I see here a lot, 2" is max for a body lift, 3" is a nono.
Why.
Under advise from OME I put on a 2" lift kit for 31" and then when I had it installed, it scrubbed, der, anyway, I rang up n spoke to the bloke, and sed, this scrubs, he sed yes of course it will.
Cutn a long story short, I told him he was a dikhed, as I argued that 2" was not enuf, but stupidly I listened to the "expert" and then he sed you will need a 3" body lift.
So I got one.
Looks a bit silly really, but I have never had a drama with it, not a squeek or squark.
Why is it advised not to use 3" body lift, I would far prefer to have done a 3" lift with a virtual body lift, but ya live n learn.
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3" body lift
3" body lift
If it breaks, excellent, time for an upgrade
im sure gwagen will get on here but . . .
spring lift does not give more room for bigger tyres, just moves there arc they work in.
bodylift and virtual is the only way and bigger bump stops.
if u did some searching 2" OME and 2" BL is plenty for 31s and is the more taken approach.
3" leaves a lot of leverage on the mounts and there is a lot more things to look out for when installing.
i had 31s and 2" ome on my NT and was fine on there with modded bump stops, scrubed only on front flares and that was fine.
spring lift does not give more room for bigger tyres, just moves there arc they work in.
bodylift and virtual is the only way and bigger bump stops.
if u did some searching 2" OME and 2" BL is plenty for 31s and is the more taken approach.
3" leaves a lot of leverage on the mounts and there is a lot more things to look out for when installing.
i had 31s and 2" ome on my NT and was fine on there with modded bump stops, scrubed only on front flares and that was fine.
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
Since joining the site, after I got both lifts in, I have discovered a lot but it is the 3" that had me.
Leverage I understand, but is it really that bad, I drive my girl very hard, airborne a lot, yet as I say, nothing is looking like its coming adrift. As I drive it by myself, I always give her good inspections, if I come unstuck, im pretty much stuffed as I am alone, and never tell anyone where im going as I just jump in an go exploring most of the time.
Maybe I will have to go even harder on inspections so as to make sure the lody lift mounts are secure. The easily visible ones are fine.
Leverage I understand, but is it really that bad, I drive my girl very hard, airborne a lot, yet as I say, nothing is looking like its coming adrift. As I drive it by myself, I always give her good inspections, if I come unstuck, im pretty much stuffed as I am alone, and never tell anyone where im going as I just jump in an go exploring most of the time.
Maybe I will have to go even harder on inspections so as to make sure the lody lift mounts are secure. The easily visible ones are fine.
If it breaks, excellent, time for an upgrade
Basically it's a case of low as possible is best for stability. 3 inch can be done and work fine on a sierra but is rarely necessary. It also poses more work to install properly afaik. High body lifts are more of an issue with heavier bodied 4bies, there was a rangie with 4" body lift in 4wd action mag and that is dangerous. Also 2" is the maximum allowable body lift by law in most states, check your local laws.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
ahhh crikey, law, ok.
So why did the OME bloke say 3", damit.
It was a hard job, didn't get low range lever correct, and if I have to use it I have to hold it in place, needed a bigger bend than I gave it.
I should have known better to listen to an "expert" after he stuffed me up the first time.
When I questioned him as to why he advised a 2" lift would be fine for 31s, all hew could say was, oh, thats the er, most common kit we sell.
As I am in a town with no police, and its not a daily driver, so to speak, tho I do take her out a lot, where I go there is nobody else, the law side is low on the list of following.
I do understand the gravity bit, as I am a mariner and as such we have to load our vessels as (gravity wise) low as possible, I have had her airborn and on two wheels so many times, but yet to kill her.
The gravity bit is why I would have preferred to do a 3" and guard cut, oh well, live and learn.
On another note, I do wish I had wider offset, but am at the limit of bought offset. I have heard of people geting the wheel center cut out and repositioned, is this a reality, or a foopa.
I do not want to go to spacers, but that seems the only alternative.
So why did the OME bloke say 3", damit.
It was a hard job, didn't get low range lever correct, and if I have to use it I have to hold it in place, needed a bigger bend than I gave it.
I should have known better to listen to an "expert" after he stuffed me up the first time.
When I questioned him as to why he advised a 2" lift would be fine for 31s, all hew could say was, oh, thats the er, most common kit we sell.
As I am in a town with no police, and its not a daily driver, so to speak, tho I do take her out a lot, where I go there is nobody else, the law side is low on the list of following.
I do understand the gravity bit, as I am a mariner and as such we have to load our vessels as (gravity wise) low as possible, I have had her airborn and on two wheels so many times, but yet to kill her.
The gravity bit is why I would have preferred to do a 3" and guard cut, oh well, live and learn.
On another note, I do wish I had wider offset, but am at the limit of bought offset. I have heard of people geting the wheel center cut out and repositioned, is this a reality, or a foopa.
I do not want to go to spacers, but that seems the only alternative.
If it breaks, excellent, time for an upgrade
I was highly advised not to get coil spacers and that getting a 2 inch tough dog suspension lift was deffinatly out of the question. Naturally arb tried to sell me their OME 1.5 inch suspension lift. Since i did this to my car, i have NEVER had any problems with stearing, flexing, bouncing, bumping etc etc.
what rims are you running?
---------===== LOWRANGE JUNKIE =====---------
atari4x4 build up ~ MT/R 31's, calmini, body lift, j20a, 5.12 r&p + other stuff ~
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=162392" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
atari4x4 build up ~ MT/R 31's, calmini, body lift, j20a, 5.12 r&p + other stuff ~
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What sort of 4 wheeling do you do, sounds like alot of high speed stuff to me.
I would not bother with the Zuk diffs to long especially if your jumping it alot, they are remarkably easy to bend the housings on.
To get your extra width I would look at a diff swap (MQ diffs would work well here, may be a bit on the heavy side)
Ditch the giant body lift or at least reduce it in size to what you need to clear the rubber, anything more is a waste. I would be on a sheet metal diet as well.
To help offset the heavier diffs some light alloys and keep with radial tyres.
Move the front diff forward by redrilling your spring pads and Ubolt plates. This will help with firewall clearance of your tyres, and if yoru going quick every extra mm of wheelbase you can get is going to help with stability at speed and landing.
I would not bother with the Zuk diffs to long especially if your jumping it alot, they are remarkably easy to bend the housings on.
To get your extra width I would look at a diff swap (MQ diffs would work well here, may be a bit on the heavy side)
Ditch the giant body lift or at least reduce it in size to what you need to clear the rubber, anything more is a waste. I would be on a sheet metal diet as well.
To help offset the heavier diffs some light alloys and keep with radial tyres.
Move the front diff forward by redrilling your spring pads and Ubolt plates. This will help with firewall clearance of your tyres, and if yoru going quick every extra mm of wheelbase you can get is going to help with stability at speed and landing.
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