Green light for power in an 80 - opinions on how to get it?

[ash_on_mtb]

Finally, the green light has been given to a power upgrade... Well, ideally the green light was given to a whole car upgrade, but I kinda like mine and with the amount of things thats been replaced and modified, I'm not really sure I want to embark on that whole experience again... With a west coast trip coming up next year, and fraser in a few weeks to cement how slow a N/A 1HZ is, its been deemed a priority. So, that leaves me with increasing this 1HZ's motivation and all things associated.

Starting with a budget, lets say 8 grand. Ideally 5, 10 at worst, driving away.

So what are my options?

Currently - 1991 1HZ, 340,000km. Manual. 33"' and staying that way.

I'd like to swap the engine to something fresher and engineered to deal with the added strain of a turbo, but if thats out of the question, I guess its going to be bolt on turbo.

Likes: Turbo. Diesel. A lot fresher than 340,000...!!

Dislikes: Handgrenades. Bolting a turbo onto the side, then having to stress the thing so hard to get the performance out of it that is required...

Uses: Touring. Daily driver for a carpenter. Towing a heavy ski boat.

It has to be reliable, come in under budget including all the other things that will be required with whatever option I go with (machining flywheel, clutch inevitably, intercooler, vent etc?!)

So what are my options, and who should I go and talk to (SE Melbourne)

Cheers,

[bogged]

Give Andy at Dieseltec a call.. he has one himself... He was running compound turbos on it at one stage...

$8,000 should get you fuck loads of power...

what condition is the engine in? Turbo may fawk it in no time, any turbo will add stress to the engine... if it isnt in top condition, then I'd think of the engine swap, which you should be able to get done for $10,000 depending on donk.

[+dj_hansen+]

8k, with a bit of DIY along the way you could get a nice turbo 1HZ setup i think. 340,000 isnt a great deal of KM's depending on what sort of life its had, as a bare minimum you would get a compression and leak down test down to determine what condition the piston bore are in, does it start first hit? hunt a little at idle? these are some early signs of lowering compression.

Depending on when the pump and injectors where done, these would need a going over, looking at around the $3k mark drive in drive out id expect, you could save a few dollar by doing the injectors yourself, but ideally you would get the lot done to suit a turbo all at once.

I know turbo glide sell turbo kits on ebay, you could also go down the path of chasing up a complete 1HDT exhaust manifold and CT26 turbo kit from a wrecker and doing even more DIY. Have a read of zoltan's member thread, he is doing a 1HZ turbo setup at the moment, there was rockcrawler31 up in QLD who did a troopy cut down and used a 1HDT manifold/CT26 on his 1HZ.

If you were prepared to, you could squeeze a 1HDT motor conversion for under $8k, but for a 1HDFT or 1HDFTE, a motor is worth that alone or if not more, and not taking into needing a different clutch/input shaft to suit the turbo motor and any wiring or mechanical hook up you couldnt do yourself.

Go and talk to andy at dieseltec, he should be able to steer you in the right direction, but there is also rankin (bayswater), ag diesel (dandenong), atoc (belgrave) and from memory most ARB stores are stockists for safari turbo systems.

PS - bogged, iirc Andy's truck is a 1HDT not 1HZ - slightly different motor.

[bogged]

PS - bogged, iirc Andy's truck is a 1HDT not 1HZ - slightly different motor.

Ta dude, not a Yota person, they all look the same to us...
Now what is the difference in the 2?

[ash_on_mtb]

thanks for the reply's guys.

I'm a bit apprehensive on the engine prior to a comp test... I've owned it for about 40'000 of those k's and it goes fine. Pump and injectors made it a new motor by the seat of the pants, but I'd like to hold onto it for a while if I go down this road. Hence considering a larger investment.

Starts close to first hit after glow plugs warm 'er up. I wouldn't say it hunts around, seems to all be pretty healthy really. My concern is the added strain of upping the power... I understand they don't have oil squirters and some other bits and bobs, and they have chambers in places that are unconducive to big power, but I'm not sure thats me anyway...

There are so many conflicting stories about repowering, bolt-on's and general longevity - its a big gold plated bullet to bite!

I want reliability, more power but nothing crazy and I guess I want someone to go back to should it all . up... I'm seeing DZLTec's name pop up time and time again, so maybe I should have a yarn...

Is this the general consensus from people?

[lump_a_charcoal]

Gas injection maybe?

[rr215]

Well you did ask for options...

Check out: http://www.marks4wd.com, if you haven't already.

Just had a quick look, a Chevy Diesel V8 conversion kit costs around $3000, but I'm not sure how much motors are.

Here's a link to a pic from the site:

http://www.marks4wd.com/images/products ... 01hz-1.JPG

Good luck anyway

[ash_on_mtb]

don't want to go petrol V8, nor do I want to go american diesel - neither are my thing. A 308 in the boat is closest I'll get that way... Would prefer to use something that Toyota kinda intended to call home in there, perhaps I'm old fashioned but their R&D budget exceeds mine. I've read a few too many negative stories about chev etc, not saying they are bad, just have read enough stories to realise they (like most, sure) have flaws.

Gas injection - looking for a bit more motivation than that system offers, plus I have a 30L air tank in that location.

Thanks!

[Z()LTAN]

the 1hz's do have oil squirters mate.

The piston crowns and head are the only things that are a problem with the increased combustion heat with a turbo.

If you get a good intercooler and keep an eye on the EGT's then u can run about 15 psi and have about 70% more output than standard and it will last.

If you really dinkum about doing this, put in 1HT conrods and pistons (they have a larger gudgeon pin and better oil cooling in the piston crown), lower the Compression from 22:1 to about 18-19:1. Get the head ported and beefed up with heavier valve springs and nitrated valves.

U can get a cam made with a few thou more lift to take advantage of the extra air charge.

After doing this, you can get a new pump with a 1HDT head on it with 12mm plungers.

Doing this with the right turbo and subsequent accessorys you can be looking at almost 300rwkw.

[ash_on_mtb]

woah, we're goin a little crazy now!

For arguements sake, who'd guess a rough dollar figure for what Zoltan is suggesting? Last time I played with engine heads, my own head was spinning as the $$ racked up..!! Although that is going to be cheaper than a whole new engine granted.

15PSI and a whole lot more power does sound nice tho! And the lasting thing has a really sweet ring

So port the head, up the valve springs, lower the compression (spacing the head??) and 1HT pistons and conrods, then turbo/IC it...

The pump can stay unless ya'll deem it essential.

So how's my budget going..??

[mickbeny]

Hi all...Ash,dont waste your money on the 1HZ when toyota make the factory turbo engines that are far more superior.Ive been down the turboed 1HZ road,and it isnt worth the money.If your fairdinkum about reliability,dont even consider the 1HZ turboed.

[AFeral]

How about this lot for sale

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic167041.php

[ADM01]

I agree with mickbenny, I have been down that path (1HZ intercooled turbo) was only running 9psi post cooler and egt's under 500 and cracked pistons @ 150000kms after fitted (engine 45000kms when turboed) I have 2 1HD-FTE utes and my brother has a 12HT and a 1HDT. Any one of these motors IMO is a far better option. Try exhange your 1HZ for a rebuilt 1HDT. If you spend 8k on a 340 000km 1HZ you will make more power, but i'd think twice about touring too far from home.
I have a 2UZFE if your real serious.
Cheers, Adam

[ash_on_mtb]

Alright so here are my options as I see it...


a) Do as much to the original 1HZ as affordable, allowing for turbo, IC and exhaust, and clutch/machining... So that would leave about 3000 I'm rough guessing out of an 8000 budget...? How much internal work is 3000 going to get me - not a great deal in the scheme of things me thinks...

b) 'find' a rebuilt 1HD-T and do an exchange, allowing for exhaust and clutch type stuff, as well as the usual bits and pieces.. How close would I be getting to that motor, price wise?

There are two schools of thought it would seem - thoughts that would 'have a crack' and those that go the conservative road, would I be right? I'd personally like to go down the road of the 1HD-T, but I don't see how I can afford it?

Which theoretically leaves me with fixing up the old one.. New pistons/conrods, bearings, harden'd crank, turbo, IC, exhaust, clutch etc...

I just don't want it to let go in the next few years... But its not a matter of waiting for more $$ - the figure is what it is.

What to do, what to do...

[+dj_hansen+]

Given that you already have the pump and injectors done, thats a big chunk of the cost already taken care off, the pump timing and fuel delivery will just need to be tweaked to account for the turbo.

Then assuming your cooling system is in reasonable condition, i would go with option a). Yes the 1HZ has pre-combustion chambers, but in conservative forced induction applications, they arent really an issue, and in touring trucks there is plenty of 1HZ's around that have done as many km's as yours has with turbos without a problem.

Turbo kit, $3k - $4k
Clutch $1k
Tune - up to $1k
DIY intercooler $500
$500 left for things you forget.

Bogged, 1HDT motor is direct injection, bigger rods, different pistons, from crank up is different to the 1HZ models.

[mickbeny]

Hi all...Look at the online auction centers like pickles or fowles for a write off factory turbo diesel.You will suprised how cheap they can go for.

[80diesel4play]

1HZ for the application you are looking at will be fine.

As per my PM - if buy smart and get the right bits, you can make $3k on the motor go a very long way.

I will be down sommerville way soon seeing on4tou to get my HID's installed, so if you want I can take you for a run in my thing to give you an idea of potential. I spent a bit more than your budget but I did have a blown motor to start with...

For what you need and intend, follow the KISS principal and you'll be fine. Mine was built for a particular purpose so I will be happy to get 100K-200K out of the engine. It's just clicked over 15,000k's so it's run in and I am doing a full system upgrade on the turbo. I'm aiming for 160Kw + at the wheels so it's a very different setup from what i have now.

Anyway - gimme a bell if you want to bounce ideas - 0425 713 827
Paulo

[fester2au]

Pick yourself up a 1HD-FTE out of a ute they are much simpler to wire than the wagon and can be had for a fly shit under $8,000 with everything you need. Might have to change clutch not sure, but then you might be able to sell o the 1HZ for enough to get a little assistance with the wiring. Dig up all the old threads by mud4b who alrady has done it and you'd probably get most of your wiring details there then spend a few bucks finishing it off with an auto leccie.

[Hamo]

Did 1hz's come out with a factory fitted turbo or where they all dealer fitted turbo's. I'm looking to buy an 80 and one i've seen claims to have a factory fitted turbo i just dont know if they did have factory fitted turbo's and i dont want to buy some one else's junk
Can you tell by the engine number

[+dj_hansen+]

Did 1hz's come out with a factory fitted turbo or where they all dealer fitted turbo's. I'm looking to buy an 80 and one i've seen claims to have a factory fitted turbo i just dont know if they did have factory fitted turbo's and i dont want to buy some one else's junk
Can you tell by the engine number

Apparently there are some factory 1HZ-T, however both rocking horse poo and hens teeth appear more common and easier to find. Tell us the engine/model number, unless on the silver plate in the engine code it has 1hz-t then it is aftermarket, or they have been pretty tricky and made up a fake plate

[Hamo]

Did 1hz's come out with a factory fitted turbo or where they all dealer fitted turbo's. I'm looking to buy an 80 and one i've seen claims to have a factory fitted turbo i just dont know if they did have factory fitted turbo's and i dont want to buy some one else's junk
Can you tell by the engine number

Apparently there are some factory 1HZ-T, however both rocking horse poo and hens teeth appear more common and easier to find. Tell us the engine/model number, unless on the silver plate in the engine code it has 1hz-t then it is aftermarket, or they have been pretty tricky and made up a fake plate

Ok 1hz-t i'll look out for that when i go and have a look
Thanks Hamo

[Rick269]

Take any 'must-keep' bits off the thing, sell it for ~$12k (More or less but we haven't seen it), spend another 8k or so and get another 80, but this time a 1HD-T Sahara or even a Multivalve (1HD-FT). I bought a multi for under 17k, 260,000km, hydraulic winch, diff locks etc. etc. only a few months ago and I've seen a few more since then for well under 20k. A much better option than spending a whackload on the engine or going for conversions IMO. My brother spent 6 months and over 20k fitting a Chev 6.5 into his once-petrol 80, together with the Chev auto and then turboed it and he reckons if he had to do it all again he would have sold it and just bought a factory Toyota turbo diesel instead.

[ash_on_mtb]

google is letting me down - who's got some names of places to search to find a reco engine?? Or is it all secret squirel? 1HD-T...

The idea of a new truck is kinda growing on me, but thats a shedload of unbolting stuff...

Stilll, a nice shiny new donk in this one would be pretty tasty...

[ADM01]

option c) look on ebay or trading post for a factory turbo 80 with reasonable engine. Swap engines, boxes, exhausts and what ever else seems good and flog it off again a few grand less. You will probably find a mate who will help you do the swap, and take the 2nd 80 of you hands at the end.
Adam