Just wonderig if i was to cut the rear spring hangers for the front springs in my zook and weld them back on 25mm forward. Would this create the same thing as a half ruff as its a nt i cant just redrill the hangers and it will look more stock and create the better shackel angle and wheel base extension am i right ?
and also i can still use front springs
could i aalso do this in the rear?
thanks in advance for any info
cheers jesse
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moving spring hangers for better shackle angle
Better ride, a bit of extra flex from the shackle angle and better hill climbing and decending due to wheel base.
If you are going to all that hassle is it possible to move them back an inch and fit rears ?
If you are going to all that hassle is it possible to move them back an inch and fit rears ?
'92 Rodeo - VR V6, T700, 31's
'89 Zook - 4 inch lift, 32's, 5.14 gears, RUF, F&R Lockrights, Rear Disconnect, Falcon/Landcruiser PS
'89 Zook - 4 inch lift, 32's, 5.14 gears, RUF, F&R Lockrights, Rear Disconnect, Falcon/Landcruiser PS
For all the work, you won't get enough gain.
You could get the same effect by redrilling the spring pads to bring the axle forward 1" and cutting the front shackle hanger off and moving it back 1" That's easier because the shackle hanger is welded to the bottom of the chassis only, where as the spring hanger is welded to the bottom and inner side of the chassis.
Personally, I don't think you're going to see enough benefit to make this worthwhile. You're also going to create a monster because when you get sick of the crap ride and short travel of fronts you'll have to undo the work to put rears in it.
Rears do provide more lift - they have more arch in them, but they also have a lower rate os the spring sits deeper into it's travel at ride height. That's where most of the better ride comes from.
Steve.
You could get the same effect by redrilling the spring pads to bring the axle forward 1" and cutting the front shackle hanger off and moving it back 1" That's easier because the shackle hanger is welded to the bottom of the chassis only, where as the spring hanger is welded to the bottom and inner side of the chassis.
Personally, I don't think you're going to see enough benefit to make this worthwhile. You're also going to create a monster because when you get sick of the crap ride and short travel of fronts you'll have to undo the work to put rears in it.
Rears do provide more lift - they have more arch in them, but they also have a lower rate os the spring sits deeper into it's travel at ride height. That's where most of the better ride comes from.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
On average the rears give you about 1 to 1.5 inches of lift depending on the shackle you use.zookster666 wrote:yeah but i thought rather than buy new springs and pull them apart to make them softer just use fronts do rear spring give extra lift as im running 2'' lift will i need 2'' lifted rears for the front?
'92 Rodeo - VR V6, T700, 31's
'89 Zook - 4 inch lift, 32's, 5.14 gears, RUF, F&R Lockrights, Rear Disconnect, Falcon/Landcruiser PS
'89 Zook - 4 inch lift, 32's, 5.14 gears, RUF, F&R Lockrights, Rear Disconnect, Falcon/Landcruiser PS
Zookster, i did this mod when i went RUF.
I did it this way as i didnt want to do a chassis extention simply because of the front bar set up/powersteering etc.
Its a pain to cut the rear mount of, as Steve said, its welded to the bottom and inside chassis rail and can be quite dangerous as you need to cut near fuel lines. There is also a chance that you will weld it on unparrallel to the other side, which will have dramatic effects on handling.
It would be better to make up a plate to go either side of your standard mounts, and weld/ bolt that on, then redrill back however much.
Finally, no point doing this with standard front springs, get rears.
I did it this way as i didnt want to do a chassis extention simply because of the front bar set up/powersteering etc.
Its a pain to cut the rear mount of, as Steve said, its welded to the bottom and inside chassis rail and can be quite dangerous as you need to cut near fuel lines. There is also a chance that you will weld it on unparrallel to the other side, which will have dramatic effects on handling.
It would be better to make up a plate to go either side of your standard mounts, and weld/ bolt that on, then redrill back however much.
Finally, no point doing this with standard front springs, get rears.
85 LWB w. FRP Canopy
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
done this on mine also.
didnt get the whole RUF gain but a big difference to std front springs.
I also used a spring relocation aka RRO kit and i am looking at longer springs one day too
didnt get the whole RUF gain but a big difference to std front springs.
I also used a spring relocation aka RRO kit and i am looking at longer springs one day too
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
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