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ok so my 73 has a 6.2l chev oiler in it, was adapted to the 73 manual box (bj) pulled it out when I killed it as I got a good reco t400 with adaptor and sump kit (marks) off fleebay, ran into some problem with the crossmember and ended up moving to qld before I finnised it, but looks like I will heading back next week so I want to get it fissished and start driving it again as over 12 months with no decent wheeling has got me twitcing
now I ended up with a low stall convertor from brunswick (6bolt) and have the gearbox loosly bolted to the engine, but it feels a little off. When I did my research initially I was under the impression that the 6.2 should have bolted straight up, but I am wary due to the tightness.
now I have done some more reading and somewhere I have goten the impression that the t400 \ holden 8 pattern is very close but not quite the same as the chev pattern.
I am wondereing if anyone has had any experience with this either with the oiler or a petty chev engine onto the t400, I am under the impresion that although it is different there is a plate available, can I get this from say dellows or even marks, and what does this do in regards to lenghts, does it need a different shaft \ jack shaft, fine as it is
all the one's i have seen the box bolted to the engine glide th350 th400 th700 are all chev pattern trimatic is aussie what is tight when you bolt it up?
Modified Toy wrote:all the one's i have seen the box bolted to the engine glide th350 th400 th700 are all chev pattern trimatic is aussie what is tight when you bolt it up?
all the bolts seem to have gone in, but they seem to be pulling a litle off centre and has not come right in yet, although I have not put a huge amount of pressure on them out of fear of shearing one
just to clarify, you say t400 you know in aus are the chev pattern? ie there should be no probs bolting this up
it looked right before I put it in, and the pattern seems to be lined up, was the tightness and what I read somewhere that got me a little worried
I've had a turbo 350 and turbo 400 Gearbox behind a 350 chev and it bolted straight up so I don't see your engine having a different bolt pattern.
By the way, mum keeps asking me if your grandma still makes that blackberry jam ? I may have get some off you if she does.
Cheers,
Nath
thanks mate, will persavere with it, blackberries are in short supply thanks to the poisaning thing in the ACT, but see wht we can do.....will catch up when I get back, due to have a beer with heaps of people.......prolly end up with a drinking problem after it all
brad, the gbox is very close and on the dowls, its the last bit and felt like it was pulling, have always put the same engine and gearbox combo back together after clutch changes etc so has always been smoth sailing, this is new for me and it just felt funny so thought it best not to risk until I did some more homework......certianly looks like I am fine though and will spend some time and work the bolts one by one and see how it goes
I also say you should check that the convertor is all the way in, hotrod4x4 is right. the convertor wil need to go in further by the sound of it. Sometimes they are a bit of a shit to get right in & other times they will fall in.
it's never a problem until it can't be fixed, even then it' only a minor set back
best way to fit the converter is stand the auto up on its end then lower the converter on to the input shaft and you should feel 3 stages as is drops on and the when the converter is all the way on it should be very close to the bell housing. Barely get fingers between converter and the bell housing.
Once the box is in and tight slide the converter up to the flex plate then tighten
GU 42td wagon for touring
GU ute for the fun stuff
http://www.allterrain4wd.org.au/
check convertor,
give the dowls and dowl holes a bit of a tidy up with some emry paper and a little grease to help it slide in.
also check the dowls arnt to long for the holes
hotrod4x4 wrote:thats a good way of doing it.......if u wanna put the converter in dry.
most people tend to half fill a converter first to prevent a dry start up.
Thats the way i was taught back when i was an apprentice. never had a problem with any box i have done this way. Besides the you generally fill the box with enough oil so on start up the pump picks up straight away besides nothing is assembled dry on any sort of bearing or bush
GU 42td wagon for touring
GU ute for the fun stuff
http://www.allterrain4wd.org.au/
thanks guys, have allready half filled the convertor once it was bolted on the flex plate, it is a 6 olt and is rather ard to get the bolts in whith the gbox out of the way, dont think I would have much luck with it if I slid it on the gearbox first. sounds like I need to check the dowls more than anything
WHAT!!! i have never even contemplated fitting the convertor to the flex plate and then putting the auto it. getting the convertor onto the auto is bad enough whilst it all sitting on the floor.
convertor bolts are always hard to do up but u just need to take your time and take the skin off your knuckles, use a wide assortment of unis, spanners, rachets, extensions, screwdrivers, air rachets and even rattle guns!! im sure theres a tool to make it easier, just need to find it!!
what makes it even more of a PITA when you should do them up in the same fasion as wheel nuts and go over em all once agian to check they tight.
to put it into context at times it has taken me over 10 minutes trying to spin a convertor on properly, and have then gone to put the box in and had the same problem u have, then pull it back down and spin it around for another 10 mins to get it right.
it would take forever and a day to get the convertor right spinning it by the crankshaft 20+ times to line up and u need to suspend the weight of the box perfect to line up at the same time, the pump shaft on the convertor isnt the strongest either and not designed to hold any weight,
maybe try doing up the convertor bolts through the starter motor hole.
Jacked wrote:WHAT!!! i have never even contemplated fitting the convertor to the flex plate and then putting the auto it. getting the convertor onto the auto is bad enough whilst it all sitting on the floor.
convertor bolts are always hard to do up but u just need to take your time and take the skin off your knuckles, use a wide assortment of unis, spanners, rachets, extensions, screwdrivers, air rachets and even rattle guns!! im sure theres a tool to make it easier, just need to find it!!
what makes it even more of a PITA when you should do them up in the same fasion as wheel nuts and go over em all once agian to check they tight.
to put it into context at times it has taken me over 10 minutes trying to spin a convertor on properly, and have then gone to put the box in and had the same problem u have, then pull it back down and spin it around for another 10 mins to get it right.
it would take forever and a day to get the convertor right spinning it by the crankshaft 20+ times to line up and u need to suspend the weight of the box perfect to line up at the same time, the pump shaft on the convertor isnt the strongest either and not designed to hold any weight,
maybe try doing up the convertor bolts through the starter motor hole.
the convertor seems to have slipped on ok.......it took us hours to do it.....just ask wayne but seems to be ok. the problem with getting the covertor on afterwards is there is a very deep dish on the flex plate when it bolts up......it may be possible, and I would suggest that the starter hole would be the best if it is possible, if I have to take it off, I will try this way
the gearbox is very close to the engine, no more than a couple of mm at the worst spot, will persavere with it at this stage before pulling it off
Jacked wrote:WHAT!!! i have never even contemplated fitting the convertor to the flex plate and then putting the auto it. getting the convertor onto the auto is bad enough whilst it all sitting on the floor.
convertor bolts are always hard to do up but u just need to take your time and take the skin off your knuckles, use a wide assortment of unis, spanners, rachets, extensions, screwdrivers, air rachets and even rattle guns!! im sure theres a tool to make it easier, just need to find it!!
what makes it even more of a PITA when you should do them up in the same fasion as wheel nuts and go over em all once agian to check they tight.
to put it into context at times it has taken me over 10 minutes trying to spin a convertor on properly, and have then gone to put the box in and had the same problem u have, then pull it back down and spin it around for another 10 mins to get it right.
it would take forever and a day to get the convertor right spinning it by the crankshaft 20+ times to line up and u need to suspend the weight of the box perfect to line up at the same time, the pump shaft on the convertor isnt the strongest either and not designed to hold any weight,
maybe try doing up the convertor bolts through the starter motor hole.
the convertor seems to have slipped on ok.......it took us hours to do it.....just ask wayne but seems to be ok. the problem with getting the covertor on afterwards is there is a very deep dish on the flex plate when it bolts up......it may be possible, and I would suggest that the starter hole would be the best if it is possible, if I have to take it off, I will try this way
the gearbox is very close to the engine, no more than a couple of mm at the worst spot, will persavere with it at this stage before pulling it off
best thing you can do is take it all back out and put the converter on the box first.
If the converter is not on properly, you are risking destroying the converter and the box with in about .5 seconds the first time you hit the key to start it.
brad-chevlux wrote:
best thing you can do is take it all back out and put the converter on the box first.
If the converter is not on properly, you are risking destroying the converter and the box with in about .5 seconds the first time you hit the key to start it.
fair enough......anyone in sydney want to re install a gearbox and make a crossmmer for the gearbox???? ICBF at the moment, be much esier with a hoist and gearbox stand
Tiny, i had a 6.5 chev with 6bolt T700, once the box is bolted to the engine the converter is easy to do up.
Pull it apart, put the converter on the auto (spin it a few times and push it back, it willl eventually engage into place) then the auto will bolt straight on. T350,400,700 all share the same chev bellhousing pattern.
I really hope you haven't fucked the pump by trying to pull the auto onto the converter, this is very very common.
Fitting an auto is a bit different to doing a manual
6.5 rangie wrote:Tiny, i had a 6.5 chev with 6bolt T700, once the box is bolted to the engine the converter is easy to do up.
Pull it apart, put the converter on the auto (spin it a few times and push it back, it willl eventually engage into place) then the auto will bolt straight on. T350,400,700 all share the same chev bellhousing pattern.
I really hope you haven't . the pump by trying to pull the auto onto the converter, this is very very common.
Fitting an auto is a bit different to doing a manual
tisted and played with the box until it slid on, but sounds like I need to pull it off. How do I check the pump?
also can you tell me how you ran the shift kit with it. I have a B&M quicksilver shift kit for it and was hoping to run it sort of semi auto ie slot it in the gear i want and have it hold there until I manually changed the gear, is a ratchet style shifter so just whack it back to the gear I want, only thing is reverse will be an effort for quick back and fils etc, but really shouldnt cause to many issues.....this is the second auto vehicle I wil have had so I really dont know crap about them
once u get used to the shifter, you'll be surprised how quickly u can learn to get to reverse.
just look at events like summernats, Kandos etc with the street machine guys doing grass events with reverse.....done it myself.
other than that, there are some with a dual pattern.....upper like a normal auto and rachet lower level. Hurst is one that has these. still not as quick as factory shofters, but a little simpler.
If you have the quicksilver already, just use it and get practice.....I've used them before in car grass events and got into reverse before coming to a stop in the gates.....u just need practice.
Modified Toy wrote:all the one's i have seen the box bolted to the engine glide th350 th400 th700 are all chev pattern trimatic is aussie what is tight when you bolt it up?
Tiny,
you have a bloke here who knows whats hes on about. and owns an auto trans shop.
Modified Toy wrote:all the one's i have seen the box bolted to the engine glide th350 th400 th700 are all chev pattern trimatic is aussie what is tight when you bolt it up?
Tiny,
you have a bloke here who knows whats hes on about. and owns an auto trans shop.
where is his shop............might put the shorty on the trailer and take it down to him when I get back to shitney
Modified Toy wrote:all the one's i have seen the box bolted to the engine glide th350 th400 th700 are all chev pattern trimatic is aussie what is tight when you bolt it up?
Tiny,
you have a bloke here who knows whats hes on about. and owns an auto trans shop.
where is his shop............might put the shorty on the trailer and take it down to him when I get back to shitney
Modified Toy wrote:all the one's i have seen the box bolted to the engine glide th350 th400 th700 are all chev pattern trimatic is aussie what is tight when you bolt it up?
Tiny,
you have a bloke here who knows whats hes on about. and owns an auto trans shop.
where is his shop............might put the shorty on the trailer and take it down to him when I get back to shitney
out of all this i didnt see anyone mention that you need to turn the converter anti clock wise until all the steps have been met tou are turning it anti clockwise arent you
grant d wrote:out of all this i didnt see anyone mention that you need to turn the converter anti clock wise until all the steps have been met tou are turning it anti clockwise arent you
GU 42td wagon for touring
GU ute for the fun stuff
http://www.allterrain4wd.org.au/
grant d wrote:out of all this i didnt see anyone mention that you need to turn the converter anti clock wise until all the steps have been met tou are turning it anti clockwise arent you
It does not matter what way you turn it as long as it all the way in the box
before you bolt it to the engine, and not bolted the engine first or pump damage will occur...
Easy way to work out is to put a straight edge accross the bell housing face and measure from this to the pillar on the convertor that sits against the flex plate take note of distance now measure from the same place on the flex plate to the mating surface on the block, the block distance needs to be shorter than the Transmission to convertor distance if it is your good to go.
tou are turning it anti clockwise arent you 
