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living with 24v
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living with 24v
Looking at 24v cruiser...how hard they are to mod?Get parts for etc?Run spotlights?Speakers?Fridge?Thanks
Dont know how hard they are to mod or how much spares are, but living with 24v would be a little harder than 12v. You can get 24v globes for youre spotlights, speakers dont run off 12 or 24 but the headunit that drives them mainly run off 12v, fridges are also mostly 12v. Best thing to do if you want to stick with 24v is to buy a big converter.
For spotties you can just use a pair of 12V lamps in series. This is very commonly done. The only downside is that if one blows, they both go dark. But that is not really hard to deal with.
As noted winches and fridges are readily available in 24V, and second hand stuff will often actually cost less.
This is one of those things where you can make lemonade out of a lemon, as it were.
If you have some really heavy draw 12V items you can always mount a second alternator and have an independent 12V system.
As noted winches and fridges are readily available in 24V, and second hand stuff will often actually cost less.
This is one of those things where you can make lemonade out of a lemon, as it were.
If you have some really heavy draw 12V items you can always mount a second alternator and have an independent 12V system.
This is not legal advice.
you can get one of these for the trailer, as i have done with my safari.
http://www.redarc.com.au/trailer_lighting_reducers.htm
and it's not wise to run 2 12v spotties in series if they are metal framed/mounts.
http://www.redarc.com.au/trailer_lighting_reducers.htm
and it's not wise to run 2 12v spotties in series if they are metal framed/mounts.
swb safari
yeah, a non-sober afternoon of laziness to hook up reversing lights, 'why does the fuse keep blowing?' a moment of thought... "oh thats why"Shadow wrote:sounds like someone learnt from experience?ausoops wrote:
and it's not wise to run 2 12v spotties in series if they are metal framed/mounts.
swb safari
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