engine and gearbox lift

[steel]

2000 GU patrol ute with a 50mm bodylift.
thinking it would be good to lift the motor and boxes up 40 to 50mm
anyone done this?
it looks like the easiest way would be to make new mounts for the engine where they bolt to the block, and for the gearbox maybe a custom crossmember?

[mhgill]

Why do you think that raising the motor and box would be a good idea?

It will raise your centre of gravity, and apart from making your radiator and gearstick line up properly, I can't think of any other reasons why you would bother?

enlighten me?

[-Scott-]

Why do you think that raising the motor and box would be a good idea?

It will raise your centre of gravity, and apart from making your radiator and gearstick line up properly, I can't think of any other reasons why you would bother?

enlighten me?

x2 - I can't see the point. Diffs will still be the lowest point, you're not lifting the chassis, you'll increase driveline angles.

Increased COG, increased vibrations, for no discernible improvement.

What are we missing?

[steel]

Mainly to make room for diff mods ( 3rd link ), but also sorts out clearance issues with patrols,eg low hanging transfer case and sump, front driveshaft - crossmember clearance.

As far as C,O,G is concerned, i only have 3 inch of suspension lift so lifting the driveline 2inch will still have lower cog than a 5inch susp lifted patrol.

[beinthemud]

cut ahole in the fire wall and run it through the cabin
gives heaps of ground clearence

[nastytroll]

Mainly to make room for diff mods ( 3rd link ), but also sorts out clearance issues with patrols,eg low hanging transfer case and sump, front driveshaft - crossmember clearance.

As far as C,O,G is concerned, i only have 3 inch of suspension lift so lifting the driveline 2inch will still have lower cog than a 5inch susp lifted patrol.

Done it on 5 patrols so far, 2 have done 6 years of driving.

I made new engine mounts that can not break, flat skid plate under chassis, lines up drive train under cab, gets clearance on front and rear drive shafts, gets transfer inside chassis rails, raises exhaust.

COG blah blah blah, 1 has 2+2, 1 has 4+2, 2 have 5+2 and 1 had 7+2 but have since lowwered to 2+2 for work perposes.

This conversion requires very little modification.

[steel]

Why do you think that raising the motor and box would be a good idea?

It will raise your centre of gravity, and apart from making your radiator and gearstick line up properly, I can't think of any other reasons why you would bother?

enlighten me?

x2 - I can't see the point. Diffs will still be the lowest point, you're not lifting the chassis, you'll increase driveline angles.

Increased COG, increased vibrations, for no discernible improvement.

What are we missing?

Well im running minimal lift to keep cog low but because of this my sump is still sitting down level with the underside of the axle tube and the track rod, my sump gets a caning.
I know im not lifting the chassis, but thats allright, im happy sliding the chassis over rock, but the transfer case is almost level with the underside of the chassis rails and mine has some big gouges out of it.

driveline angles and vibrations aren't a problem for me

I could just build bashplates, but it's awkward for the sump and they just add alot of weight and decrease clearance when built tuff enough to be effective. getting the sump and trasfer 50mm up into the chassis means i won't have to worry about them.

My exhaust has copped a few hits where the first bend below the dumppipe turns toward the rear, clearance here would be nice too

[steel]

Mainly to make room for diff mods ( 3rd link ), but also sorts out clearance issues with patrols,eg low hanging transfer case and sump, front driveshaft - crossmember clearance.

As far as C,O,G is concerned, i only have 3 inch of suspension lift so lifting the driveline 2inch will still have lower cog than a 5inch susp lifted patrol.

Done it on 5 patrols so far, 2 have done 6 years of driving.

I made new engine mounts that can not break, flat skid plate under chassis, lines up drive train under cab, gets clearance on front and rear drive shafts, gets transfer inside chassis rails, raises exhaust.

COG blah blah blah, 1 has 2+2, 1 has 4+2, 2 have 5+2 and 1 had 7+2 but have since lowwered to 2+2 for work perposes.

This conversion requires very little modification.

My thoughts exactly

Some pics would be great mate.

[300WinMag]

You could also cut sump and fabricate wide wings to achieve same oil capacity with more clearanc.
Put a bash/ slide plate under your T case and bigger tyres.
This would save you having to get it engineered if you alter anything on your chassy.

[steel]

Thanks for the advice guys, ive got this mod sorted now.