. It won't be the colour of the vehicle.
Still haven't decided on final car colour.
Had to make a plate to fill the hole at the bottom of the bellhousing
Ignore the paint runs!!! I can fabricate better than paint!!
New transfer case mount
Engine mounts to go onto motor.
Rover car manifolds which are a more suitable angle. And the wiring I am faced with. Heavy flywheel on - motor was an auto.
Had to fix a few oil leaks.... sump never had a gasket on it from new! Just a very limitied amount of gasket poo to slow the oil flow!
Waiting on a spigot bush for clutch to be made then motor can go in for the final time
Engine Bay painted.
Painted this colour to make it lighter under the bonnet and easier to see things. It won't be the colour of the vehicle.
Still haven't decided on final car colour.
Had to make a plate to fill the hole at the bottom of the bellhousing
Ignore the paint runs!!! I can fabricate better than paint!!
New transfer case mount
Engine mounts to go onto motor.
Rover car manifolds which are a more suitable angle. And the wiring I am faced with. Heavy flywheel on - motor was an auto.
Had to fix a few oil leaks.... sump never had a gasket on it from new!
Just a very limitied amount of gasket poo to slow the oil flow! Waiting on a spigot bush for clutch to be made then motor can go in for the final time
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 38 guests