I'd soon like to run 35's on my 95dually lux but am not sure if i wil need to chop the guards as i dont want to run huge suspension to clear the guards.
The rear is getting a custom tray in the near future so its not my concern.
As for the front i am currently running 33's with around 2inch lift and its rare that they ever scrub. i dont want to lift my car more than another 2inch's...
WILL 2 MORE INCHES BE ENOUGH SO THE 35'S DONT SCRUB?
...or should i chop away at my guards??
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Hilux on 35's CHOP GUARDS?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Hilux on 35's CHOP GUARDS?
95 lux, Under Construction..
60% of the time it works ALL the time
60% of the time it works ALL the time
yeah i would chop the gaurds. keeps it low. my last rig i went all out with suspension and high steer to run 37s truck spent most of its time in the shed in bits no driving just a money pit. my next rig will ifs rears and ruf 2? shackles good shocks and chopped gaurds hoping for 2? lift and 37s. just use longer bump stops and get shocks for mabey an inch up travel and max down travel
Trial and error mate, if your 33's sometimes scrub then the 35's will scrub a fair bit.
This is how I did my SAS'd runner (cut before SAS though), I drew the line where I want the gaurd to end, then another a few cm in from it. I cut to the inner line then made little tabs to the main line. Then folded the tabs in.
This gave a smooth visual finish from the outside and allowed me to still screw flares to the gaurd. Afterwards you couldn't see the tabs and it looked stock still, with no sharp edge.
After (ended up changing to black garden edge flares)
This is how I did my SAS'd runner (cut before SAS though), I drew the line where I want the gaurd to end, then another a few cm in from it. I cut to the inner line then made little tabs to the main line. Then folded the tabs in.
This gave a smooth visual finish from the outside and allowed me to still screw flares to the gaurd. Afterwards you couldn't see the tabs and it looked stock still, with no sharp edge.
After (ended up changing to black garden edge flares)
Lovin the FZJ105-T, bling by Ryano
Yes, I have 2" Flexi flare on it now.HTH wrote:dont think id need to cut out of the top of the guard just a bit of the back bottom corner (leafs in the front wont flex up that high) but looks like yours was a clean cut.. did u put flares on it??
I wouldn't of cut the top but it had the rust
'89 Hilux Single Cab - 3RZ, 35" Kreepy Krawlers, 4.88's, F & R Air lockers, RUF, Longfields, TG Highsteer, Highmount and no money
I just used some wide nose pliers and took my time. Didn't try bend one tab all the way on it's own to prevent creases etc.
The main reason I did it that way was to keep a surface I could attach a flare to properly, and to not have a razor blade edge (cut tin) for a guard where it was cut.
The main reason I did it that way was to keep a surface I could attach a flare to properly, and to not have a razor blade edge (cut tin) for a guard where it was cut.
Lovin the FZJ105-T, bling by Ryano
I used normal pliers... The wider set you use the better...
Mark your two lines about 10mm apart... cut the slits to about 8mm to allow for when you bend the tabs up ... this way you wont be left with any slits or imperfections still showing
Mark your two lines about 10mm apart... cut the slits to about 8mm to allow for when you bend the tabs up ... this way you wont be left with any slits or imperfections still showing
"The object of war is not to die for you country, but to make the other bastard die for his." - General George Patton
Heh so other people have done it that way too. I only thought to do it a few minutes before cutting, for the obvious advantages.308LUX wrote:I used normal pliers... The wider set you use the better...
Mark your two lines about 10mm apart... cut the slits to about 8mm to allow for when you bend the tabs up ... this way you wont be left with any slits or imperfections still showing
Lovin the FZJ105-T, bling by Ryano
DO a RUF conversion... this will easily allow for 35"s and give you some nice articulation or drill the spring perch which is the easiest way...thehanko wrote:my 35's hit the firewall pretty bad, i would think relocate the diff forward a bit to help compensate.
unless you do what RUFF has done before and cut out the firewall and weld in some new sheet
Last edited by 308LUX on Fri Apr 24, 2009 4:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"The object of war is not to die for you country, but to make the other bastard die for his." - General George Patton
rear springs up the front. remove a few leaves, put in adjustable drag link, shorten or adjustable torque rod. so basically you chuck some ifs rears into your rear then reuse your rears up the front of you truck. bit of lift, better flex and shifts your diff forward. need to make sure front drive shaft is long enough for this too.HTH wrote:RUF conversion??? please explain (new to 4x4 world)
the locator pin on the rear springs is in a different spot and it woul shift you diff forward alot. but on your lhs perch it has 3 holes, you use the front one and drill a hole to match on the rhs.
located you diff forward 1-2 inches and clears 35's without the chop chop.
ideally done with a cross over steering conversion, but im goint to try with out it.
im in the process of this at the moment on my car.
Last edited by thehanko on Fri Apr 24, 2009 4:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
RUF means... using your rear springs up front... use the top 3 stock rear springs with the top 3 stock front springs to make a spring pack for your front... this will move your diff forward 1-2 inches because the centre pin on the spring pack is drilled further back... need a 2" dropped hanger and 130mm eye to eye extended shacklesHTH wrote:RUF conversion??? please explain (new to 4x4 world)
"The object of war is not to die for you country, but to make the other bastard die for his." - General George Patton
ruf, plus redrilling perchs, no chop needed, 2inch lift gives plenty of movement with no chop, excessive lift = gheeeey with aids 
no chopping is needed for 35s or even 37s if you do it right. shock hoops is good to do at the same time, mine are on the piss, and are chewing the bushs there 4inch lift hilux shocks and need bigger., but the shocks bottom out without the packs opening or shackle bottoming out, a 45degree angle is the angle your after for best articulation.
4+inchs of compression before coming into contact with front of guard near bullbar.... for the win.......
ps, you dont need a drop hanger, mine runs a stock hanger, new front shaft is needed, as mine is moved foward almost 6inchs with the re drill and rear springs, with the bullbar off the 35s are the foward most part of the truck. i used the 2 mains from the rear pack and 3 from the stock front, its all trial and error until you get ride height, sag, flex etc etc right. x over or hi steer is almost a must to use the extra flex or steering will bind up on the springs and shocks, its all in the bible, although the pitman arm etc comes close to leaf packs with not so much lift, mines about 15mm off hitting the leaf packs at full compression.
no chopping is needed for 35s or even 37s if you do it right. shock hoops is good to do at the same time, mine are on the piss, and are chewing the bushs there 4inch lift hilux shocks and need bigger., but the shocks bottom out without the packs opening or shackle bottoming out, a 45degree angle is the angle your after for best articulation.
4+inchs of compression before coming into contact with front of guard near bullbar.... for the win.......
ps, you dont need a drop hanger, mine runs a stock hanger, new front shaft is needed, as mine is moved foward almost 6inchs with the re drill and rear springs, with the bullbar off the 35s are the foward most part of the truck. i used the 2 mains from the rear pack and 3 from the stock front, its all trial and error until you get ride height, sag, flex etc etc right. x over or hi steer is almost a must to use the extra flex or steering will bind up on the springs and shocks, its all in the bible, although the pitman arm etc comes close to leaf packs with not so much lift, mines about 15mm off hitting the leaf packs at full compression.
BBP Offroad
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
berad wrote:ruf, plus redrilling perchs, no chop needed, 2inch lift gives plenty of movement with no chop, excessive lift = gheeeey with aids
no chopping is needed for 35s or even 37s if you do it right. shock hoops is good to do at the same time, mine are on the piss, and are chewing the bushs there 4inch lift hilux shocks and need bigger., but the shocks bottom out without the packs opening or shackle bottoming out, a 45degree angle is the angle your after for best articulation.
4+inchs of compression before coming into contact with front of guard near bullbar.... for the win.......
ps, you dont need a drop hanger, mine runs a stock hanger, new front shaft is needed, as mine is moved foward almost 6inchs with the re drill and rear springs, with the bullbar off the 35s are the foward most part of the truck. i used the 2 mains from the rear pack and 3 from the stock front, its all trial and error until you get ride height, sag, flex etc etc right. x over or hi steer is almost a must to use the extra flex or steering will bind up on the springs and shocks, its all in the bible, although the pitman arm etc comes close to leaf packs with not so much lift, mines about 15mm off hitting the leaf packs at full compression.
Are you running 35s no body lift mate
how bad is the scrubbage
cheers shane
WOW WITH 800kg OF ROCKS IN THE TRAY MY HILUX DOESNT RIDE LIKE A FUCKING GO CART
I was running 2" Lift and extended shackles, no body lift and only rubs on the drivers side when the wheels are turned.TUF-35T wrote: Are you running 35s no body lift mate
how bad is the scrubbage
cheers shane
Hopefully the RUF fixes it
'89 Hilux Single Cab - 3RZ, 35" Kreepy Krawlers, 4.88's, F & R Air lockers, RUF, Longfields, TG Highsteer, Highmount and no money
no body lift, yes i run 35s off road, no scrubbage, those pics are of it running the 35s, 35s are no good for stock diff ratios though, rears up front etc need a few mods to make it work to its potential.... xover/histeer, shockhoops & longer shocks, diff gears/krawler gears, bumpstops, exteneded front shaft with a longer slipjoint as it falls out with the extra articulation.
a 45degree shackle angle is what is best, no point in having a vertical shackle as its bottomed out in droop already. defeating the purpose other than giving it an inch or two of lift.
could put 37s on and wouldnt scrub would just need to xtend bumpstops. the only lift i have is from shackles more or less, front packs are almost flat at right height, rears are the same. front works like a dream and rears run ifs and leave soemthing to be desired compared to front but are an improvement on std best bang for buck without mucking around with things but are about to make way for something better.
a 45degree shackle angle is what is best, no point in having a vertical shackle as its bottomed out in droop already. defeating the purpose other than giving it an inch or two of lift.
could put 37s on and wouldnt scrub would just need to xtend bumpstops. the only lift i have is from shackles more or less, front packs are almost flat at right height, rears are the same. front works like a dream and rears run ifs and leave soemthing to be desired compared to front but are an improvement on std best bang for buck without mucking around with things but are about to make way for something better.
BBP Offroad
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
when you say your leaves are flat at right height have u pulled one or more bars out of your leafs so youve got maximum flex down minimum flex up??
I have a shitload of things to consider when doing 60series diffs conversion haha. The more i read the longer my car is going to be off the road haha.
What type of steering is cheaper/more effective... Xover or HIsteer?
I have a shitload of things to consider when doing 60series diffs conversion haha. The more i read the longer my car is going to be off the road haha.
What type of steering is cheaper/more effective... Xover or HIsteer?
95 lux, Under Construction..
60% of the time it works ALL the time
60% of the time it works ALL the time
Hi steer is the best because all the rods are above the diff, buts its more expensive.
the springs will invert over the diff for compression.
yer ive taken out load bearers and mixed and matched to get the height i want.
the springs will invert over the diff for compression.
yer ive taken out load bearers and mixed and matched to get the height i want.
BBP Offroad
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests