Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
35s or 33s?
35s or 33s?
Howdy,
Help me out. I once had a pretty firm plan for the following amendments to the Maverick:
- 3" susp lift
- 2" body lift
- 35" MTRs
- 4.3:1 diffs
Now that I have had it a few months I am starting to think slightly differently, maybe:
- 3" suspension lift
- 33" MTRs
Currently running 32" silverstone muddies and not minding them. I figure with 33s I don't really need the diff ratio changed.
The deal is that I can afford to put 35s on, with the extra lift and diff ratio changes that are required - but on the other hand a grand or more extra, plus more work, is as much of a pain in the ass for me as the next guy.
So while I think it would improve the car, I don't know that it would improve the car enough to justify the hassle.
Also, 33s are more or less legal. 35s ain't, and body lift's a real PITA to get legal.
Whatcha reckon?
Jason
Help me out. I once had a pretty firm plan for the following amendments to the Maverick:
- 3" susp lift
- 2" body lift
- 35" MTRs
- 4.3:1 diffs
Now that I have had it a few months I am starting to think slightly differently, maybe:
- 3" suspension lift
- 33" MTRs
Currently running 32" silverstone muddies and not minding them. I figure with 33s I don't really need the diff ratio changed.
The deal is that I can afford to put 35s on, with the extra lift and diff ratio changes that are required - but on the other hand a grand or more extra, plus more work, is as much of a pain in the ass for me as the next guy.
So while I think it would improve the car, I don't know that it would improve the car enough to justify the hassle.
Also, 33s are more or less legal. 35s ain't, and body lift's a real PITA to get legal.
Whatcha reckon?
Jason
Last edited by chimpboy on Sat Jan 31, 2004 7:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
This is not legal advice.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
I didnt vote for one simple reason...... is that "all" the mods your planning ???, Its a hard call if we dont really understand where you want the rig to be say in a years time from now...
Having said that ... I've had the 35 BFG MTR's on for over a year now and am very happy with the size, BUT ..... I have also had to increase the power plant to drive them at speed and reduce the gearing so I could still crawl, sofar I'm happy with the end result I've achived with the best from both worlds being accomplished.
Best idea of all though is,........
34's Now there's a compromise that works !!!
3" suspension lift and leave the gearing alone !!!
Having said that ... I've had the 35 BFG MTR's on for over a year now and am very happy with the size, BUT ..... I have also had to increase the power plant to drive them at speed and reduce the gearing so I could still crawl, sofar I'm happy with the end result I've achived with the best from both worlds being accomplished.
Best idea of all though is,........
34's Now there's a compromise that works !!!
3" suspension lift and leave the gearing alone !!!
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Depends on what you want to do with the car really...
How much $ you want to throw at it, or can throw at it...
35s pretty much need diffs doing, thats $500ea + labour, which ranges from $500 to $1500 (been calling round last few weeks!) drop the car off and pick up next day...
suspension, or hack the body, etc...
Figure out what you want from your truck first, then go with the plan to get there.
How much $ you want to throw at it, or can throw at it...
35s pretty much need diffs doing, thats $500ea + labour, which ranges from $500 to $1500 (been calling round last few weeks!) drop the car off and pick up next day...
suspension, or hack the body, etc...
Figure out what you want from your truck first, then go with the plan to get there.
Go the 315/75 R16, the legal 35 (at least in NSW, I dunno about QLD)
35s are a definite advantage offroad and with the right setup are fine onroad.
This is what I am working towards but I will need the ratios done for highway work.
I fit 36s with a Dobinson 4" lift (more like 5 1/2") and 40mm body without needing bodywork. It's tight but it works.
35s are a definite advantage offroad and with the right setup are fine onroad.
This is what I am working towards but I will need the ratios done for highway work.
I fit 36s with a Dobinson 4" lift (more like 5 1/2") and 40mm body without needing bodywork. It's tight but it works.
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
Gonna sound like an echo here, but yep, depends on the destiny of the rig and your intended driving.
33's wont get a second glance here in brissy, and will pass any inspection by dot. 35's will snag you in the net with dot, you can run the risk, but heaps of people thought the same thing - and never won.
If you are keen, a second set of tyres will alleviate the whole issue. Only takes around 40 mins the hard way with a trolley jack and wheel brace - quicker with a rattle gun etc.
33's wont get a second glance here in brissy, and will pass any inspection by dot. 35's will snag you in the net with dot, you can run the risk, but heaps of people thought the same thing - and never won.
If you are keen, a second set of tyres will alleviate the whole issue. Only takes around 40 mins the hard way with a trolley jack and wheel brace - quicker with a rattle gun etc.
Built, not bought.
Area54 wrote:If you are keen, a second set of tyres will alleviate the whole issue. Only takes around 40 mins the hard way with a trolley jack and wheel brace - quicker with a rattle gun etc.
40 minutes?? Shit used to take me around 15-20! Jack up center of diff, do 2 at once...
But very good advice.. with things gettin harder and harder to just have fun...
Would be interesting to know what the fine is in Vic for it..
I drove around in Vic for a bit over a year (about 40,000km) with some Dobinson 4" lift springs and 2" body lift in my GU ute sitting over 35"s and then put in some 6" lift springs and drove around for another year and never once got hassled by the cops when I lived down in Victoria.
Now living in the Snowy Mountains in NSW, I get asked to present my engineers at least 3-4 times per ski seasons and am thinking about getting a copy laminated to keep it in good shape . . . . . The engineers was done with the 4" lift and 33" tyres (was worried it wouldn't pass the braking test with the 35's) but as soon as I pull the engineers report out of the glove box the cops are usually pretty good.
I tend to be a bit more honest with myself and do things right the first time. If I originally wanted 35's then it is unlikely that I'll be able to convince myself to accept a more conservative approach. There is every chance that as soon as the 33's had started to wear I'd be spending more money to do what I should have done the first time around . . . . but that might explain why most of my life's savings are tied up in my ute!
For what it is worth, takes me about 15 mins with a trolley jack and a rattle gun to swap to 38" Boggers when the going's gunna get dirty.
Now living in the Snowy Mountains in NSW, I get asked to present my engineers at least 3-4 times per ski seasons and am thinking about getting a copy laminated to keep it in good shape . . . . . The engineers was done with the 4" lift and 33" tyres (was worried it wouldn't pass the braking test with the 35's) but as soon as I pull the engineers report out of the glove box the cops are usually pretty good.
I tend to be a bit more honest with myself and do things right the first time. If I originally wanted 35's then it is unlikely that I'll be able to convince myself to accept a more conservative approach. There is every chance that as soon as the 33's had started to wear I'd be spending more money to do what I should have done the first time around . . . . but that might explain why most of my life's savings are tied up in my ute!
For what it is worth, takes me about 15 mins with a trolley jack and a rattle gun to swap to 38" Boggers when the going's gunna get dirty.
I'm not very good looking, so I guess I better be useful . . .
I have only just got 35's for my shorty GQ, but had 33's for the pervious 4yrs. They worked well it went most place's i wanted to go and where they wouldn't it was only a short winch to get it there. I still havnt changed any of the factory gearing, and the engine is still a TD42 n/a. With the 33's it was rare that I needed the gearing changed or more hp, (except on the highway, always need more there).
With the 35's thats a diff story I think it does need both to be changed. My plan this week is maybe 4.3 diff gears (so I can run 33's as a street/off-road), and a power upgrade of some sort.
With the 35's thats a diff story I think it does need both to be changed. My plan this week is maybe 4.3 diff gears (so I can run 33's as a street/off-road), and a power upgrade of some sort.
bogged wrote:turps wrote: and a power upgrade of some sort.
wanna buy a Denco System??
Nah was thinking along the lines of VH45. And you will have sold it buy the time I get around to doing anything, wether it be a TD42 turbo'd or go the little V8.
So take you turbo and
But then again how much are you looking at getting rid of it for.
bogged wrote:turps wrote:But then again how much are you looking at getting rid of it for.
I'll let ya know on Monday, checking price on my replacement thing first.. They will go well with my new 4.6's
Now your just bragging. Which way did you end up going with the 4.6's. Did you use either of the factory ones or just aftermarket.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
V8Patrol wrote:Jason,
Add 34's as an option to your poll,
I think the result may be interesting for all of us
Kingy
Done! Gentlemen, change your votes if you prefer 34s.
Thanks for all the thoughts too. In answer to the very legitimate question of what I want to use the rig for... well... (a) it's my daily driver (b) I bought it because I wanted something suitable for a Cape York trip next dry season and (c) I like to go out mudbashing on weekends, but only medium hardcore if that.
I am getting so I don't feel I need the stress of driving something I know isn't legal, and that includes 35" tyres here in the Sunshine State.
Jason
This is not legal advice.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
bogged wrote:V8Patrol wrote:Jason,
Add 34's as an option to your poll,
I think the result may be interesting for all of us
Kingy
problem with that is, most have voted on the 2 options already adn you cant change ya vote...
new poll then ???????
or cast a new vote in a post !
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
V8Patrol wrote:bogged wrote:problem with that is, most have voted on the 2 options already adn you cant change ya vote...
new poll then ???????
or cast a new vote in a post !
Yeah, I thought you could change votes but I was obviously mistaken - thinking of yahoo groups I think.
By all means start a new poll! Go on!
Jason
This is not legal advice.
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
bias 34's not really a valid choice as a streeter tyre. They flat spot, wear quickly and are noisy like a Cessna, the only thing I object to with my JT2s is the wear rate. You can put up with them, but a radial will be a better choice in the long run, for the same reasons to choose a 33
Built, not bought.
QLD laws may be draconian but they're still laws I'd go with 33's now and if later they're not enough buy some proper play tyres. By then the muddies would have started to lose their edge anyway, still good road/ beach tyres though
I will be doing essentially the same thing soon, only suzuki size = smaller
I will be doing essentially the same thing soon, only suzuki size = smaller
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 21 guests