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front pinion seal and diff ratio's
front pinion seal and diff ratio's
Went to do the front pinion seal on the suzi today and found theres a kinda locking tab (piece of the nut hammered in a small cutout in the pinion shaft) and for the life of me i cant seem to get it out so i can undo the bolt. anyone hav any tips?
also a while back i destroyed my rear diff so i swapped it for a spare i had, the flanges on diff were different offset and used smaller bolts so swapped the slip joint on the drive shafts. Now i am just wondering if its posible i now hav different rations in my diffs? they are both from 89 widetracks.
also a while back i destroyed my rear diff so i swapped it for a spare i had, the flanges on diff were different offset and used smaller bolts so swapped the slip joint on the drive shafts. Now i am just wondering if its posible i now hav different rations in my diffs? they are both from 89 widetracks.
Last edited by wasfishing on Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
thank you .....now once you have punched the tab up and out of the way you will have to lock the flange somehow (i.e with a bit of chain etc) and then using a good breaker bar try to crack the nut.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
Master of my own domain
haha its obviously been edited now... what was it? im very curious... was it 'da' or 'teh'. It really gives me the shits when people purposely use 'teh'.joeblow wrote:'THE'.....its friggin 'THE'...........
anyway back to the topic. What methods have you tried using to get the tab out? From memory i used either an old screw driver or a centre punch with 4lb hammer. Centre punch probably would be best.
The hardest job will probably be actually undoing the nut!
Mike
I just did my transfer case but I think the flanges are very similar. Knock the tab out with a centre punch, you just have to move it out a little. Drill a couple of holes in the end of a LONG star picket the same distance apart as the holes on your flange and bolt it to it so it stays still, then as others have said use a long breaker bar to undo the bolt. I had to slip a length of pipe over mine and they were still fairly hard to undo.
I use a centre punch when I do them. The tab normally bends in as 2 seperate parts. Use the centre punch on these individually. A couple of mild whacks with the hammer usually does the job.
Then you'll need to lock off the driveshaft with a chain and a couple of bolts as suggested, before going to town with the 4' breaker bar.
Most rattleguns won't have the torque to undo these nuts.
My snap on 3/4inch one couldn't - and torque wise it's one of the strongest on the market.
-Mark.
Then you'll need to lock off the driveshaft with a chain and a couple of bolts as suggested, before going to town with the 4' breaker bar.
Most rattleguns won't have the torque to undo these nuts.
My snap on 3/4inch one couldn't - and torque wise it's one of the strongest on the market.
-Mark.
dont over tighten it as it cah crush the crush sleeve and put the gears out of alignment. do it till it bites then a 1/4 turn. shouldnt effect diff noise unless you over tighten it
1999 SQ625 Manual Grand Vitara. Lifted, Twin Locked, 31' Extremes, dual Batteries, Winch.
Lots of custom gear as I cant afford the proper stuff.
Lots of custom gear as I cant afford the proper stuff.
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