Traction bar build ups

Post by **AcTioN13** » Fri May 30, 2008 12:23 pm

that sounds about right to me, as the tail shaft is what is lining it up?

Post by **Guy** » Fri May 30, 2008 2:07 pm

No real need to use heim\rose joints. The system can roll unimpeded using the slip and twist joint, and the soild jounts will simply sereve to transmit alot of viberation into the chassis.

Post by **hurricane** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 12:53 pm

yes but im not going to use the slip and twist way, i was goin to use the shackel method, it seems that it would last longer to me.

and i was thinking of useing rose joints on the bad to as when the diff is flexed, with one wheel up and other down the diff on an angle, as if it was crab walking in a way.

so if the rear mounts were boushes it might limit flex in a way?

hope that makes sence.

cheers,dan

Post by **jimbo jones** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:54 pm

-Richo- wrote:Here are some pics...

Dig

going to build one like this for my zook

jimbo

Post by **Z()LTAN** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:01 pm

if you do jimbo put a shackle on the frame end or youll bind up like hell when flexing...

Post by **ozy1** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:12 pm

Z()LTAN wrote:if you do jimbo put a shackle on the frame end or youll bind up like hell when flexing...

why, slip and twist wrap bars dont require them, i built a slip and twist setup for a sprung over 40 series cruiser with pretty big flex and it has no dramas at all with bind,

can you explain why you need a shackle on this setup when clearly you dont?

Post by **Z()LTAN** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:19 pm

lol i didnt see the slip in the bar there... my bad.

disregard my previous comment jimbo

Post by **alien** » Wed Apr 22, 2009 12:15 am

Here's my setups - oztraks/caltracs style. I've since lopped off the lower hole on the front side. solved all wrapping and tramping woes instantly, and its adjustable and will never bind up!

Post by **Z()LTAN** » Wed Apr 22, 2009 12:47 am

yeah its a good setup but it hangs down a god awful amount..

Post by **alien** » Wed Apr 22, 2009 9:13 am

not at all... its right up next to the rim and doesnt hang down any more than the springs used to when it was SPUA... i've given it a good run too and im yet to hit them on anything.

Post by **redv8lux** » Wed Apr 22, 2009 9:16 pm

I had bad axle wrap problems on a hilux based buggy
I ended up using 2 panhard rods from a commodore with solid rod slipped up the inside of them to make my traction bar
I used a shackle on the front of the bar instead of the slip an twist setup
So far it has worked a treat an has handled a fair bit of punishment
An the cost was virtually nothing

Post by **jimbo jones** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 11:29 am

how much play wht the pipe that slides over in the slip'n twist set out should have?
should it be a snug fit or should the be a few mm for grease?

Post by **Shadow** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 11:36 am

jimbo jones wrote:how much play wht the pipe that slides over in the slip'n twist set out should have?
should it be a snug fit or should the be a few mm for grease?

few mm for grease.

bung a grease nipple in there too.

Post by **jimbo jones** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 3:34 pm

Shadow wrote:
jimbo jones wrote:how much play wht the pipe that slides over in the slip'n twist set out should have?
should it be a snug fit or should the be a few mm for grease?
few mm for grease.

bung a grease nipple in there too.

thanks

Post by **zukesloveformud** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 9:37 pm

has anyone ever had any problems with the sleeved section binding up or flaring. For exsample if the rear diff is at full drop and the tires grab tracion while the power is put down heavly, like going up a rock ledge.

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Traction bar build ups

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