i have a 84 4runner when the suspension's flexed the steering knuckle at the end of the drop drag link hits the shock and i cant turn hopefully these photos give an idea?
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steering hitting shock??
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steering hitting shock??
Ok i'm sure this is a common question but what does everyone do about the steering hitting the shock.
i have a 84 4runner when the suspension's flexed the steering knuckle at the end of the drop drag link hits the shock and i cant turn hopefully these photos give an idea?
i have a 84 4runner when the suspension's flexed the steering knuckle at the end of the drop drag link hits the shock and i cant turn hopefully these photos give an idea?
BOBBED 84' 4Runner 2.8L Chugger
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
stupid hiluxs steering is shite!
mine has done this too, but only after i changed to a drop drag link like yours.
worth noting too that your clamp on your drop link is on the same side thats binding. can you take the clampo off and turn it 180 deg then re fit so that the excess thread still pointsup but you dont have excess width on the shock side.
mine has done this too, but only after i changed to a drop drag link like yours.
worth noting too that your clamp on your drop link is on the same side thats binding. can you take the clampo off and turn it 180 deg then re fit so that the excess thread still pointsup but you dont have excess width on the shock side.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
Resident Terrorist
Turn the clamp around to the other side of the drag link and adjust steering stop to suit.4RUNNER_01 wrote:so its just 1 of those things that cant be helped i guess drop drag links seem to cause more trouble than they're worthwell if any1 comes up with a solution let me know please shocks arent that cheap.
HAHAHA its from to much articulation for the shithouse stock steering, the cure is x over or hi steer....
Nothing is bent it is normal if you have a fair bit of flex.
Nice guess's from the others though
If a steering stop is snapped which would be hard to do, the cv will stop it turning well before it does that
Nothing is bent it is normal if you have a fair bit of flex.
Nice guess's from the others though
If a steering stop is snapped which would be hard to do, the cv will stop it turning well before it does that
BBP Offroad
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
yea the photos a bit deceiving that clamp doesn't hit anything i've seen where it sit on full flex but i have been reading up on x over and hi steer but its so bloody expensive i have a power steering box out of an ifs 4runner what else would i need and is that steering box good or do i need a newer model 1? do u know of anywhere to get cheap brackets for hi-steer?
BOBBED 84' 4Runner 2.8L Chugger
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
X2 spot on...berad wrote:HAHAHA its from to much articulation for the shithouse stock steering, the cure is x over or hi steer....
Nothing is bent it is normal if you have a fair bit of flex.
Nice guess's from the others though
If a steering stop is snapped which would be hard to do, the cv will stop it turning well before it does that
Cross over high steer will fix this as said i tried moving my shock mount as far out as possible and it still hit so i went high steer.
What happens is as the drivers side wheel drops and the shock extends the diff pivots in and hits the 'J' arm...
My shock is like that too, i never changed it as that dent never affected the shock... prob should but
(helps if you have a job 
) Brad
3.0L turbo diesel, 4" lift, bud's front housing, track assasin cv's, air lokker front + Rear, beadlock'd 37 stickies, high steer, 15.5" travel ranchos, high pinion diff and coils on the rear
Well the only other problem might be im not running a torque rod on my front diff it has ruined my spring a bit so far but does it limit travel if u have 1. my 4x4 didnt come with it so its been removed for some reason assumably?
BOBBED 84' 4Runner 2.8L Chugger
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
35's, Locker's, High steer, RUF, 4 link rear, Crawler Gears.
the standard steering needs the torque rod. if you change the steering set up its feasible to remove it, but the push pull std set up needs the torque rod.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
the torque rod will not ruin the spring set, if any thing it will help the springs... its the axle wrap of the springs that (with out the torque rod) will eventually stuff them.4RUNNER_01 wrote:Well the only other problem might be im not running a torque rod on my front diff it has ruined my spring a bit so far but does it limit travel if u have 1. my 4x4 didnt come with it so its been removed for some reason assumably?
It will limit the travel a little bit but not enought to worry about, i more had the problem of the torque rod tearing out the mounts from the chassy...
The way the push/ pull (standard) works it does need the torque rod.
The other way around it is to make a custom torque rod, it helps if you have a dropped front hanger then the mounts can be made off there. If its sitting fairly flat and not like - / - it will work good and not limit the flex.
Brad
3.0L turbo diesel, 4" lift, bud's front housing, track assasin cv's, air lokker front + Rear, beadlock'd 37 stickies, high steer, 15.5" travel ranchos, high pinion diff and coils on the rear
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