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Range Rover DRIVE issues

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

Moderator: Micka

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Range Rover DRIVE issues

Post by GRIMACE »

OK...... just when i though i was gonna have this shit sorted out I have an issue........

Ok driving alone everything is fine, stop at the lights (In D gear :lol: ) put foot down to accelerate, small clunk and jerk then revs and no forward motion, try again no go third time no go. Try 1st put foot down no go, then try first again put foot down very little bit and yay it moves and then starts goin and all seems to be ok. (except when goin from 1-2 it revs alot inbetween).
Next stop first put foot down no go opps abit too much, try agaoin less foot and yay its goin.

Iw wont go in drive at all, I am over this peice of crap and my money are all maxed out so this farker Rangie is on its last straw :x :D

My thought are my torque converter is farked ? ? ? or is my viscous transfer farked ? ? ?

ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME :) (all the smiley face are just happy gestures deep down I AM ONE PISSED OFF MOTHER FARKER)
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Post by Aquarangie »

Sounds like your viscous coupling may be buggard. Sometimes, from what I heard, that the viscous unit can play up and deliver no drive at all or the chain may be also worn out.

If this is the case, LT230 job is the solution. Much cheaper and mopre reliable than the Viscous unit.

Good luck,

Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
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Post by landy_man »

could also be your g/box that is farked.....
When was the last time you changed the oil in the g/box and transfer....did the oil look good...How much oil is in the g/box now...might be a job for your local landie shop ;)
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Post by mickrangie »

as LandyMan said and check yr kick down cable....

or burn it!!
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Post by TuffRR »

Burn. Burn Burn!!!!! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
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Post by GRIMACE »

Well looks like burn it is the option :twisted:


Kick down still works fine ? ? ?
Just gave it another go and it seems to be goin from 1st and reverse no worries, but try take off from 2nd 3rd or Drive (selection on stick) and NO GO just revs ? ? ?

:?: :?: :?:
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Post by Strange Rover »

Wont be the viscous unit cause if that is stuffed then it just doesent lock the centre diff - it wont stop it from driving.

Sounds like the auto is playing up. If it were me i would check the obvious things (like has it got enough auto fluid in it) and if you carnt find anything then take it to an auto shop.

Sam
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Post by GRIMACE »

Hmmm would the fluid stop it from goin like that ? ? ?

I pretty much have to use it like a manual.... It goes from 1st no worries and then when moving I can change into any gear and its fine but stop or rool real slow in any other gear but first and go to give it some and it just revs ? ? ? Drop it back into first (after revs have droped) and away she goes ? ? ?
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Post by landy_man »

Anthony, I am sure that what ever has failed on the car, will not be something you can fix at home.
I strongly suggest you take it to a tranny specialist and get them to diagnose the problem and quote for repair before you totally destroy all your packs.
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Post by GRIMACE »

I havent attempted (nor am i gonna) to do anything to it as I have no idea what the problem is.
I am gonna take it to ricks on monday and hopefully he fixes her up all good and better............I am just worried as to how much its gonna be :?
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Post by landy_man »

worst case - full rebuild approx $3-4000
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Post by Evan »

Yeah i heard the ZF's were really really expensive to rebuild.

I was quoted approx $1200 or so for an R380 rebuild including new main shaft, and all the usual bearings, syncos etc. Or maybe that was just the parts... i cant remember now, but i thought i would leave it till it actually got noisy and not just a bit grunchy when shifting.

E
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Post by RANUKI »

It may sound stupid (well' it does) but you have checked your fluid levels in the trans, HAVEN"T YOU........

bEN
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Post by mickrangie »

RANUKI wrote:It may sound stupid (well' it does) but you have checked your fluid levels in the trans, HAVEN"T YOU........

bEN

Indercator fluid you mean?
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Post by RANUKI »

Yeah....... I like to call it head lamp fluid...

Tricky stuff indead, funnily enough no drive with out it..

Think the yota boy's have a word for it "BUGGER". hehehe

bEN
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Post by GRIMACE »

check the fluids and its full......... :? I still have drive just for some reason its gotta be started from first and then work your way up :?:

3-4000 Grand :shock: Fark it I WILL BURN IT :D

Either that or Sell it as is or strip the bitch and get a new hobby :D


:bad-words: bloody car :bad-words:
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Post by landy_man »

AnthonyP wrote: I still have drive just for some reason its gotta be started from first and then work your way up :?:


so basically what you are saying is that your automatic is no longer automatic :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

it sounds like you might have an oil pressure problem....
auto's are not the sort of thing you want to be working on...this is not going to be a quick fix... i.e. cable loose, screw loose, bolt loose.

As I said earlier, you are going to have to pay someone to at least tell you what is wrong with 100% certantity.... perhaps then consider what you want to do.
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Post by Aquarangie »

Yes, ther ZF's are not overly cheap, but I had mine done for $2750, fully rebilt and used aftermarket bits where he could to keep the cost down a bit. The bloke who did it for me assumed that I took it off-road and went ahead with the more beefed up items (the dents were a dead giveaway at the time!!).

Some auto transmission specalist will charge over 3 grand for it, but your'e being ripped off if you are.

Good policy is to piss that viscous coupling transfer off while your at it. You''ll be better off in the long run!!

Good luck,

Trav
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Post by GRIMACE »

So you guys recond its about time for me to start searching for a ZF Auto and an LT230 combo :?:
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Post by GRIMACE »

what about a different auto option (turbo400/700) ? ? ?

If i am gonna be spending this sort of cash i figure i may aswell make it worth it :lol:
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Post by RANUKI »

I pesonally run the LT230 (EDIT-- COMBO) option because I want a MANUAL.. But it all comes down to what you want..

The ZF is a stronger box, but it is also more $$$$. That being said maybe a change to a turbo box would be cheaper in the long run. Call Marks adaptors for info as he does a kit for it..

Cheers
bEN
Last edited by RANUKI on Sun Feb 01, 2004 6:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by landy_man »

the LT230 is the transfer
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Post by flat4 »

Maybe he likes the idea of a two speed manual with no reverse?

Steve
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Post by RANUKI »

The LT230 combo (with the r380) if we need to be so precise..
Check your dealer/factory manual out of late model rangie it only has one serial number on it, not one on the box and one on the transfer. Feel free to look at mine if you like...

bEN
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Post by landy_man »

the ZF and TF auto gearboxes both had the LT230 as the transfer
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Post by RANUKI »

That's correct landy-man, so did the LT77 and the LT85 santana 5 speed, however they all have their own serial numbers.

The later LT230(T) combo shares the same serial number. But yes it does have an R380 box in front of it. So it goes ok for a two speed box with no reverse.. :D

bEN

P.S. I am farkn sick of this AOL crap..
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Post by GRIMACE »

Hmmm I am lost :roll: :lol:

A turbo 400 will need an adaptor to attach to the Transfer and also to the engine...... thats will cost over $1000 in adaptors so thats a no go idea..... I f i can get a ZF AUto alone or combined with a LT230 I will be considering the change over.

Also the LT230 in replacement of my current borg warner viscuos unit will lower my gearing aswell (Yes or No) :? :D
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Post by HSV Rangie »

just get a s/hand zf from later model disco.
priced from $800.00 up
Regards
Michael.
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Post by GRIMACE »

Yeah that might be my option.

Whats the latest model disco to use the ZF and LT230 transfer just incase i get a combo ;)
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Post by landy_man »

all dicos use the zf and lt... beware though as the series 2 disco on uses electronic signals...
so only go as late as s1 disco
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