NOTE:
IF ANY OF THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION IS WRONG, PLEASE PM ME SO I CAN CORRECT IT.
I HAVE NOT DONE THIS CONVERSION BUT LOOKING TO DO IT IN THE FUTURE.
All that is written below is cut and pasted from various forums.
I know that many of the guys who have done this conversion get sick of answer the same questions over and over again so this is try and give them a rest from the tards the can't be bothered to search.
The content is only the opinions of the person who wrote it and are not accountable for it.
For anyone that has any relevent information to add to this thread please do so.
Wiring a Crown Engine
The wiring diagrams for the Crown UZS131 Roayal Saloon can be found here. There are pinout diagrams and the schematic diagrams for the engine ECU and the transmission ECT. I cannot gaurantee they are 100% correct.
ECU wiring schematic PDF
ECU pinout PDF
ECT wiring schematic PDF
ECT pinout PDF
Hope this helps with your conversions.
I had a look over them and they make things look (almost) easy.
From what I can see there are only 9 wires external to the engine loom/ fuse box that need to go somewhere/do something.
It looks like:
2 from switched power (the ignition)
1 fused power from the Battery
3 earths
1 to the fuel pump
1 each for exhaust temp & engine check light.
The rest of the wires exiting the looms can be insulated and terminated.
This looks too easy, tell me I've missed something.
What do they do about oil pressure warning/temp warnings. I haven't found any feed for it or is it part of the the "engine check light"? If so I will need to pickup these feeds for the current instrumentation.
Ohh yeah, I forgot to mention a few things.
1. Some of the wires on the ECT actually go to speed sensors on the gearbox. Mine were cut and I haven't had a chance to look at a full halfcut to correct the diagrams. The SS1, SS2, SSC, SP and SP1 wires all go to speed sensors (AFAIK) but i'm not sure which wire is which for the sensors. SO if these wires are attached don't cut them.
If anyone knows what they are for sure then please let me know so I can update the wiring diagrams
The oil wires come from the oil pressure switch near the oil filter. If you want you can put a oil pressure guage switch there too. Other 1uzfe's have a different configuration for oil. The SC400 only has an oil low level sensor in the oil sump. I think the ls400 has this as well.
Make sure all the connections to all the sensors are there. Most looms have some damage of one kind or another, or sensors removed altogether. Also make sure all the wires between the two ECUs are there.
I should have looked here before asking you the questions in the other topic about the SS1 and SS2 wires.
I can help with the SSC wire. I traced this to a speed sensor?? at the top of the steering column. It seems to give either a wheel position or a signal that the steering wheel is being turned. It has a notched wheel that spins with the steering shaft and the pick-up is in the body of the unit mounted to the combination switch. It assumed that it was for the variable power steering.
I have just noticed that this unit also has an orange wire as well. Could this be related the th orange wire at SS1??
Part number is 84317-30050
May well be. Depends on the type of sensor. I assume it is a hall effect sensor and outputs square wave signal. If this is the case it will have three wires, power, signal output and ground. The SS1 wire might be the power.
If you have a multimeter then you could do a continuity check to see if its the same wire.
On the ECU pinout drawing, the 22 pin plug on mine is opposite to the drawing e.g. Pin # 1 is Blk/White, pin 22 is Blk/Red, Pin 11 is White/red and pin 12 is Blk/Blue this is coming off a plug with about 100mm worth of wires coming out of it. Am I right to think this will go to the ECT if I ever find one. can you also please check classified section to help with matching ect from hztunna
I too have traced the SS1 and SS2 wires.
The orange wire as it comes out of the ECT divides into 2 orange wires - one with a single pink band and the other has two pink bands. Single banded orange wire goes to the steering column and terminates in a 6 pin blue plug. The double banded orange wire heads out to the back of the car (obviously untraceable as it has been cut off at the half cut level).
The black wire divides into two black wires - one with a single pink band and the other has two pink bands. Single banded black wire goes to the steering column and terminates in the same 6 pin blue plug. The double banded black wire heads out to the back of the car also.
Unfortunately I dismantled my front cut to such an extent that I have no idea what the blue plug actually plugs into but I presumed it was either some steering related thing or possibly an in-dash speed sensor.
The blue 6pin plug belongs to a steering shaft speed sensor. (See earlier post this section) If you look on the rear of your indicator/wiper control switch assembly you will find this sensor, it just looks like a black disc screwed to the rear of the assembly. The SSC wire also goes to this sensor. (Maybe you can trace this wire too) Mine has a 6pin plug, but only 5 wires. I need to connect my engine harness back up to see if the black and orange wires are a powered or receive a signal from the vehicle speed sensor.
It may send a signal to the power steering control unit which is located under the dash.
I think I have worked out the speed sensor problems with my conversion. Look on Classicrown in the electrical section for the post by Kuchie. I have found a speedo with a speed sensor built-in and found some more diagrams and I think this system should work.
I have a question on the speed-sensors on my tranny. On the tailshaft (90' Crown) I have a 3wire hall-effect sensor bolted on, and also a traditional speedo-cable type output with another 3 wire sensor screwed on it..... why the 2 vehicle speed sensors? I would like to be able to use the cable output to run my speedo directly....
I could always use a pass-through type of sensor on the cable output, but if it is not needed, I will just ditch it.
The 3 wire hall effect one you mentioned is the ABS speed sensor. The other is for the speedo and computer speed sensing. A cable speedo can be used with a pass-through type speed sensor. The computer is looking for 4 pulses per cable revolution
Crown,
Thanks for the info, that is exactly what I needed.... not what I wanted to hear, but....
I think I can use the pass-through sensor from a MKII MR2. Does anyone know the Toyota part number for a screw-in 90 degree adaptor?
Depends which 1uz youre using. Crown and soarer/lexus wiring looms use different colours apparently.
If you do a search on www.lextreme.com for "wiring diagram crown" or something along those lines you should find what you are after.
ECU wiring schematic PDF
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~russell ... CUwire.pdf
ECU pinout PDF
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~russell ... ECUpin.pdf
SIDESHOW said: i can get those pass thru electronic speedo sensors
they bolt onto original spedo drive gear on gbox
then the speedo cable bolts to them
they have 4 pulses every revolution
they are 150 plus gst plus freight if anyone wants them
Crown Royal Saloon = UZS131
its the code for them.
so if you have a motor from a Crown Royal Saloon...then they are the diagrams for you
The diagrams are accurate.
I did my conversion and used KDogs pinout diagrams and the car started first go.
I also obtained diagrams from a few other sources and they re-inforced what KDog had provided.
The thing KDogs diagram don't get into too deeply is the speed control for the fuel pump.
They are on the diagram but for more indepth information look in the tech section of this Site. The Soarer layout is basically the same and you can see the interrelationship of the closing circuit, speed control and master relay easier.
There are a couple of items on KDogs diagrams you probably won't have in your vehicle (exhaust flap for one) but don't worry just don't connnect anything to it. Basically you have around 12 wires to connect to get the car to run. From memory 4 earths, 3 lots of power, starter solenoid and some fuel wiring.
With the ECT and ECU. Cut all wires running between the two and discard the ECT and it's loom. Insulate all wires out of the ECU you cut (those between the ECT and ECU) and your home safe.
Give it a go it isn't as hard as it sounds. KDog and co have done all the hard work for us
The ECT isn't needed if you aren't using the auto.
If you are using an aftermarket ECU to control the engine you can't use the ECT to control the gearbox. The ECT gets the signals it needs from the ECU not directly from the sensors so it isn't possible to use it. If you still wanted full automatic function then yout could use an ECT from an older car such as a cressida which has an ECT which will take signals directly from the sensors.
The speed signals for the ECT (SP, SP1, SS1, SS2 and SSC) aren't accurate in my diagrams. I will update them when I get a chance. The best way to wire these up to is to replace the speed sensor (20pulses/revolution) with the type that puts out 4 pulses/revolution and wire it to the SP1 input on my diagrams. Please correct me if I am wrong someone as I am going from the top of my head.
Thats what I thought KDog
Are the fuel pump relays part of the main loom from the dash or are they mounted in the boot near the fuel pump?
Also, SORRY GUYS, but with the ignition side of things it looks like there are 5 wires needed for ignition.
1 from the exhaust temp/check engine lamp switch
1 black/red one from ECT26pin (presuming this is main ignition wire)
1 from econ/power switch which interconnects to blck/red wire .
1 from ignitors
And 1 from the fuel injectors.
Are all these wires needed?
Depends what your engine came out of.
If you have a Crown the relays are in the fuse box in passenger side rear of engine bay (in Australia or NZ) and a Soarer SC400 the control is from the ECU to a control unit in the passengers rear quater panel. If you have a Crown you need the resistor mounted on the wheel arch in front of the fuse box.
We need to know what you have to give any real advice
a Crown, so i wont need to add any relays to wire up the fuel pump
How much of the stock 4Runner's wiring is used?
Not much....I kept the bits under the dash that goes to the guages, then the wiring down to the gearbox/xfer case. the rest was scrapped. It's a mission of a job to strip these wires out of the V6 loom too, so have fun!
Top of pic is the V6 loom/ecu....bottom of pic is the big i needed out of it.
What's needed
As some of you would know I have been on a never ending quest for performance for most of this year, with my truck only spending about 3 months on the road all year.
Originally I spent quite a bit of money to get ready to turbo my standard V6, but after installing engine management and getting a dodgy tune my V6 has died. So I've just about sold most of the turbo stuff off as the plan has now changed to dropping in a Lexus 4.0l V8 (1UZ-FE).
The stats on these motors are amazing, they put most V8's to shame with how strong they are. Here is a bit of a history write up about the 1UZ.
http://www.itplanet.net.au/Cressida/1UZ_history.htm
I have decieded to scrap the WOLF engine management and run the 1UZ on the std. ECU. The main reason for this is you get a motor that runs like factory as soon as you hook everything up. With engine management it's a long and expensive process to get a it running like a factory running engine.
The main problem with running a Std. ECU is with the vehickles that the 1UZ's come out of the whole cars wiring system is built into the engine loom. Which can be a real pain to try and sort out what's what. But a company in Brisbane called Venom will modify the loom so all you have to do is supply power, and hook up some fuel pump wires etc... then turn the key. It's cost $700 for venom to do this, but it is deffinetly money well spent, and will look a lot neater in the end.
So heres the costs so far.
$1200 Front Sump 1UZ-FE V8 from Venom
(includes AC Comp, Starter, Alt etc....)
(Hopefully the front sump will fit with no sump modifcations, the 2" bodylift will also help this)
$1000 Crown ECU and Modified Loom from Venom
$350 for Air Flow Meter and Igniters.
$330 flywheel from Venom (my std. V6 Daikin Safari Clutch will bolt to this)
$550 Bellhousing, Pilot Bearing & Pivot Ball from Dellows Automotive (to mate to my std. 5speed manual)
$85 Clutch Fork & Clip from Dellows
$25 Push Rod (adjustable) from Dellows
$85 Thrust Race and Carrier from Dellows
Which totals $3295 for a running motor bolted up to my std. gearbox
I should have all the stuff from Dellows next week some time, and I'll pick up the motor, loom etc.. in about 2 weeks (waiting for some funds). But venom is currently setting the loom up and is going to test run my engine to make sure it's all ok.
The Upcoming Costs
$100approx. to get my clutch pressure tested and maybe modified for more pressure by Direct Clutches
$500 for Widowmaker Race Egines, to install the V8 and Gearbox and make custom engine mounts and modify the gearbox crossmember.
$200 Exhuast Modiciations - I already have a 3" mandrel exhaust with a 3" Cat, but I will need to get it modified to suit the V8.
$??? A thermo fan that will fit as there isn't much room.
$70 Modification Plate
Carton of XXXX for my mate to modify my Radiator
$??? powersteering and aircon hookup.
I'm hoping to have it finished for under $5000. I attach pics and do more writeups as it comes along.
So the plans for this weekend are to install my new Ball joint lift which will increase the suspension lift on the 4Runner to 3". Drop my 3" bodylift back to 2" (legal reasons, bugger). Then start to remove my motor, gearbox etc.. and clean up the engine bay.
I got the front sump since Scott at Venom Fabrications new it would fit with no modifications. By looking at mine I would say the rear sump would fit too, but you may need to lower the diff a little. I have lowered mine with some spacers to reduce the CV Angles after installing a ball joint lift.
Mid sumps will not fit without modifications.
How much is the half cut costing you? and what car is it from?
The engine mounts aren't a drama for any metal fabrication type person. On mine the std. v6 engine mounts are used and just new brackets made from the block to the existing mounts out of thick alloy plate.
The airbox is actually a VN commodore one, the 1UZ one was too big.....
I might bring that stuff to this page in a some new posts....
It went good yeah, I was pretty happy. It held 4th gear on all the big hills ok (the tyres make 5th too tall.) Fuel economy was pretty good for what it is, it sat around 13L/100 i think, which is as good if not better than the V6 was.
The only problem was that I haven't sorted around the centre console yet. The gearbox cam back a bit, so the console won't screw down, and the rubber boots are the same. The problem being alot of heat coming through. I'll hopefully have that sorted this week though....
It will fit a solid front easily yes, you just need a rear sump version of the 1UZ. IFS trucks use a front sump version.
Oh yeah, and the cooling is finally nailed thanks to the shoehorn of a FZJ75 cruiser radiator. The core is the same height and width from front on, but the massive thickness and header tanks would have nearly doubled capacity. Thanks to the guys at HiTech4x4 for fixing me up with it for a good price (and lending me their workshop all the time.)
Finally some action on the Western Front......
I went there today and the guys have finally finished the current jobs and have hooked into my truck. I'm so glad i stuck with them, the work is excellent and their ideas even better.
Turns out they've used the original 1UZ engine mounts. Which join to the original V6 engine mounts. And are fabricating a simple, yet super strong bracket with 8mm plate off the chassis. It's going to be so simple, so strong, and so basic if the time comes i need to replace a mount.
I only had a camera phone on hand, but here's a few pics of the work today. He thinks the motor will be bolted in by tonight, then he just has to do the gearbox end....
Here's the original Lexus mount still in place. Bolted to that is the top half of the V6 mount. The plate under that is off the chassis mount. This section will be re-welded in the right position. Talk about factory looking.
This will help you out on all the motor info.
Parts needed for the 1UZ
All prices are approx as they vary
You will need an engine ($1000) Loom ($900ish from Venom) or Half cut ($2200) I think if I was to do it again I would probably go the half cust as you can get other little bits and pieces of it. Either a CRS or Dellows Bellhousing Kits which include Bellhousing clutch flywheel and a few other little bits ($1500) exhaust ($800 for mild steel or $1200 stainless) Fuel pump intank-need a high flow for the efi and hoses to suit ($200) Mounting the engine with custom mounts ($1200) and a few other bits and pieces but in total if you can do a bit of work yourself and dont mind getting your hands dirty you can probably get away with it for around $6kish
Last time i rebuilt my diesel it was around $4500 so for an extra $1500 its worth it in my mind as the seals in your fuel pump generally cost around $900-$1000 to get fixed and seem to go every 3-4 years as they change the diesel. Also if anything goes wrong with the motor you just get another for $900 and throw it in. And just a final thing you go from about 20ishkW if your lucky to around 130kW at the wheels so just a little improvement.
Gearboxes
Called dellow's and they told me that the bellhousing of the 1UZFE will bolt to the 4 runner auto
auto 1uz bellhousing will bolt to the V6 runner auto
auto with a crown bellhousing and torque converter
Bundy Monkey- I have just done a similar conversion on my Bundera however I kept the R151f box
Guts- the 80 series auto would be my pick if I was to do it again.
Guts- Currently running g52
Castlemaine Rod Shop have adaoptors to go from 1uz to th400 and 700`s.
Cooter- the surf box will work but it is easier to use the lex box because all the electronics are different
Webby- Mate, if you grab a half cut, you can swap the auto in very easily.
All I did was use the (Crown in my case) auto and the t'case from a surf will bolt directly to the back of the auto. It will require you to change the output shaft from a surf auto as well, but depending on you mech skills can do it yourself or outsource it.
I have seen many people try to use a complete surf auto and fails most time. Keep the half cut auto and the ECT/ECU will live happily ever after.
Cooling-Radiator
Bundy Monkey- I am running a 3 core bundera rad with twin AU thermos.
Cooter- xe v8 falcon radiator $ 40 local wrecker
Mico- I originally had my V6 runner rad modded to suit and it was fine in all conditions except on the beach where it would run hot if I wasn't driving into the wind, Hopefully the 75 series rad will fix this single heating issue
Clown Boy- I run a PWR Alloy from battery to battery wide, thick as would fit from top of engine bay to bottom of front cross member.
2x9" thermos (now removed and single 16" thermo being installed when I get home tonight)
Nemesis- Oh yeah, and the cooling is finally nailed thanks to the shoehorn of a FZJ75 cruiser radiator. The core is the same height and width from front on, but the massive thickness and header tanks would have nearly doubled capacity
Engine Mounts
Yes, what they said.......
My engine is mounted using the Celsior/LS400 alloy mounts off the motor. The chassis has had steel mounts fabricated/welded so the physical rubber engine mounts used are the original V6 ones which over here are cheaper and easier to find. Plus they're made to sit perfectly horizontal to prevent any lateral stress on the them.
Useful links
Useful links
Venoms website - http://www.venomcobras.com/WLooms.html
Sideshows website - http://spw.starkie.net/
Twisty’s pics – http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/gallery/album285
Lextreme - http://www.lextreme.com/forums/index.php
UZSwap (forum dedicated to UZ engine swaps into Toyota 4x4's) -http://www.uzswap.com/forum/index.php
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/show ... hp?t=29398
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/view ... hp?t=12572
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/view ... hp?t=12489
ECU wiring schematic PDF
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~russell ... CUwire.pdf
ECU pinout PDF
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~russell ... ECUpin.pdf
http://www.itplanet.net.au/Cressida/1UZ_history.htm
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
The 1UZFE thread
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
The 1UZFE thread
DX80 35's twin locked turbo diesel = TANG
www.jaybeecanvas.com
www.jaybeecanvas.com
My 1uzfe solid axle hilux
at Albury Wodonga 4wd Club
Or
at Australian 4WD Monthly Online Forums
A 40 series
A bundy
A Middy
Twisty's 4Runner
Nemises's 4Runner
A 75 Cruiser
A Hiace van
Another Hiace van
Questions about 1uz into 80 series
Questions about 1uz to cruiser auto`s etc
what can be removed from a 1uz
I'll add other threads to other conversions later or if you have one of you own either pm me a link or just post it up.
at Albury Wodonga 4wd Club
Or
at Australian 4WD Monthly Online Forums
A 40 series
A bundy
A Middy
Twisty's 4Runner
Nemises's 4Runner
A 75 Cruiser
A Hiace van
Another Hiace van
Questions about 1uz into 80 series
Questions about 1uz to cruiser auto`s etc
what can be removed from a 1uz
I'll add other threads to other conversions later or if you have one of you own either pm me a link or just post it up.
Last edited by MissDrew on Sun Jul 01, 2007 12:53 pm, edited 3 times in total.
good to see these motors get their own thread!,
well i'm up to about 4K (just under ATM) and im running a microtech LT10s, (the middy)looking at your costings there isn't much differance in using the standard ecu or aftermaket, it cost me 500 for the tune and that is all untill its sorted. and for the ease of installation i think it is a better option for people using later model halfcuts (ie: soarers IMO)
well i'm up to about 4K (just under ATM) and im running a microtech LT10s, (the middy)looking at your costings there isn't much differance in using the standard ecu or aftermaket, it cost me 500 for the tune and that is all untill its sorted. and for the ease of installation i think it is a better option for people using later model halfcuts (ie: soarers IMO)
1uzed and no home for it
what would you like to know?
cost 1100 and 90 for the laptop adaptor (not need thou)
easy as to wire in, it uses about 25-30ish wires
the reason i went to it was it runs mostly every thing but the idle stepper motor (you can use one out of a RB 30 ) and the knock sensors.
And you can run thermo fans with it, and set you own on off temps, and rev limits. and the best bit is if i choose to turbo it later it wont cost any more. tuning should cost around 500 bucks.
the only thing i'm not sure about is if the aftermaket ecu can be engineered. but if you get the engineers before you change it it wont matter ( i havnt looked in to get the after market ecu done)
cheers
thommo
cost 1100 and 90 for the laptop adaptor (not need thou)
easy as to wire in, it uses about 25-30ish wires
the reason i went to it was it runs mostly every thing but the idle stepper motor (you can use one out of a RB 30 ) and the knock sensors.
And you can run thermo fans with it, and set you own on off temps, and rev limits. and the best bit is if i choose to turbo it later it wont cost any more. tuning should cost around 500 bucks.
the only thing i'm not sure about is if the aftermaket ecu can be engineered. but if you get the engineers before you change it it wont matter ( i havnt looked in to get the after market ecu done)
cheers
thommo
1uzed and no home for it
Best engine for this Conversion I have been told is the Celsior Motor as you need a front sump version of the 1UZFE. If you get a complete package then your laughing as ECU can be used too.
Dellows has the complete adaptor kits needed.
CRS has the engine mounts (not required but optional)
and booflux and twisty for all the best personal advice
Dellows has the complete adaptor kits needed.
CRS has the engine mounts (not required but optional)
and booflux and twisty for all the best personal advice
http://conceptual.net.au/~peewee/wiring/
you will find a few here, but if you ask over at lextreme they will help.
you will find a few here, but if you ask over at lextreme they will help.
1uzed and no home for it
These pics might help a bit for anybody fitting a 1UZ into a hilux. This is into my 93 model Hilux. I also moved the gearbox and transfercase forward 35mm for firewall clearance.
Firewall massaging, this is the ac evap hump on the passengers side. The clutch and brake lines you see here have slightly different final resting places.
With motor fitted, passengers side clearance, its about 10mm at the smallest spot
Now here is something Ruff pointed out to me. A V6 4 runner has the pully for the handbrake running down the inside of the firewall. By changing to this setup you gain a heep of extra clearance.
If you look you can see the old bolt hole to the right. This is a bolt in mod other then drilling 1 hole and making a cover plate for the old holes. The cable is also about 100mm to short but is easily fix with the use of a turn buckel. Will see if I have any pics of it but don't think I do yet.
This is looking straight down at where the pully used to be in the engine bay, you can also see the back of the head and how much clearance it now has.
This is the clearance for a fan, thats 50mm RHS in there just for referance. That is also a crown clutch fan setup with the fan unbolted.
If you have any other pics you need then just ask and I'll see if I can find something for you.
Firewall massaging, this is the ac evap hump on the passengers side. The clutch and brake lines you see here have slightly different final resting places.
With motor fitted, passengers side clearance, its about 10mm at the smallest spot
Now here is something Ruff pointed out to me. A V6 4 runner has the pully for the handbrake running down the inside of the firewall. By changing to this setup you gain a heep of extra clearance.
If you look you can see the old bolt hole to the right. This is a bolt in mod other then drilling 1 hole and making a cover plate for the old holes. The cable is also about 100mm to short but is easily fix with the use of a turn buckel. Will see if I have any pics of it but don't think I do yet.
This is looking straight down at where the pully used to be in the engine bay, you can also see the back of the head and how much clearance it now has.
This is the clearance for a fan, thats 50mm RHS in there just for referance. That is also a crown clutch fan setup with the fan unbolted.
If you have any other pics you need then just ask and I'll see if I can find something for you.
Dude-call Mike at MV automatics in adelaide for any/all info regarding these transmissions.
(Located in Blackwood, 08 8370 0430)
I use one behind my turbo 1FZ for drag strip work that he has tricked up and it is brilliant. (the 1fz shoves 700+ hp through it)
Mike can arrange cltch pack upgrades, manualising the shift so you don't have to use a factor computer, big stall converters, trans brakes, faster, harder shifting valve bodies, etc etc.
Take it easy
Sean
(Located in Blackwood, 08 8370 0430)
I use one behind my turbo 1FZ for drag strip work that he has tricked up and it is brilliant. (the 1fz shoves 700+ hp through it)
Mike can arrange cltch pack upgrades, manualising the shift so you don't have to use a factor computer, big stall converters, trans brakes, faster, harder shifting valve bodies, etc etc.
Take it easy
Sean
Guts or someone,
If possible could you put a parts list together on what you need from start to finish to get one of these into a Lux ?? I don't want all the prices just a list to get all my homework done !!! I really want to go ahead with this conversion but need to cross my T's and dot my I's !!!
Cheers Guys!!!!
If possible could you put a parts list together on what you need from start to finish to get one of these into a Lux ?? I don't want all the prices just a list to get all my homework done !!! I really want to go ahead with this conversion but need to cross my T's and dot my I's !!!
Cheers Guys!!!!
Go Hard or Go Home!!!! Real Men Drink Goon!!!
Motor with what ever acc's you want like power steering ac etc
ECU, crown stand alone is easiest but not a must as soarer ones will still work its just a bit more in the wiring to trick it so that it thinks its in neutral or park.
Charcoal canister (to be truly legal you do) but if you had an injected petrol already your rig will have one.
Air Flow Meter and some piping
Igniters (thanks thommo)
Bell housing fly wheel etc
shorter front shaft
longer rear shaft
Modified radiator inlets and outlets
Thermo fans
custom power steering hi presser line
power steering cooler (you can get away without but you'll end up cooking the ps)
After market temp gauge, EVERYBODY that has tried to use just the standard dash gauge has ended up cooking the motor as they don't seam to read with the 1uz for some reason and nobody knows why.
fuel lines flared with fittings
V6 4 runner handbreak setup and then something to extent it about 150mm. I used a stainless turn buckle
Either a small oil filter or a remote kit, some can fit the filter, some can't.
Something to make up custom engine mounts as nobody makes them. They make them to suit 2wd hiluxs but not the 4x4 ones.
A one way valve for the brake vacum lines if you had a diesel.
Sump, depends on what motor you get and what model lux you have.
While you going check your rig has a good earth strap from chassis to body and another good one from chassis to motor.
I'm certain there are other things which I have missed, I'll add them as I think of them.
ECU, crown stand alone is easiest but not a must as soarer ones will still work its just a bit more in the wiring to trick it so that it thinks its in neutral or park.
Charcoal canister (to be truly legal you do) but if you had an injected petrol already your rig will have one.
Air Flow Meter and some piping
Igniters (thanks thommo)
Bell housing fly wheel etc
shorter front shaft
longer rear shaft
Modified radiator inlets and outlets
Thermo fans
custom power steering hi presser line
power steering cooler (you can get away without but you'll end up cooking the ps)
After market temp gauge, EVERYBODY that has tried to use just the standard dash gauge has ended up cooking the motor as they don't seam to read with the 1uz for some reason and nobody knows why.
fuel lines flared with fittings
V6 4 runner handbreak setup and then something to extent it about 150mm. I used a stainless turn buckle
Either a small oil filter or a remote kit, some can fit the filter, some can't.
Something to make up custom engine mounts as nobody makes them. They make them to suit 2wd hiluxs but not the 4x4 ones.
A one way valve for the brake vacum lines if you had a diesel.
Sump, depends on what motor you get and what model lux you have.
While you going check your rig has a good earth strap from chassis to body and another good one from chassis to motor.
I'm certain there are other things which I have missed, I'll add them as I think of them.
Twisted by Design
Below is a link to a very detailed thread on 4wd Action forum of dropping a 1uz into a V6 auto 4runner.
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/show ... hp?t=65106
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/show ... hp?t=65106
2012 FJ Cruiser
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
booflux wrote:Mine was done in Qld with aftermarket and passed the engineers cert no worries.
They pass in QLd but if a policeman ever wants to be picky and spots it isnt a stock ecu, they'll send you for an emissions test which costs big dollars, pass or fail.
I looked into 1uz'ing my hilux awhile ago, it seemed the crown???? front cuts were best for luxs as the extractors were as tight as they came off the heads to allow them to be used for the conversion without going to custom extractors.
Well both, im not totally on top of how an auto works, but the stall speed of the converter must be pretty important ....frp88 wrote:Is this due to the different speed or you mean the different characteristicsHobbz wrote:what converter would you use when mating a 440f with a 1uzfe ?
between diesel and petrol
Also the converter from the lexus dosent fit an 440f auto ... so i would think that the converter from the 100 series is the way to go, but im not sure as i havent personally put i together ....
Anyone know for sure ???
GQ 2.8TD. OME. 35 BFG. Fact. Rear Locker on steroids. Air Locker front. Gearmaster Reduction. 6HP Warn 8274.
1UZFE conversion
To all people considering a 1uzfe conversion in anything, under any circumstances "DO NOT USE CRS KITS" .This company is an absolute farce and should not be in buisness, the only reason that some people have had good results in the past is Rod Hatfeild and his knowledge of automotive conversions. Well he no longer owns this buisness and any chance of getting a quality kit or even a kit that goes remotely close to fitting you vehicle has gone with him. I am speaking from my own personal experience with this company and have had several people contact me with the same tale of woe, some how the fact that they sent me a Ford toploader kit for my Toyota was my fault, and after sevral phone calls to CRS sales to discuss the issue I was told that i did not know what i was talking about, just bolt the motor in, "WE HAVE DONE DOZENS" . Well when i finally convinced them that "NOTHING" was even remotely close they said send it back and we will rectify the issue.
Well that was my second mistake [the first being the purchase], once they had my kit, and i know they had it as i tracked the parcel then came two months of silence and not returning calls or emails or help of any kind, apon finally contacting them came the month and a half of lies until i found out that they actually dont make a kit at all and have "NEVER" done one. Meanwhile i have a registered daily driver that is not worth a squirt and their final answer to this saga was"WELL WE HAVE YOUR KIT AND YOUR MONEY SO WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO DO NOW" end of story.
So far letters of demand from my solicitor and action pending in the Dept of Fair Trading have not budged them in reimbursing my funds, isnt that "THEFT" gents ? well it would be if i had done it. So now i have had to do the impossible according to CRS and manufacture my own bellhousing adaptor/engine mounts and clutch kit which has "DOUBLED" the initial conversion cost through no fault of my own other than trusting CRS.
The whole debacle has cost me $1600.00 for the kit, plus solicitors fees, plus my manufacturing costs,plus the loss of my vehicle for nearly four months and it then ran out of rego just to top it off and to to this day CRS has refused to contact me of offer an explanation. Never have i been so scr@wed out of my hard earned money and time by such profesionals.
On a much more positive note "Marks 4WD" and "Dellow" have supplied me with many kits in the past and could not do enough to help, they even replaced a part that was wrong or offered a refund if they could not, "Pat Gardner" also has grouse gear for you Commy enthusiasts, and also fits WHAT A PLUS!
So ladies and gents unless you like to throw away big dollars on a pack of lies and have months without your vehicle on the road all i can say is
"DO NOT BUY A CASTLEMAIN ROD SHOP CONVERSION KIT"
Well that was my second mistake [the first being the purchase], once they had my kit, and i know they had it as i tracked the parcel then came two months of silence and not returning calls or emails or help of any kind, apon finally contacting them came the month and a half of lies until i found out that they actually dont make a kit at all and have "NEVER" done one. Meanwhile i have a registered daily driver that is not worth a squirt and their final answer to this saga was"WELL WE HAVE YOUR KIT AND YOUR MONEY SO WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO DO NOW" end of story.
So far letters of demand from my solicitor and action pending in the Dept of Fair Trading have not budged them in reimbursing my funds, isnt that "THEFT" gents ? well it would be if i had done it. So now i have had to do the impossible according to CRS and manufacture my own bellhousing adaptor/engine mounts and clutch kit which has "DOUBLED" the initial conversion cost through no fault of my own other than trusting CRS.
The whole debacle has cost me $1600.00 for the kit, plus solicitors fees, plus my manufacturing costs,plus the loss of my vehicle for nearly four months and it then ran out of rego just to top it off and to to this day CRS has refused to contact me of offer an explanation. Never have i been so scr@wed out of my hard earned money and time by such profesionals.
On a much more positive note "Marks 4WD" and "Dellow" have supplied me with many kits in the past and could not do enough to help, they even replaced a part that was wrong or offered a refund if they could not, "Pat Gardner" also has grouse gear for you Commy enthusiasts, and also fits WHAT A PLUS!
So ladies and gents unless you like to throw away big dollars on a pack of lies and have months without your vehicle on the road all i can say is
"DO NOT BUY A CASTLEMAIN ROD SHOP CONVERSION KIT"
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 30 guests