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Micka wrote:JOHNZ on here also had a GU centre grafted into a Toyo housing.
This is the best option IMHO as you can still run strong axels and CVs from places like Longfields.
I'm just leading into this now and waiting on delivery of some parts to run a GQHP into a LC60 axle which has the big housing already. I've just heard back from ARB and it looks like you dont need to machine Toyota sides into a Patrol locker anymore to make Toyota axles fit. It seems now you can fit a regular RD136 airlocker and the new unified sizing means that you can just drop in the Toyota sides (ARB # 728H111) and it will work. Very nice! If it works well then I'll HP the rear also.
The other bonus..... is that I now don't have to talk to JacMac Diffs.
yep, ARB - toyota lux 8" side gears are interchangeable with nissan h233 side gears. funny that!
So I could fit an 8" lux centre to my gu axlss for extra strength and shave more off the diff for added clearance?
probably wouldn't be worth the effort. As you are aware the GU's are pretty good stright off! Its just that a built 80 has a lot more bits available thanks to the US.
If you really need a big HiPinion then fitting 60s/lux balls to a GQ ctr would be a cool swap, then put custom length 30spline longs in it.
9" center fit into 60ser housing with an adapter ring and the side gears can be swapped to suit 30spline Toyota. Or you cen get 35spline Dana side gears to suit toyota ARB's if you want to graft D60 knuckles.
Are you saying that a 80 series front diff can be built stronger than a GQ/GU front diff even though the CW is 1" smaller.... just talking about the centres here.
Also, do you know much about the LC60 to 9" adaptor rings?
Slunnie wrote:Are you saying that a 80 series front diff can be built stronger than a GQ/GU front diff even though the CW is 1" smaller.... just talking about the centres here.
Also, do you know much about the LC60 to 9" adaptor rings?
not really, but if a 'built' diff as a unit is only good for ~4500ft/lb due to certain parts then it doesn't really compare to a 'built' 80 which can take ~7000ft/lb plus.
don't forget there still isn't a nissan cv's with the strength (and reputation) to compare to a longfield.
giantracing wrote:i have done 3 now... just remember ratios are close but not the same...
cruiser- 4.11
patrol - 4.1
in a 80 if it has a constant transfer it does wind it up if driving to long on hard surface......
Difference in ratios is 1.00271 or roughly 0.27%. Not enough to worry about.
As an example take a 40" tyre and multiply it by the 0.27% and you get an effective height difference of 0.10". It would be safe to say that that would be within the realms of weight distribution variations as far as menaingful effective differences are concerned.
80 series with the center diff (constant 4WD) would not suffer any wind up due to the actions of the center diff equalising the speeds. Even locked the effects would be negligible (example above).
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
How big of a job is involved in fitting 60s/lux balls to a GQ housing? Would be nice to cut back the GQ housing to take 60 series Longfield 30 splines instead of getting custom ones made.
AMADAXTREME Racing
Sponsors-
AmadaXtreme
Superior Engineering
www.superiorengineering.com.au/
giantracing wrote:i have done 3 now... just remember ratios are close but not the same...
cruiser- 4.11
patrol - 4.1
in a 80 if it has a constant transfer it does wind it up if driving to long on hard surface......
Difference in ratios is 1.00271 or roughly 0.27%. Not enough to worry about.
As an example take a 40" tyre and multiply it by the 0.27% and you get an effective height difference of 0.10". It would be safe to say that that would be within the realms of weight distribution variations as far as menaingful effective differences are concerned.
80 series with the center diff (constant 4WD) would not suffer any wind up due to the actions of the center diff equalising the speeds. Even locked the effects would be negligible (example above).
what ever.........
so what will he do if his cruiser is 3.7,4.5,5.2 ratio what will he do then....
(i think i have missed one)..... and one of the ones i did was constant and from here to noosa was making big noises..... after we did conversion on transfer all good...... explain that then...
giantracing wrote:i have done 3 now... just remember ratios are close but not the same...
cruiser- 4.11
patrol - 4.1
in a 80 if it has a constant transfer it does wind it up if driving to long on hard surface......
An 80 series runs a 4.10 ratio diff unlike the early cruisers and 75 series which run a 4.11. For what reason i dont know. But i know this is a fact as i just checked it on the 2 stock 80 series cruisers i have here and also on the rear centre i have in the shed.
giantracing wrote:i have done 3 now... just remember ratios are close but not the same...
cruiser- 4.11
patrol - 4.1
in a 80 if it has a constant transfer it does wind it up if driving to long on hard surface......
An 80 series runs a 4.10 ratio diff unlike the early cruisers and 75 series which run a 4.11. For what reason i dont know. But i know this is a fact as i just checked it on the 2 stock 80 series cruisers i have here and also on the rear centre i have in the shed.
that as far as the many 80's and 75 diffs i have seen is correct. And if you cross match them you will need a new transfer and gearbox within time.
THE GRASS MAY BE GREENER ON THE OTHER SIDE BUT YOU STILL GOTTA MOW IT.
giantracing wrote:i have done 3 now... just remember ratios are close but not the same...
cruiser- 4.11
patrol - 4.1
in a 80 if it has a constant transfer it does wind it up if driving to long on hard surface......
An 80 series runs a 4.10 ratio diff unlike the early cruisers and 75 series which run a 4.11. For what reason i dont know. But i know this is a fact as i just checked it on the 2 stock 80 series cruisers i have here and also on the rear centre i have in the shed.
ok.... i just did lockers front and rear in a factory turbo 1hdt 80 series wagon it had 4.3.
about 6 weeks ago did a broken front diff in a 80. factory auto it had 3.9.(this maybe wrong i check broken diff tomorrow , maybe 4.5)
dont know why then ........... easy, cruisers suck dog balls....
(tony this is a talking topic i dont want what happened last time to happen again) thanks.................
giantracing wrote:i have done 3 now... just remember ratios are close but not the same...
cruiser- 4.11
patrol - 4.1
in a 80 if it has a constant transfer it does wind it up if driving to long on hard surface......
Difference in ratios is 1.00271 or roughly 0.27%. Not enough to worry about.
As an example take a 40" tyre and multiply it by the 0.27% and you get an effective height difference of 0.10". It would be safe to say that that would be within the realms of weight distribution variations as far as menaingful effective differences are concerned.
80 series with the center diff (constant 4WD) would not suffer any wind up due to the actions of the center diff equalising the speeds. Even locked the effects would be negligible (example above).
this is what i was thinking....
isn't a differential designed for the fact that the inside and outside wheel has different speeds... and thats why constant 4wd's like rovers have a 3rd diff in the middle, for front and rear differences...so i would have thought that the small amount of difference between 4.1 and 4.11 be taken care of quite easily on road.... but lock that center diff and things may change.
Offroad i cant see the slight diffrence in ratios being a problem but as Giantracing has said. On road it does cause a bit of wind up.
Because of the astronomical prices asked for a cromo GQ/GU axel CV combo. A friend of mine and i have decided to cut the tubes and swivels of a GQ diff and fit 80 series knuckles axels and CVs as its a damn site cheaper to fit longs and there reliabilty warrenty and price are far superior.
Then we will have one hell of a strong combo. (bar the pinion in the GQ centre )
Cheers nottie
nottie wrote:Offroad i cant see the slight diffrence in ratios being a problem but as Giantracing has said. On road it does cause a bit of wind up.
Because of the astronomical prices asked for a cromo GQ/GU axel CV combo. A friend of mine and i have decided to cut the tubes and swivels of a GQ diff and fit 80 series knuckles axels and CVs as its a damn site cheaper to fit longs and there reliabilty warrenty and price are far superior.
Then we will have one hell of a strong combo. (bar the pinion in the GQ centre )
Cheers nottie
Kepp us updated with pics. Would love to do the same for my lux.
AMADAXTREME Racing
Sponsors-
AmadaXtreme
Superior Engineering
www.superiorengineering.com.au/
nottie wrote:Offroad i cant see the slight diffrence in ratios being a problem but as Giantracing has said. On road it does cause a bit of wind up.
Because of the astronomical prices asked for a cromo GQ/GU axel CV combo. A friend of mine and i have decided to cut the tubes and swivels of a GQ diff and fit 80 series knuckles axels and CVs as its a damn site cheaper to fit longs and there reliabilty warrenty and price are far superior.
Then we will have one hell of a strong combo. (bar the pinion in the GQ centre )
Cheers nottie
Kepp us updated with pics. Would love to do the same for my lux.
x2
I'm about to do GQ into LC60, but may be looking for a wider alternative shortly. It'll be interesting to see if the LC ends are a snug fit into a Nissan axle.
1MadEngineer wrote:so let me get this right.
wants:
diff ratio to match front
diff strength to match rear
stronger cv's and axles
similar width (wider = nice)
so general concensus is to graft 80 series knuckles onto H233 center.
I am still lost at the reasoning once you factor in the costs and the parts and the overall strength gained at the end.
Our reason for this Greg is we have the GQ diffs with new lockers allready.
It will be cheaper to graft 80 series ends on to the centres with longs then buy the GQ/GU cromo gear.
I looked at the same problem in my HDJ79, after the first c&p the toyota centre went to scrap. I looked at fitting a whole GU housing but the centre in a 79 is more centred and the GU housing would have hit the chassis on bump. Never mind the 6 stud and 5 stud rears. With some advice from 80UTE, I welded the diff to a solid bench and cut out the old pumpkin, machined up some centreing guides and welded in the GU pumpkin. I also added internal bracing from the knuckles to the pumpkin and widened it 85mm each side. I fitted the larger GU locker, 4.11 gears (rear 4.10) and Dobbin Engineering axles and Longfields.
Why?
1. Hopefully I won't break it.
2. Still running standard toyota outers (brakes, 5 stud hubs ect)
3. Widened my track by 180mm (just over GU) to allow rear diff swap.
4. Running 100 series rear diff/5 link on 38mm spacers.
5. With guard chop I can fit 37"s, standard height bumpstops and full steering lock (knocked over 2mts off turning circle.)
6. Needed an excuse to spend the going overseas fund!
I have only done 1 comp but it is a massive improvment over standard.
I thnk it may have been 80ute who did the Nissan centre into hungy diff for Johnz off this board. Nissan housing centre section with hungy tubes and ends that is. The same as ADM01 has done.
wally or "80ute" built one for my 80, its a 60 ser rear housing with a gq centre, 80 balls welded on the ends, running 80 longfield axels and cv's, had it for about 4 years now, given it a real hard time, never had a drama never broke where many gq/gu's have, in my ex use longs if you can http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm10 ... I_9377.flv
ads80 wrote:wally or "80ute" built one for my 80, its a 60 ser rear housing with a gq centre, 80 balls welded on the ends, running 80 longfield axels and cv's, had it for about 4 years now, given it a real hard time, never had a drama never broke where many gq/gu's have, in my ex use longs if you can http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm10 ... I_9377.flv
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