Couldn't post sunday nite, was utterly buggered.
>>Will Edit this later once I get the photos online<<
Pulled the last of the timing stuff, the oil and fuel pumps and oil cooler.
I rolled her over, and popped all the conrods and pistons.
Number 5 piston is 'rubbed' at four points, 90 deg to each other. Would not reinstall it.
The crank in situ:
Crank out:
The bearing surfaces on the crank are fine by my eye. The bearing shims are a little worn, nothing awful, but not great either.
Haven't measured anything in great detail. Not really going to. Scoping up the machine shop for a date + time.
She's going to get a hot tank and a measure better than I can do.
Then we'll see where we go.
All packed to go:
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My 1HD-T Rebuild
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
I think you will find she just needs rings and bearings and a head service by the look of the picies... dont bother with Toyota gaskets or head bolts, buy quality aftermarket....Toyota buy from thesame suppliers, just dont go for cheap over quality.
Andrew
Andrew
Confucious say...man who argue with idiot, worserer himself
Yeah,
I got it all crack tested and whatnot, measured and hot-tubbed.
Needs:
-Rebore to 0.5mm over
-Line bore on crank
-Facing
-Valves got bent because of overspeed
-Crank needs a minor linishing
-Cam needs a grind round a sealpoint
-Injectors need overhaul
-Glow plugs are gone
-Turbo has been rebuilt
Apart from that, shes ok. Its not that bad considering what happened. The big cost is more that I don't think I have the time to reassemble it.
I got it all crack tested and whatnot, measured and hot-tubbed.
Needs:
-Rebore to 0.5mm over
-Line bore on crank
-Facing
-Valves got bent because of overspeed
-Crank needs a minor linishing
-Cam needs a grind round a sealpoint
-Injectors need overhaul
-Glow plugs are gone
-Turbo has been rebuilt
Apart from that, shes ok. Its not that bad considering what happened. The big cost is more that I don't think I have the time to reassemble it.
Ive heard of line bores of blocks...is that what u ment?? i wouldnt think your block would be out....u should seriously consider getting a close and hones on all the rods...because they go oval over time...hense alot of trouble with the big ends on these motors. New bolts for them too.
This is what i was recommended with my rebuild, even though it was still fine down the bottom (1mm oversize needed to clean up block)
Andrew
This is what i was recommended with my rebuild, even though it was still fine down the bottom (1mm oversize needed to clean up block)
Andrew
Confucious say...man who argue with idiot, worserer himself
Some results after a long time.
Quite a bit has happened since my last post so many moons ago. My father has become ill, and with that and uni I don't have the time to put it all back together with any sort of confidence.
I now have a completely repaired and assembled 1HD-T returning to me in a few weeks. What took so long was a mixture of my machinist having more work than he could deal with, and me needing to run back to MTQ on two occasions to get the injectors and fuel pump done - not that their work was bad, its just I kept forgetting.
I must shamelessly plug Orger Engines in Bayswater for their incredible attention to detail and service. May have cost a little more, but it was certainly worth the piece of mind over some horror stories I heard. They tested everything thoroughly (including crack tests and pressure tests) and you can eat off the floor in their workshop. I will venture to say that the engine is now in the best state it has ever been in.
Also I'll hazard saying that if you rebuild a 1HD-T its not fixing the engine that really kills you on a $/kg or $/volume ratio, but the injectors, the fuel pump, the turbo.
After these three things I am half way to my machining and reassembly cost.
One thing to be careful of is going to alot of expense and trouble with an engine bore and rebuild, only to have the fuel system let you down. I was certain my pump was spot on, only three years on from a full rebuild, and after having it calibrated, I learnt that it was not very good at all, and probably accounts for the gutlessness before that horrible day (too low at idle and pre-turbo, and too low above 2k rpm).
So I am happy, although much poorer.
I now have a completely repaired and assembled 1HD-T returning to me in a few weeks. What took so long was a mixture of my machinist having more work than he could deal with, and me needing to run back to MTQ on two occasions to get the injectors and fuel pump done - not that their work was bad, its just I kept forgetting.
I must shamelessly plug Orger Engines in Bayswater for their incredible attention to detail and service. May have cost a little more, but it was certainly worth the piece of mind over some horror stories I heard. They tested everything thoroughly (including crack tests and pressure tests) and you can eat off the floor in their workshop. I will venture to say that the engine is now in the best state it has ever been in.
Also I'll hazard saying that if you rebuild a 1HD-T its not fixing the engine that really kills you on a $/kg or $/volume ratio, but the injectors, the fuel pump, the turbo.
After these three things I am half way to my machining and reassembly cost.
One thing to be careful of is going to alot of expense and trouble with an engine bore and rebuild, only to have the fuel system let you down. I was certain my pump was spot on, only three years on from a full rebuild, and after having it calibrated, I learnt that it was not very good at all, and probably accounts for the gutlessness before that horrible day (too low at idle and pre-turbo, and too low above 2k rpm).
So I am happy, although much poorer.
To be honest, I know the total cost, but there is a reassembly cost in that that blows it past what was actually done in terms of rebuilding.
I think a good guesstimate from the grand total is about $5.5k for the essential work and parts, and I think that's about right considering I also had crack, pressure, washes, a full measure, and everything else including oil pump rotor and oil cooler, all pump bearings, seals, freeze plugs, hoses and about everything else that could be done, done.
In case you've just joined us, the pistons were no good (needed new at $200/ea), the bores had been rubbed out of spec (rebore to 0.5mm over), the crank needed a light linishing, I bent most of the valves in the head, the cam needed a tiny grind on a sealing point, and there was typical grinds on head and block interface.
I remember I was quoted $7k or $7.5k for a factory rebuilt 'block' from Toyota. I believe that was just block, pistons, head and crank. The scary bit about that is that you still need to go and get your turbo, fuel system and everything else done (as I did), as well as making sure all the bits from your old engine are still in appreciable nick after 15 years or so of good use.
Now I have heard ugly stories about 'factory rebuilt' parts (read: engines) in the past, not sure about how accurate they are, but put it this way: I know what happened to the engine (I was at the wheel), I tore it down (I know what was damaged), I know what was done to fix it, and most importantly, I trust the guys who did it. I don't fancy a 12 month guarantee (or whatever it is) on $7k, without knowing its intimate past.
Mind, I am still at about half what my former mechanic wanted to do the job, and I probably have it better.
I do want the old girl running for another 20 years or so, and I think the $1-3k extra should guarantee that. Shit, I'll bet she's better than new now.
My 2c.
I think a good guesstimate from the grand total is about $5.5k for the essential work and parts, and I think that's about right considering I also had crack, pressure, washes, a full measure, and everything else including oil pump rotor and oil cooler, all pump bearings, seals, freeze plugs, hoses and about everything else that could be done, done.
In case you've just joined us, the pistons were no good (needed new at $200/ea), the bores had been rubbed out of spec (rebore to 0.5mm over), the crank needed a light linishing, I bent most of the valves in the head, the cam needed a tiny grind on a sealing point, and there was typical grinds on head and block interface.
I remember I was quoted $7k or $7.5k for a factory rebuilt 'block' from Toyota. I believe that was just block, pistons, head and crank. The scary bit about that is that you still need to go and get your turbo, fuel system and everything else done (as I did), as well as making sure all the bits from your old engine are still in appreciable nick after 15 years or so of good use.
Now I have heard ugly stories about 'factory rebuilt' parts (read: engines) in the past, not sure about how accurate they are, but put it this way: I know what happened to the engine (I was at the wheel), I tore it down (I know what was damaged), I know what was done to fix it, and most importantly, I trust the guys who did it. I don't fancy a 12 month guarantee (or whatever it is) on $7k, without knowing its intimate past.
Mind, I am still at about half what my former mechanic wanted to do the job, and I probably have it better.
I do want the old girl running for another 20 years or so, and I think the $1-3k extra should guarantee that. Shit, I'll bet she's better than new now.
My 2c.
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