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Whats the go with OEM parts replacement prices? I had to replace the clutch slave cylinder and radiator in my Raider over the last couple of weeks.
Ford wanted $189 for the slave cylinder. Mazda wanted $112.
I got it from Auto 1 for $59
Trade price for OEM radiator with plastic tanks was $600.
I got a new radiator with metal tanks for $308
It makes me wonder if the big guys are just trying to make the spares department so unattractive that they can put more effort into flogging new vehicles
Nev62 wrote:Ford wanted $189 for the slave cylinder. Mazda wanted $112.
I got it from Auto 1 for $59
buyin the cheaper alternative doesnt always work out in your favor.. sometimes they are shit piss poor fucking crappy import parts that shit themselves in no time, like the aftermarket GQ clutch fans.
bogged wrote:buyin the cheaper alternative doesnt always work out in your favor.. sometimes they are shit piss poor ***** crappy import parts that shit themselves in no time, like the aftermarket GQ clutch fans.
Whilst true for some things, I'm guessing my new metal radiator will outlast the OEM item with plastic tanks. From what I can gather, spliting plastic header tanks at around 215000km is comon (mine lasted till 250000km).
I think it is because they are running what is called a business. The aim of this business is to make money so they charge what they deem to be a reasonable price that will make them a profit. Quite a good idea actually.
Also you will find they are usually of a better quality than most aftermarket/rip offs so can be used when servicing the cars by the manufacturer and for insurance jobs too. A factiry part is more likely to fit first time every time than the one bought for half the price from somewhere else.
grimbo wrote:I think it is because they are running what is called a business. The aim of this business is to make money so they charge what they deem to be a reasonable price that will make them a profit. Quite a good idea actually.
Also you will find they are usually of a better quality than most aftermarket/rip offs so can be used when servicing the cars by the manufacturer and for insurance jobs too. A factiry part is more likely to fit first time every time than the one bought for half the price from somewhere else.
While all the above may be true .. most factory parts are built to a price with a specification comming in a secondary consideration.. as well as how the engineers want the car to "feel" ..
Buy a fanbelt from nissan for an RB30 motor, from memory it was about $40 for the EXACT same belt you can get from repco or holden for around $8 to $10 .. (made by the same manufacturer)
A "genuine" air filter for the 4.5 GU is over $100 the ryco equiv is $55 .. etc Nissan "duralube" is almost as costly as a full synth oil .. They charge what the like as there is huge money to be made ..
Not that the aftermarket is free of rorting Like a headlight globe for a honda .. Trade price of $22 RRP of $78 My fater in law runs an autospares bussiness .. for a small company he makes a pretty good living ..
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Its a basic marketing principle of supply and demand. The seller sets the highest price they think they can get away with, and only lower it until they are happy with the total gain they make from volume x margin. If they are happy making good money with low turn-over, why bother reducing the price to get higher turn-over, if it doesn't improve the bottom line?
If you can get an equivalent for a better price, buy it!
Normal industry markup used to be and probably still is 300-400% on Factory Replacement parts. Non factory varies based on what they can sell them for versus what else will do the job anyway, but the markup is like 30-100% not 300-400% on average.
I can accept a business making a reasonable profit (god knows holding a couple of million bucks of stock demans a reasonable mark up, but only if they do hold the stock and not backorder everything and make you wait 3 weeks like a lot of them do).
If money's an issue, unless you have to... don't use factory parts. Or Factory servicing either.
In some cases they are better... but without first buying and trying you're not gonna know which is and which isn't worth it. A good reason to own one car for 10 years.......
I remember from my time as a bike mechanic we hated it when the boss bought non OEM stuff...(which he did all the time cos he was cheap and so were all the customers). For every part we bought non OEM that worked perfectly, every second one needed at least half an hour of fiddling/repair/modification to make work.
Fine if it's your own beast, but not fine when you have to waste workshop time and charge it out to the customer.
mike wrote:I get the impression that OEM parts are geared up for the insurance repair market.
That would be why it's industry standard to shave a certain % of insurance claim costs....
But the problem is that squeezes out the middleman (the repairer) cos he has to make a profit too, so they then cut corners and do substandard work or use secondhand or repair parts which should be replaced on the original quote.
Nev62 wrote:Whats the go with OEM parts replacement prices? I had to replace the clutch slave cylinder and radiator in my Raider over the last couple of weeks.
Ford wanted $189 for the slave cylinder. Mazda wanted $112.
I got it from Auto 1 for $59
Trade price for OEM radiator with plastic tanks was $600.
I got a new radiator with metal tanks for $308
It makes me wonder if the big guys are just trying to make the spares department so unattractive that they can put more effort into flogging new vehicles
Having a car that you can buy Parts from Ford/Mazda or Holden/Toyota usually is a godsend for prices if you have to buy factory parts.
I know that you often found these price discrepancies.... completely unjustified of course.
Still better than both of them quoting $189 isnt it? Or worse only having one place to go to so being quoted $189, or worse again $289 due to lack of competition.
[quote="love_mud"]Buy a fanbelt from nissan for an RB30 motor, from memory it was about $40 for the EXACT same belt you can get from repco or holden for around $8 to $10 .. (made by the same manufacturer)
A "genuine" air filter for the 4.5 GU is over $100 the ryco equiv is $55 .. etc quote]
the first point you make is not always true, as a manufacturer like dayco can make belts for everyone, but at a different specification, so a nissan belt made by dayco, and a holden belt also made by dayco, and a repco belt can all be different quality, made by the same manufacturer, and different prices. i know that the genuine belts i sell are cheaper than repco.
the second point with the filters is that you should check the micron size of the element before considering anything to be an equivilent. i know that repco oilfilters are around 70 micron (rock catcher), ryco around 40, and the ac delco is 25. and all around the same price.
i work at a Ford Dealership and i sell both Genuine and aftermarket parts. All of the points made r fair but at the end of the day it all comes down to warranty. OE parts r made to last while aftermarket r made to a price. It doesn't matter if they come out of the same factory or not that does not mean they r the same quality.
Believe it or not, some OE parts r cheaper than aftermarket. ie an 80 series clutch kit, falcon front shockers, even an AFL1 is cheaper than a Ryco Z9.........
As for the nissan air filter, genuine might b 100 and ryco could b 55 and Love_mud is happy to pay 55 compared to genuine, but to me 55 is way too high for a copy part which u can buy for 20. So it really comes down to what u r happy to pay for a certain product...............
Mazda wanted $112. 
